/ Best Crags Costa Blanca?

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Mike_Bottom - on 25 Feb 2013
I am planning a trip to Costa Blanca in Summer... Can people recommend the best crags to find that they have had great experiences at?

Good variation of grades? beautiful views?

Cheers!

Mike
A Mountain Journey - on 25 Feb 2013
In reply to Mike_Bottom: It's going to be toasty hot in summer! Forada north could be a good bet. If you're prepared to get up early / or head out late to avoid the heat, then consider:
Echo valley - lovely setting, plenty of fine routes both single & multi-pitch, trad & sport;
Penon de Ifach - location is first class, some of the climbing is very polished though;
Olta - catches a breeze so could be nice and cool, some nice routes in a superb setting;
Toix - the sea cliffs are pretty awesome, just don't go when the sun's on them! HOT

HTH

Mark
LaMentalist on 25 Feb 2013
In reply to Mike_Bottom:

Being bit of a punter I liked Gandia , Sella ( Sector Final & Ojo de Odra in particular ) , loved the views from Bernia and the views from Echo Valley are breath taking really good climbing there as well .

There was another huge crag we climbed at not far from Salem but I can't recall the name it was over an hours walk in through ( next to orange groves ) & it was absolutely stunning there was a large roof section at the centre of the crag with hard sport routes to the right & easier routes to the left of this big open cave . I'll have to dig out some photos later now . A certain Mr Sharma & his lady were working some of the hard routes in the cave , there was also a pony tailed german dude climbing hard bear footed , amazing place .
Fraser on 25 Feb 2013
In reply to Mike_Bottom:

I've only had one trip there, but I really rated Gandia and Pena Roja.
DJ7A - on 25 Feb 2013
In reply to Mike_Bottom: +1 for Gandia. Fantastic climbing right across the grade range and the upper tiers are quite exposed so it won't get as hot as many of the other crags in the area.
sarahjk - on 25 Feb 2013
In reply to Mike_Bottom:

Just back from there, great fun. Sella was a little polished, but the newer stuff there was ok, Toix was fab as was Guadalest and Echo.

We were climbing mostly 4s and 5s, searching out the trad, topping a few 6as and generally having a blast. Enjoy.
Sam Mayfield - on 25 Feb 2013
In reply to Mike_Bottom:

Keep your eye on our blog for new routes etc.

We should have North face crags sorted by summer time.

Also you will not see any views that beat these!

http://orangehouseclimbing.blogspot.com

Sam orange
The Ivanator - on 25 Feb 2013
In reply to sarahkeast: Glad to hear you had a good time. Not sure I'd fancy it in summer though, it was 26 degrees and we were seeking shade back in early January.
To the OP: As mentioned earlier Forada looks a good bet for shade, Gandia is good climbing, but will be a furnace, Sella has enough angles to find some shade and if you move further right along the crag and climb at 6a and above there is not much polish and lots of quality.
You'd enjoy it more in any other season though!
Sam Mayfield - on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:

Please don't remind me how hot is was in January!

We have snow on the tops today! ;0)

Sam Orange
the power - on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to Sam Mayfield:
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
>
> Please don't remind me how hot is was in January!
>
> We have snow on the tops today! ;0)
>
> Sam Orange

sunny and warm at stanage today nearly had to breakout the factor 50
mook456 - on 27 Feb 2013
Looking to go to the costa blanca myself for some sports climbing later on this year . Which month would be best weather wise from sept, oct or November ?

Cheers
LaMentalist on 27 Feb 2013
In reply to markymark31:
> Looking to go to the costa blanca myself for some sports climbing later on this year . Which month would be best weather wise from sept, oct or November ?
>
> Cheers

I've been in September , October & November and would say end of September early October myself but wouldn't worry too much I usually go by prices as much as the weather , had one day of showers the last November I went for a week , always loads to do on Costa Blanca .

icnoble on 28 Feb 2013
In reply to Mike_Bottom: I think Montessa fits your criteria.
Sam Mayfield - on 28 Feb 2013
In reply to markymark31:

September can be too hot and you also get the odd very powerful storms! DWS still an option as sea temps are high and climbing in the shade, but it's my favourite month.

Oct can be wet, but can be nice and warm. It's a very popular month.

Nov can be great and if you climb hard then quite good temps. Can also have some rain though.

You really cant get a perfect month, jan this year we had some very hot days and today we have snow and tornados off Benidorm beach! All very odd.

Sam orange


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