/ Horseshoe quarry
Looking to take out 2 people who have not done much outdoors
The low graded stuff on the left side is largely a pile of rubbish. Literally in some cases.
The main wall is pretty solid and has a few decent routes that are a good length. You'd be better on there, even if it means top roping if the grades are a bit above what you're looking for. You can walk around and set up a top rope no probs.
There's quite a good long, low edge of very good rock a short distance away ;-)
I wouldn't take beginners to Horseshoe unless they can second sport 6b, there are much better venues for lower-grade climbers. The solid stuff at Horseshoe is fairly steep and polished and sustained. If you want Limestone, Harborough Rocks is better for those new to the outdoors, and then there's loads of grit.
I'd agree with Coel. There's short stuff up top which is easier but it's not very interesting.
Wondering if there are any other better places in the peak for sport climbing. Looking specifically to lead sport climb, rather than top rope.
And sorry, hope I haven't hijacked your thread!
> I'd agree with Coel. There's short stuff up top which is easier but it's not very interesting.
You mean the West side? That's exactly where I was going to recommend!
Depends what you want from the day really but up there you can get a lot done in a shorter period of time, you can set up top ropes by walking up, do loads of different techniques and skills, then go down later on to put them into practice.
Bearing in mind that people tend to (a) drop a few grades and (b) be ponderously slow first time out, anything that reduces the faff is good.
Problem is that most Peak sport below 6b is worse than going to a wall
Whilst it's fashionable to knock Horseshoe, I don't think it's as bad as people make out. Bolts are generably in good condition - many have been replaced either by the BMC or Gary Gibson.
Rock stability varies, the right hand side of the slabs is fine, but more care is needed on the left and particularly the newly excavated routes in the centre. Plus, identifying and climbing friable rock is an important skill to develop. Just make sure you wear a helmet, especially for belaying
Mind you, with the weather the way it is in Sheffield at the moment, I'd be making plans to visit one of the walls !
> Problem is that most Peak sport below 6b is worse than going to a wall
I'd go further.
Problem is that most Peak sport below 6b is worse than going down a well.
Really appreciate all this help guys! :) Thanks very much!
> There's quite a good long, low edge of very good rock a short distance away ;-)
have you recently been to harpur hill? Is this a better option for my party? :)
Not at this time of year, probably not at any time of the year for that matter !
> have you recently been to harpur hill? Is this a better option for my party? :)
not in the winter. fairly high, mostly north facing and exposed to all the weather going. it can be pretty grim up there.
if you're taking newbies out then sport in the peak doesn't really work. you'd be much better off going to harborough for limestone or windgather for grit. both have loads of easy routes which you could lead and they could second in turn. and none of the routes are long so won't take ages to climb. that way you all get to do more climbing in a nicer place and you don't get the toproping police shouting at you from behind their keyboards.
If you want to put them off, take them to Harpur Hill otherwise take them somewhere like Aldery Cliff if you want limestone or otherwise climb on grit.
Elsewhere on the site
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more
This survey is being conducted by the Outdoor Industries Association in order to find out more about how and why people... Read more
The Grivel A&D Ascender & Descender is brand new for Autumn 2014 and incorporates a revolutionary and innovative patented... Read more
From a personal point of view, photographing the night sky is one of the most difficult, frustrating yet ultimately rewarding... Read more
Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Initially made from... Read more