/ NEWS: 11 8A's and harder by Jan Hojer in one (rest)day

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UKC News - on 19 Feb 2013
Jan Hojer training, 3 kbMost people take it easy on rest days, and whatever you do, I guess it tends to involve some... rest. Now, Jan Hojer's rest days seems to be somewhat different.
I got this story from his friend Lukas Biniossek who currently with Jan and Jule Wurm in Ticino:

As I'm witnessing the human ticking...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67842
CosmicHobo - on 19 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News: At the Hueco Rock Rodea last year(?) Daniel Woods racked up a pretty impressive 78 V points, just worked this out to be in the region of 128!
diddler - on 19 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Pretty sure the hueco comp only takes into account your 6 hardest throughout the day. Can't really compare the two.
In reply to UKC News:

Wow, what a monster, awesome effort!
aln - on 20 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News: That's astonishing! I was a bit baffled by this, "[~8A/+] ... using 8C climber's beta,". What does that mean?
Björn Pohl - UKC - on 20 Feb 2013
In reply to aln: I'm pretty sure it means he didn't use the easiest possible beta.
aln - on 20 Feb 2013
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: Still don't get it. Are you saying he climbed an 8a problem but the way he did it, he actually climbed an 8c problem?
Ian Patterson on 20 Feb 2013
In reply to aln:
> (In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC) Still don't get it. Are you saying he climbed an 8a problem but the way he did it, he actually climbed an 8c problem?

No, I would just assume he climbed it in a way that might seem really hard to someone less strong. A friend's son is a very strong climber and when he tries a problem indoors we're struggling on it's often a case of him crushing it with a couple of powerful lock offs and pulls - beta that is no use at all to someone weak like me who requires every possible trick of footwork and body position to get up anything even vaguely hard.

deacondeacon - on 20 Feb 2013
In reply to aln: My interpretation of it, is that rather than using a sequence that would be used by someone at the limit of their grade he used a harder sequence to bypass certain moves, enabling him to climb the problem in less moves. Therefore wasting less energy and friendlier on the skin.
I may be wrong though. :)
deacondeacon - on 20 Feb 2013
In reply to deacondeacon: Like wot Ian said
aln - on 20 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News: I think I get it now. Although it still sounds to me like he's climbing a harder problem, i.e. an 8c eliminate version of an 8a problem. Anyway thanks for the replies and I'll think I'll leave it there before I start sounding pedantic. ;)
phildavies84 - on 20 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News: Can we all chip in and buy him a ticket to the UK. Time to unleash him on some Gaskins problems?
Styx - on 20 Feb 2013
Absolute monster! Go on ze German!
Sircumfrins - on 20 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News: Most of us would do extreme things to get this amount of 8A's done in a year...let alone a day!

Absolute Behemoth!
efrance24234 - on 20 Feb 2013
In reply to UKC News: Its already impressive but dont try and say its a rest day when it clearly isnt. It just looks like there after more attention.
Jemerson - on 20 Feb 2013
Very impressive effort, it would be neat to see Jan try and top this effort http://www.vimeo.com/38347438
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Niels - on 21 Feb 2013
In reply to efrance24234:
> (In reply to UKC News) Its already impressive but dont try and say its a rest day when it clearly isnt. It just looks like there after more attention.

As it says; the day was originally planned as a rest between sending "Dreamtime" and attempting "the Dagger". He goes along with the rest of the group and does the climbs to show them how it's done, after numerous quick ascents decides to actually go for it.

Now while therefore it does not fully count as a rest day, it is in a sense a rest between trying 8B+/8C problems and was planned as a rest day, hence the rest in brackets.

Basically what I'm saying is that it's not a completely unjustified decision saying it's a rest day.

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