/ ice axe lanyards

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moneykat - on 05 Mar 2013
Hi All, I've just had the misfortune to lose an ice axe. I was using a BD spinner leash at the time. I had put the tethered axes into a snowy groove so I could use my hands for a rocky move. I think the axe fell out of the groove and must've knocked the small wire gate krab that comes with the spinner leash open and away the axe went. Has anyone else had any problems with the spinner leash, or can anyone recommend a better leash? I can't afford to lose any more tools!

BTW was on Dorsal arete at the time and the axe would have fallen into left forked gully. If any extremely kind person finds it please get in touch, it would be hugely appreciated. Lost on Sat 2nd March.
NottsRich on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to moneykat: Was the krab clipped direct to the axe, or to a cord loop tied onto the axe?
Gwilymstarks on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to moneykat:

There was a chap at Glen Nevis YHA on Sat eve who had found an axe and I am sure he said in SCNL. He said he would check UKC. I would change the title of this thread so he can see it if he looks.

David Barratt - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to moneykat:Oh dear. Sounds very unlucky. I keep meaning to get leashes but am playing it dangerous at the moment. Did Dorsal arete a few weeks back. great route. might be worth sticking this in the lost and found forum as well if you haven't already.
mrchewy - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to moneykat: I can recommend the spinner leash to be honest. a week or so ago, I had one axe placed well in neve and the other laying on a ledge whilst using my hands for a move - took a fall and was caught by the one good axe. The leash stretched fully but held my lard arse. Utterly amazed but glad I waxed the cash on the BDs now.
I have mine clipped into a bit of 5mm cord, so no metal to metal issues.
moneykat - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to NottsRich: The krab was clipped direct to the axe
moneykat - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to Gwilymstarks: Hi, thanks for that. It's worth a try.
Damo on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to moneykat:
> Has anyone else had any problems with the spinner leash, or can anyone recommend a better leash?

Apparently it's an issue: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com.au/2013/02/another-critical-look-at-ice-tools-and.html

moneykat - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: That sounds a great back-up. Where do you actually put the cord?
mrchewy - on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to moneykat: I have Grivel Horns on my axes (Matrix Lights), so it's through the hole on them. When I was learning to climb I asked why you don't clip a krab into a krab. So they did just that, then twisted them lightly and they came apart. I'd be tempted to put cord through the hole in the end of the axe even if I didn't use Horns - that may have stopped your axe disappearing down the gully.
NottsRich on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to moneykat: It would be worth having a small flexible loop to clip the krabs on to, to prevent them twisting themselves off.
iksander on 05 Mar 2013
In reply to moneykat: I sawed the little crabs off and used campnanos instead
In reply to moneykat: On my BD axes I managed to thread 4mm cord through the bit midway up the shaft that the clipper leash used clip onto. This is a great spot to clip into as you can use either end of the axe without the lanyard getting in the way. I have tried to get DMM interested in making a bolt on clip in point that would retrofit to almost any axe - maybe they will one day. Meanwhile, a jubilee clip, cord and some griptape would do.

Also by clipping into a loop of cord, wiregates can't unclip themselves through twisting. The problem with using screwgates is that they are heavier and can freeze up. Larksfooting a loop of cord/tape round the axe - I've not tried this but the Grivel Double Spring Leash is available without krabs at a very cheap price and it would be easy to make your own loops.

Personally I also clip the other end into a small sling that has a waist clip-in point that clips in to the harness and a chest clip-in point for the other end of the lanyards - I find this stops the lanyards getting tangled in the gear on your harness so much.
moneykat - on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Stephen Reid: Hi Stephen, thanks for your reply. I think a small loop of cord between the axe and the wiregate is the way to go. So simple...why didn't I think of it earlier!
deanr - on 06 Mar 2013
pebbles - on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Stephen Reid: perhaps the obvious answer is that there is a hole in the market for someone to make a properly load bearing lanyard that will take a fall
David Barratt - on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to pebbles: agreed
ads.ukclimbing.com
Tim Sparrow on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Stephen Reid: In the "old days" of the '90s (!) when axe lanyards were just lengths of cord attached to your harness it was quite popular (among the limited few I climbed with that is) to have a loop of bungy round your neck with a small non gear crab clipping the two cords up and out of your way. It worked to a degree but with leashes too, a right twisted mess was possible, notably when taking slings off head / shoulder.
Wonder if it would work with modern spring leashes?
Not really needed though, seems to work fine without.

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