/ recommendations for 2nd set of nuts...

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ralphio - on 03 Mar 2013
Hi. Currently climbing upto HS with a set of WC rocks and looking to start increasing my grade so wanted to get a second set of wires. I know the needlesport website recommends supplementing with a set off DMM wallnuts but just wanted people's opinion. Climb climb grit, a bit f lakes/ Wales.

Thanks
cyberpunk - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to ralphio: I would recommend a set of DMM offsets from 1-8.
neuromancer - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to cyberpunk:

Offsets come in 7-11. I doubt you'd need the brass offsets below about e2, but ymmv. I'd invest in a few more cams or torque nuts.
Robert Durran - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to ralphio:

Another set of Rocks. Wallnuts are the work of the devil.
ralphio - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to neuromancer: forgot to mention, already got 1,2 and 3 4CU and a set of torque nuts.
In reply to ralphio: DMM offsets, superb bits of kit.
jayrenegade - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to ralphio:

I'd just get the set of wallnuts. I think the offsets are a bit pricey and you don't get so much for your money. Plus I find they can be a bit more difficult to remove.
victim of mathematics - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to ralphio:

I don't understand why everyone loves the DMM offsets to much. They're great where they go in, but I find way less placements for them than standard nuts. I'd go with some more wallnuts. I wouldn't buy a whole set though, I don't bother with doubles about a 7 and I've never missed them. I do, however have 3 or more size 3 and 4 nuts.
Muel - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to ralphio:

I'd get a set of wallnuts, as Rocks are rubbish. :P
the power - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to ralphio: another vote for dmm offsets.there the only nuts I bother with now climbing peak grit
IPPurewater on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to ralphio: I use a set of Rocks and a set of Wallnuts. They complement each other.
The Ex-Engineer - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to ralphio: Another vote for a set of DMM Alloy offsets. Although you would then need to consider extra something for sizes 1-3 on top.

Equally you wouldn't amiss with DMM Wallnuts in sizes 1-6 or 1-8. As previously mentioned, there is generally no need for doubles above size 8.
TRip - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to ralphio:

Any mixture of Rocks, Wallnuts or Alloy Offsets would suit you fine.

Personally I might get Rocks 1-4, Alloy Offets 8 & 9 (these are equivalent of Rock 5 and 6) and Wallnuts 7 & 8.

The reason for getting the Wallnuts in the larger sizes is they are wider and therefore more stable in placements than Rocks.

I would avoid buying, BD Stoppers, Metoluis, Zero G or indeed any other wires, because whilst they work adequately, they aren't nearly as good, or as strong, as those mentioned above.

HTH
beardy mike - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to ralphio: Funny isn't it... when they were HB offsets, people didn't know about them and you hardly ever saw them, despite IMO having been better than the current DMM ones. They seemed to seat better and I prefered the solid sideways profile rather than having round holes. Hey ho. I think they really come into their own in limestone and granite - the flaredness of the cracks mean they get eaten. However I'd say the mid to small sizes are the best... the 2 largest sizes I don't find they're much cop, mut maybe thats me/the sort of rock I usually climb on.
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HB1 - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to mike kann: an undercut hold broke on a Millstone E1 and I shot first upwards, then down. Fast! Saved by the only two nuts I could get in the route. One was an HB3, the other an HB1. Good to have them both, I thought :-)

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