/ Trango Big Bro Wide Crack Pro

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silo - on 12 Feb 2013
Hi has any used Trango Big Bro Wide Crack Pro.I was climbing in the jebble kest and think these would come in handy.I plan to go back next year and climb some wide cracks!They seem to be a lot cheaper but do they work?
zerog on 12 Feb 2013
In reply to silo: I've got (and used) one, although never fallen on it. In my experience, they are a bit more finicky to place than a large cam; you've got to find flattish sections where the rock meets the tube. But the occasional time I've gotten them right, they do seem bomber. And as a bonus, you can stand on it when your off width technique sucks as much as mine! You can't walk them up like you would a cam.

I hadn't realised you could get them over here in the UK?
silo - on 12 Feb 2013
In reply to zerog: Ive not seen them in the uk.
Luke90 on 12 Feb 2013
In reply to silo:
If I recall correctly, they're not CE rated, which means they CAN'T be sold in the UK.
silo - on 12 Feb 2013
In reply to Luke90:I live in Gibraltar,not a problem for me!
rocky57 - on 12 Feb 2013
In reply to Luke90:

Silo is not in the UK, perhaps he can get them in nearby spain.

Silo - Out of interest, let us all know where you end up getting them from.
silo - on 12 Feb 2013
In reply to rocky57:I'll let you know
Epic Ebdon - on 12 Feb 2013
In reply to silo:

I saw the pink/purple one of these for the first time in a shop here at the weekend (Bavaria). It looked interesting, I had a play with it and a chat with the shop assistant about it. I suspect they are less flexible than a cam of similar size - they look like they need a crack with the sides at just the right angle to each other, but I imagine in the right place they're great - in the end it is just a fat tube, so there's not a great deal to go wrong. I'm not sure I'd want to bounce around on one of them too much though, I could imagine if it didn't wedge itself in on the first loading, it might be able to twist and free itself... but that is more a gut feeling than any kind of experiment/experience. They are much lighter (and cheaper!) than a cam of the similar size - they're like a big hex for size and weight.

Tim
jimtitt - on 12 Feb 2013
In reply to Luke90:
> (In reply to silo)
> If I recall correctly, they're not CE rated, which means they CAN'T be sold in the UK.

Unless things have changed they aren´t CE marked and therefore it is illegal to sell them in all of the EU, including Spain and Gibralter. I doubt anyone cares though!
Tony & Sarah - on 12 Feb 2013
In reply to silo: Unfortunately Trango BigBro do not have a CE certificate and therefore technically unavailable in the EU (this hasn't stopped some shops from stocking them as a grey import)
Tony Whitehouse
Beta Climbing Designs Ltd
ice.solo - on 13 Feb 2013
In reply to silo:

ive tried them (2 sizes) and would go with them if i did enough of that sort of climbing. like said above - they seem better than a cam when ideally placed. also easier to carry when you get into those sizes.

the spring powered thunk! action requires practice, as does the whole one-handed placement of them i think.

can get them in japan if anyones desperate. saw a set on monday. not cheap.
AlanLittle - on 13 Feb 2013
In reply to Epic Ebdon:
> (In reply to silo)
>
> I saw the pink/purple one of these for the first time in a shop here at the weekend (Bavaria).
>

Where? I'm not in the market for offwidth fetish gear, but I would expect a shop that stocks this sort of thing to be interesting in other respects too.

Marq - on 13 Feb 2013
In reply to silo:

I've got a size 1 and 2 that I bought whilst on holiday in the US a few years back. Used for several years in the UK to protect wide cracks on some of the more 'traditional' mountain routes where you wouldn't want to carry a huge cam with you.

Not fallen on them though! You may want to brief your second on how to remove them though before you start climbing.

Marq
Epic Ebdon - on 13 Feb 2013
In reply to AlanLittle:

At travel and trek in Fürth, bei Nürnberg. It was a bit strange, they only had the one, but they also had some ball nuts and tri-cams. Slightly unusual for round here, it's mostly jjust sport climbing stuff, and endless Jack Wolfskin. The guy in the shop was pleasant and knowledgeable. I certainly took a mental note of the shop.

If you're based in the general vicinity, do shout if you fancy going climbing when the weather is a bit more favourable - I' always looking for new climbing partners, particularly since my last one just moved to Canada! I'm based just south of Nürnberg, so Frankenjura/Altmühltal are pretty easy for me to get to.

Tim

Oh, and please don't tell anyone in Fürth that I suggested that they're in Bavaria. Obviously I meant *Franconia* ;-)
robal - on 13 Feb 2013
In reply to silo: i've used them, fallen on them and its all been ok! i've used them a few times on grit and they are surprisingly reassuring, if you're in Sheffield I don't mind loaning them to you just pm me! :)
silo - on 13 Feb 2013
In reply to robal: Thanks,Im back in the summer I may take you up on your offer.
Offwidth - on 13 Feb 2013
In reply to silo:

I've used mine in the US and on grit. It fits wide offwidths or squeeze chimneys above the size of my biggest cam (top size Camelot). I've never fallen properly on it but it's given me confidence to go for stuff I never would have tried unprotected. They are awkward to place but you usually have an knee-bar or something in to have the time to adjust. Used it in the US and in the UK (on grit). US shops will sell and some will post to the UK. Mine was from Nomad Ventures in JT, a brilliant shop (cheap cam repairs as well!).

http://www.nomadventures.com/

They are not CE rated so that may worry some folk but I'm less fussed as I know they work. My aliens are not CE rated either and Ive fallen on them a few times.
silo - on 13 Feb 2013
In reply to Offwidth: thanks
rurp - on 13 Feb 2013
In reply to silo: got two on ebay for £10. not placed them yet but they look well made and solid. feel more reassuring than a cam and much lighter than equivalent size cams. probably wouldn't buy at full price but then i wouldn't buy a size 6 friend!
AlanLittle - on 13 Feb 2013
In reply to Epic Ebdon:
>
> If you're based in the general vicinity, do shout if you fancy going climbing when the weather is a bit more favourable

Thanks. I'm based in München and don't make it up to the 'jura as regularly as I would like to, largely due to Alps-obsessed partners. But I'll give you a shout when I do.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Epic Ebdon - on 14 Feb 2013
In reply to AlanLittle:

Thanks - that would be good. Being just south of Nürnberg myself, the Altmühltal might be a good half-way compromise. But only when it's stopped snowing!

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