/ Edelrid Apus super skinny or Beal cobra 2 half ropes??

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leeoftroy - on 04 Mar 2013
So I am looking to buy a pair of ropes now that I am climbing more trad stuff and learning that doubling my sport rope just isn't the way forward. I am looking at either Beal cobra 2 or Edelrid Apus. The Edelrid seems very impressive with it's smaller diameter (just 7.8mm) and weight but does this smaller diameter cause any problems? Any info on either rope appreciated.
Thanks
AlanLittle - on 04 Mar 2013
In reply to leeoftroy:

I used the Apus in the Dolomites last summer, mostly as twins but occasionally as halves for the odd wandering pitch. For that purpose I was very impressed with them: light, super handling, very tangle- and kink-free, don't feel particuarly skinny / un-reassuring for *occasional* use as halves.

But ...

... mostly twin / occasional half rope use is exactly what they're designed & good for. I would say they would definitely be too skinny to be confidence-inpring / durable as full time half ropes for uk trad.
leeoftroy - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to AlanLittle: I'm mostly climbing trad in the UK so I think your advice has helped a little to make my decision toward the Beal offering. Confidence inspiring ropes are important at my current level!
Many thanks.
AlanLittle - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to leeoftroy:

Glad to be of help. The Apus is a very good rope for its specialist niche, but that niche is lightweight alpine not uk-style trad.
mrchewy - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to leeoftroy: If you were thinking of skinnier ropes, I own a pair of Edelrid 8mm Merlins and would say they're excellent half ropes if you can find a set. I paid less than Ģ200 last year. Handle well, less stretch than expected and I was happy enough to use just the one of them as a single back in January on Scottish IV 4 and some easy trad. Fallen on them a few times now and I'd be happy to take a big whipper on them.
I'd say get proper half ropes whatever you get tho - I got these in 60m length as they weigh a bit less than 8.5mm ropes obviously and that extra ten metres has come in handy on the Cromlech and in winter.

Happy shopping.

LJC - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to leeoftroy: Not used these specific 7.8s, but have used Metolius ones which had a horrible tendency to knot and tangle because they were just so soft and skinny.

My usual halfs are cobras and they seem to handle much better, but that could be due to the make as well as the extra thickness. For the majority of UK climbing, unless you are going into the mountains, the approaches are so short I wouldn't be worrying about a little extra weight in order to have a more robust rope which will last longer (written a brand new cobra off before with very little effort, 7.8 could have gone straight through).
TRip - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to leeoftroy:

If you are buying ropes mainly for trad, you really can't go wrong with a pair of 50m 8.5mm ropes.

Unless I lived north of the border and was going winter climbing every weekend I would avoid skinny (8mmish) 60m ropes as they won't last as long, are excessively long, are more expensive, easier to get tangled, heavier and are more likely to get chopped on a sharp edge.

I've climbed on most major crags in North Wales and the Lakes and never struggled to climb or descend off a route with 50m ropes.

If you are just rock climbing and have no alpine or winter ambitions you could save a bit of money and buy ropes without a dry treatment. However if you can afford dry treatment it is probably worth it as your rope will stay nicer for longer.

I currently have a pair of DMM Prophets which I really like. I have also owned Mammut Genesis Ropes and Edelrid Kestrels.

If I were you I would shop around online and buy the cheapest pair of 50m 8.5mm ropes from any of the big six brands: Mammut, DMM, Edelrid, Edelweiss, Beal and Stirling.

HTH
edinburgh_man on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to leeoftroy:

The Apus are designed for Alpine and Mountaineering primarily - the Beal Cobra are better suited to general use / trad IMO.

Although the Apus are very light weight they do have a considerably higher impact force when compared to other half ropes e.g:

Edelrid Apus impact force: 8.8kN (Double)

Beal Cobra II impact force: 4.85 - 4.90 kN (Double)

Something to consider.

jimtitt - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to 7bforever:
Where do you get that from? The Edelrid site gives 6.7kN. Not that Iīd buy them as I use Tendon Master 7.8s which are nice and light, slip and tangle like mad and wouldnīt be my choice for daily cragging either!
edinburgh_man on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to jimtitt:

According to the Edlerid website
- 6.7 kn is the impact force when they are used as twin ropes.
- 10.3 kn! is the impact force when they are used as double ropes.

According to the Banana fingers website
- 6.7 kn is the impact force when they are used as twin ropes.
- 8.8 kn is the impact force when they are used as double ropes.
jimtitt - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to 7bforever:
Admittedly they write it confusingly but itīs 6.7 as a half rope and 10.3 as a twin which is how their dealers in Germany list it, they also get the falls the right way round. Are Bananafingers a reliable place for information on climbing ropes? :-)
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edinburgh_man on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to jimtitt:

I assume that they simply list the information which is provided by the manufacturers - so I would expect so. Having said that I think its always worth checking the manufacturers website to avoid any misprints / mistakes if the information is important.

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