/ Scarpa Instinct S
I really liked the scarpa stix, but thought the instinct slippers were a bit too soft, but if thats your bag? I quite like the Instinct lace, took a bit of bedding in.
I've got the new boostics thinking they would be similar to the stix but the rubber is the XS-edge which is harder then the XS-grip. Not really sure about the XSedge feels too hard for grit and maybe smoother UK limestone?
It's worth noting that scarpa (like many others) are generally fading out xsgrip on all shoes in favour of the newer version of xsedge, which they say is not noticably different in grip but just a little firmer anyway.
Quoth the blokes at v12.
Thanks for the feedback guys. So many out their to choose from, think gonna look into it further. Something for bouldering is what I'm after.
> Thanks for the feedback guys. So many out their to choose from, think gonna look into it further. Something for bouldering is what I'm after.
Maybe try the Instinct VS for bouldering. All the reviews I've read say the heal is a snugger fit, and the velcro strap stops the shoe coming off on aggressive heal hooks. One online shop is saying some people are sizing up by 0.5EU compared with their Instinct S size.
I've got Instinct Laces, the Instinct S. For my foot (wide forefoot, narrower heal) both are a great fit. Lace version is stiffer,but feels more supportive around the arch and heal. Slipper is a softer shoe and is quick to take off after you get off a route/boulder problem.
One possible negative is a friend had a pair of Instinct S a few years back, and had problems with the rubber coming off on the top of the toe after some aggressive toe hooking. Not sure of the exact details, but Scarpa may have sorted that issue.
I donīt see any sense in doing that.
I had `em both and the Instinct S feels smaller at the same size. Second thing is, since the Instinct S is fully made of Lorica and the LU is a full leather shoe. So the slipper will stay tighter at the same size because there is a lot less stretch.
To the XS Grip thing.
I have to say iīm pretty happy scarpa is switching to the XS Edge rubber on most shoes. The XS Grip2 wears out fast and itīs edging abilities are worse. Once the Edge rubber is broken in i donīt notice any difference in grip or sensitivity but a lot of advantage on tiny footholds.
Elsewhere on the site
This survey is being conducted by the Outdoor Industries Association in order to find out more about how and why people... Read more
From a personal point of view, photographing the night sky is one of the most difficult, frustrating yet ultimately rewarding... Read more
Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Initially made from... Read more
The Grivel A&D Ascender & Descender is brand new for Autumn 2014 and incorporates a revolutionary and innovative patented... Read more
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more