/ Rope solo lead climbing with Cinch
I wish you enjoy it and have some ideas to discuss.
Thank you very much
If anyone knows Spanish, and wants to do it, it would be a very big favor.
Looks like a pretty decent system.
I've used a similar set up before, although I prefer to use a mallion to attach the cinch to my belay loop. A bit of elastic over the shoulder can work pretty well to keep things at the right length and to let the rope feed smoothly. I would be interested to see some fall tests, (perhaps done with a top rope back up!).
Good idea with the back up screwgates clove hitched to the rope, although I would suggest there should be a few more closer together for the start of the rope, you have a potential for a big ground fall if the cinch doesn't lock. Also, avoid ropes that are too skinny!
PS, well done with that unusual camera angle, it is better than a helmet mounted view.
Donīt fall upside down.
Every 10m or about, I make a clove hitch knot for security.
I do this with a Gri Gri, but don't put the rope over the shoulder or in a ruck sak. Placeing pro on lead. You need to pull enough rope out to make any moves .
If you are going to put a overhand Knot in the Rope. This needs to be on the live rope and will need untying when it gets to you. So can be awkward.
I usually use a Steel crab as this could be the weakest bit providing the Gri Gri locks off and your trad is good.
Could you let me have some info on what you used to keep the camera in place please? Thanks
Nice setup, could be done with a grigri too. No need to blurr your face...
The backups are on the 'dead' end of the rope, so will not be a part of the system at all unless the belay device doesn't lock
Sorry - my bad. Doing that on the quickdraws sinply stops the rope feeding through the device once there is enough weight on the rope and zipping off below you towards the anchor (a pretty scary moment) - you can do something a bit better (although more fiddly) with a prussik and a rubber band.
I've tried both.
Out of interest, do you tie into the end of the rope as well? (This means there are three strands going up or down the cliff.)
TBH the hardest part of rope soloing in the UK seems to be finding decent anchors for an upward pull - learning when to link pitches is probably the key.
I thought too use a maillon to attach the cinch, is a good idea, but am really quiet with a security carabiner, I employ rubber band to fixe in the harness, the same I use to catch the rope to the quickdraws, the rubber band is enough hard to support the weight of the rope, but not an eventual fall. I made some fall test, 2 meters falling more or less, all made ok with a top rope back up for security. Still no fall only with leading rope solo, but I was nearer in a 6b onsighted hehehehe, am really confident with this setup.
Note*The sling to the pivot hole of the cinch is a bit elastic.
The rubber band is an inner tube of a bicycle.
-The backup clove hitched is the worst of this setup, is for this I put every 10m, I know is better nearer overcoat at the beginning of the pitch, but when I am more than 5 meters to the ground, the possibly of fall to the ground decreases, the system with no clove hitch is almost perfect, but not recommended obviously.
-The setup for recording this camera angle:
-The dead rope is in the rucsack. The backups clove hitch are on the 'dead' end of the rope, so will not be a part of the system at all unless the belay device doesn't lock. The maillon in the chest (the maillon isn't tied to the harness chest, is a sling to the main harness, it binds to the harness chest only with an another rubber band, in case of fall will bloken) really is a protection back up, in case the cinch don't lock and a remote possibility broken with a shock with the knots or carabiners.
-I put the rope in the rucsack because is more comfortable, and is possible to reduce weight if you know the height of the pitch, leaving the surplus in the ground.
-This setup is not possible with grigri, I don't need to pull rope to feed grigri, it comes out of the rucsack easily when am climbing, in fact this is a big problem if you don't put a stopper rubber band on the quickdraws catching the rope (in the video 3:45" and 5:40"). I don't know the Eddie.
I was going to ask what prevents the weight of the rope you've already paid out from pulling out more dead rope, but I suppose the answer is the following, right?:
That must be what you're doing at about the fourth quickdraw up - but you're doing it so slickly I can't actually figure out how you have it rigged up in advance!
Thank you very much! That explains it very clearly.
One general question: have you had the chance to try other devices in your general setup? (For example, the Eddy, as mentioned above; or the Rock Exotica Soloist.) If so, how did you find they compared in practice with the Cinch?
I've solo'd with the grigri (doesn't feed well, but others seem to like it, mabe because its cheap!), the eddy (feeds well on a 9.8mm rope and has caught me in test falls and my only big 'proper' lead fall, expensive though) and on clove hitches (free, reliable, terrifying)
Whatever you use TIE A BACKUP
No, I have only the grigri and cinch, and in my opinion grigri not work well in autofeed.
The cinch works well, exactly as from ground. Works in the same way. The absorber plate (Kisa of Kong)
make the function of belayer to dinamice the falls, and the dinamic rope help as well.
Thanks. I hadn't spotted the use of that in your system.
I think you have come up with an excellent overall arrangement here.
It's similar to that described in http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Training_and_Technique/Roped_Solo_Free_Climbing_-_The_essence_o... and http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=1610582#1610582
I guess you were referring here to the rubber bands on the krabs, right?
I might *guess* that, in a fall, those wouldn't snap, but they would certainly tend to lift the gear out. No problem if using bolts of course; but otherwise a placement which will resist an upwards pull might be wise.
But the rubber bands seem a much nicer solution to this problem than the thin prussiks you referred to above.
> I guess you were referring here to the rubber bands on the krabs, right?
> I might *guess* that, in a fall, those wouldn't snap, but they would certainly tend to lift the gear out. No problem if using bolts of course; but otherwise a placement which will resist an upwards pull might be wise.
> But the rubber bands seem a much nicer solution to this problem than the thin prussiks you referred to above.
Aaaahhhh ok, sorry. Yes, in a fall, the rubber band will broke or not, and tend to lift the gear out. Am only climb with bolts, with gears is totally craziest, is not enough solo in bolts??? hehehehe.
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