/ UKC Fit Club week 312

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Ali - on 10 Mar 2013
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (310) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=540835

Posters:
AJM - good progress on the van! Sometimes life gets in the way of training for a time, but sounds like you're maintaining fitness so you shouldn't be losing anything
JimmyKay - good work on T crack - always good motivation to get a project ticked :-)
IainRUK - congratulations on the win and a new PB to boot! Very impressive. Must be looking good for the 100k
Jamming Dodger - how are you getting on with the goals? Maybe need to include some climbing sessions if you're looking to get to 7a...
Kevster - enjoy Scotland - hope the weather stays good and looking forward to hearing what you get done
leon - how did you get on this week? Hope you managed to fit a bit more in and you've got rid of the illness
Sankey - agree with AJM about consenting though seem to remember peak 7as being fairly polished too - there's one at Rubicon (can't remember name) which is steep and fairly doable I think?
Exile - good week considering you knew work would be busy - always difficult to balance family and training but you seem to be doing a good job of it!
Ian Bell - argghh! Nightmare on the injury - hope its better now and you can get another trip booked in soon :-)
Joughton - looks like you had a great week in Spain Jake - were you deliberately focusing on onsighting or did it just turn out that way? Good work on the first aid course - always good if they make it a bit more realistic - the best course I did ended in a multiple casualty triage situation in an abandoned railways tunnel in the dark!
biscuit - hope the weather improved for you - always frustrating when it gets in the way... have you thought about joining a swimming/triathlon club or getting some swim coaching? Will def help with motivation and improving technique...
NMN - sounds like you made the most of what time you had - good effort - working late always takes it out of me
pork pie girl - good effort - mileage will pay off and I'm constantly impressed at how motivated you are to get stuff done, even if you're not feeling great. Have you done Rose Coronary or Frankenstein? Both nicer routes than consenting (and I don't like Puddlejumper for some reason) and you'd tick them quick
mattrm - sounds a better week - always nice to get out in the hills. Hope the toe gets better soon - must be frustrating
Daniel Heath - I wouldn't necessarily say climbing E7 clean is weak but I know what you mean :-) If its working for what you want now then that's the main thing - and now you know skyhooks work! :-S
deacondeacon - Nice to have so many days out! Time on the crag def beats training if you can do it :-)
mrchewy - but first you need to get better! It's crap but there is no point exercising if you're sick - you;ll just prolong things. Hope you're feeling better and can get more done this week
Nomics4sale - awesome work on the 7a flash in Spain - impressed! SS does feel desperate but I think its because its sequency and hard on the skin...
ally smith - Awesome work on Hatch Life. I think sometimes you can underestimate how hard you tried when ticking a route and how much it takes out of you - I would beat yourself up about it!
grubes - hope car crash not too bad? Work trips aways always hard - try and get back on the training this week
Eagle River - good work on Tremalo - keeping my fingers crossed for good weather in April! I have seen many people repeatedly fall off the last move on Raindogs on lead so I totally get what you say about how far off it feels! But all progress is good!
seankenny - rest, get better and psyched for more training this week!
kylieo - sounds like you're making some good improvements - keep up the good work
DoctorU - Like the Bagpuss idea :-) Hope you manage to get a bit more done this week
Luke Owens - wow, exciting news about the new route - nothing like a first ascent for motivation!
maria85 - great week - well done. I remember doing Red Gully years ago (when I did winter climbing) and loved it!


Ali - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:

2013 plan:
Jan-mid Feb - Continue with current indoor volume and try and get at least two weekends (or days of weekends) in sport climbing. Tick a couple of 7as, or one 7a and a 6c onsight/flash. Run at least twice a week for up to an hour. FAIL :-(
mid Feb - beg March - have a super fab time in NZ :o) BIG HUMOUNGOUS TICK!
March-May - Focus on building up running fitness and navigation skills for orienteering - run at least twice a week, with one of these being over an hour. Climbing wise, work on onsighting ability in 6s and getting back into the feel of trad with 1 or 2 weekends away.
June - September - Focus on trad climbing, getting out at weekends and building up to onsight E2. Maintain strength by bouldering indoors during week. Maintain running fitness and work on navigation if possible. September/October-end year - Focus on onsighting and quick redpoints in Kalymnos, possibly try and get a 7b project ticked. Try and get a 7a flash and some 6c onsights. Do DNA. For remainder of year get back up to strength and focus on repointing. If I can get Something Stupid and Empire done that would be a bonus

Nothing much to report on the exercise front other than about a month off - getting fit again will be painful! Had a totally fantastic trip to NZ though - we were super lucky with the weather and managed to fit loads in, though there are so many places I want to go back and spend longer. Exercise wise did a few walks (including a 27.5km mountain day), two very short runs and a play on a few boulders, so nothing to write home about. If anyone is interested in the slightest I kept a blog about were we went and what we go up to - http://averybusylife.blogspot.co.uk/

Got back Friday morning and have been battling with jetlag. Went to BMF yesterday and joined in the blues, so felt easy physically but felt totally wasted generally. Woke up just after midnight last night/this morning and haven't slept since so suspect my climbing session this afternoon won't be very productive! And my body keeps wanting to eat :-S

Trip did emphasise (again) to me that, despite having lived in cities since leaving uni, I am really not a city girl! So need to do some debating of options around escaping the big smoke, and what sacrifices I'm prepared to make.

Daniel Heath - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:

Thanks Ali

Another average week to report I'm afraid. I've felt pretty down in this gloomy weather. Lack of motivation for training (or studying) lead to overeating and oversleeping.

I feel like I've had enough of being disgustingly lazy now.

Written up a new food plan. New goal is to maintain 65kg and drop to 62kg for the military lead comp in June.

M-
T-Bouldering circuits
W-"capture the flag" Felt really down in a strange way, couldn't bring myself to get involved.
T-Bouldering circuits
F-Bouldering circuits
S-
S-Bouldering circuits (hopefully)

Apologies for the weak attitude. This will change now.
I will become the strongest (fittest, lightest) version of myself (Elliot Hulse :P )
deacondeacon - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:


Thanks for looking after fitclub Ali:


Next week- 2 E2's and 3E1's
a new indoor f7a
1 proper works woody session
Start a home pull up/ push up routine
1 skateboard session

STG-indoor f7a+ redpoint and a couple more F7A's on grit.

MTG-few routes on my wishlist, long johns slab, archangel, the rasp. (by end of april)

LTG- consolidate E4, at least 10 (by the end of 2013)

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Mon-Works Bouldering

Tue-Trad up to E1 at Gardoms

Wed-Nothing

Thu-Routes at the foundry

Fri-Works Bouldering
Indoor Skateboarding

Sat-Routes and bouldering at the foundry

Sun-probably limestone bouldering

-----------------------------------

The weather has scuppered most outdoor plans this week (we even got some more snow last night) so it's pretty climbing wall intensive.
Trad at gardoms was good with a couple of new E1's but the hardest route I did was an HVS, Bivens Crack. A real stamina fest and only just scraped through.
Indoor climbing was good although not particularly focused. I feel absolutely boxed after three days in a row.
I started using the woody at the works this week which was good but bloody hard, I can see it becoming pretty addictive too. Problem being because I climb pretty much every day I'm never really fresh enough for intensive climbing.
I'm going to start putting in some very short term goals into my fitclub posts which should help me plan my following week as my climbing is very unstructured.

Nothing to do with climbing but was great to get to the skatepark this week and am going to try and get out once a week. Surprisingly works the core quite hard too which can't be a bad thing.
deacondeacon - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Hey Daniel, looking at your logbook you're far from lazy, I think its great that you normally pop up on the logbooks every week with some new hard route. It's really motivating for others.
I've had a similar week to you I think where I've been predominantly climbing indoors and I've spoken to loads of people who still haven't been out this year! now that's lazy.
Get back on it and get stronger :)
deacondeacon - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:
Did you climb in New Zealand? I'm heading out there at the end of April and although its getting a little out of season for climbing I'm hoping to still get some bouldering done.
Castle Hill is reportedly an all year venue so that should be good.
Any other recommendations?
Ali - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath: We all have bad weeks and times when we feel lacking in motivation - especially when the weather's rubbish - don't beat yourself up (too much) about it!
Ali - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to deacondeacon: I didn't really climb, as I was with a non-climbing friend and we were so busy packing other stuff in there was no time! We popped into a couple of places though - Payne's Ford (Golden Bay at north of the south island) looked to have some good sports routes, and I reckon it'd probably stay warm there. Loved Elephant Rocks (Otago, just inland from Oamaru) - like Castle Hill but with positive pockets! Only popped into Castle Hill and the bit I played on was super polished but its massive so sure there's lots there.

Maria85 is probably a good person to ask as she's spent some time climbing over there...
deacondeacon - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali: cheers, I'll ask her if she doesn't see this post :)
Getting really excited for the trip now, and we're starting to plan what we're doing there. I'd hate to miss out on some great bouldering.
Ali - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to deacondeacon: It's an amazing place and, apart from the times we actually were at climbing areas, I didn't miss it at all! How long are you going for? I'm already planning my next trip :-)
maria85 - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to deacondeacon:
Castle Hill/Flock Hill is definitely the world class place to go bouldering wise. Very easy to get lost there, so make sure you have either a guidebook or (preferably!) some friendly locals. It's all slopey limestone and for most problems you'll probably want a mat; the landings are ok but problems can be quite high. I THINK there's somewhere fairly close by you can hire mats, but I'm not 100% about that.

Bouldering wise, there is a bit around Wanaka/Queenstown area that is in the guidebook. Plenty to go at elsewhere but quite possibly not in guidebooks. I'm not really a boulderer... will you be taking sport climbing stuff or not? If so I can probably help a little more!

Ali - glad you enjoyed it and are planning a return already! It is an amazing place, I can never put my finger on what's so special about it though. Counting myself lucky that I will get to move back there in the foreseeable future. Would you plan on climbing more if you go back again?
grubes - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:
Thanks Ali, the crash was not too bad
STG (Mar 2013):
More than 1 7 in spain maybe a grade push
MTG (July 2013)
Climb harder than 7a in UK and abroad.
Lead E3 try onsight
LTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Great wall at squamish
7b
E3/4
Weight loss!

This Weeks Goals:
NO BOOZE! - fail but hardly any thing 1small drink
3 sessions + - tick 5
Lead session - no leading but lots of routes

M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Rokt. 3hours top roped a few routes up to 6c flashing all
T: rokt 2 hours bouldered, circuits, top roping 7a
F: works 3.5 hours good session climbed reasonably
S: foundry 3.5 hours top roped 6a-6c region
S: depot Leeds 3hours good boasting but felt 5days on by the end of it. Finished a couple more problems

Next Weeks goals:
Rest
Fly to Spain
First 7 of the trip by the end of sunday
grubes - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes: meant to say spent most of my session at the depot on the woods. Absolutely brilliant set
Si dH - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:
Thanks Ali. Now back home after two weeks away so full report below. Post-Font I now need to set my goals for the rest of the year...discussed at the bottom.

STG (this winter through to March): tick at least 10 new Ft 7s, including at least one Ft 7b, before Font [didn't get on any 7bs but managed 6 Ft 7a, 3 Ft 7a+]

MTG: tick at least 5 Ft 7as in Font in March [managed 3 Ft 7as in first 3 days, then no more due mostly to wet weather]

LTG (March-Dec 2013):
- aim to onsight 10 E3s and 1 E4 in 2013. [will start some trad as soon as it warms up enough...]

M: First day of first ever ski trip, in Andorra. Not much sleep as I only arrived at 2am. Did some practice with the wife to check we could still go in a straight line without falling over (had previously been to Tamworth a couple of times), then had the first of our lessons (we had 3 x 3 hour lessons booked). Today was all on the beginner slopes but still good fun. Shattered by the end of the day.
T: Went out on our own in the morning and did 3 blue runs, then another lesson in the afternoon covering several more blues.
W: As Tuesday, went out on my own (no wife this time, she was knackered) and did a couple more blue runs, one was pretty steep and hard for me (fell over a couple of times) then had another 3 hour lesson in the afternoon a bit like the day before. Instructor was really good. Unfortunately my left wrist started really hurting badly in the evening, it is weak in pressing on things and I think leaning on my ski poles had damaged it.
T: Had to have a day off as my wrist was still painful. Went to a spa in the afternoon so did some swimming!
F: Got up early to do some more skiing before travelling home. Managed 4 blues and one easy red (it was definitely easier than at least one of the blues I'd done.) Can parallel turn reasonably well at a reasonable pace but have low control - still fall over perhaps one in 10-20 turns for various reasons, usually to do with getting my inside ski caught in the snow or with my outside ski. Left at lunch time on coach to Barcelona airport, eventually got home to Derby about midnight.
S: Picked up at 430am for drive to Font! (so you'll gather I was short of sleep.) All day travelling then buying food etc.
S: First day in Font. Went to Maunoury first and did a brilliant Ft7a called Rababoum. I think it took me about 10 goes. Then went over to Dame Jouanne crag to try L'Angle Parfait, 7a+. Unfortunately it just felt really thin and a bit greasy, couldnt do it. Later on went over to l'Elephant and tried Le Coeur a couple of times (Ft 7a). Felt quite close but didnt have long enough to tick it.
M: Went to Buthiers. Tried Lady Big Claque (7a/+?) - felt doable but was a bit damp, The Ramp (7a) - nowhere near, felt really powerful and my elbow was hurting, and Attention Chef d'Ouevre (7a) - again was a bit greasy in the crux holds and I couldnt do it, although spent a long time trying! Then went to try Nemesis (Ft7a) and despite tiredness managed to do it fairly quickly.
T: Franchard Isatis. Tried l'Angle Ben's (7a+) but painful left elbow and general disbelief at how smooth the rock was meant I was nowhere near. Then went over to do the 7a version of Les Troubadours, which I enjoyed - took a lot of effort and working out but went in the end. Skin very thin and both elbows now hurting(!)
W: Essential rest day...
T: Rain! :( We went to Rocher Fin when it dried up for a couple of hours in the evening and did a few warm-up red problems, then found a dry 7a called Guerre et Pais (sp) (War and Peace). I did the probable crux and got to the final mantel a couple of times but didnt quite manage it, and it was hurting both my left wrist - the mantel - and both elbows - it involved big steep/powerful moves - so I gave up.
F: Wet all day, nothing.
S: Travelling back all day
S: Resting and relaxing today. Short walk in to town, trying to eat sensibly as the last week has been a complete glutton-fest, stacks of bread, cheese and beer.

Overall I've had a great 2 weeks off work and enjoyed both skiing and Font. However to my surprise I think I actually preferred the skiing. Font was fun, good to go away with friends, and the climbing was good for the first 3 days, but then I got fed up with the weather and it certainly wasn't as good a week overall as previous trips eg Kaly. On the plus side, I was pleased with 3 Ft 7as in 3 days - I feel like I've achieved my true minimum target for this season, which was to feel confident ticking a new Ft 7a in a single session - and they were all really good, especially Rababoum.

I ate too much both weeks, especially when doing little exercise for the second half of this week in Font, and have put on about 5 or 6 pounds. Doh! Need to try and diet a bit now.

New goals now need to be set for the rest of the year - as said above I'd like to target 10 E3s and an E4 for 2013. I definitely don't want to name specific routes as this hasn't worked in the past, due to not ending up going to the right places at the right time. I'm struggling with how to break the goal down further so welcome suggestions, but this is the best I can think of for now (dependent on the temperature increasing soon!):

STG (spring): Onsight at least 2-3 new E2s on grit then try to get maybe 2 grit E3s done. Also do an E3 in Wales while away over Easter (possibly on slate).
MTG (summer): Onsight at least 3 E3s & maybe an E4 on peak limestone and at least 2 E3s further afield eg Wales or South coast. Redpoint at least 1 F7b/+ to help keep fitness levels up.
LTG (autumn): Onsight another 3 E3s on grit and an E4 either on limestone or grit.

Si
deacondeacon - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to maria85: thanks Maria, I'm meeting a friend out there who lives near castle hill so will be fine for pads and guidance, although I'm likely to be on my own at other venues (we'll be spending a fair bit of our time on the north island).
With regards to sport climbing, I doubt I'll be doing any as my wife doesn't climb and bouldering is a little more sociable, but I'll take a harness just in case.
Getting seriously excited about the trip now, I've never travelled further than Greece :)
Ali - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to maria85: Definitely! Didn't miss climbing so much when we were travelling round, but definitely did when we were near rock! Though that will mean having a climbing partner as a travel companion :-) My friend I travelled with (who is a committed non climber or lover of heights) even said she thought she might have a go at bouldering, so we'll see! I was wondering as we were going round, what the best place to live for climbing would be, as there don't seem to be a huge number of walls and I don't know how much developed climbing - what do you think? Exciting that you'll get to move back - I am rather tempted to start looking at jobs myself!
deacondeacon - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali: sorry Ali, missed your question earlier. Im onlyout there for 3 weeks so its very doubtful I'll be getting withdrawal symptoms from climbing. Tbh I think I could do with the rest :)
NMN - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:

Thanks Ali.

Running goals:
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Wasdale - get round.

STG:
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
MTG:
Push trad grade.
LTG:
Lead a tough E1.


M - 6.03m trail run, 269ft.
T - Nothing (too much work).
W 6.2m road run, 219ft.
T indoor routes.
F 3.00m hills, 1,618ft.
S - 3.27m hills, 1,983ft.
S - 3.10m hills, 1,798ft.
AJM - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Si dH:

I had mixed feelings about Font - a wonderful place and good for a chilled holiday but I couldn't get psyched to train for months for it in the same way as I do for a sport trip - very different from someone like Alex G.

I nearly managed a doubling of my training volume this week, but in the end after spending all day working out in the cold the psyche just wasn't there.

Managed one good focused wall session though. Hadn't been doing any maintenance fitness, been struggling enough to maintain strength, so was a bit worried about how the first stamina training session would go. Turned out pretty good, did 2xlaps on the boulder to warm up and another one after that. Wrong order really to be aerocapping at the start but my roped partner hadn't arrived and the boulder wall was rammed. Then did 46 pullups in 5 minutes, so ok but not brilliant. Then went downstairs and onsighted one of the comp 7as, which was nice. Then had a really good go at the 7b, got to the crux and fell off there. Got so pumped it took me a good 20 minutes to recover. Did a 6b+ but when I got back on the 7b it was clear I was done. Keen to get back on the 7b, very sustained, no rests and lots of flat slopey holds. Really good for training.
Nomics4sale - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:

Thanks Ali. Sounds like you had an awesome trip, will read your blog later to find out where you went. I've been out there a couple of times, totally loved it too. Such a great place.

Re your moving out of the big smoke.... Do it!! I lived in London for 18 years and finally moved out 4/5 years ago. It's the best thing I ever did! If you're into outdoorsy stuff then London isn't a great place to be. What's holding you back? What do you do for work? Could you find something as good outside of London? It was quite hard for me to find a decent job up here and to be honest I've never really managed to sort that out. And leaving friends is hard too but everyone loves to come visit so it's not like you never see them again. Sacrifices, yes, for sure, but it's worth it. I could go on and on about how much better life is up here but it would take up too much space....(I'm in Lancashire btw).

STG (mid March): RP 7b in Spain
MTG (Summer 2013): more E1s and look at E2, maybe RP 7b in the UK
LTG: not sure

Mon: Ingleton wall for circuits
Tues: nowt
Wed am: Went to Summit Quarry but it was drizzling and foggy so sacked it off for a return visit this week. Nik led an E4 in the drizzle (!) which I couldn't get anywhere near on top rope. Very annoying.
Wed pm: 9.7 mile trail run, 300m ascent, Forest of Bowland.
Thurs: Malham, warmed up on Consenting and then had a couple of goes on top rope on Space Race. Feels much more doable and nicer than Something Stupid will add it to my list of routes to go at.
Fri: nowt
Sat: routes Preston. top roped 7b, RP'ed 7a (2nd go), top toped 7a+ twice, dogged 7a.
Sun: 11.7 mile run to Broad Crag from ODG, 988m ascent.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Daniel Heath - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to deacondeacon:

Thanks mate, that's good to hear.

I've just had a great sesh, so pumped I can barely type.

I will get stronger, and same to you :)
Eagle River - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:

Thanks Ali, glad you had a good time in NZ

STG: 7c by April 2013 (Tremelo)
MTG: Raindogs

Mon: Indoor routes. Couple of goes on the 8a, was quite busy most of the night so looked at some 7b+s I'd done previously. Managed, with the top 3 clips in, to climb through the 8a crux to the top.

Wed: Similar to monday, high intensity with a couple of goes on the 8a. Still nowhere near sticking the crux from the floor.

Sat: Malham. Mint conditions.
Got on Tremelo, had a couple of lead attempts which were useful for sorting out clipping positions and taking some falls. I feel it could go soon, I've got a couple of days off the week after next and should be at Malham on Sat too. Mega-psyched for Malham again.
deacondeacon - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath: Excellent, i've just gone on the limestone for the first time this year and got completely spanked. Feels good though.
Ali - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: I only moved down a couple of years ago - it was the right move at the time, but always thought it would only be for a few years! Job is the issue - there are jobs elsewhere but not plentiful and would be a lot less interesting than here. Thinking about going into something else but not sure what so that's the main thing holding me back at the moment - kind of waiting for inspiration to strike! I have friends all over so not so worried about that :-)
Ian Bell - on 10 Mar 2013
Hi everyone, Ali thanks for stepping in.

Quite week for me;

M-F - nothing, resting shoulder / ankle.
S - Reach. 2x7a & 5x6c+ with various amounts of rest but managed them all eventually. OS one 6c+. Maybe another 10 or so routes around the 6b / 6b+ mark.
S - nothing again

Ankle now feeling OK ish. Was going to fingerboard today but shoulder says no so a light week this week. Off to Tenerife for a week at Easter so got to heal up for that.

Aiming for 3 wall sessions next week and maybe even sandstone on Sunday if the weather is good.
Ian Bell - on 10 Mar 2013
Also has anyone ever been to Stone Farm (southern sandstone near ish London)? I realized its only an hour / hour and a quarter from where i work so as the nights get lighter i'm going to try and do the odd evening after work there. maybe bowles / harrisons also but stone farm looks around 30 mins closer.

would be interested to hear thoughts if anyone has tried it.
deacondeacon - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Ian Bell: I lived in Sutton when I began climbing and would go to Stone Farm most evenings in the summer. The rock quality is very good (for Southern Sandstone) and there is some good but limited bouldering. It's a fairly low crag and most routes can be soloed with a pad. It's also probably the quickest drying crag down there which really helps.
If you've been working in London all day it can feel like a real haven.
Ian Bell - on 10 Mar 2013
Thanks deacondeacon. Sounds good. From the look of the guide the parking is super close also. Looking forward to the lighter nights to give it a try.
deacondeacon - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Ian Bell: Yeah it's only about 30 seconds away. Theres a reservoir to swim in when it's too hot to climb too. Makes me want to go back for a climb. lol
leon on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:
STG: Stick to the training plan.
MTG:
LTG(2013): Redpoint sport 7b, 1 e3, 1 e2 that plenty of people think is e3.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 0(94)
Fat %: 12
Focus: Strength(1/3)
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. Repertoire of moves. FoF.

Mon: Nothing.
Tue: Core. Shoulders & Arms(Weights).
Wed: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2). Repeaters.
Thu: Arc(30 mins). Core. Push-ups(88), Pull-ups(46), Back(weights).
Fri: Routes(only 9, max 7aos. Bouldering(to V5 only 6 problem done!!!).
Sat: Shoulders & Arms(Weights). Core.
Sun: Bouldering (to V5). Repeaters.

Thanks Ali. Training went well this week, suddely started to feel very inspired. I need to work on my bouldering a bit more, giving up early due to bad skin at the moment.

Plan for next week:
Mon: Weights. Core.
Tue: Bouldering.
Wed: Push-ups, Pull-ups, Back(weights). Core.
THu: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2). Repeaters.
Fri: Wall session or bouldering.
Sat: Weights. Core.
Sun: Bouldering or ARC & 2 sets of Repeaters.
useful on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:
Maybe I should get my own Bagpuss :)
After Lizzie's sick spell last week, I've also been feeling below my best this week. So I'd thought I'd take it easy... only it didn't turn out that way!
--
M 4/3: a tough 20' piece on the rowing machine: 4 minutes light, then 4 light, then repeat 3, 2 and 1 minutes. High Intensity
Tu: 1 hour run: What was going to be light turned into a quite tough session around Wepre Park/Ewloe Castle... Good to be out running in the twilight, though!
W: Climbing Liverpool Awesome Walls (9 routes)
* 5TR, 5+TR, 6a+L (failed) - very fingery, 6aL, 6aL, 6a+L(1 fall), 6b/6a/5+ Fail!
* 5a+L Pumped, then 6aL (1 rest)
* climbing felt hard, and a couple of silly slips on the easier routes showed I wasn't 100%.
Th: Seeing as I was tired already, I decided to take a half hour swim.
F: Rest
Sa: A 10+ mile walk, including a scramble up the Crib Lem Spur http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=51006 - good day out, even solo'ed a couple of harder bits.
Su: Climbing at the Beacon (13 routes + 3 boulder routes):
(Climbing on my own at first, friend held up by roadworks)
* Traverse x2 warmup
* Bouldering warmup: Vb, Veasy, V0-
* 5cAutobelay (AB), 4aAB, 6a+AB - failed, 6a+AB with right route and faster!
* Worked a 6a+AB route, while practicing clipping too.
* Then friend arrived:
* 5cL warmup, 6aL on the 15m wall: first time I've succeeded on this one - YAY!
* 6aL, 5cL, 5cL, 6a+LRP (1 rest), 6aL
* 6b+L (failed) - retried the one from the other week, but left hand too weak
* 6a+L (dogged) - very hard work!

So in summary:
* Feeling under the weather so pushed for higher mileage at a level I could manage.
* Start again next week with a clean slate! :)

JimmyKay - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:

Cheers Ali.

In the middle of the busiest week of my life it seems. Working like an absolute dog in school.

M- Core (Dynamic movements: 201)(Static: 7:30)
T- Wall Sesh up to v7
W- Core (Dynamic movements: 181)(Static: 5:00)
T- Nothing
F- Nothing
S- Ran a 2.5k orienteering course, and about 150 press-ups. Loads of 1 legged squats.
S- 15mile walk.

mattrm - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:

Thanks Ali.

Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening

STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 12st 4lbs
Process goals
4 core, 3 cardio and 1 boulder - 2 core, 1 cardio, no bouldering
Light breakfast, Soup for lunch, sensible evening meals - yup
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minux etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100stay injury free & maintain 11st

Weight - 12st 7lbs

M - Core + 30 mins cardio
T - T - Rest
F - Core
S - S - Rest/injured shoulder

Foot still injured and I've managed to stuff up my shoulder doing some DIY (sawing and planing some wood) stuff. Shoulder is incredibly painful. It's like I've ripped off the muscles on the back of the blade. When I twist my torso or turn my head it's a horrible sharp stabbing pain. Dosed up on painkillers. Hopefully it'll go away. Unsurprisingly it's on my already slightly iffy left shoulder. I'm going to have to look into building up my shoulder and back/core strength, if/when it gets better.

On the positive side, I'm close to the pre-holiday weight. So I guess that's something. But feels like one small step forward and two big steps back as always.
AJM - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

Oh and goals for this week are twofold:
- by the end of the weekend, drink a cup of tea whilst sitting on an upholstered bed/sofa cushion using water pumped through the van tap from its water reservoir and heated on the van stove.
- Weekday wall session, focus on stamina, and something outdoors at the weekend. Maybe a session on Ames Low or perhaps something pumpy on a rope.
Kevster - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:

Thanks Ali,

Scotland (Hoy) was cancelled due to weather unfortunatly. Only made the decision mid week. Looking how it worked out up there, a sound decision, but non the less, disapointing.

Slim week this week - work got in the way, went to white spider for the first time. A good quantity of lines. And quite a number in the harder grades, which aren't a give away.

Looking for informed recomendations or current conditions: May make a day or two outside tues/weds, anyone know what Wintours, Cheddar, Brean, Avon, Cuttings/portland & swanage are like with regards to clag or seepage currently? Any info apreciated. I realise they may be similar, just keeping weather options open.

Also what is portishead quarry and fairy cave quarry like if anyone has been?

Tues & weds: Setting
Sat: White spider.

This week - maybe outside, indoors or fingerboard once & upto the peak disctrict for the weekend.

Thanks all, Kev

AJM - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Kevster:

Wherever you end up, if it's around here stay well out of the wind it's been bitter here.

In terms of conditions, it was relatively dry all week last week in bristol, lovely sun at the start of the week but a bit claggy later on. It rained a fair bit Friday night on the road down to Bristol and back (yes, I spent Friday night buying cupboard doors for the van in Ikea - party animal!), then In Cheltenham over the weekend there's been a bit of an attempt to Snow, nothing sticking whatsoever, no sunshine and a bitterly cold wind. My guess is that local stuff there's likely to be quite a lot of stuff doably dry but perhaps the odd seepage patch.

if wind is east or northeast Avon might be in shelter and dries fast, or down in the trees at the base of GO Wall etc at wintours perhaps you might get still air, and any seepage from the rain shouldn't have reached the base of there? Personally I'd be wary of Brean but then it eats my skin in the cold. Bound to be something doable at cheddar but it could be windy.

Never been to portishead. Fairy cave is nice but can be a bit sunless and bleak in the winter.
Kevster - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy.

Brean should be sheltered mind, I'm going to have a quick read of Go wall in the guide.
AJM - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Kevster:

Should be yeah but I've had a few days where the wind has managed to creep in either along the ridge or over the top to the right of the routes and swirl round a bit so I'm always wary given what it does to my skin in those conditions.
JimmyKay - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:

Oh and if anyone is Mold/Ruthin way on Wednesday afternoon, I was thinking of heading to pantymwyn for a boulder.
maria85 - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to deacondeacon:
Sounds like you're sorted for Castle Hill then. In terms of sport, the best places to look for short days and plentiful partners are Wanaka and Payne's Ford. Queenstown routes are mainly a much longer walk in, for the good stuff anyway. Payne's Ford (ie. Takaka) is a lovely place to hang out with lots to do for non-climbers (walks, beaches etc). The cragging in Wanaka is mainly close to the road and again, in a lovely area. Wanaka itself has more than enough to keep non-climbers occupied for a while. The bouldering is in a similar area to the crags, except for one boulder that is by the lakeside in town for a quick play around.

All the Wanaka bouldering and cragging is in the Wanaka Rock book, readily available in the town. Most of the rest of the south island is covered in either South Island Rock or Rock Deluxe. As far as I know there isn't a specific bouldering guide, but I may be wrong!

I know very little about the north island, sorry.

Enjoy it :-)
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maria85 - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:
Where to live is a hard one! I hate to say it but NZ doesn't have amazing rock climbing, nothing like the quality or variety of the UK. As is often said, NZ's best crag is Arapiles... (*Disclaimer - I have never been to Araps!)

In terms of concentration of climbing, the Wanaka/Queenstown area probably has the most, but it is all on a fairly rubbish schist that is ok when clean but horrendous on newish routes. It is also within striking distance of most of the major mountaineering and skiing, if that's important! Wanaka has a wall, though more aimed at tourists than climbers, and Queenstown has a small wall in the sport centre.

Takaka, as you've seen, has some good limestone sport, but nothing else close really.

Christchurch is the main 'city' option, with cragging on the Port Hills (which is, I think, gradually reopening now after the earthquakes, but still no where near as solid/extensive as it used to be - some routes have been totally destroyed and the crags probably not usable for a long time yet). You also have everything on the Banks peninsula, including some trad, and are within easy weekend distance of Mt Somers and Castle Hill, as well as the ski fields in Arthurs Pass in the winter. As far as I know both climbing gyms in Chch are open after the earthquakes, there's a big one (pretty good) and a smaller one at the YMCA. Jobs obviously more plentiful than the rest of the south island, especially if you're in construction type trades right now! Of course, living in an active earthquake zone isn't for everyone.

There is some climbing in Dunedin (part trad, part sport... I am told it doesn't always rain there but have yet to believe it! No wall I don't think though.

If/when I go back, it will most likely be to Chch - with regular visits to Wanaka! Mainly due to jobs though rather than anything else. What field of work are you in? Working holiday visas are easy to get also...
IainRUK - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to maria85:

m: am: 3 mile run. pm: 11 mile road run.
t: lunch: 4.5 mile road run. pm: 8 mile road run
w: lunch: 6 mile trail run. pm: 8 mile road run
t: am: 5 mile road run. pm: 9 mile with 5 x 1k in 3:20ish
f: am: 3.5 mile slow run. pm: 10 mile mountain run.
s: am: 16 mile mountain run up brocken. pm: 7.5 mile XC ski.
s: am: 12 mile XC ski. pm: 8 mile mountain run,
maria85 - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:
Pretty lazy week :-( No excuses really, just been busy and tired and not making time for anything, and put off by crappy weather at the end of the week.

Last week's goals:
1 x wall session (roped) -Tick
2 x core -One done
2 x fingerboard - work out a proper session to push myself -Fail & fail
2 x bike to work with longer ways home -One done
2 x runs -Tick
Either a long run or ride at the weekend, or both! -Tick - ride

M: Still in Scotland. Walked around Loch Morlich (6km or so, flat) before driving back.
T: Shattered, but managed a 40min mtb after work.
W: Biked to work and back, singletrack on way home :-)
T: Lunchtime run, 4.8km, 26 mins. Knee hurting a bit so took it easy.
F: Leeds wall. 5, 5+, 6a, 6a+ (one rest), 6a on main wall with lots of falls, 6a - all led. Good session to see where I'm at before planning the session a bit more in future. Conclusion: zero stamina (pumped after the 2nd route) and still scared of falling even indoors. Got on the really steep 6a to try to help this but still wouldn't push myself to failure, though at least on this I was happy jumping off above the clips (not so much on vertical ones). Couldn't bring myself to make clips when I thought I was struggling - definite fear of falling whilst clipping. Irational as high enough up that it would be fine.
S: Gisburn Forest - red 8 loop. 18km. Fun and loving the new bike, need to switch to flats though as clips are making me too nervous on anything remotely technical! Snowing.
S: Doing family stuff, but managed to squeeze in a ~5km run (flat, 27mins ish) and a 20 min core session - though all plank related exercises were slightly lop-sided due to putting a big hole in my elbow yesterday!

Goals for this week:
2 x wall sessions - 1 depot, 1 roped. Plan the roped session more to warm up better and possibly do 4x4 type things.
2 x core & fingerboard. Carrying over aim of finding a reasonable fingerboard workout. Also look at working stamina on fb for when I can't get to/afford the wall.
3 x bike to work
3 x short runs
Unsure of weekend plans as yet but do something fun!
Work out which (running) races I'm entering this year and put entries in. Aiming for at least 1 half mara, 1 marathon distance (probably trail not road) and 1 weekend mountain marathon, plus a mini MM.

maria85 - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Si dH:
Welcome to being a ski-addict ;-) Glad you had fun.
Nomics4sale - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:

Yeah the job issue is a tricky one. I'm sure inspiration will strike at some point if you keep it in mind. Things will probably be easier if and when things improve economically and meanwhile you can keep thinking it over..
pork pie girl - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali: thanks for the positive feedback Ali... it's really encouraging :o)

i've done all those three routes at mentioned, once i got rose done i ticked the others quickly.. i quite like puddle jumper and keep considering using it as my warm up... but find it run out between the 3rd and 4th bolt... once i have my malham head back on i think i may steer towards that, we'll see
Exile - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:

Family / climbing / work - the eternal juggling act!
Goals:

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7
RP - 7a+ / 7b
HP - E6
Winter - VI 7

Summer
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.

Weeks training:

M: Morning - 1hrs climbing wall. 4x4, core, 3x3
T: Rest (Work early to late)
W: Evening - 2hr climbing wall - working power endurance traverses & core
T: 50min fell run
F: Morning - 45min fell run, evening - 1hr 4x4, core, 4x4 at wall
S: Rest
S: 1hr 30 power endurance traverses & core at Wall.

Not a high volume week but the climbing is going well.
pork pie girl - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:

m-rest day
t- pm.. cardio (int training on bike) core, bouldering for an hour... just ticking v3/4s and then getting shut down on anyhting above that ... the current probelms require lots of dynos.. need more time on them. routes.. 6x laps on a 7a.. fueled by 3 tangtastic haribos (stolen off sarah)
w- lunch time.. weights and core, pm.. cardio (int tr on bike)
t-cardio .. easy session.. felt very tired and hungry
f-am cardio- int tr on bike and core.. good session..legs felt strong and good tunes on ipod... pm routes at wall.. 6a+ in trainers (why??) with falling practice (no swearing) led: 6c+, 7a, twice on 7b+.. falls and rests and panic clippinh higher up but chuffed with effort... alot of folk getting spanked on it so feel ok about it. pm weights ... reduced number of sets slightly to prevent injury after climbing
s- sore back and hip (need to see chiro for an adjustment.. booked in for this wednesday) malham.. consenting (felt better) puddlejumper.. led a bit, space race x2 .. like it, raindogs x1 .. from the bottom... beta from a bloke who pushed me whilst going for pocket at bottom.. really like the bottomw section and felt great to get on it .. even though i had assistance .. the mystery had now gone and i'm looking forward to a couple of years of working the moves!!! section between second bolt and top still feels hard.. still struggling with that windmill move (about not pushing enough on right foot) and barn dooring whits going for flat side pull under mini roof


high pressure forecast for all this week... excited if i can get time of work :o)
Ally Smith on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Good week - feel like i'm making some progress. Spain in 3 weeks :-)

LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham

MTG (Spring 2013) - Melanchollie at LPT & be fit for Terredets at Easter. Found video of La Marroncita at Oliana. Think this will be one of my Easter targets.

STG (end Feb 2013 - assessment)
- Re-hab ankle injuries - they're still fecked. Scan arranged.
- Continue re-hab of finger injury and re-start finger boarding - bang! Fingers cranking almost back at full strength; just dragging 2 finger pockets that feel tweaky now.
- Get back in the cave of justice - yep, got there and got ticks
- Lots of elbow eccentrics - Zottman curls proving good combination exercise - ticked
- Back to Brean Down and finish off ticking the crag. 4 new routes and a retro-bolt since i lived in Bristol - missed - no further SW trip.
- Get back below 75kg (Currently 77.0kg and 6.9% BF - miss)
- More core - tick
- More an-cap - tick
- More small holds, preferably outside - tick

New STG (end Mar 2013)
- Re-hab ankle injuries & assess whether surgery is the answer or not.
- Continue finger boarding
- Lots of elbow eccentrics & sports massage - Zottman curls proving good combination exercise
- Get pumped 3 times a week - now aiming for Spanish route fitness
- Get back below 75kg
- More core
- More an-cap
- More small holds; get reacquainted with Melanchollie

M - Meant to go to yoga, but felt beasted
T - Parisella's again. Worked LF and Trigger Cut and made progress on both with new kneebar beta, then an-cap laps. Full 3x4 session completed. Time to start using harder problems! 3x20 kneebar sit-ups before home.
W - Mild gym session concentrating on shoulder, ankle and elbow preventative physio. 40min cardio in total too.
T - 3x RP attempts on steep 8a, then aero-cap laps
F - Rest
S - 3x RP attempts on steep 8a, then aero-cap laps, then more laps when another partner turned up! BIG meal - lots of steak and red wine.
S - Very lazy day - finally got out of bed at midday!
Fingerboarding. Repeaters 4x half-crimp on BM2K slots (+4kg), 4x half-crimp on BM2K sml slots (+2kg) No where near as tired as last weeks session with similar structure. Then 5min pull-up test - 64 - get in!
seankenny - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:

Thanks Ali. Rubbish week for me, haven't done anything as I've had a continuing chest infection - now on antibiotics so should be much better in a few days. Hopefully more progress by next week!

Luke Owens - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali: Cheers Ali!

STG - 7b (My project) and Font 7A
MTG - 7c and Font 7A+
LTG - 8a and Font 7B/+

Monday - Rushed from work and got to the crag at 5pm to try my project, felt stressed and rushed knowing I only had an hours light. Had 2 redpoints (first was practically a warm up) and then another 2 in the dark with headtorch (not ideal). No send but learnt some more about the route and sorted out some technical beta.

Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday & Friday - Rest (Couldn't get a babysitter in the week and wanted to stay rested for project on Saturday)

Saturday - Despite it raining since Thursday eve and conditions looking misty and damp out the window in the morning on Saturday, I headed back to Denbigh to try my project. Against all odds it was bone dry...?! Awesome!

Warmed up by getting on the route. Very cold conditions but good for the crux sloper move. First go was rubbish and as expected I got flash pump. 2nd go I hit the sloper and didn't stick it.

3rd go and I found myself past the crux pumped stupid on the upper section. You could define the upper section as considerably easier than the crux below but I got completely stressed all of a sudden at the prospect of how close I was to getting the first ascent and achieving a massive goal of mine.

I managed to calm down and carry on over thinking the sustained moves to the chains. Clipping them didn't feel real and then it sunk in. What just happend? It all happend so quickly! An amazing feeling!

The route is called Force Majeure - F7b it's very unique and an excellent route for more info on it:

I've wrote about the route on my Blog:
http://lukeowens.blogspot.co.uk/

There's also a video of it on my Vimeo page:
http://www.vimeo.com/user10510082

Sunday - Rest
grubes - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Luke Owens: Congrats!!
Luke Owens - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes:

Cheers Grubes! Still smiling now! haha
kylieo on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:

Thanks for doing this week Ali.
Not an amazing week from me, I feel like I tried hard but achieved little.

Monday - route 4x4s. Aim was 6a+,6b+,6c,6c+, got through the first 3 fine but got on the 6c+ and soon realised there was no chance. Did a 6b instead yet still fell off a lot. Although given that I'd only managed to redpoint the 6c+ a couple of weeks earlier maybe hoping to 4x4 it was a bit keen!
Tuesday - conditioning and fingerboard. Still really weak on the fingerboard.
Wednesday - bouldering, a complete new problem set which was fun. Got a few in the V2-V4 range and found a couple in V4-V6 that I might be able to get with some work.
Thursday - long conditioning session, I think I might have overdone this.
Friday - bouldering warm up then 20/10s, touches and offsets on campus board. Cut this session short as I was quite tired and achey after yesterday, I'm paranoid about getting injured.
Saturday - nothing
Sunday - should have been a routes session but I was tired so we didn't bother.

Our current plan is 4 climbing sessions, 2 conditioning sessions and a fingerboard session each week. It's a lot but I struggle to know when to cut down and when to go at it. I worry about getting injured if I do too much but also feel like I'm giving up if I skip stuff. Somewhere there's a fine line between training enough and recovering enough, I just need to find it!
Jamming Dodger on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:

> Jamming Dodger - how are you getting on with the goals? Maybe need to include some climbing sessions if you're looking to get to 7a...

Havent weighed myself this week so not sure how the weight thing is going but I think im about where I was last week which isnt too bad.
The climbing: As mentioned before its a long term goal and I dont have time to get lots of sessions in. The biggest obstacle I face really is that I cant belay or drive at the moment so getting regular partners in this case is awkward so only really get climbing when my boyfriend belays for me. For now id be happy to get my weight down and get climbing as and when I can.

Monday: 28 miles ride
Tuesday: 28 mile ride
Wednesday: 28 mile ride
Thursday: Rest day (long day at work and then travelling in the eve)
Friday: 7 mile run
Saturday: After a sketchy start, 12 routes at the climbing wall.
Sunday: 8 mile run.

Felt pretty good exploring a new town on my runs and had (for me) a half decent pace all the way round.
Ali - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Luke Owens: Awesome work Luke - well done! That sloper looks minging...
Ali - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to maria85: I'm an emergency planner....
Daniel Heath - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:

Great work Luke!
biscuit - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:

Thanks for stepping in Ali.

Some good stuff going down this week.

Well done Luke.

After Pork Pie Girl ( PPG ) gave me sympathy last week i felt bad. What was i really whinging and getting down about. Yes it's been rainy, yes it's been ages since i've climbed properly but do you know what ? I live within an hour of abour 2,000 routes it's sunny about 300 days a year and i love my job. That caused me to buck my ideas up.

A hard week at work meant i was too tired to train in the evenings so nothing done but good diet and plenty of exercise during the week.

I started doing antagonist work in the morning. It's not intense and it needs doing as the list of things that hurt gets longer. I am doing one leg squats ( thanks Chewy they seem to be working ), shoulder work ( YLWT's), core and dumbell complexes and a good stretch. Feels good and i am going to continue it on non climbing days.

Rain continued all week and had a climbing day on Sunday. 200km of driving to find dry rock saw us in a seeping cave with a floor consisting of liquefied goat shit. Didn't stay long. Did a 6a+ ( wet ) and gave up. Did some falling practice though which was good, then went for tapas and beers.

Advance notice for next week. Due to the wash out and Mrs Biscuit going back to the UK for a week this weekend she allowed me out again today with my mate. Wasn't expecting it so we had slight hangovers but had a great day in a new crag for me. O/S 6a+, ( then repeated it and took some falls for practice ) 6c, 6c+ ( my anti style - steep tufas ) and a 7a attempt on a monster 40m line. Best 7a i have EVER been on. Stuffed it up 2/3rds of way up when i got lost and couldn't get back on line. The rest of it went OK including the supposed crux that was actually quite easy. Too tired for anything else after that. What a route ! No hard moves but every one you had to think about. SLabby for 20m then kicked back the angle with a total change in character to the most sidepully climb i've ever been on.

Not much stamina after not much climbing and i was gassed after that so no more for me.

So i feel positive again and am convinced that taking a couple of falls on my warm up routes does me the power of good.

This weeks targets:

2x swim - 1500m in session
2x bike
1x weighted pulls
1x repeaters
Possible climb outside on weekend if i can find someone to babysit.
Joughton on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali: Cheers Ali:) I never really intend to work routes on holiday, I find it too stressful when I have a short time limit, and I'd prefer getting as many good ticks as possible. That sounds like a pretty full on exercise though, I thought a bit of fake blood and bones in a car park was bad! The funniest bit is when passers-by walk passed and looked alarmed, but don't actually react...

Kinda good week for me, great for training, but I realised I've forgotten how to climb well having spent so long indoors...

Mon - rest
Tue - Stockport Wall, great session. Lots of new routes to try to onsight, feeling really strong - 6a+, 6b+, 7a, 7a+, 7a, 7b+, 7b, 7a+, all onsight in one session. Also had a go at Eagle River's 7c, and made it to the lip this time, and found the move I was falling off repeatedly last time fairly straightforward which is encouraging.
Wed - even better session! Similar at MCC, lots of new routes, managed to onsight every new 7a and up route - 6a, 7a, 7c, 7b+, 7c+, 7a, 7a. Now done every 7a or harder route at MCC onsight. First 7c+ indoors onsight too which is good for progress, felt pretty pumpy but not too hard.
Thurs - results day, really scary! Managed straight A's in maths, biology, chemistry, physics and general studies A-level so am chuffed to bits, and pleased all the time off climbing payed off.
Fri - rest
Sat - rest
Sun - Raven Tor, coldest day climbing ever! It was actually snowing as we climbed, there was ice on the road. Started by traversing around on some easier stuff before trying Weedkiller Traverse. Gave it a lot of goes but by the time I'd got all the beta figured I was too tired to finish it off, and the holds were damp:( really frustrating! Finished off toproping a 7c when I realised just how big climbing wall footholds are compared to the Tor - need to spend more time outside!

Jake
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Daniel Heath - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Joughton:

Wow 7c+ OS is a great measure of progress!

Well done on your A levels too.
JimmyKay - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Dan, do you remember that day we went out. I could barely climb a F6b sport route but then managed to campuse Weedkiller? Now Joughton's O/S'ing 7c+ and falling off Weedkiller.
AJM - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Joughton:

Good results Jake! And the AS levels too :)! (indoor insight 7c+ = wow)

JK - there's a lesson there I feel!
JimmyKay - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

Learn to climb? :-)
Joughton on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath: Well it's only inside, and MCC is a soft wall I climb at twice a week, I really need to work trying to translate that to limestone... but yeah it's good to have a new first, whenever I plateau at one aspect of climbing I can improve another which seems to be a good way of maintaining well-roundedness(apart from bouldering...)
Joughton on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay and AJM: Cheers Andy!

Obviously need to get stronger at bouldering! There was a lad there yesterday who actually found it harder feet on than feet off, sounds like a Jimmy in the making;) Any advice for improving pure bouldering strength/power whilst still maintaining decent stamina? The people at the Tor were making it look ridiculously easy, it made me jealous!
Eagle River - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to Joughton:

Congratulations Jake. Does this mean you'll be going to a uni conveniently located near lots of rock??
mrchewy - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali: Thanks Ali. Seems we have a mutual friend in Liz as well.

Weight 82kg
Diet Perfect some days and crap others.

Mon - AM 10x10 exercise. PM Easy bouldering 17xV0, 1xV1, some twice. 30 pressups.
Tue - 3x20 pressups.
Wed - AM 10x10 exercise. PM Easy Bouldering 19xV0, 1xV1, some twice and managed the blue V0 with a sidepull that on Mon had made the pulleys complain.
Thu - 10x10 warmup, 3x20 squats, 2x20 pressups
Fri - 10x10 warmup. Bouldering, traversing, rainbowing and 10xV0. No rests just constant.
Sat - Bouldering, bit of a broken session but kept to the plan of V0 only except for a go at a V2 on the roof. Felt okay but had to drop when it needed a drop knee move with my dodgy knee. Tried a few 7sec hangs and 3sec rests in the big holds on the BM. Then Jamming Dodger's belay bitch.
Sun - Rest. Niggles in the elbows, forearms and the groin so ditch plans. I'm learning! Spent some time swapping peddles on new road bike and started to service mountain bike, so not a totally wasted day.

Much happier this week and stuck to the plan of not pushing too much. Kept telling myself that solid V0 is HVS 5a - and seeing as I haven't led HVS yet, it keeps me motivated. Worked on silent feet mostly as the V0s are generally easy. Just two scruffy and awkward ones with fall potential need doing but I'm not going to risk the knee yet.

Managed to fit in a fair bit of general exercise sessions. The 10x general exercises is great, so gonna keep on using that as a warmup as it seems to get the whole body working just right.

Fingers not bad - ring finger is 'tweaky' when open handed on a straight arm but fine when crimping. Knee is settling down to what it is now but need to take care not to push it too far.
Luke Owens - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:
> (In reply to Luke Owens) Awesome work Luke - well done! That sloper looks minging...

Cheers guys!

It is shocking! But at the same time it's one of the best slopers i've climbed on, I have the beastmaker to thank for sticking that move!

Gotta love training!
pork pie girl - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit:

just because you live in the land of milk and honey t doesn't mean you're not allowed to get fed up sometimes.. it's all relative :o)

sounds like you're back on track now :o)

PS get a dog (a responsible one) ... and tie it's lead to your child at the bottowm of a crag... that's babysitting. problem solved
grubes - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:
Hes got a dog .. not sure responsible is the right term though :)

Plus 300 dry days a year. Sod going in november again I have had two wet years in a row the second being signifcantly wetter!
biscuit - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl & Grubes:

It served as a well timed reminder that i have a lot to be grateful for and i was really whinging about nothing, so thanks.

As for the dog, Grubes is right. I love my dog but he loves other ( generally male ) dogs and rucksacks full off food too much. He will mount any passing dog, eat anyones food - including going in rucksacks when he spots you are climbing and can't stop him - and as he's half sheep dog any walkers who come past he will follow for miles and get lost.

He's a great family dog but i don't take him to crags anymore :0(

On the plus side whilst we were stomping about in the rain the other day we looked at my local crag and there is what looke like an all weather mini gym boulder there. Steep and pretty perfect for circuits. Bit small but beggars can't be choosers. Big field for the dog to run around in with my lad while i have a quick blast :0)
biscuit - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes:

I tends to rain in blocks and you keep arriving at the wrong time !

Did you see Nik's new route he posted on FB last night ?

Wow !
grubes - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit:
I saw it on the other channel.
I spoke to him on thursday about it, he asked me if I want to come guessing I would be working which I was.

Nomics was belaying by looks of it on the video. disgusting looking monos them. 8mm bolt holes ... fat finger need not apply
grubes - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit:
Anyone wondering what the hell we are talking about. Nik Jennings up a new E7 (?) yesterday onsight with Nomics spotting/belaying
here is a video of disgusting mono pulling
http://www.vimeo.com/61547880
and UKB thread http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21838.0.html wher he explains it.
Nomics4sale - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes:

You should have taken the day off!! It was awesome to watch him do it... Unfortunately now I think there's some confusion about how "new" it actually is. Must be really annoying to find out after the event, all that hard work only to find someone else is claiming it.
Nomics4sale - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

If in fact it isn't new..
biscuit - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Still E7 onsight though with extra spice added due to the weather. It looked baltic.

Great belaying btw ;0) I was wondering why he bothered with the rope until he got to the roof.

If Tappa struggled on it it must be hard.
grubes - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit: Aye Mr Tappa is a bit of a beast (from my meetings) and I imagine his winter season in spain won't of made him any worse ...

Anyway see you friday Nomics I may be a little excited ...
I am also ignoring my company nurses advice and not getting my injections for india till I get back from spain to try and avoid any unwanted illness
Nik Jennings - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit:
I still got the F.A. experience even if it turns out it wasn't an F.A. Obviously it would be nice if it was but that's not going to change what was actually done on the day, and the mindset of it (if that makes any sense??)

Also I do have some footage of Tappa's <ahem>attempts</ahem> at the line, I'm sure with a bit of encouragement I could be persuaded to pop it online... :o)
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Nomics4sale - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to Nik Jennings:

ok I'll bite... oh go on put it up and post the link...
Nomics4sale - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes:

Yep Friday. I am also dead keen to get out there. Bit worried I am unfit as I haven't done much since I got back 2 weeks ago but it will be brilliant to get out there.

Good planning re injections. Priorities in the right place, climbing more important than avoiding disease :-)
biscuit - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to Nik Jennings:

For sure. The psychological difference between doing a line that has been done or doing a line that hasn't, or you don't believe has been done, is huge.

Look how long it took Dave Mac to do Rhapsody and how quick Sonnie Trotter/McClure repeated it.

As for the footage - well i shall leave that to you. After months of crushing 30m+ limestone overhangs it's no surprise he struggled on a quarried grit special.




But it would be good to see him struggle on something for once ;0)
grubes - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to Nik Jennings:
definately post the other footage maybe with some benny hill music in the background?

So whats the deal with the retro claim? Did "Jim" do both lines?
Nik Jennings - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes:
No, someone else has seen the UKB thread and thinks they did the same line a few years ago. They are going to check their dates and such like and let me know.

Just to be clear I'm completely happy for someone to retro claim the line, as I said above it doesn't change anything in terms of my experience on the day. It's a bit personally frustrating, but hey-ho it's just a bit of rock. I'm certainly not in any way pissed off at the retro claimant, if they did the line they did the line. I'm just writing this because I know things can get a bit confused on the internet, it's not a face to face conversation. And someone looking in from the outside could read something between the lines that isn't there...

Anyway the video of Andy's attempt is just processing on the vimeo servers, so probably ready to view in half an hour or so...
grubes - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to Nik Jennings:
Excellent something to do other than sit on my sofa and rest. Think I will be at rokt tomorrow if your about?
Nik Jennings - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes:
I'll be there, but working all evening I'm afraid.

http://www.vimeo.com/61625489
thebigfriendlymoose - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Bit worried I am unfit as I haven't done much since I got back 2 weeks ago but it will be brilliant to get out there.
>

I would not worry. I personally think climbing fitness is more enduring than commonly thought or feared. A lack of form after a break often seems to owe more to mental rustiness than actual physical atrophy - you soon get back into the grove. Eg. I recently went to Turkey. After a summer season at Malham etc, I hadn't done any routes at all for 6 months - just bouldering, mainly indoors. Not exactly the best prep for 35m tufa pitches, but when I got there I found my stamina was not appreciably unaffected by the break and I ended up with a decent haul of routes.
Nomics4sale - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

Hmm yes well I hope that theory works for me too. Sounds like you didn't suffer at all. Of course it could be that you are young and fit so can maintain your fitness rather than descending rapidly into wheezing unfitness like old and shabby me! Anyway, it will be good to get away again and if I try hard then I will be happy. And before you say it yes, I know, age is no excuse, Stevie Haston etc etc!
thebigfriendlymoose - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Young and fit!? I am an extremely creaky 36yo; with the circulation of a pensioner to boot. I climb very slowly, not because I am glorying in stamina, but because that's as fast as I can get my palsied limbs to move (I also have dementia and keep forgetting where I am!). Anyway, good luck in Spain, at least it should be warmer than the UK.
Nomics4sale - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

Ha ha you're a 36 year old OAP!! Not doing you much harm tho, just checked your logbook, some healthy grades in there.
biscuit - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Mental attitude is most important.

After 7 weeks of no climbing to speak of i equalled my best on-sight grade yesterday on a route style i don't normally like. What i have lost physically ( not that much really i don't think ) i made up for with a positive attitude. Good partner, new crag and inspiring lines = better performnce
biscuit - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to Nik Jennings:



He really didn't get very far did he :0p

Obviously not light enough.
Joughton on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to Eagle River: Cheers, it's only the first module of my AS which is only a quarter of the over all grade, but I'm hoping to go to Sheffield or Bristol, maybe Edinburgh if things go well... wish I could go to Manchester but it's really too close to home.
Nomics4sale - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit:

That's really good going! I didn't realise you hadn't climbed for 7 weeks! I'm a bit worried about fitness for Spain because I'm looking to RP a grade harder but yeah if you can do that after 7 weeks off then it should be doable. I know what you mean about psyche, partners, etc, all that should be good in Spain.
grubes - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to Joughton: not bangor?
grubes - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:
If you are redpointing 7as regularly at the wall your fitness is not going to be too bad.
We have 9(/8) days to climb out there you will build route fitness fast.
Hard onsighting might be a struggle but red pointing should not be an issue.
Did I mention I am really excited. I will be looking for the most tufa ish stuff I can find as well as dirty disgusting slabs!
Oh and big stuff like smoking http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=126537 http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_GrSQD8JbjCI/TVFoEv5Ss0I/AAAAAAAAAME/goxUPbceZMc/s1600/Smoking_3.jpg

Oh I was also told this route is a brilliant 7b by ally http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=58519

Picking up my euros today ... Little bit excited :o)
Ali - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: That woman knows everyone! :-)
Ali - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose: I am hoping you are right :-S Can't remember the last time I had a whole month of not climbing!

biscuit - just because you live in a great place, doesn't mean life is perfect - it never is! And we're all entitled to moan and feel down occassionally so don't apologies :-) After all, I've just come from the most amazing holiday which I feel incredibly lucky to have been able to go on and I'm feeling gloomy! Can't please some people ;-)
Ali - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to Joughton: But good motivation to keep up the work - well done! And Edinburgh should def be doable if you carry on like that...
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grubes - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit:
did you do a 6c+ slab then ;) or did you get the elusive 7a?
Nomics4sale - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes:

hmm... you might have mentioned that you are a bit psyched ;-)

that 7b does indeed look very good. I think terredets is a bit tufa-tastic so could be right up your street. Slabs well, I'm sure there'll be something somewhere. I did a fairly scary 6b slab in Feb (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=179973) but I think it isn't scary or run out enough for you!!

biscuit - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes& Ali:

No it was a steep tufa route. I like vertical/slightly overhanging walls with rests. This was a brutal 10m start of tufa wrestling to a hands off then 10m of slippery corner crack finishing in a terrifying layback way above the bolt to reach the chains. Now i look back on it it was a brilliant route.

7a o/s is still elusive due to route reading stupidity.

Ali - thanks. I think i was more frustrated that i wasn't climbing and that was making me a bit miserable. Sun is out today and all is well again :0)
mattrm - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:

Well done on the 7a biscuit. Great progress. :D

My shoulder is slightly less knackered now. Still on the painkillers tho. :/
Joughton on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes: Well I'd really like to do Medicine (probably a death wish for my climbing life for a few years...) and they don't offer that at Bangor. Plus I hear it rains a lot!
grubes - on 14 Mar 2013
In reply to Joughton: Yea it does not as much as scotland though ;) but you have a lot of micro climates near i.e. gogarth and orme.

Fair enough you need to go some where for the course over the climbing.

Edinburgh is good for Ratho and not too far to dumby etc
AJM - on 14 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes:

Can anyone remind us/me who is doing FC the next few weeks? I can't remember if there's another one I volunteered to do or not!
grubes - on 14 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:
24/2 AJM
3/3 AJM
10/3 Ali
17/3 MrChewy
24/3 Jimmykay
31/3 biscuit
7/4 untill end of april grubes

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