/ NEWS: 11 8A's and harder by Jan Hojer in one (rest)day
I got this story from his friend Lukas Biniossek who currently with Jan and Jule Wurm in Ticino:
As I'm witnessing the human ticking...
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67842
Pretty sure the hueco comp only takes into account your 6 hardest throughout the day. Can't really compare the two.
Wow, what a monster, awesome effort!
No, I would just assume he climbed it in a way that might seem really hard to someone less strong. A friend's son is a very strong climber and when he tries a problem indoors we're struggling on it's often a case of him crushing it with a couple of powerful lock offs and pulls - beta that is no use at all to someone weak like me who requires every possible trick of footwork and body position to get up anything even vaguely hard.
I may be wrong though. :)
As it says; the day was originally planned as a rest between sending "Dreamtime" and attempting "the Dagger". He goes along with the rest of the group and does the climbs to show them how it's done, after numerous quick ascents decides to actually go for it.
Now while therefore it does not fully count as a rest day, it is in a sense a rest between trying 8B+/8C problems and was planned as a rest day, hence the rest in brackets.
Basically what I'm saying is that it's not a completely unjustified decision saying it's a rest day.
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