/ Aiguille Verte film
I enjoyed it. I think it was the Whymper Couloir.
Bravo, excellent video... a lunchtime treat!
Many thanks for posting
What a great film!
(Purple and plastics, takes me right back!)
Nice film, can't help feeling sorry for the client though!
It's a pity so much of it was slightly tilted though, it was a bit irritating for some reason.
I didn't do much walking down facing out.
that guide is pretty good , but agree with the client remark , looks terrifying
I thought it was great, though I tend to agree with Bruce about the tilting. Why do people do it? On the other hand the ridge from the top of the couloir to the summit looked a lot less knife edge than I remember - frightened the living daylights out of me!
Looks sharp enough to me :-)
> I thought it was great, though I tend to agree with Bruce about the tilting. Why do people do it? On the other hand the ridge from the top of the couloir to the summit looked a lot less knife edge than I remember - frightened the living daylights out of me!
Could this be down to the very wide angle lens on the GoPro type cameras?
I get the feeling it was made before the advent of those.
If you're referring to my comment about the summit ridge then it's true that a wide angle lens would make it appear sharper than reality - indeed there was a helmet cam clip of the Nadelgrat recently where this was certainly the case. However, in this case I was remarking that it looked a lot LESS sharp in the film than my memory of it. I suspect that it just tends to form differently from year to year. I do remember it being uncomfortably steep on the Whymper side so after a distance I crossed over to the Argentière side expecting it to be much more friendly, but to my dismay, it wasn't!
I'd say that was a very fair comment during most of the film.
Short roping can be very effective at arresting a slip by the lower person (in ascent or descent) but only if the rope is as tight as possible. However, on many routes with long stretches of easy terrain - such as this couloir - many people relax a little and move together, the rope not really serving any purpose - don't forget, the film is tilted and the terrain a lot easier than the cameraman would have you believe. The reason for remaining roped up is that the rope is instantly available should it be needed to climb a more difficult section in a pitch. In that case it's just necessary to uncoil a few of the shoulder coils - as happens at about 3 minutes in. Coiling the rope and packing it away only to need it again a few minutes later is just too time consuming. I'm guessing that the guide in the film knows his client well enough that he is happy to move together like this and maybe tightening it up for the odd slightly harder bit - and of course that the client is happy that they do this. Moving together is more or less essential on this type of terrain - pitching it would simply take far too long.
Myself I prefer to use a longer rope and place some form of runner as we climb. Also means you can get your breath back every now and again as you let your second catch up and hand you all the gear he's collected.
This also has the advantage that you can pass some of the work carrying the gear to the lower climber! Clever ploy.
The full thing is here - http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xui6b7_au-dela-des-cimes_sport#.USkspaW9rNo
Impressive stuff on what I think is "Elixir d'Astoroth" on the Grand Cap....
> The full thing is here - http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xui6b7_au-dela-des-cimes_sport#.USkspaW9rNo
> Impressive stuff on what I think is "Elixir d'Astoroth" on the Grand Cap....
I received the DVD as a present !
While on the technical aspects of climbing - can anyone recommend any videos of how to set up and pack portaledges - not that I'm thinking of doing it of course anything above grade 1 scrambling is beyond my limits!
I've not done it but I think the options are i)down the same way in good snow conditions and early in the day, ii) otherwise down a long ridge if it is not too snowy, iii) otherwise spend the night somewhere not very comfortable and reassess. Option iii) seems rather common.
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