/ Omerta at Dumbarton

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Brendan - on 26 Feb 2013
Hi, does anyone know if there is a lower-off at the top of the cliff above Omerta at Dumby? There's a lower off on the arete itself but it seems a shame not to climb the whole arete to the top.
willackers - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to Brendan:

Yes there is. If you top it out fully there is a two bolt belay, we'll there was when I did it a few years back. Good luck, it's a great route that doesn't see as much attention as it deserves. Desperate start to a good rest at the ledge followed by some great arÍte climbing in a great position.
Burnsie - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to Brendan: the crab high on the arÍte isn't the lower off - its my crab of shame. As Will says you top out and use the chemin rap point. Always meant to get back on this and retrieve my crab but never did. The start is brick hard.
Brendan - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to Burnsie:

Not sure you want that crab back now, it's looking a bit rusty I'm afraid!

Thanks you both for the advice. From the few moves I managed it seems like a great route, certainly a stunning line and position. Pity the start is so bloody hard!
dj_brigham05 - on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Brendan: I spent a (small) amount of time cleaning it last year. Really cool route in a great setting. Would be good to see if getting more traffic so it stays clean.

It' is nails though!
Kevin Woods - on 06 Mar 2013
Can anyone suggest a french or font grade for the bottom problem, and a sport grade for the arete above the ledge? I'm just interested to know how difficult it would be split into two problems.
dj_brigham05 - on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Kevin Woods:

The bottom problem I would say is at least 7B, possibly 7B+, who knows. It's quite an odd sequence. Perhaps I was jut doing it wrong tho and it's easier??

The top arÍte after the hads off rest is probably around 7a+/7b territory. Surprisingly juggy actually.

Fultonius - on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Kevin Woods: Font 7B+ often gets bandied about for the start, F7b sport to the top.
switch - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to Fultonius:

I did it in '99, when I wasn't bouldering harder than font 7A/+, so I'd say that first crack is 7A max. I remember some sort of press off a gaston? If it feels harder then you're prob doing it wrong, or being too short (I'm 6ft 1). I remember placing a wire just above the crux, using a clipstick, while sat on the bolt/wire below, to dog past the crux, because the next bolt was too far to stick-clip. The arete up from the rest was about Fr7a+
Kevin Woods - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to switch: Bleedin eck.. I might be in with a chance
Kevin Woods - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to Brendan: And apologies for hijacking the thread a bit - but the comments are appreciated.
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Brendan - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Kevin Woods:

No problem at all, it's nice to get a bit more info on the route.

I'd heard the start is nails, it was my original intention just to climb the arete from the ledge. Me and my mate had a quick look last week and it was baltic, which made climbing hard. But I can confirm the initial boulder problem is very difficult! Probably even more so if you are short.

The arete itself does have some big holds, I worked out quite a few moves but it could use a bit of a scrub, particularly higher up. And I obviously have to work out how to top out now too!

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