Thanks, that's an incredible video, the text below is also done very well and well worth reading.
MRT got there in 30 minutes, impressive. Hope the climber recovers fully and soon.
Some of the comments below the article were quite harsh if you ask me. Yes he should have been in a more protected spot if there was someone climbing above him but sometimes it's just not that simple.
It is that simple. If you climb under folk and stuff gets knocked off (especially ice) then you run the risk of getting hit.
> Some of the comments below the article were quite harsh if you ask me.
The guy that says "self-arrest should have been a relatively simple affair" has clearly never tried to do one on steep, hard snow.
That looked like it hurt!
On the plus side, he managed to shoot much more interesting footage than he intended to!
> It is that simple. If you climb under folk and stuff gets knocked off (especially ice) then you run the risk of getting hit.
+1. See Will Gadd's blog on this also. Why people can not get their heads round this is beyond me.
Not being under someone climbing ice is a given and definitely not a good place to be.
In regards to it being that simple there are many factors which might have made him go into the fall line but I was in referring to the whole situation in general. Eg; not being able to arrest, not having both axes in hand and people speculating to his level of experience.
looks like the video got pulled or has technical issues
watched it earlier though and aye well scary
I remember climbing the Curtain with a friend and some guy turned up behind us ready to solo it. He asked us to not knock any ice down which caused a rage from my friend. She said that he would be bombarded by ice if climbing under us. For some reason he didn't seem to understand us.
Isn't it just a question of saturation? In the UK good conditions and good routes and limited opportunities for most people mean that routes almost inevitably get mobbed and people put up with it because they don't have much choice.
Different story in the Rockies where you have thousands of routes in condition for months at a time.
Seems to have been taken down for some reason...
you were the 3rd person to link it here on ukc
and the BMC put it on facebook so i wouldn't worry !
I may be wrong but I'm wondering whether this has been taken down either due to intensely hostile media interest, or out of sensitivity to yesterdays fatality in Glencoe. Maybe both.
It was getting shared left right and centre on Facebook. Maybe a bandwidth issue.
BMC statement from Facebook, so possibly you're right:
"Sorry, the vid was taken off for now. We will repost next week."
> Different story in the Rockies where you have thousands of routes in condition for months at a time.
There are thousands of routes in Scotland too! But almost everyone still honeypots towards the usual suspects..
But not your good self Jamie.
Bleating? Didn't realise that my post came across that way, thought I was just trying to start a discussion. But some on here will always assume confrontation as the default.
Elsewhere on the site
Climbing as a discipline offers plentiful metaphors for tackling life's obstacles - bravery, courage, climbing to... Read more
This streamlined, midweight thermal layer has an incredibly speedy moisture wicking ability and dries ultra fast if it gets... Read more
In tonight's Friday Night Video, we see Alex Honnold soloing Heaven 5.12d in Yosemite Valley. The route starts 3000ft above the... Read more
The B.D.V. — short for Black Diamond Vertical — jacket and pants are Black Diamond’s most versatile climbing... Read more
October 21, 2014 – Textile Exchange, a global nonprofit dedicated to sustainability in the apparel and textile industry,... Read more