/ racking carabiners
Just a thought, cheers
If you are going to carry something surely it makes sense for it to be usable? I've ended up belaying off my racking carabiners on quite a few occasions.
Agree. Seems like an unnecessary risk for the sake of £2!
do whatever you like BUT personally i'd prefer everything on my rack to be rated just in case i need it and what about your partner if you alternate leads or share gear they could end up dead if they end up using that krab.
I picked up some DMM cosmetic seconds. Cost about £2 each and are still legit climbing biners. I've used them before in tight spots
It's worth going to the trouble - and, if necessary, the expense - of finding a type of krab that suits your hands, does the job well, and isn't too fiddly; the budget approach often seems less of a good idea as you watch the inadvertently liberated contents of said krab tumble into the sea, or you're struggling with uncooperative gear and rapidly pumping out while eyeballing a bomber, but still vacant, nut crack!
I like to use oval karabiners like the Petzl Owall or the DMM Ultra O Oval Snapgate.
You save a bit of money and a bit of weight seemingly.
But that weight you're now carrying isn't generally useful climbing equipment, and that bit of money doesn't mean much when you're a long way off the ground and have unexpectedly used up all your biners.
That said, it would be nice if there was a less fiddly way to rack wires. Multiple wires on a biner are faff. Would be neat if there was some magical way to just get the wire off I wanted, only when I wanted, with a tug.
If you are really going for it on a short route you could experiment with racking only the pro you want, in order on your harness, with the QD? I have done this once or twice.
That's a neat idea. Have a red point I've set my sights on that I was going to plan out my pro for.
As Ian says, find something you like and get on with, they are arguably the most important carabiners you will ever buy.
I can also testify to using them for runners and belays on numerous occasions.
However, I rack my smallest micro wires on a small Troll Nano wiregate accessory krab to save weight but that is the exception as they are only occasionally carried as a 4th krab of wires. That said, I started doing that when Prowires at 36g were the lightest krabs in the world, but these day it would make more sense to use something like a Camp Nano or an Edelrid 19g.
I also rack my ice screws on non-load bearing krabs but that is fairly standard and the modern purpose designed clippers are MORE expensive than normal krabs, not less.
It seems to work for her.
> As Ian says, find something you like and get on with, they are arguably the most important carabiners you will ever buy.
> I can also testify to using them for runners and belays on numerous occasions.
I'll go with all of this as sound advice.
I used oval wires but would happily use a variety of other Karabiners. DMM Specre2 are very good option, as they have a wide base, are quite lightweight, available in 7 different colours and currently very good value for money: http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Karabiners/Standard-Karabiners/Spectre...
I also think it is a good idea to have more krabs with less wires on as they're easier to handle. Four krabs with 6 wires each on is much less likely to get tangled than 3 krabs with 8 wires each on.
My normally wire rack is:
Krab 1: Doubles of rocks 1-3
Krab 2: Double of rock 4-6
Krab 3: Doubles of rock 7 and 8, plus a single 9 and 10.
I then have a further krab of 8 brass micros that get taken on harder things.
At particually wire intensive venues/routes (Pembroke, Millstone, Left Wall) I'll add an additional krabs of wires in sizes 3-7.
> However, I rack my smallest micro wires on a small Troll Nano wiregate accessory krab to save weight but that is the exception as they are only occasionally carried as a 4th krab of wires. That said, I started doing that when Prowires at 36g were the lightest krabs in the world, but these day it would make more sense to use something like a Camp Nano or an Edelrid 19g.
This is also sound advice except the choice of karabiner. I would speculate that the poster has never held an Edelrid 19 in the flesh. They are far too small and fiddily to use as as a racking krab. The only use I could have for one on my rack is for things like racking my nutkey, prussiks, guidebook holder and trainers. At present however I just use old, (found) snap gates for this job so I can abseil off them if needs be.
The Camp Nano or Metoluis Mini would be good choice of krab for racking micros.
I did this for a while, but these days I prefer to rack them on large wire gates like Oval wires. I don't see the point in carrying karabiners that aren't fully rated as you can't use them for anything else (building belays, abseiling off).
I might use plastic krabs for ice cragging, but I wouldn't bother in scotland or the alps.
Oval wire gate crabs without a shorouded nose are my choice for racking wires. the non- shrouded nose can stop wires tumbling off the crab if your having a bit of a moment. but really its down to personal choice try a few and see what works for you.
They are much exactly the same size as the krab my micros are currently on.
The Nano is a very good shape for racking - probably better than both the Edelrid 19 and the Metolius Mini.
However you can comfortably fit more small wires on a krab than large wires. I try not to carry more than 6 large wires on a krab however I might still carry 8-9 small wires.
> Excellent point.
> However you can comfortably fit more small wires on a krab than large wires. I try not to carry more than 6 large wires on a krab however I might still carry 8-9 small wires.
You can if you have large enough karabiners with broard bases.
When I used to be super keen or carry loadsa of wires I had 14 wires on my smallest krab, 9 wires on my mid sized krab and 7 on my large wires krab.
These days I would rather carry less wires over four krabs as standard. I'll add a 5th krab of mid sizes if it looks like I'm going to need them.
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