/ Lundy Out of Season
Assuming that it'll be nithering even if it's not raining, I'd be grateful for any suggestions on routes up to VS which aren't bird banned.
Based on http://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=245 I've thought of spending a day on the slide and then maybe the easy stuff at Pilots Quay and Atlantic Buttress: any other suggestions?
Don't believe the Devil's Slide area is bird banned (but it's been some time since I went so maybe the birds have moved :-)
From your RAD link:
Doesn't look like you have to worry about bird bans.
I'd go for Devils Slide (HS) and the VS next to it, up the corner of the slab.
You're right as well, we're ahead of them... Didn't think about that!
Pilot's Quay is a bit underwhelming. Can't remember where Atlantic Buttress is and don't have a guide to hand.
If you had a couple of days of good weather, I'd spend one at the Slide (not sure if Albion might seep in the winter, but the HS should be fine) and the other either at Flying Buttress (Double Diamond, although not if it's at all wet, Horseman's Route, and the routes on the island side) or Landing Craft Bay (for Shamrock and Road Runner, whose 1st pitch is perhaps the best VS pitch on the island, and then you can abseil off).
Good luck with the weather though (you might need it!).
I'd second the weather comment, we had February weather when we were there in August! I bet its beautiful in the snow though.
That's what I'm now thinking! No bird ban changes things, I simply hadn't thought that we'd be there ahead of them.
Might even try for Integrity if we get sunshine and light winds too...
Best thing about Pilots and Atlantic are proximity to the village. Routes and small but the rock is good - nice intro and no abseiling which is a bit of a novelty.
Think we'll do a day on the slide (slide and albion) and then, if we get a second day, head for Flying Buttress or even Seal Slab and get the lass her first sea cliff lead.
Pilot's Quay is quite difficult to find and access in my experience, though that may have been my incompetence, of course.
That crag above the sea that all the low-grade leaders go to might be useful if the weather's the way one fears it might be. Unfortunately I can't remember its name. It has a load of Severes on with names like Stuka and Hurricane*.
*disclaimer: names may be nothing like that.
Is it called Beaufort Buttress, maybe? Quite a good name actually - half bomber after the nearby Bomber Buttress, half wind-scale.
Pilot's it a right bugger to find, I found Atlantic buttress aiming for it the first time! Nice enough spot for a first afternoon/evening though (and there's DWS for the summer).
Beaufort Buttress is indeed where Stuka et al are - found them tough last time I did them!
Knights Templar might be worth a visit if the westerlies are strong but dry...
Quite excited to be honest!
Now to try and get our bags down to 10kg each!
> Hi John,
Yes, so did I, so much so in fact that I failed. I did get dive-bombed by a greater black-backed gull and thoroughly startled by a guillemot flyng out of a crack past my ear, though, which suggested to me that perhaps the crag ought to be more bird-banned than it is.
I see anyway that the guidebook says it needs low-to-mid tide and that it's dangerous in high seas, so it wasn't much use for the purpose I had in mind anyway.
On a quick visit I would want a route with less of a headache to its access and egress than Eclipse, quality climbing though it is.
Or exit, even.
I went in Feb last year and it was too early for the bird ban (nesting). The warden there was into climbing so would be worth asking him (if he is still there) to show you around maybe? They have books etc there and he was very helpful and willing to help out when I asked about a few things.
I'd take issue with you on three counts:
1) requiring as it does 2 abseils to reach and an extra rope to safeguard the horrendous cornice on the way off the promontory, it's hardly easy access.
2) It's way too easy to be VS (unlike The Black Hand, which was a lot more sporting!)
3) It's definitely not better than Roadrunner or Albion, although the situation is nice.
We found Pilot's Quay first time no problem using the direction in the new book. There's basically a path all the way there.
Knights Templar is impressively bobbins given how good the climbing on the rest of the island is. I'd rather stay in the pub playing darts and eating lamb burgers.
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