/ Scarpa Instinct S

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EliC - on 11 Mar 2013
Im thinking of purchasing a pair of Scarpa Instinct Slippers, and was just wondering what the sizing is like? And if the shoe itself is worth buying? Anyone had a negative experience with them I should know about before parting with my cash?
Thanks
C
Ian Broome - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to CrimpShrimp:

I really liked the scarpa stix, but thought the instinct slippers were a bit too soft, but if thats your bag? I quite like the Instinct lace, took a bit of bedding in.

I've got the new boostics thinking they would be similar to the stix but the rubber is the XS-edge which is harder then the XS-grip. Not really sure about the XSedge feels too hard for grit and maybe smoother UK limestone?
neuromancer - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Ian Broome:

It's worth noting that scarpa (like many others) are generally fading out xsgrip on all shoes in favour of the newer version of xsedge, which they say is not noticably different in grip but just a little firmer anyway.

Quoth the blokes at v12.
And Climb on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to CrimpShrimp: I use a pair of the laces which I really like. Mine have just about worn out and that was when I was happiest with them. Very precise and sensitive. The slippers use thinner rubber on the sole than the laces so could wear out faster. They definitely force you to improve your foot work!
EliC - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to CrimpShrimp:
Thanks for the feedback guys. So many out their to choose from, think gonna look into it further. Something for bouldering is what I'm after.
And Climb on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to CrimpShrimp: Have you tried a pair on yet? I dropped 2 uk sizes so from a 10 to an 8 but with the slippers it's probably worth dropping another half size maybe even a full size more. They do have a break in period. Climbing Works is the cheapest place I've seen them.
dwisniewski - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to CrimpShrimp: Not had the slippers but use the lace ups. They are a very good shoe, my only gripe is they aren't the most durable, particularly if like me you use a lot of toe hooks when climbing, the toe rubber goes pretty quick. Size wise, I drop 2.5 Euro sizes for most I would imagine dropping 2 Euro sizes would be best, I've been the same size in Scarpa- Stix, Boosters, and Spectros if that helps at all.
RBK - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to CrimpShrimp: I'm on my first pair of Vapour S's and they've been great, by far the most comfortable performance shoe I've used despite having sized them pretty tight. They are wearing quite fast but not outrageously so. This said my next pair will be the new VS's, it sounds like they address the few issues I have with the S's. I've been a dedicated 5.10 wearer for many years but I'm in danger of turning, at least for some of my shoes.
turtlespit - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to CrimpShrimp:
> (In reply to CrimpShrimp)
> Thanks for the feedback guys. So many out their to choose from, think gonna look into it further. Something for bouldering is what I'm after.


Maybe try the Instinct VS for bouldering. All the reviews I've read say the heal is a snugger fit, and the velcro strap stops the shoe coming off on aggressive heal hooks. One online shop is saying some people are sizing up by 0.5EU compared with their Instinct S size.

I've got Instinct Laces, the Instinct S. For my foot (wide forefoot, narrower heal) both are a great fit. Lace version is stiffer,but feels more supportive around the arch and heal. Slipper is a softer shoe and is quick to take off after you get off a route/boulder problem.

One possible negative is a friend had a pair of Instinct S a few years back, and had problems with the rubber coming off on the top of the toe after some aggressive toe hooking. Not sure of the exact details, but Scarpa may have sorted that issue.
RBK - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to RBK: I meant Instinct S's.... never had a pair of Vapours!
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kingofthering on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to And Climb:
> (In reply to CrimpShrimp) Have you tried a pair on yet? I dropped 2 uk sizes so from a 10 to an 8 but with the slippers it's probably worth dropping another half size maybe even a full size more. They do have a break in period. Climbing Works is the cheapest place I've seen them.


I donīt see any sense in doing that.
I had `em both and the Instinct S feels smaller at the same size. Second thing is, since the Instinct S is fully made of Lorica and the LU is a full leather shoe. So the slipper will stay tighter at the same size because there is a lot less stretch.


To the XS Grip thing.
I have to say iīm pretty happy scarpa is switching to the XS Edge rubber on most shoes. The XS Grip2 wears out fast and itīs edging abilities are worse. Once the Edge rubber is broken in i donīt notice any difference in grip or sensitivity but a lot of advantage on tiny footholds.

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