/ Multi Pitch in White Peak

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alecjcook - on 25 Feb 2013
Hey, best crag to go too, to grab some multi pitch climbing around matlock?
In reply to alecjcook:

Hey, Willersley, Wildcat and High Tor.

Only two pitches though,


Chris
Jon Stewart - on 25 Feb 2013
In reply to alecjcook:

If you're not experienced on Peak limestone, be aware that it has a certain 'charm'. By this I mean, expect polish and loose rock: have your wits about you!
Skyfall - on 25 Feb 2013
In reply to alecjcook :

Wildcat is the most friendly. Lots around VS tho nothing I can think of below HS. As said, limestone is more serious than you might expect.
Jonny2vests - on 26 Feb 2013
In reply to Skyfall:
> (In reply to alecjcook )
>
> Wildcat is the most friendly. Lots around VS tho nothing I can think of below HS. As said, limestone is more serious than you might expect.

Wildcat has good routes at HS actually.
Offwidth - on 26 Feb 2013
In reply to jonny2vests:

...which wouldn't be below HS ;-) Also, from distant memory the only popular severes there were so polished I think they were harder than Lynx the most popular HS. There was some nice easier stuff on the far right (eg Cracker Jack) but this is only possible if someone has cleaned them recently and the state of the rock on easier routes in my experience needs care.
Jonny2vests - on 26 Feb 2013
In reply to Offwidth:

Oh trust you to spoil it with your 'facts' and 'paying attention'. Factual correctness gone mad.
Offwidth - on 26 Feb 2013
In reply to jonny2vests:

I know. Not just climbing either...in the last three informal performance improvement cases I've helped with, I've been told by HR that it's unreasonable getting involved and acting on the rights in the policy to correct factual errors in the manager's written concerns, as the process is informal at that stage and only meant to be helpful.
Jonny2vests - on 26 Feb 2013
In reply to Offwidth:

You're too good for that place. West Notts College were advertising though...
Offwidth - on 26 Feb 2013
In reply to jonny2vests: The way things are going I might even consider Beeston Tech soon. The Froggatt guide certainly wouldn't have happened under current conditions. It's not even like the new paperwork and policies help anything real at all. The good news is, unlike Mid-Staffs, no 'customer' dies from our newly strengthened, top-down, target-driven culture for 'gold standard' service.
Rog Wilko on 26 Feb 2013
In reply to alecjcook: Hi Alec,
The obvious crag for you, as others have said, is Wild Cat. Willersley is more polished and the routes are more committing and High Tor is for later!

For a start, I would tackle some single pitch routes while you get used to the rock. There are some reasonable easier lines on Slippery Slabs (they're not very). Pink Panther is quite reasonable for the grade as is S.S. Direct. On the main crag Cat Walk & Pupilla (not much harder than Cat Walk and easier to protect) would be good for starters. Lynx has been mentioned, and it's good, but personally I think Lobo (which shares top pitch with Lynx) is no harder and easier to protect at the start. For a biggish two-pitch route I'd recommend Jackdaw Grooves.

If you have transport,it isn't far to Ravensdale. There is a number of steady routes with some good single pitch routes near the cave. Tria is a superb HS and a good first limestone lead for a competent leader. Then there are some great multipitch routes on the main crag (though Medusa is very polished, sadly).

Go steady and, although there's not too much loose rock, test each hold. There are some great routes for you to enjoy on these crags.

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