/ james pearsons video?
presume that when he falls off and the belayer legs it backwards more rope is taken in
rather than just changing the angle to a higher runner
watch it again
Or at least I think that's the reason...
That's a fair explanation of how it usually works to prevent groundfalls but in this case it seems like the exact opposite.
With the gear well back and a rigid belay any fall would see him arcing and slamming uncomfortably into the rock, so he's increasing the dynamic belay effect by asking his belayer to walk inwards during the fall arrest. That way not only will the direction of impact be more vertical (i.e. tangential to the face) but in this case it's likely he'll also clear the bulge too and land in he overhanging section below it.
Call me cynical, but I just assumed it was because the video is clearly sponsored by Wild Country. Note the extended butt shots near the start, clearly displaying the Wild Country logo on his harness. Those look a lot better with a rack of large, brightly coloured friends jingling around! Then, having included those shots it would be weird if he didn't even use them...
No, I don't begrudge them at all. I enjoyed the video, even watched the bit showing off the harness at the end after the climbing had finished.
Somebody asked why the cams were placed at the beginning, despite JP clearly not needing protection for those moves, and I suggested maybe there was a commercial motive. I wasn't making a judgement
> Somebody asked why the cams were placed at the beginning, despite JP clearly not needing protection for those moves, and I suggested maybe there was a commercial motive. I wasn't making a judgement
Placing gear near the ground for commercial motives? I'm afraid your just plain wrong.
I would have said that the lower piece was placed so that if the force of the fall took his belayer off her feet she would not be carried to high.
Don't know if this is the case but I have done this in the past when faced with a long fall potential and a small female belayer.
Oh and its no good saying tie them down they need to be able to move while belaying.
Slight side note, is the giant cam common practice on Elder Crack now? Must admit doing it as a early E2 with a wire poked quite low down (But as high as I could reach) at the back of the crack certainly spiced it up. I remember thinking I would struggle to reverse the moves I'd made to the good hold, and once I had it, looking at the fall potential thinking I hope I can do the next bit!!
Top respect to JP but I felt a bit robbed seeing an E10 climber putting the giant cam on the E2 bit.
> Top respect to JP but I felt a bit robbed seeing an E10 climber putting the giant cam on the E2 bit.
Yeah, but he wasn't using it to protect the E2 was he.
Yes he was. The crux of the E2 is well before the moves out left on the arete. Its a classic tick worth checking out.
Not to worry, I do get it re sponsorship, and actually having the cam available, why wouldn't you use it.
Not expecting him to think that at all, just comparing my own experience being pumped and pulling through the buldge in a very committed situation.
Looks like you want to break into E2, give it a go, with or without the cam its a good route!
Having been there at the time to take pics for Climber you are absolutely correct. Caro was indeed instructed to move in if James fell, hence hopefully missing the bulge and potential ankle snapping fall.
Hope you're well?
> Yes he was. The crux of the E2 is well before the moves out left on the arete. Its a classic tick worth checking out.
Oh I see, the early big cams.
> Not expecting him to think that at all, just comparing my own experience being pumped and pulling through the buldge in a very committed situation.
> Looks like you want to break into E2, give it a go, with or without the cam its a good route!
It's hardly hidden esoterica, not sure why you keep assuming nobody's done it apart from you.
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