/ Top 10 Scotish rock climbs for mortals?

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Kevster - on 17 Feb 2013
Hi,
As per the title, with an alterior motive of a short visit to Scotland coming up. Lets call up to E3 reasonable.

Recommendations please:

Cheers, kev.
Eric9Points - on 17 Feb 2013
In reply to Kevster:

Bludger's revelation
Cir Mhor Direct
Cougar
Diabeg Pillar
Anything in No2 Geo, Sheigra
Pause
Jack the Ripper (Stac Pollaidh)
Various stuff on the main wall, Creag Dubh

Jon Stewart - on 17 Feb 2013
In reply to Kevster:

Doesn't really matter which routes, but Diabaig and Sheigra are easily two of the best crags I've ever been to.

Reiff is fantastic for avoiding bad weather. The routes themselves, while excellent, might not be the most memorable routes you'll ever do (just because they're short) but the setting is unbelievable and rock wonderful. I could spend every day of a holiday on Reiff and not feel bitter that it was raining in the mountains.
Dave Ferguson - on 17 Feb 2013
In reply to Kevster:
Most of them will be on Mingulay and Pabbay
Kevster - on 17 Feb 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Just looking through the contenders so far, Diabaig seems to have more stars than routes!
The map of crags in Scotland is just overwhelming! Couldn't visit them all in one lifetime...
Kevster - on 17 Feb 2013
In reply to Dave Ferguson:
That'll be a whole other holiday for me. Next year maybe.

I'm sure those who have been and wish to put forward will offer some balance?
sjminfife - on 17 Feb 2013
In reply to Kevster:
Another vote for Reiff,great climbing in a beautiful environment.
Diabeg....I loved "Route 2",the other routes get great wirteups I wish I could speak from experience.
Agag's Groove and January Jigsaw...Rannoch Wall, Stunning exposure.
Punsters Crack, The Cobbler
Red Wall,Proud Corner....Glen Clova, One of my favourite corners of Scotland
The Weight, Fulmar Wall, Aberdeen sea cliffs. Looks improbable at HS.
Pobble, Aberdeen sea cliffs. Short on lovely granite.
The Souter, East coast sea cliffs( A sea stack)
Ardverikie Wall,no further comment needed!
Unicorn, Stob Coire nan Lochain.
Hammer, Glen Etive
Pain Pillar,Aberdour

There is so much great climbing all over,short and long,mountains and crags.If you have booked a specific time then head for the sun,there will be some somewhere.
Alex the Alex - on 17 Feb 2013
In reply to Kevster:

Grey Panther on the Kilt! 40m of outrageouse bridging on some pretty unique rock arhitecture. And soft for an E1!

I'd second some of the stuff at Etive Slabs, The 3rd pitch of the Long Reach is one my best memories of last year.
jshields - on 18 Feb 2013
In reply to Kevster: Hi Kev, Not seen you since Lundy (I was climbing with Ian). Another vote for the Long Reach, brilliant slab padding at E15b, better than Swastika? Which ever route you choose Etive slabs should be on your list.
Regards,
Jon
Iain Thow - on 18 Feb 2013
In reply to Kevster: Not qualified to comment above HVS but here's my list for below that:

Centurion
Hammer
Black Mamba
Clean Sweep
Integrity
Ardverikie Wall
Mitre Ridge & Squareface
January Jigsaw
Souwester Slab
A day at Reiff that includes Black Magic & Black Gold

Would probably include either Fionn Buttress or Gob at Carnmore, but
they're still on the hitlist.
As you said, a lifetime of routes.
Have fun,

Iain

Mike Lewis - on 18 Feb 2013
I'm probably forgetting lots of good routes, but these are all amazing:

South Ridge Direct VS
Cyclops HVS
Minus One Direct E1
The Pause E1
The Needle E1
Spring Squill E1
Yo Yo E1
The Bug E2
The Pillar E2
Anger & Lust E2

Big classics I haven't done include: Steeple, Shibboleth, Prophecy of Drowning, Old Man of Hoy...
GrahamD - on 18 Feb 2013
In reply to Kevster:

The most memorable for me would be (in no particular order):

Arrow Route etc. (Skye)
Vulcan Wall (Skye)
Gob (Carnmore) - we didn't get on Dragon which looks even better
Centurion (Ben Nevis)
GrahamD - on 18 Feb 2013
In reply to GrahamD:

Old Man of Hoy
ads.ukclimbing.com
Kevster - on 18 Feb 2013
In reply to GrahamD:

Hoping the Old man of Hoy will be successfully ascended in less than 3 weeks, weather permitting. Looking at some of the other suggestions whilst we are in Scotland. Thankyou all.

Whilst we are talking Hoy, anyone done any other route than the E1? Any good?

Jon, How's it going? Climbing well? Becoming a Lundy regular, 4th year this year. It's kinda got under my skin, though I was thinking Pabbay/Mingulay next year.

There does seem to be a few climbs coming up regular, and certainly some crags for the best of Scottish awards.

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