/ Recommendations for Lakes climbs up to HVS?

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bonoid - on 10 Mar 2013
Hi
I'm heading up to the lake district in a few weeks and was hoping to tick off a few routes.
Wondering if anybody has got any favourite routes to aim for?

Thanks

Joe
JanBella - on 10 Mar 2013
In reply to bonoid: very good VS-HVS stuff on gimmer crag also on white ghyll . enjoy
GrahamD - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to bonoid:

Depnds exactly when in a few weeks time. You will have to make a call based on the weather. In the North, Shepherds is the obvious 'sheltered' venue.

Gimmer is good but higher up than, say, Raven in Langdale.

A useful 'iffy' weather option to know about is Trowbarrow which is outside the South Lakes but is often climbable when the Lakes itself is clagged in.
A Mountain Journey - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to bonoid: Gimmer is definitely worth a visit if weather allows. Pavey Ark has some fine offerings too. At Raven (Langdale) I found Pluto to be really enjoyable. White Ghyll is an excellent afternoon venue, catches the sun best then.
andrew breckill - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to bonoid: if langdale bound there is the classic middle fell buttress on raven.
Tom the tall on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to bonoid: Overhanging bastion on castle rock, thirlmere; trout dale pinnacle / direct/ superdirect, the mortician, black crag borrowdale. Mandrake , Irony on Quayfoot buttress, borrowdale.

All relatively low altitude/ sheltered for climbing this time of year, lots of new snow on the tops.
Michael Hood - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Tom the tall: You sure about OB, a bit of freeze/thaw isn't exactly going to make that crack on the top any smaller :-(
Tom the tall on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to Michael Hood: sorry, haven't been on it for a while, I assume something's loosened?
a lakeland climber on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to Tom the tall:

There's a big crack along the ground at the top of the crag. At some point there's going to be a bit of rock fall.

ALC
Owen W-G - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to bonoid:

Not done very much in Lakes but Golden Slipper on Pavey has probably the best rock I've ever climbed on
climbingpixie - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to bonoid:

Haste Not at White Gill is superb and feels very unlikely at VS.
Skyfall - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to bonoid:

It's going to be blimmin' cold for a while yet. However, some route suggestions:

Troutdale Pinaccle Superdirect at HVS is great (can wimp out on to the Direct at VS if needs be). Black Crag, Borrowdale. Not v south facing mind so can stay damp a while though ought to be fine after a dry spell even at this time of year. Long route so a good 'objective'.

At Castle Rock, whilst Overhanging Bastion at VS is great, it's on the slower drying north side and there is "that" crack which is v close to OB. Given the time of year (and the crack on the north side), I would suggest heading around to the south side and looking at Kleine Rinne at VS and Gazebo at HVS. The latter in particular is quite underrated imho.

Again, thinking low lying, could always head to Shepherds and look at things like Ardus (MVS), Brown Slabs Crack (VS), Adam (VS), Eve (VS), Kransic Crack (HVS). Don't forget the uber classic Little Chamonix (V Diff).

In Langdale, tons to do on Gimmer but v exposed/windy/cold unless you catch a still sunny day. More tucked away is White Ghyll (White Ghyll Wall is v good at VS). As someone said, Golden Slipper on Pavey at HVS is fab but it's a v high crag so you'd need a good day for it (the main pitch should dry fast though). Nice stuff (lots around Severe) at Raven down near the ODG at the end of the valley.

Or lots in low to mid grades at Wallwobarrow more Duddon way (south Lakes).

You didn't really say where you were going which might help.
victim of mathematics - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to bonoid:

Open guidebook. Pick 3 star route.

They're pretty much all ace.
MFB - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to Skyfall: love white ghyll but White ghyll wall, not that great - better IMO Haste Knot, Gordian Knot, Slip knot, even Laugh Knot
helix - on 12 Mar 2013
Actually I thought White Ghyll Wall was terrific. A surprise at White Ghyll was Moss Wall (VS) - looks horrendous, was in fact excellent.
Baron Weasel - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to bonoid: Laugh Not in White Ghyll. Classic Joe Brown corner crack, great gear and a fight to the top :-)

BW
bonoid - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to all:
Thanks for all the suggestions, good advice on the low lying stuff.
I'm heading up in early April do hopefully it will have warmed up a bit!

Cheers
MFB - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to helix:
> Actually I thought White Ghyll Wall was terrific. A surprise at White Ghyll was Moss Wall (VS) - looks horrendous, was in fact excellent.

sorry can't convince me about White Ghyll Wall it's ok but lots of better routes at that grade in White Ghyll, however Moss Wall is great but a difficult recomendation given title and appearance
Skyfall - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to MFB:

I don't even like White Ghyll particularly but thought WGW was very surprising - the main pitch being an interesting route finding exercise and, well, nice wall climbing. Slip Knot was also v good but, strangely perhaps given its line, less memorable. Those are the besy easy'ish routes I've done there but can't be bothered to argue about it. So much good climbing in Langdale.

If the OP wants an adventure, try The Crack on Gimmer. What condition it will be in in early April who knows, but it's likely to be cold unless we have a mini heatwave.

This article may inspire some thoughts around VS but tends to focus on less roadside stuff so needs better weather on the whole.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=903

Hat Dude on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to Skyfall:
> (In reply to bonoid)

>
> Troutdale Pinaccle Superdirect at HVS is great

The Mortician is better, if just a touch harder. Finish via the finger traverse of the Superdirect to make it even better.

Bilberry Buttress on Raven in Langdale is a good VS.
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Skyfall - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to Hat Dude:

> The Mortician is better, if just a touch harder. Finish via the finger traverse of the Superdirect to make it even better.

I just like the varied styles of climbing on the superdirect (bridging flake, tech wall, steep crack, finger traverse). Regardless, it's funny how the usual finish up the Severe never feels a let down and is good value.

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