/ NW Conditions?
-Liathach: George, possibly Poachers and Umbrella Falls, R/H Trinity Gully
-Beinn Dearg: Penguin Gully and very little else above II
-An Teallach: 1978 route may be ok, but I had a look a couple of weeks ago and it was very thin, it may have improved since then. Nothing else above II in condition.
Here are a few pics and reports from my blog: http://www.applemountaineering.co.uk/blog/page/2/
and from others: http://pjmountains.blogspot.co.uk/ http://howlingmist.blogspot.co.uk/
Torridon wet and windy at moment.
I did George earlier in week - but not a lot in condition other than low grade gullies.I am heading across to The Ben for nore reliable conditions
Hope this helps
Does anyone know how wintery the Northern Pinnacles of An Teallach or the Traverse of A' Chioch on Beinn Bhann are looking at the moment?
Nowt like the North West is there?
Poachers is in decent nick and Salmon Leap is doable but looked a bit thin for the given grade.
Looking white. Cold all over and currently snowing lightly at road level in various places across the north-west.
Anyone been in the Fannaichs the last few days?
Hope that helps Martin
Has anyone been into Beinn Bhan recently? Any info on March Hare's / silver tear etc. would be great?
Have been out the country, but hearing of storms back home.... has much snow fallen in the NW, or is it just the east, and will it have consolidated at all ?
hoping to hit an teallach later in the week once the winds settle down, any recent info on conditions would be greatly appreciated!
We fitted threads to both routes, though we rapped across to the first belay on Poachers, (after finishing Salmon Leap), and used it to get to the Corrie, as the initial groove on Salmon Leap was very snowy and belays difficult to find. Very little exposed rock on both routes so used mainly screws. The ice is sometimes brittle on the surface, and can dinnerplate under tool placements, so clear the surface crud before placing screws.
There is evidence of some small avalanches off some of the terraces in the Corrie, though nothing recent. The debris on the snow under Poachers has all come from people knocking stuff off Poachers & Salmon Leap.
Once you find the approach path up to the Corrie from the main track, it will take you straight to the Corrie and is very solid underfoot. We got up without using crampons, but found them essential on the descent due to the many small frozen burns on the hillside.
Good conditions and safe snow on Beinn Dearg near Ullapool. The mountain was mobbed with 3 teams on the hill. You can imagine my shock! A team made an ascent of Emerald gully with a difficult last hard pitch. Another team did one of the other gully lines, but i didn't see which. Lots of footprints heading over towards Penguin Gully from recent ascents also.
OUr turf route was mostly good, but some turf was a bit dry. A lot of snow has blown off the cliffs and what was still there is reasonably well consolodated.
Hope this helps someone contemplating queing on the Ben or Wading in Corries.
Worried about the ethics of a second ascent of MacLeod's Snotter?
Then why not go for Cunningham & Nisbet's Snotter instead!
Liathach Coireag Dubh Beag today Monday: Ice in Footless Gully looks complete. The 1st pitch, where we took the face left of the chimney, was pretty tough with either thin or often snow-covered poor ice, and warranted VI 6 in itself. -2degC at 7am in the valley and -6degC at 9am in the corrie.
Skye was great at the weekend and I completed a winter traverse of the ridge with rich: http://www.masterplan-photography.co.uk/2013/04/winter-traverse-cuillin-ridge/
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