In reply to sip a cup:
Lots of discussion of this on UKB.
'Sasquatch' provided a good summary:
'Lopez Protocol:
Cobbled together from various posts on her blog, the following protocol seems to be what she espouses.
Pre-requisites:
1. You've been climbing for more than 2 years
2. You can hang an 18mm edge for at least 35 seconds
If you meet these pre-requisites, then the next step is to test how much weight you can add to reach a maximum hang time of 13 seconds on a 14-20mm edge (choose based on your ability).
The workout:
Warm-up 10-15min
• Warm up Moving the joints of upper body, shoulders, elbows, neck and fingers;
• Following with 2-3 easy traverses for 2 to 5 minutes
• Followed by 2-3 boulder problems with increasing difficulty; or several progressive sets on easy holds of the hangboard if we are at home
Progressive sets: 10-15min
• Hang 10 sec with 40-50% of the total added weight. 3-4 min rest.
• Hang 10 sec with 80% of the total added weight. 3-4 min rest.
• Hang 10 sec with 90% of the total added weight. 3-4 min rest.
Main Workout: 10-20min
• Hang 10 sec with max weight. 3-4 min rest.
• Repeat 2-4 more times.
That’s all – This workout takes in general 30-45 minutes total from start to finish.
The day before is always a rest day for fingers and pulling muscles. It is OK to climb or train other aspects than max finger strength later that day, or the next day.'