/ creag meagaidh conditions

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connor on 22 Feb 2013
Will and Ihad a great day on creag meagaidh yesterday, climbed the Wand and thought this might give folk an idea of what conditions are like for the weekend

http://barebackclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/
mark turnbull - on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to connor:
Is the cold weather meant to hold till next
Week ,, anybody no it would be a great help
Thanks .. Mark
CurlyStevo - on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to mark turnbull:
Looks good to me as long as it doesn't get above 3 degrees on the summits the north faces will still be bomber in high pressure. Even if they do rise above this an early start could still provide a good day!

http://www.mwis.org.uk/kwobeis/WH.PDF

"High pressure will dominate the weather over Britain for a week. Precipitation will be negligible and winds often very
light, especially across Scotland. A persistent cloud layer, shrouding many higher summits, will increasingly break into
next week, again particularly across Scotland. Temperature levels will rise slowly, albeit with frequent night frost, much
terrain will remain frozen.
Toward the end of next week, patches of snow will begin to develop and temperatures may well drop again."
CurlyStevo - on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:
that said the ben can be a better bet in these conditions.
mark turnbull - on 22 Feb 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:
Thank you for that stevo, up there this Thursday
But going to try and get partner out on Tuesday
andybrown114 - on 23 Feb 2013
In reply to connor: climbed The Wand today in brilliant nick. At least 4 teams on Pumpkins too which also looked fat. Teams on the various posts and Smith's Gully. All in all busy and great conditions.
Stash - on 26 Feb 2013
In reply to connor: Did Pumpkin and Diadem on Saturday both really good.
Diadem a bit sugary in places. Bomber neve on the top snow slopes.
Pumpkin stepped out a bit, but great fun.
Tony the Blade on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to Stash:

Thinking of going to CM tomorrow, any further updates?
Captain Solo on 28 Feb 2013
In reply to Tony the Blade: Was out on CM yesterday, snow softening up a bit on the exits when its been in the sun, post face probably most affected. Ice and snow/ice is still good though.
CMcBain - on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to Captain Solo:

Any update on conditions? Thinking of having a gander on Saturday but temperatures have been fairly warm?

cheers
furbrow on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to connor: I climbed South Pipe Direct yesterday (Thurs 28 Feb). A major thaw was in progress. The ice was all running with water, bits of snow and ice were falling off the crags and the cave belay below the last pitch was like standing under a shower. Around the Window the snow was still ok to walk on but it is getting softer. A refreeze is needed.
Michael Gordon - on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to furbrow:

Thanks for the report. Hopefully a couple of cold nights will make it as good or even better than it was before.
Jamie B - on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

> Thanks for the report. Hopefully a couple of cold nights will make it as good or even better than it was before.

Colder last night, so would expect an improvement. But a bit more snow would also be good, as the routes are all very stepped-out at present (as is anything popular on the Ben). The Pumpkin was a ladder on Tuesday - not grade V by any stretch of the imagination.

Michael Gordon - on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to Jamie B:

A thaw can be great for sorting out stepped out routes! The Pumpkin does seem to suffer from that when it gets popular; probably IV,4 in those conditions IMO.
CMcBain - on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to furbrow:

Cheers for input, is hoping that tonight's cooler temperature make it worthwhile tomorrow a long shot or still a possibility?
Michael Gordon - on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to CMcBain:

Might depend whether it's a clear night or not.
CurlyStevo - on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:
Looks like a gamble this weekend and then a heavy thaw from mid next week. Tomorrow could be quite drizzly especially below 1000 metres.
Jamie B - on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to Michael Gordon:

The Pumpkin does seem to be a bit of a magnet, big crowds on it every day. I guess the lure of a four-star soft-touch Grade V is easy to understand! This is one of the reasons I never agreed with the onset of 4-star routes; it increases honeypotting even more. Wonder what would happen if the next guide had it at IV,4 and two stars?
Michael Gordon - on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to Jamie B:
> (In reply to Michael Gordon)
>
> Wonder what would happen if the next guide had it at IV,4 and two stars?

The funny thing is that's probably what it is like the majority of the time! (though no doubt the steep bit on pitch 1 will feel harder without the steps). I don't think it should get 4* anyway since the tricky bit only lasts for 2 pitches, 3 at a push.
Michael Gordon - on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to Jamie B:

I thought South Post for example was a much better route.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Michael Gordon - on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:
> (In reply to Michael Gordon)
> then a heavy thaw from mid next week.

Damn, I'd better make this weekend count then!
petegunn on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to connor:
Top section of The Wand thawing fast on thurs, main pitch(s) good. Clear skies today driving home : (
JohnnyW - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to connor:
It was as wet as a wet thing today unfortunately. Went in to do Staghorn Gully, but didn't fancy it, as there was much bare rock towards the arete, as well as in the gully. Did Raeburn's Gully, but there was a lot of ice falling from on high. The snow was mushy, and the cornice was a little threatening in the thaw.
Bloody disappointed, given the recent conditions. Some of us have to work... :(
Ah well, still had a good day ;)

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