/ Easy Multi-pitch climbs in chedder

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
mini247tom on 07 Mar 2013
Hi all,
I'm looking at going to Cheddar in april this year, this time i would like to do some climbs with real high to them.
I've done some very easy Multi-pitch sport climbs in Belgium bit never anything to difficult , I'm looking for some good starting out Multi-pitch or just climbs at height to enjoy and get used to higher climbing.
Any ideas which climbs to start on?
beardy mike - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to mini247tom: What do you call easy, and do you realise there is a ban in place on much of the multipitch climbing in the gorge from next week onwards? In all honesty you'd be better off looking at the Wye Valley and Avon Gorge as Cheddar is mainly harder routes with only a few in the Vdiff - VS bracket.
Oujmik - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to mini247tom: I could end up sounding stupid here (quite likely as I've only been there once) but I don't think there is any multi-pitch sport at Cheddar. I think all the really high routes are Trad?
dale1968 - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to Oujmik: nah lots of sport multi pitch; castles in the sand and others
dale1968 - on 07 Mar 2013
beardy mike - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to Oujmik: Castles made of sand, Space tourist, Stone Cold Fever, and a few 2 pitch routes eg goats are us, mainly in pinnacle bay.

And to the OP, sorry, I missed the sport bit. In that case you're a bit stuffed as I believe it's mainly out of bounds soon. Wye, or Avon don't have much sport... you could always learn to trad climb?
Kemics - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to mike kann:

craaaap. Coronation Street is nearly out of season!?

Is the last day 15th of March?
Ian Parsons - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to mike kann:

> And to the OP, sorry, I missed the sport bit.

To be fair to yourself, the OP referred to having done some multipitch sport in Belgium, but didn't actually specify that he was looking for sport at Cheddar; I rather got the impression he was after easy multipitch anything, in which case your Avon and Wye suggestion is spot on.
GridNorth - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to mini247tom: You need to define "easy". Avon, Wye Valley etc. are limestone and limestone does not lend itself to the lower grades and those that do exist are polished. Added to this the Avon Gorge is notoriously bold in character. IMO most routes below VS on limestone are poor but there are of course a few exceptions. North Wales and the Lakes are a better option for multi-pitch climbing.
beardy mike - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to GridNorth: I think you're rather overstating the case there. Yes, some of the really easy honeypot routes in avon are polished, but the runouts aren't THAT bad as the climbing is pretty moderate. And in Wye there's stacks to go at with some pretty decent routes below VS. For example Zelda, not polished, decent gear, hs. lefthand route and righthand route, both excellent and HS. Moth and Papillion, the split, Central rib, Joes route, all at Wintours, then Unknown Buttress (although thats full VS) Morpheus, Sleepwalk and night mare, Clarion (bit of a runout on the first easy section, but well protected at the crux, Central rib (again run out in places but gear where you need it) and Giants cave buttress... they're all good routes. Sure you can go to North Wales, but the weather can be poor and both venues dry fast. And if it rains here, chances are its not in Cornwall or on the south coast. In North Wales, its scrambling or tremadog or Gogarth, with the latter hardly qualifying as easy.
beardy mike - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to Kemics: Yep. BOOO HISS. I've hardly gotten down there this year...
mini247tom on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to mike kann:
Thanks Guys,
Yes it was Sport routes i was looking for, I can do a little Trad but still working on being comfortable with it.
I think I'll take a look at Avon Gorge and Wye and see what i find, I'll just stick to Single pitch on Cheddar.
I'm going to be based in Dorset for a week just between portland and Cheddar so i'll be visiting both.

Thanks
Tom
beardy mike - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to mini247tom: Ah OK. Well I believe you are out of luck in that case, although thinking about a conversation I had yesterday with a buddy, he pointed out that Sunset buttress is OK under the summer regime. If this is correct then Space Tourist would still be in. I'd have to check, but it's a cracking route. The last pitch is a monster! 6a+6b+6b+ any use?
beardy mike - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to mike kann: Yep... looks like it's in from the logbooks... http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=36592
ads.ukclimbing.com
The Ivanator - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to mike kann: Goats R Us at 6b, 6a+ is also available after the 15th March (Summer Season route). Castles Made of Sand and Stone Cold Fever are out of bounds though.

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.