UKC

Back on the 5th January 2013 Martin Cathrow successfully completed his project at St Loy, Cornwall.


This climb is centred around the superb arete and the old existing aid route of Gloy.
This line has seen much attention over the last 30 years but had yet to see a free ascent. Starting on the...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67849

In reply to UKC News:

Well played, sir. I remember sheltering from the rain in that cave at the bottom once, and thinking this really ought to be done, but I don't think I've ever been back to the crag. Easier thought than done anyway, I dare say.

jcm

In reply to UKC News: Bloody hell that looks nails! Great effort. Good to see Cornwall in the news for once. I love St Loy, such a beautiful place to be on a sunny day.

In reply to UKC News:
Always great to see some Cornwall action. Great effort, the granite down there is immaculate as well.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Seems a bit of a strange line, actually, rereading it. You seem to climb up the arête, then into the crack of Gloy, then back on to the arête. I'm sure that's the easiest way when you're on it and makes sense, but it seems a bit disappointing not to climb either the arête all the way or the crack all the way. Bit like The Groove at Cratcliffe, I guess; just doesn't climb like that.

jcm

In reply to UKC News: Good effort, looks ace. Bags full of potential at this cliff.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I tried the arete in the left side (facing in) only many years ago but never managed to link it all together; it very hard. Never thought to move round the arete in to Gloy. Good effort Martin for figuring this out.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

JCM, I climbed this about a month ago, and it definatley is the most obvious line. The start could be climbed direct which would be quite alot harder, porrsibly even a solo, as clipping gear or placing gear is nails. The finish goes back onto the arete about 3ft from the top, which is the nicest (easier) direction, rather than going up the end of the crack which is flared and minging.

In reply to El3ctroFuzz:

Agreed Tom, definitely makes sense the way Martin and you did it. You cruised it mate!

Good job Martin and good job Tom.