/ Good last HS in the Peak

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Ramblin dave - on 06 Mar 2013
As a complement to the other thread...

So "first VS in the peak" is a fairly standard request - looking for something well protected and fairly soft in the grade to push through the grade barrier on.

But what about the opposite? Are there peak gritstone HS routes so gnarly that after a couple of them, getting on to a normal VS will come as a welcome relief?

Struggles, gibber-fests and outright sandbags are all welcome. More points if the route has an even lower grade. But I will restrict it to routes that are actually satisfying (in some sense) to lead rather than just manky.

I'm restricting it to the peak partly to avoid getting flooded with everything at Swanage, everything in Yorkshire, everything in Scotland etc...
deacondeacon - on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Ramblin dave: well verandah buttress tends to crop up on these types of threads at hvd 5b. Although I reckon it's more hs 4c or possibly 5a.
Jim Malo - on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Ramblin dave: How about Outlook Crack at the Plantation or Pilgrims Progress at Castle Naze. They both spring to mind as being troublesome for the grade.
Jon Stewart - on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Jim Malo:
> (In reply to Ramblin dave) How about Outlook Crack

Another vote for this one. I think Norse Corner Climb is solid VS too.
Simon Caldwell - on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Ramblin dave:
I was going to suggest Crack and Corner at the Roaches, but find that it's still only Severe. One of these days I'll manage to climb the bstard.

P.S. Excluding "Scottish VS", everything in Scotland is overgraded ;-)
Monk - on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Ramblin dave:

Byne's Route at Stanage. I've not climbed it for almost 10 years, but I distinctly remember it to be quite challenging at a time when I was breaking into HVS/E1 territory.
Babika - on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Ramblin dave:
Scarlett's Chimney HS4a * at Rivelin.
One of those rare routes which might actually be easier for the short..
Jim Lancs - on 06 Mar 2013
Janker's Crack at Froggatt wakes you up if you think "I'll just nip up here to finish the day - it's only hard severe'.
andic - on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Ramblin dave:

The marmoset on crow chin (thuggish)

Amazon Crack at Burbage N (now VS on here)

Spider Crack at Burbage N

Monk - on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Jim Lancs:
> Janker's Crack at Froggatt wakes you up if you think "I'll just nip up here to finish the day - it's only hard severe'.

Good call! That is a meaty route that had me floundering on second once. I'd climbed a Font7a problem the same day...
Paul Hy - on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Ramblin dave: there's two i can think of:
Silver Crack 4c at Froggatt and Curved Crack 4b at Plantation both very similar in fact.
Postmanpat on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> (In reply to Jim Malo)
> [...]
>
> Another vote for this one. I think Norse Corner Climb is solid VS too.

Agree. It is V diff in my original guide!! (1970 reprint of 1964 guide)

EeeByGum - on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Ramblin dave: Not sure about HS's but The Punk at VS 4b that traverses the crack line above Bawl's Crawl is a right old knuckle shredder!
deepsoup - on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Jim Malo:
> How about Outlook Crack at the Plantation

Caught me by surprise a bit that one, a tad harder than it looks. :o)

Additive Chimney. I found it utterly desperate. Turns out I did it facing the wrong way, facing the other way it's merely a bit of a sandbag. Unfortunately now I forget, which was which?

Fat Man's Misery at Burbage South is HS isn't it? Pretty tough for everyone but the offwidth freaks!
Double Knee Bar - on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Ramblin dave: crack and corner at The Roaches. Gets S but everyone knows it's a hard HS really.
Double Knee Bar - on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Monk: yeah Jankers Crack is a corker. Solid HS but so awkward.
Ramblin dave - on 06 Mar 2013
In reply to Double Knee Bar:
> (In reply to Ramblin dave) crack and corner at The Roaches. Gets S but everyone knows it's a hard HS really.

Right Hand Route seems similar - getting an "I beg your pardon?" S4b in the definitive...

But I'm going off topic on my own thread, there.

I haven't lead a proper grit VS yet, so I don't know if it qualifies, but about the scariest HS I've done was Verandah Pillar at Stanage - it looks like a classic nice little HS with a difficult start followed by a well protected jug haul up the flake, but then you get to the flake and find that it's neither well protected nor juggy.

Cleft wall route one seemed pretty desperate when I seconded it too, although that's maybe because I didn't "get" grit at that point. I can imagine a lot of technically harder routes feeling a bit more relaxing, though.

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