/ A tip for sport climbers
No problem thought I. She can belay me up and I'll be able to get it undone. 30 Minutes later we were both cold and wondering how you get a krab undone or cut a sling without a knife or any other tools. Eventually, I blew on the krab for a while to warm the gate and it came undone. Praise the lord!
Possible lessons learned.
1. Always check old screwgates, lube where necessary and bin dodgy ones.
2. Always carry a knife or some such implement.
Any similar stories or comments ? I have done a fair bit of climbing and have never been in the situation where a climber was effectively stuck attached to the wall 15 metres up !
Don't screw the gate up whilst the crab is loaded, when you release the load to strip the gear, the crab compresses the collar, locking it all together.
To release, load the crab then unscrew
Just don't bother with a screwgate - use a draw or two.
If you had a prussick you can wrap the cord around the sling once, and use a sawing motion. The friction will cut the sling quite quickly.
Bet the OP wishes he'd thought of that...
Works surprisingly well, I've used tat to cut tat in this way when we realised we'd both forgotten a knife. Agree quickdraws would be better in this situation though.
Not really applicable to sport climbers...But you can cut slings by bashing with a hammer against rock.
You didn't read through the original post very carefully did you?
The usual problem is doing them up while loaded then attempting to undo them while unloaded. The solution is to increase the load while you undo them either by bouncing or by adding weight.
In this case it sounds like maybe that wasn't the problem?
Did she clip straight into her belay loop rather than rope loop?
> In this case it sounds like maybe that wasn't the problem?
As stated above, the problem is usually a combination of overdone sleeve and loading. Its quite common to see people tightening the collar in the belief that it adds to the strength. In reality, it can be quite loose and still prevent the gate accidentally opening which is all its supposed to do.
Having said that older krabs seem to be more prone to this presumably because stops and threads get a bit worn.
Just a thought, maybe the krab gets lightly done up but as the climber is lowered the vibrations caused by the rope running over the krab cause the sleeve to shake and move further thus giving the impression it was locked under load. Likely to be more of a problem with older krabs.
I think the hard surface finish on modern gear helps prevent too much sticking and binding.
Not in this case, I'm guessing, as the OP is talking about static load with no rope running. Most likely overtightening the sleeve plus doing it under load
I was offering a solution to the problem the op found himself in. Obviously using draws is preferable, but if he found himself in the same situation with a screwgate, what I said would work fine. Not sure what's silly about that.
Alternatively, always climb with a smoker. A lighter and melt any sling.
In extremis I'm pretty sure you could melt the sling by running the rope fast over it with tension. Not that I'd like to find myself having to attempt such an appauling maneuver mind!
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