/ Omerta at Dumbarton
Yes there is. If you top it out fully there is a two bolt belay, we'll there was when I did it a few years back. Good luck, it's a great route that doesn't see as much attention as it deserves. Desperate start to a good rest at the ledge followed by some great arÍte climbing in a great position.
Not sure you want that crab back now, it's looking a bit rusty I'm afraid!
Thanks you both for the advice. From the few moves I managed it seems like a great route, certainly a stunning line and position. Pity the start is so bloody hard!
It' is nails though!
The bottom problem I would say is at least 7B, possibly 7B+, who knows. It's quite an odd sequence. Perhaps I was jut doing it wrong tho and it's easier??
The top arÍte after the hads off rest is probably around 7a+/7b territory. Surprisingly juggy actually.
I did it in '99, when I wasn't bouldering harder than font 7A/+, so I'd say that first crack is 7A max. I remember some sort of press off a gaston? If it feels harder then you're prob doing it wrong, or being too short (I'm 6ft 1). I remember placing a wire just above the crux, using a clipstick, while sat on the bolt/wire below, to dog past the crux, because the next bolt was too far to stick-clip. The arete up from the rest was about Fr7a+
No problem at all, it's nice to get a bit more info on the route.
I'd heard the start is nails, it was my original intention just to climb the arete from the ledge. Me and my mate had a quick look last week and it was baltic, which made climbing hard. But I can confirm the initial boulder problem is very difficult! Probably even more so if you are short.
The arete itself does have some big holds, I worked out quite a few moves but it could use a bit of a scrub, particularly higher up. And I obviously have to work out how to top out now too!
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