/ UKC Fit Coub week 311

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AJM - on 03 Mar 2013
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (310) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=539879

Posters:
AJM
deacondeacon - got to take the days out when you can get them this time of year!
Si dH - quick 7A+ crush before the skiing, nice one!
JimmyKay - sounds like a good trip. Can momentum help you get around the whole "pop out of a static position" thing, avoid the lock bit by moving straight through it maybe?
Daniel Heath - your week is very heavy compared with mine! Did you get out at Millstone?
Kevster - I'd dovetail the fingerboarding with the rest of your training in terms of how you structure sessions, gives your body a consistent message. 
Eagle River - how was Malham?
IainRUK - steady miles. What's the next big race/event for you?
kylieo - definitely sounds like 7a time
DoctorU - nice one on the 6b! Good week...
Ian Bell - good variety of walls there, means you can't get too used to one style I guess? How was Font?
Exile - impressed at how you manage to pack all those short sessions in. It's really something I need to take inspiration from at the moment. 
seankenny - as long as you're doing a bit you're still maintaining, that's the way I'm seeing it at the moment...
Joughton - sounds like a pretty manic week - one rest day and that due to exhaustion? Lots of stuff done, nice one. 
pork pie girl - lots of hard stuff tried on that trip!
Ally Smith - impressed with the psyche for lamplight sessions. Bet the roast was good after a beasting day Saturday!
Sankey - I've never really got any desire to lead consenting, just not a route I get on with at all... Can't offer much on peak recommendations, although Si might be able to point you in the right direction?
Luke Owens - sounds like a good day out Sunday!
NMN - rest week
mrchewy - jealous of the winter action!
maria85 - well done on the Parkrun and again, jealous of the winter action
leon - hope you're feeling better
biscuit - hope the day out was good? A solid day out to focus on each week has got to be good for giving a plan structure. 
AllyBee - goals have to fit in with life. If goals are achieveable you'll push yourself to do it but if they were never realistic anyway then I find it so much harder to go all out knowing I'll still not make them. 
Nomics4sale - sounds like a great trip, well done!
Jamming Dodger - favourite bike back then?
mattrm - don't get disheartened by one bad session - they happen, just take what you can from it and look forwards to doing better in the next one...
AJM - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

Another slack week. Managed one good wall session, ticked a 6C on the Mothership, fell off two 6C+s and 7A after several goes, managed 2 from the new hard circuit, the oranges, one was dead easy the other moderately tough, and tried another one several times but no tick, centimetre away from the good hold!

Big progress on one front though which is that I actually made a bicycle work - always struggled to get the pull in on the toe. Combined with usefully using a toe hook last week at RCC I feel like I'm seeing technique improvements slowly but surely!

Need to take inspiration from the people who actually have busy lives and start squeezing some more sessions in come hell or high water.
JimmyKay - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

First UK climbing since the start of October yesterday. Finally ticked off T Crack at Cratcliffe. It felt so easy in the conditions! So psyched to tick off another long overdue problem from my list! Only V8 but's stopped me for years!
IainRUK - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM: 100k at the end of March dominates

m: 7 mile road run tired after transatlantic flight
t: am: 8 mile trail run derwent edge pm: 6 mile road run
w: 5 miles fell run burbage valley.
t: drove rotterdam > Rostock for my new job. 14 mile road run in rostock
f: am: steady 3 miles. pm: 4.5 mile beach run
s: Nord OStsee Marathon.. won 2:39:54.. finally broke the 2:40 barrier but wasn't meant to.. just decided on the day to run it hard. won 100 euros and a beach towell... very german.. happy with that after a hard week and no real taper.. tough head wind for the first 13 miles, but stayed strong and caught the leader at 20 miles..
s: 11 miles in rostock Heide
Jamming Dodger on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM: Still no sign of the bike!! Should be ready soon. He's been busy.
Monday: Nothing
Tuesday: 7.5 mile run
Wednesday: Nothing
Thursday: 28 mile bike commute
Friday: 28 mile bike commute
Saturday and Sunday: Lots of junk food and no exercise :/

STG: Lose another 10lbs
LTG: Lead a 7a.
Should get in 4 commutes this week (=112 miles), possibly a run and a climbing session and lots of errrrr other stuff...
Kevster - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy,

Like you I've had a quieter week too.

Mon: Finger board
Tues: Indoor leading, and falling.
Sat: Outside - Avon, 2xVS, 2xHVS and 1xE1

Been taking it easy as I have a planned journey to Scotland this week for some classic rock ticks, and didn't want to mess up with a silly injury. Fingers X for good weather! Its been great there for 3 weeks now, praying!

This coming week: setting 2 days, then off to scotland for a trad fest, god willing.

Cheers, Kev
leon on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

STG: Stick to the training plan.
MTG:
LTG(2013): Redpoint sport 7b, 1 e3, 1 e2 that plenty of people think is e3.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 0(94)
Fat %: 12
Focus: Local Endurance(4/4)
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. Repertoire of moves. FoF.

Mon: Nothing.
Tue: Nothing.
Wed: Nothing.
Thu: Nothing.
Fri: Nothing.
Sat: Nothing.
Sun: Arc(30 mins). Repeaters.

Thanks AJM. Mixture of illness, going to see the wifes family and my daughter screaming at me all night meant hardly any training. Going to get an early night tonight & hopefully make amends next week.

Plan for next week:
Mon: Weights. Core
Tues: Bouldering.
Wed: Wall session.
THurs: Core
Fri: Bouldering.
Sun: Arc, Repeaters, 4x4.
Sankey - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM: Ticking over week, need some definite projects either bouldering or sport to get stuck into.

M:Static Bike 8 km
T:Matrix (New problems, Up to Font 6a+)
W:Static Bike 8 km
T:Matrix (1 6b)
F:
S:
S:Apparent North Circuit


STG: V4 ish boudlering e.g. Walnut Traverse at Birchen -WORKING / Crucifix traverse at Almscliff
2 problems I couldn't quite do last winter, so good benchmarks

MTG: RP 6c in Turkey Feb 5th onwards DONE / French 7a boulder traverse equivalent at churnet

LTG: 7a Sport RP
Exile - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

In reply to AJM, Re short sessions, I just get up early some mornings if I know I'll struggle to get the volume otherwise. It's the only way I can do the training and not short change the family. Having said that I did quite a few last week as I knew work was going to get in the way this week...

Goals:

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7
RP - 7a+ / 7b
HP - E6
Winter - VI 7

Summer
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.

Weeks training:

M: Work - no training
T: Work - no training
W: Work - managed a 45 min fell run late evening
T: 2 hr bouldering - warm up, 4x4, core, 4x4, short repeater session. Very good session - managed to up the difficulty of the problems in the 4x4s
F: Was going to train in the morning but still shot from Thursday evening. Evening session traversing on 6b+ traverse outside.
S: 4hrs 15min on the hill, did Chock Gully IV 5** on Falcon Crag, which was great as being a bit of a lists person it was good to get this Cold Climbs classic after waiting for it for 20yrs! Doesn't get me any closer to VI 7 but nothing that hard was 'in' in the Lakes this weekend.
S: Nothing - brownie points lacking after last minute string pulling / favour calling to make yesterday happen.

Not a great training week but made up for by the winter route.
Ian Bell - on 03 Mar 2013
Hi all

For me

T - Castle bouldering. Numerous easier ones. 2v3, 2xv4. Dropped last move a couple of times on another v4.
Fri - Font. 4 orange, 6 blue, 1 red. Feeling strong, saving a bit of energy for the next day. Unfurtunately managed to also wrench my shoulder and twist my ankle quite badly, neither of which I noticed till the evening.
Sat - font. ankle quite sore. 3 orange and 1 blue, couldn't really weight it.
Sun - head back from Font.

good weekend in font if frustrating to get injured and so not get much done on the 2nd day. was feeling good on day 1 though. Ankle isn't too bad now, just bad enough to wipe out the 2 days in font! hopefully get back to rope climbing / fingerboard end of next week. was still good though, every time i go i leave wondering how to sort the next trip!
Joughton on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM: Cheers Andy, it wasn't actually intended as a rest day but we felt tired and were at a rubbish crag so just gave it away...

Really busy week this week, didn't have any time over the weekend for a proper climbing session.

Mon - Session lapping at MCC, each of these sets I lead the first then toproped the rest: 6c+, 7b+, 6c+, 7b+, all clean, then rest, then on another 7b+ which is harder but less cruxy: 7b+, 7b+, 7b+,7b+. First three leads clean then fell off halfway up fourth, never been so exhausted whilst climbing which actually felt good. Finished doing a couple of laps on a 7b before totally burning out.
Tue, Wed, Thur - nothing, rubbish:(
Fri - bouldering at Stockport, terrible grading meant I flashed three of the V7-8 and worked a few others, then fell off V4s.
Sat - Did a two day mountain first-aid course at the wall, learn some useful things for rescuing people from difficult situations safely, and general first aid stuff like CPR and the recovery position. Got a little bit of bouldering done in the breaks, managed a few V4s in trainers.
Sun - second day of first aid course, dealing with more complicated situations, bleeding, and broken arms and legs. Finished by doing some 'real life' situations which involved covering certain members of the group in fake blood, make some bones stick out of clothes and using vegetable soup as fake sick. Surprisingly realistic but too comical to be taken seriously! So I've now got a basic mountain first aid qualification which means I can do stuff like SPA or CWA if I want to work at a climbing wall for a summer job or do some coaching.

Cheers, Jake
biscuit - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy.

Had work at short notice which buggered up my day out so it didn't happen.

I've got next weeks booked in. Full week at work and rain forecast every day so psyche is already low. Booked in for the weekend though forecast says it may keep raining. Even had snow in the village this week. Madness.

Not managed much this week. Still very de motivated and tired after work was a convenient excuse.

I got a weighted pull ups session and weighted dead hangs session done. Both purposefully below max as it has been a couple of weeks. They both felt fine.

No bike riding as my bike didn't get to the new house until Friday.

Swimming i did once. Did a warm up and some drills then got bored and decided to see how far i could swim. I think i did 750m, which is the distance for the race, it may have been more as i was so bored i was losing track. So it's good to know i can go that far already. Schedule says i should be up to 300m continuous swim now so way ahead. Could have done quite a bit more but was too bored to carry on.

Got a hard week at work ahead so i am not going to set myself up to fail. I will get through and see what i get done. I think i need a positive day on rock to get me back in the groove. Hopefully this weekend will give me that.
NMN - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM.
I would've liked to have got more done this week but work was very busy including a couple of evenings working in to the early hours so it wasn't too bad.


Running goals:
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Wasdale - get round.

STG:
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
MTG:
Push trad grade.
LTG:
Lead a tough E1.


M - 5.08m road run, 57ft.
T - Working away.
W – Working away.
T – 9.01m trail run, 1,884ft.
T - very brief outdoor bouldering (lovely day but late afternoon it was freezing).
F – 5.06m treadmill, 11%.
F – Indoor bouldering.
S - Nothing (tired).
S - 5.02m road run, 61ft.
pork pie girl - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

a rubbish week generally in terms of achievments but lots of mileage and a fair amount of effort

m-pm int training on bike and core at gym
t-pm int trainin on bike and core in gym, bouldering (felt rubbish but kept going and then some laps on top rope
w-lunch weights and core (usual pull ups)pm int training on bike
t- climbing at malham about 10 laps on top rope on three different routes (puddlejumper, raindogs and consenting) dogged everything apart from one go on puddlejumper. i climbed crap but the company was good :o).. pm turbo trainer (bike) in garage.. tired legs but did 45 mins
f- lucnh time weights and core (pulls ups) , pm turbo trainer in garage.. had a really bad day at work so tubo trainer workout was welcomed
s- malham- consenting to warm up (hate this route.. it's official, if i got a pound for every time i come off id be very rich)then tremelo - three goes on top rope.. hard.. bit reachy in places ... struggle. pm turbo trainer in garage (sulking)
s -(today) mountain bike ride early this morning (get up at 6am week days so keep waking early at the weekends too.. 7am is a lie in) lots od ascent, nowt technical.. changed from flat pedals back to spds which felt good. pm climbing wall... bouldered on the new problems... in my opion the set is rubbish again.. won't go on about it too much though as that's boring.. did some steeper v4s and tried a steepish crimpy v6. then did some routes ..falling practice then leading ..one fall on a 7a, few falls on a 7b+ (very happy with this especially the clipping as battled through some fear and did a move that i thought would be impossible for me on the second go .. with help from an on looker who told me to let lose with one foot as i lunged for a hold.. it worked instantly amd made me buzz my A cups off.

sunday pm ..sausage casserole, mash and chocolate cake at my mum's... good end to a day.

so after a difficult week in terms of climbing, work and generally still missing me pa it ended quite well

PPG
pork pie girl - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit:

don't know what work oyu do biscuit but hope it settles down for you... all work and no play is not good :o)
mattrm - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM.

Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening

STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 12st 4lbs
Process goals
- 3 core, 2 cardio, 1 boulder - all done + 1 extra bouldering sesh
- diet - on holiday to try and limit boozing and eating crap where possible (might fail at this!) - errrr fail...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minux etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100stay injury free & maintain 11st

Weight - Not weighed, but dread to think

M - 5 mi walk
T - 5 mi walk - 1hr at Langdale boulders
W - 4 mi walk + core (Gowbarrow Fell and Little Mell Fell)
T - Core & stretches
F - 7.17 mi walk (700m) 4 wainwrights
S - Rest
S - Core

If it hadn't been for eating all the crap, two meals out and a night in the pub along with misc other booze it would have been a great training week. Lots of fairly gentle walking, did all my core stuff and had two nice sessions at the Langdale boulders. Didn't send anything, but put the effort in and it's got to help the old fingers out. 2 months to the first ultra of the year. So it's just waiting out the dodgy toe (which is still knackered) and then building up the runs in the weeks beforehand. Hoping that I'll be able to come outside the last 10 this time. Not a massive goal, but this foot injury has put paid to anything else.

4 core, 3 cardio and 1 boulder
Light breakfast, Soup for lunch, sensible evening meals
biscuit - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Well it could be worse - i'm a climbing instructor working in Southern Spain ;0) But thanks for the thought.

Just the weather at the moment is freezing and wet. It's very tiring instrucing/looking after clients in those conditions.

If i was motivated i'd be getting something done but i'm on a low ebb at the moment so i'm not being bothered.

As soon as i get a good day on rock i'll be back to it.
pork pie girl - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

PS i forgot ..wall sessions today.. finished with three laps on a 7a... pleased as didn't need to rest
mattrm - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

2:39? I'm in awe. Very impressive.
Daniel Heath - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy

M-Boxing, then endurance circuits at TCS. Boxing felt great this week. I got a buzz out of trying hard.
T-
W-
T-High Tor - Supersonic. Wasn't climbing great, but had a big experience on it. Broke a hold at the end of the run out and fell onto a skyhook! That almost makes up for not climbing it clean.
F-Millstone - Toproped Monopoly E7 6b clean 2nd go. Tempting to go for the solo, but it didn't feel sensible.
S-CWIF. I climbed weak, but that's because I am weak now. Since I've trained endurance I've lost the ability to try hard and focus on big moves. I've become increasingly static and delicate, but I'm generally happy that I'm a better route climber for it.
S-Bouldered the start to Rasp Direct, which will be fun to lead. Also lead Bat Out of Hell E5 6a, but fell a few times before committing to the crux and the cam above it. Looking forward to leading it clean.
Daniel Heath - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

Wow great achievement there. You must be pleased with that.
deacondeacon - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:


Thanks for looking after fitclub again AJM


STG-indoor f7a+ redpoint and a couple more F7A's on grit.

MTG-few routes on my wishlist, long johns slab, archangel, the rasp. (by end of april)

LTG- consolidate E4, at least 10 (by the end of 2013)

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Mon-Nothing

Tue-Trad up to E2 at Tremadog

Wed-Bouldering at the foundry

Thu-Trad up to E1 at Stanage

Fri-Nothing

Sat-Soloing and Bouldering at Stanage

Sun-Trad up to E2 at Stanage

-----------------------------------

Another week with lots of Trad and a first visit to Tremadog. Really loved it and Lead The Plum with the E2 start (although it felt more like an HVS). Seconded Vector too, and got pretty freaked out on it.
I'm so used to short grit routes that if things aren't going perfectly and I'm above 15 metres I start to really freak out. This year I'm trying to get off the grit as much as possible to help this though.
Three sessions at Stanage this week which is a little excessive but I have an irrational aim of ticking the whole crag. Highlights have been a clean lead of Fern Groove (mate reckons I've already led it but I have no recollection) and soloing Sithee. Also onsighted Tip off Right which was nails and reckon most people finish up the VS arete, felt like hard E2 with blinkers on.

Practically no training this week, just one bouldering session at the foundry which was rubbish. I was knackered from Tremadog the day before and it was really busy.


IainRUK - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks, and Matt.

Aye, but that was last years target. I only targetted one quick marathon last year and that was Boston where it was 30 deg C so ran 2:44, but the people I train with, my other race paces, training paces all suggest 2:40 should be a formality.. so it was nice to get it done without too much of an interruption to training and aim for 2:36/2:37 sort of run at Prague I think, then if I get that look for sub 2:35 in the fall. We'll see. I have a more stable life now so think that may help the running.
mrchewy - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM: Ta Andy. If life is too busy i.e. work AND doing up a van, then don't beat yourself up about not fitting in as much climbing as you'd like - view the van as part of your training. It will help you to climb more eventually and in turn, that'll bring grade gains. Van = training.
It's just the usual matter of being totally honest with yourself as to why you missed a session. Genuine rest day? Or lazy? Busy? Or no motivation? Struggling myself at the moment with focus and can't seem to pin down where it's gone, it'll sort tho.

Weight - gone to seed. Two kilos on lately.

Mon - Ill. Off work. Being sick due to dehydration.
Tue - Ill. Off work.
Wed - Work, then easy bouldering. Fingers okay-ish, so stuck to V0 and V1s on slabs and vertical.
Thu - Ill. Off work. Doctors. Blood Pressure 84/55. Dizzy as some of the blondes I've been out with.
Fri - 10 x 10 exercise session. Quick and easy. Lunges, burpees, pressups etc.
Sat - Visiting daughter. Ice cream and a chinese.
Sun - English breakie and lots of driving.

Getting dehydrated the wkd before totally wiped me out. When I finally went to the Doc's, was told I should have been on a drip once I'd started being sick in the early hours of Monday. Big lesson learnt, drink more water whilst out winter climbing. The low blood pressure explains the dizziness on Crib Goch tho.

Another week that feels wasted in terms of fitness however and need to step up the game somewhat. The knee ligament isn't painful now, just loose and the fingers are getting there.

Must do better.

mrchewy - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to everyone: A bit de-motivated at the moment but when I look down everyone's reports, there's people working away (always hard training wise), people moving home and generally just having busy lives. So hoping some of everyone's psyche for the coming year will rub off at some point.

Iain - Nice win chap and having to lead the race for the last six miles must have been a big head game.
IainRUK - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: Cheers, I knew I had a sizeable gap as I knew he'd blown, but the main thing was the time and I had the police car to chase as that was the lead car. It felt remarkably comfortable, and I ran 11 miles yesterday.. I thnk all the 20+ mile runs recently made a massive difference.
Nomics4sale - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM.

STG: 7b in Spain in March
MTG: more E1s and look at E2 Summer 2013
LTG: not sure

Mon: nowt
Tues: nowt
Wed: 4.5 mile local trail/road run. First evening run of the year :-)
Thurs: Malham, toproping Consenting and Something Stupid. SS desperate! Good to get out with like minded PPG :-)
Fri: 4.5 mile local trail/road run.
Sat: Lucy Creamer session at Kendal Wall. Picked up a few tips and acheived my main objective of meeting a climbing hero. She demonstrated a few moves for us, made everything look so easy and graceful which was an education in itself.
Sun: 10.7 mile local trail run.

Not much climbing this week, was hoping to get out on Sunday but couldn't get a partner. Gutted not to get out on Saturday in the good weather but had already booked on to the Lucy Creamer thing.

Got some good psyche now and am getting really keen for the week in Spain in a couple of weeks and for Summer in general.
Ally Smith on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:
Great to get a tick this week, but wall session might indicate i'm going backwards. Hard to tell as it was 2nd day on?

LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham

MTG (Spring 2013) - Melanchollie at LPT & be fit for Terredets at Easter. Found video of La Marroncita at Oliana. Think this will be one of my Easter targets.

STG (end Feb 2013)
- Re-hab ankle injuries :-(
- Continue re-hab of finger injury and re-start finger boarding.
- Get back in the cave of justice
- Lots of elbow eccentrics - Zottman curls proving good combination exercise
- Back to Brean Down and finish off ticking the crag. 4 new routes and a retro-bolt since i lived in Bristol.
- Get back below 75kg (Currently 76.6kg and 6.7% BF)
- More core
- More an-cap
- More small holds, preferably outside

M - Fingerboarding. Repeaters 4x drag on BM2K slots (+4kg), 3x drag on BM2K sml slots (+2kg) 3x doorjamb crimp (+2kg). Felt pretty maxed out at end of session.
T- Rest
W - Sports massage at work gym helped massively to get feet to stick on Hatch Life which went down on my 3rd go. 7C+ with extra kneebar; first 8A still eludes me. Then worked LF again. Home late.
T - Bouldering at Hangar. An-cap in cave, but felt fairly goosed. Couldn't do the work-out i'd planned, and because upstairs had been stripped for re-setting, aero-cap wasn't an option either.
F - Rest
S - Millstone. Few warm-ups, then TR on Masters Edge. Bit too greasy in shade for lefthand to consider the lead as once i'd got it dialed i felt too tired. Would probably have been alright, but didn't want to risk it with ski and sport trips just around the corner. Bouldered at Burbage N.
S - More grit. Great bouldering circuit at Almscliff. Got shut down by The Keel, but managed Demon Wall Roof for first time in ages.
AJM - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to ally smith:

Well done on the cave tick ally! Surely even if it had been 8A its really a ~8b route in reality? ;)

Sounds like you're making progress on Lou Ferrino - that's 8A right?
grubes - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:
cheers AJM
STG (Mar 2013):
More than 1 7 in spain maybe a grade push
MTG (July 2013)
Climb harder than 7a in UK and abroad.
Lead E3 try onsight
LTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Great wall at squamish
7b
E3/4
Weight loss!

This Weeks Goals:
at least 1 other wall session
Works friday before work trip to china saturday

Week 310
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Rokt. Lack Luster session ... Did a few laps on the 7a wood showing a friend how to do it.
T: Rest
F: Works. I was shit ... flashed some yellows though and even did a wasp second go should of flashed it
S: Flight to beijing
S: Arrive at hotel not sure what time it is or where I was

Week 311
M: long day at the office. meal and beer at lunch, meal and beer in the evening
T: meeting then flight to Louyang. Evening meal Drank Chinese(50%) wine and red wine
W: Meeting all day long lunch drank beer and wine. Curry in the evening drank coke. Flight to shanghai.
T: Meetings all day. Meal in the evening drank Chinese yellow wine.
F: 2 hour drive meetings all day 2 hour drive + car crash on way to hotel. Light evening meal drank beer.
S: 24 hours traveling. No booze ate mcdonalds at schipol airport.
S: Depot 2 hours+. Did the comp but should of waited heavily dehydrated felt very faint at the end of the session. Poor comp round need to claw some points back. Made a nice meal lots of veg no booze

Next Weeks goals:
NO BOOZE!
3 sessions +
Lead session

So not a very good couple of weeks. I listed my booze as I have almost completely cut the booze out since christmas but I realised I drunk every day. Not very heavily but still will not help my weight loss.
Feeling stiff and tired still from the flight.
ads.ukclimbing.com
grubes - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to ally smith: Nice one on Hatch life first big goal of the year down?
grubes - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes:
oh yeah Spain is a week on firday and I am incredibly psyched!

Plus I have booked a trip to portland for the second bank holiday weekend in may 24-27th if anyone is around? I will probably climb sat and sunday then head off early monday for peak on monday morning
grubes - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: Well done on T crack geuss you are still not short of power ;o)

Also looks like an awesome week in the forest. Well done on big jim I am keen for this on my next visit had a play last time but with two small pad and two small female spotter (I probably weighed more than them combined) I was not keen to give it a go.
Ally Smith on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM and grubes:

Thanks. It felt great to start at the back of the cave and climb to the lip.

8a+/b probably, so a good intro to getting routes of a similar grade done this year.

Lou Ferrino is a baby 7C+ for the original method, and baby 8A for the sans chip variation. I'm working both :-)
mattrm - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to ally smith:

Impressive ticks there. Masters Edge is impressive. Do you feel like it was something you could have onsighted?
Ally Smith on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to mattrm:

Ah, I didn't do Masters. I bottled leading it after getting the moves wired on TR. OS? Miles off. I'd need a massive amount of time on grit trad to feel comfortable about going for it ground-up. I don't have that time, and can't ever see how i would in the future. It's a great line, steeped in history, so TR'ing it first is something i need to accept is necessary to bring it down to my level.
Eagle River - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy

STG: 7c by April 2013. (Tremelo, metal guru, biological need)
MTG: Raindogs

Mon. Malham. LHS still wet so got on raindogs again. Almost linked from 2nd bolt to top but fumbled grabbing the lower off as there were quickdraws in the way from the top rope.

Wed. Indoor routes. Couple of goes on the leading ladder 8a, ticked off a newish 7b and failed later on another 7b. The 8a is savage, I'm getting six bolts up but failing at the crux.

Sat. Malham. LHS dry so got on tremelo. Think I've got a sequence sorted now, will start redpoint attempts next time I'm there. That sounds like a cue for it to piss it down continuously for 6months.
grubes - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to Eagle River:
hahaha don't suppose moose was there? he has been trying to lead that since april I think
grubes - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to Eagle River: just reread your post 2nd to top on raindogs ... Plus on lead no draws in the way .. must be close to getting on the RP then?
Eagle River - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes:

Not even remotely close but I like your optimism.

It's one to keep in the background for Malham trips when tremelo is wet.
AJM - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

How many more sessions do you think you need, out of curiosity?

I don't know if you have clips sorted and things yet, and obviously different people want things wired to different degrees before they start lead attempts (for historic reasons I've mentioned on here before I usually try and start as soon as I can link between the bolts, and on right hand man I was on lead+clipstick before I could do the crux) but if I had, what, 5 moves and 2 clips to add into a link I had already done I wouldn't want to leave it much longer for fear of the dreaded TR DO!

:)
AJM - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

TR RP even!!!
seankenny - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy! Slightly rubbish week from me, have had a cold so didn't feel like doing much at all, very frustrating. Went to Bowles on Sunday and bodged around on a very hard 6a, tho apparently I did about the same level on it at about the same time last year! Disheartening, or perhaps I'm just under the weather this week.
kylieo on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy.

Monday - bouldering. Got further on a couple of purples (V4-V6), including consistently getting a big move I couldn't get near before. Felt like they might be possible after a little more work, unfortunately it's now been reset!
Tuesday - conditioning and antagonist.
Wednesday - should have been 4x4 routes but a reset meant we didn't know suitable routes. Instead we tried the new routes. Got a 6b clean, completely failed a 6c, tried a 7a which should be possible but has a big last move, had a go on a 7a+ on top rope and got all the moves so maybe a longer term project there.
Thursday - conditioning and antagonist.
Friday - lots of bouldering to warm up and tried a few new easyish problems. Then 20/10s, offsets and foot on touches on the campus board.
Saturday - rest.
Sunday - a long session on new routes. Thoroughly failed a 6b. Onsighted 6b+, tried the 7a but came off last move. Top roped another 7a+, got all the moves but it was harder (more cruxy) than the other one. One last go on the 7a but I was wasted and got nowhere.

Overall pretty pleased, I feel like I'm getting a bit stronger and it's definitely helping. The first 7a+ was quite overhanging and not long ago I was struggling to do 6c moves on that wall.
mattrm - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to ally smith:

I saw that you'd only top roped it. Down here in VS punterdom, that is very impressive.
JimmyKay - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to ally smith:

Where are you based? You seem to climb all over the place all the time!
Joughton on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath: Wow, that's a big fall from the end of the run out, you're lucky! Can't remember using any holds that felt like they'd fall off though, I stuck to the pockets, where abouts was the hold that broke?

Just out of interest, was a skyhook all you placed or was there better gear further down? Because I remember a bomber nut at the end of the crack where the runout starts, or was the skyhook above that in one of the higher pockets? Either way I'm glad you're okay.

Bat Out of Hell is tough! Really pumpy and so much effort to get the gear in, though I can imagine it's a fun one to go ground-up on. Monopoly sounds scary man, I hope if you do try it that you're really confident you'll get it.
useful on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM: Yes, an excellent week! Late again :/

So given last week's 3 sessions, this week was only one session:
Tu: 8 routes at Awesome Walls Liverpool. I left my logbook at home, so don't have details (everyone breathes a sigh of relief!). But we did have fun squeezing in 2 last routes at ten to 10pm, Steve clean ascended a nice 6a+ in 2 minutes, and I did the same in 3 minutes with a final leap to the top, then fall off! :) Also tried a few 6b and 6c routes, but with little initial success. Will keep trying
W: Weights circuit, 10 x 7 kg.
Sa: Only marginal solo'ing(!) at Reading climbing wall, to place Bagpuss high enough up for my daughter to climb up to - she really loved the game of clipping Bagpuss into her harness then taking him further up the wall!
--
This week: Aiming to climb twice this week (Weds & Sunday) to allow some hand recovery/overcompensation, and focussing on fitness and strength otherwise (Mon, Tues, Thurs). Saturday will probably be a walk in the mountains again...
useful on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to DoctorU: Oh, and weight was stable at 78.9kg, which is good seeing as I was troughing like a pig all week! Time to lighten the load again...
useful on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to mattrm: Me too, I had to read that twice. It's about 30 minutes off my HALF-marathon time!
Eagle River - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

I'm well aware of the dreaded clean top rope, having done that on Frankie. I can't seem to get across how intense the climbing on raindogs feels to me. I'm completely ruined after about 3 attempts on half of it. I've not even tried the bottom section yet so have no idea how hard it is but it's steeper than the bit I've been doing. And given that its the classic power endurance route at the grade, even adding two moves in feels ridiculous.

It'll come with effort I hope, but I do want to tick some 7c's and I figure its a good route to have an eye on when others are wet. I'm not committing balls out to the siege just yet as there is other stuff I want to get done first.
useful on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: Chin up: there's only about 4 weeks until the clocks change (sunset at 8pm), then hopefully some outdoors action before/after work will be feasible!! Keep an eye on that... :)
mrchewy - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to DoctorU: Thanks for the cheeriness - it made me smile. The little matter of at least a four hour round trip to the nearest rock means no evenings outdoor for me!
Just got to be patient, the fingers will heal and the knee ligament tear is only five weeks old... patience, patience.
useful on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: Sounds like you're just biding your time, planning an assault on your nemesis route! :D
AJM - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

I meant in terms of how long before you move onto lead working of it not how long before you tick, if I wasn't clear. I didn't necessarily mean that you ought to be on redpoints because based on the stereotypical experience of Raindogs it would probably be quite a siege. I have a fear of over top-roping rather than dogging things on lead so perhaps sometimes I come across as a bit preachy, apologies if so. Not everyone shares the weaknesses that it brings out in me and not everyone cares even if it does to them but sometimes I forget that :)
Eagle River - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

I didn't take it as preachy, just didn't want to get people's hopes up!

I should probably answer your question though. I think it'll take a session to get the bottom section sorted, after that there's no point putting a top rope on it as I think my sequence for the top is OK so I'll start the demoralising process of trying to lead it and finding out just how far away it is!
mrchewy - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to Eagle River: So you'll be reporting success when I take fit club in two weeks? Grand! Definitely need a new BIG grade and you're it I'm afraid.

No pressure like ;-)
Luke Owens - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM!

STG - 7b (My project) and Font 7A
MTG - 7c and Font 7A+
LTG - 8a and Font 7B/+

Monday - Rest

Tuesday - Oswestry Wall with Girlfriend. Managed to tick one of the "Hard" comp problems I didn't do in the comp last week. climbed some easier stuff and helped out Danielle, she crushed!

Wednesday - Fingerboard repeaters 5 sec hangs, 5 sec rest x 6 (2 minutes rest between sets reduced from 3 minutes last week)
1. One hand on 20's one hand on 35's on Slopers.
2. Alternate hands as above.
3. Middle 2
4. Pinch grip with a 20kg weight attached to a piece of 2x4.
5. Pinch grip with other hand as above.
6. Front 3 - open hand.
7. Back 2 with one foot on chair
(Did 2 sets of all the above hangs)

Thursday - Rest

Friday - Fingerboard repeaters 5 sec hangs, 5 sec rest x 6 (3 minutes rest between sets reduced from 3 minutes last week)
1. One hand on 20's one hand on 35's on Slopers.
2. Alternate hands as above.
3. Middle 2
4. Pinch grip with a 20kg weight attached to a piece of 2x4.
5. Pinch grip with other hand as above.
6. Front 3 - open hand.
7. Back 2 with one foot on chair
(Did 2 sets of all the above hangs)

Saturday - Long walk with little one in baby carrier in the Eglwyseg.

Sunday - First time working my new route after bolting it last week. One elusive slopey move stopped me most of the day. I finally figured it out towards the end of the day. 2 other guys had a go on top-rope and reckoned it was 7b. Can't wait to get on redpoint, I feel lucky to of found a new route that is at the grade I want to climb at this year!
mattrm - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to DoctorU:
> (In reply to mattrm) Me too, I had to read that twice. It's about 30 minutes off my HALF-marathon time!

I know, scary isn't it. There's not lot of runners in Fit Club, so I don't think everyone knows quite how impressive at 2:39 marathon is. Well I'm impressed by it.

AJM - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to mattrm:

I'm very impressed, although I freely admit that beyond knowing it's a pretty awesome time I can't quite judge how awesome in the same way that someone climbing VS probably knows E7 is pretty awesome - just a totally different set of standards and benchmarks from anything I've experienced!

Well done Iain anyway, awesome effort...
ads.ukclimbing.com
mattrm - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

It's easy, go out, measure a mile and run it as fast as you can. You're fairly fit you should be able to do 7 minute miles no probs. If you can get to 6 minute miles, then imagine doing 26 of them back to back. 2:39 is 6 minute miling.

I can do steady 8 minute miles. But speeding up and maintaining it is very hard for me. I don't think I could really do 6 minutes just for 1 mile let alone more than 1.
maria85 - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM: Cheers, Only got back from Scotland last night so late post from me.

Last week's goals:
- 2 short runs - only one
- 2 wall sessions, one on ropes. only one, bouldering
- 2 core - find a youtube workout of a level to push me but not totally destroy me. tick & tick
- 2 fingerboard. Find some elastic to take some bodyweight only one, and tick
- Scotland this weekend - Lead a III. tick! (well, II/III, but felt hard to me!)
- 3 x bike to work - tick

Had a really good week, didn't do one run and one wall session as I was just too tired and conscious that I should rest up a bit before Scotland if I wasn't going to be shattered while up there. Loving the new bike, got out lots :-) Also achieved some smaller things (eg. sorting out the fingerboard elastic so I can actually spend some time on it with not quite full bodyweight).

M: Biked to work, and went for a 10km ride after work. Maybe 250m height gain total.
Core session - did the 20min youtube workout again and nearly got through it this time. Definitely the right level, once I knew what to expect!
T: Lunchtime run. 4.8km, 24mins. Went hard trying to top work's league (succeeded), knocked over 2 mins off my previous best for that circuit, just shows what you can do with a bit of effort. Hurt the next day though...
Evening Depot. Did a red (V5-7) in 3 goes, however the new blacks destroyed me and I failed on a couple, these are usually my warm up! Core after.
W: Biked to and from work, followed by a 45min x/c ride round Shipley Glen, about 9km or so.
T: Biked to and from work - home the long way via some singletrack :-)
Fingerboard session in evening, utilising an old inner tube... awesome, I could actually have a proper session at a more realistic level for me.
F: Rest.
S: Headed into Sneachda, climbed Spiral Gully. Was hoping to finish up the direct finish but it was melting fast so we stuck to the main line instead. Horribly soggy by the end of the day!
S: Sneachda again, Red Gully. I led the crux ice pitch, pretty happy with that! Much nicer weather than Sat, stayed warmer :-)

Goals for the rest of this week:
1 x wall session (roped)
2 x core
2 x fingerboard - work out a proper session to push myself
2 x bike to work with longer ways home
2 x runs, though knee is playing me up a bit, will see how it goes.
Either a long run or ride at the weekend, or both!
grubes - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to maria85:
Dont worry about the new blacks, they are nails. One of the staff who flashed most of the new red ciruict and cleaned the rest in an evening dropped a few first go! They are all on the V3 side of the grade (some felt V5 ish)
The blues are almost as demorilising than the purples. The last few sets have all been nails.

I am off to check out the new woods tonight at try a few more comp problems. Hope the woods are not another nails set
JimmyKay - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

Not sure whether I mentioned or not, but I am staying in the UK over Easter now as I'm going pump all my money in to a month long trip to South Africa in the summer.

Therefore I'll be spending a good 4days in Llandudno and another 4days in Yorkshire. If anyones keen for Malham/Kilnsey/York Grit or LPT/NW stuff let me know. (That'll be between 28/3 - 14/4)

Oh and Maria, I can think of much worse places to live... like B'ham¬!
grubes - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:
I am keen for easter weekend (30/3 till 1/4) happy to stay local (yorks/peak) or head to North wales.

Keen for all the stuff listed
biscuit - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to mattrm:
It is an amazing time. My best ever 1/2 marathon was 1hr18m which is pretty bang on 6m miles. I could never imagine doing it all again at that pace.

Hats off to the man !
mrchewy - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit: B;imey! I managed 4 miles at just over 6min miles once only - you're a decent runner yourself no doubt.
JimmyKay - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit:

You did a half in 1.18?!?! Bon!
maria85 - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes: Oooh, new woods? How'd you find them? Might have to pop down and check them out, they're my favourites...

Some of those blacks just seem ridiculous (for V2/3). Equally some of the blues, though others are fine. I gave up on most of the purples a while ago - everything just seemed really hard. Fingers crossed for the next re-set :-)

I wonder if walls generally make the circuits harder towards the end of the winter, figuring you should have been training hard all winter?! The Bingley wall seems the same. I don't boulder anywhere else regularly enough to notice.
maria85 - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: You're right... but it is a bit of a shock to the system having lived within spitting distance of 3000m+ mountains for years, Ilkley Moor doesn't quite compete! There is a lot going for it too though, I am counting my blessings both in the sense that there is a lot to do here that I want to concentrate on (ie. running, mtb-ing, trad) with less big-mountain distractions and logistics, and also in the sense that it is giving me a clearer idea of where I do/don't want to be long term.

Keen to have a play on some of the big yorks limestone at some point this summer, if anyone feels like having a weak-as-hell-and-intimidated-by-Malham belayer along for the ride :-)
grubes - on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to maria85: Sadly did not make it. Still feeling a bit jet lagged and by 4pm at work the thought of an hour drive in traffic made me fell a little ill (what a crap excuse).
I will head across friday now I think.
I love the woods. I like how skin friendly they are even with small holds. twitter said they will be V3-V6 this time.

I spoke to my mate who works and does some of the setting at the depot about the purple when they went up. He said they were set by steve dunning after he just got back from a hard climbing holiday and could not tell the difference between V4 and V7 at the time as he was just really strong.
They then seemed to follow suit with the rest of the sets.
Blacks are meant to be V1-V3 but most seem to be V3-5 with a few that feel about right.
Blues are meant to be V2-4 but some feel V5 ish and not that many feel v2 ish. I used several blues in my warm up on the last set but not this one.
biscuit - on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Aye 15 yrs or so ago.

I'm naturally a much better runner than a climber but i like climbing more :0(
Ally Smith on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:
> (In reply to ally smith)
>
> Where are you based? You seem to climb all over the place all the time!

I'm in Chester. There's a lack of real quality in the immediate vicinity, but loads of stuff within a 1/1.5 hour drive.

I've previously lived in the SW and Yorkshire, so have extra motivation to climb back in those areas to catch up with friends as well as try and tick off old projects.

I had a minor YYFY! moment last night. I stuck the undercut move on Trigger Cut and also worked out a new sequence on Lou Ferrino with removes the need for getting the temperamental heel hook to stick :-)
The Climbing Depot - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes:
Good points about the circuits getting harder! We agree that the purples are a bit tough.
The new blue circuit (getting set next Tuesday) will be the same grade as the old blacks and the blacks are now the same grade as blues!! if that makes any sense. Basically we are swapping them over.

We have loads of new holds arriving in the next couple of weeks so you guys should see a bit more variation and hopefully the sets will drop back into the correct grade boundaries.

Keep up the comments though - its good to see what we can do to improve things.

grubes - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to The Climbing Depot:
Thanks for the response and warning my mate has some blues she wants to finish off.
catt on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

Hey mate, if you've made the fairly rapid progress of going from the 2nd clip to the top, I don't think you'll have any technical problems with the bottom bit of Raindogs. But I'm completely with you on how intense it feels, and have been suitably spanked into submission just when I had gained a bit of belief on it... I think, yea all the holds are okay, the moves make sense, but as soon as I pull on to it I feel like someone has attached a 10kg vest to me!

I've got lots of free time in April, if you are in need of mid week partners I'll come join you!
Eagle River - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to catt:

Cool. I'm trying to build up some flexi-time so I can do more mid-week raids.

I'll be in touch...

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