/ Don Whillans' last climb on youtube

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puppythedog on 12 Mar 2013
found this following a different link earlier. you might find it interesting. Don and Joe together in 1984.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6CTK2hFvrw
Jimbo C - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog:

Thanks very much, that was a real gem.
mountain.martin - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog:

That's great.
Tom Last - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog:

Excellent, thanks for posting.
jimjimjim on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog: I've seen it before but loved watching it again. My hero's.
abseil on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog:

Really great video, both the climbing and the short interview parts, thanks a lot.
Minneconjou Sioux - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog:

Superb.
Jonny2vests - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog:

Nice one.
ice.solo - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog:

great in so many ways, least of all what can be done without chalk.
Michael Hood - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog: Brilliant, I especially like Don's comment on Dennis abbing off one of his shoelaces, something like "amazing that, abseiling with one shoe"
Euge - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog: Fantastic... I like that
Erstwhile on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog:

Great. I remember watching it when it came out, and then soon after the commemoration event for Don up at the Kingshouse (or Clacchaig?) in Glen Coe.
Climbing was so different then, more earthy and less sporty.
Climbing in the semi-wet was perfectly normal.
Al Evans on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog: Thanks for that.
wilkie14c - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Lakeland-Rock-DVD-Chris-Bonington/dp/B000JJRBS6

this is well worth the money and features Don climbing with Chris, I can't for the life of me remember which route they climb but remember its an HVS. I believe Don passed away shortly afterwards as did Bill Peascod.
I remember watching the programme on C4 as a spotty kid and now have the DVD and accompanying book of the series. With all of 5 programmes together lasting nearly 2 hours the price of this DVD is easily worth the money.
From memory:
Bill Peascod on Dovedale Groove
Don Whillans on ??
Pete Liversey on footless Crow
Pete Whillance on somethign mental!
And 2 x females climbing something on something! <sorry ladies>
lummox - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog: Thanks for posting !
GrendeI on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog: Wow, magic!
Bob Kemp - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to blanchie14c:
The Whillans/Bonington one was Dovedale Groove - Peascod did Eagle Front. The Whillance was something on Gable Crag - E5-E6 in the rain if I remember correctly! I believe the women were Jill Lawrence and Gill Price but I can't remember what they climbed.



Bob Kemp - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to Bob Kemp:
Update: a search came up with this old Cumberland and Westmorland Herald review:

http://www.cwherald.com/archive/archive/lakeland-rock-hits-the-stores-19971115223135.htm

Price and Lawrence on Empire.
johncoxmysteriously - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to Bob Kemp:

Whillance is doing Incantations on Gable. Don't remember it raining though. JL and GP are doing Empire on Raven Crag Thirlmere. For students of early-80s sexism Bill Birkett's commentary is a must.

jcm
silo - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog: Thanks you.
ads.ukclimbing.com
wilkie14c - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to Bob Kemp: Thanks! At work and haven't got the book with me to check for my OP
dale1968 - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog: superb!
krikoman - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog:

"the rope's not coming, are you standing on it?"

"Yeah, do you want me to get off it?"

Brilliant!!
Mark Collins - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog: Thanks James, never seen that before.
krikoman - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog: Where's their chalk bags!!!
GridNorth - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog: Interesting that Joe appeared to clip both ropes together into the runners as you would with twins which as far as I'm aware didn't exist back then.
Mark Collins - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to GridNorth: Yes, I used to do that until someone told me why I shouldn't.
Hat Dude on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to blanchie14c:

I'm pretty sure that Bill Peascod died (of natural causes) whilst belaying Whillans on the 1st pitch of Great Slab on Cloggy and that Don died a couple of months afterwards
There is a series of photos of them just minutes before Bill Peascod passed away
anaesthetic on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog: Having seen lots of climbing vids like Dosage series and the like this was a really nice change :) Great stuff!
wilkie14c - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to Hat Dude:
Yes I have seen the same set of photos, I can't remember where though sadly, maybe a climbing mag doing a feature on Bill? If we could choose the manner of our demise then hats off to Bill. His routes in the lakes are a real joy and at a tasty standard for the time too
Simon Caldwell - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to blanchie14c:
Could they be in David Craig's "Native Stones"?
In reply to puppythedog: Brilliant!
Mark Collins - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to blanchie14c: There's at least one in Bill Birkett's Classic Great British Rock Climbs Book. Can't remember the exact title but I did a ticklist of it in the log book if required.
Paul035 - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to krikoman:

Was just going to quote that exact bit.. priceless!

Great wee film
adam11 - on 13 Mar 2013
Yeah..........but what did they ever do on Grit? :)

Thanks, I really enjoyed that clip. An absolute gem.
Darron - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog:

Interesting to note the warmth that developed between them as they climbed. Mates on the rope but not necessarily off.

Wonder what the French would say to Don being described as the "first man to stand on the summit of Annapurna"?

Great vid. Takes me back, 1984 was the first time I did the adjacent Corner - probably in Hanwags too.
puppythedog on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to Darron: I thought that, it was the building of that warmth that made the video for me and led to me posting it.
Baron Weasel - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog: Superb, really enjoyed watching it :-) Thanks for posting it.

I liked the way Joe shouted 'I'm at the top, give me all the slack' - Makes perfect sense as you don't need to be belayed while you build a belay, but might not want to be taken off either.

BW
abseil on 14 Mar 2013
In reply to blanchie14c:
> Yes I have seen the same set of photos, I can't remember where though...

One's in that great book 'The Villain'

You can also see them at these commercial sites [not my sites]:

http://www.stockphotography.co.uk/store/catalog.aspx?ct=1486

http://www.dijitalimaj.com/alamyDetail.aspx?img=%7B445970B0-F991-498C-AB64-D921D9588141%7D
GrahamD - on 14 Mar 2013
In reply to Darron:

Personally I thought it was a great video but the bonhomie looked decidedly put on for the camera.
ads.ukclimbing.com
puppythedog on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to GrahamD: I thought there was a lack of Bonhomie until climbing and that bears true within the biographies I've read that they got on well when engaged in climbing but not outside of that.
Skyfall - on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

> Whillance is doing Incantations on Gable. Don't remember it raining though. JL and GP are doing Empire on Raven Crag Thirlmere. For students of early-80s sexism Bill Birkett's commentary is a must.

Bonners in the gym watching the girls is v funny. You can tell he's never considered training and wants to either go to the pub or get out on the crag. Speaking of which, Bonners with Pete Livesey on Footless Crow and the note incident...
cranc on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog: enjoyed that video, thanks for sharing
martinph78 on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog: Thanks for that, made for a decent half hour :)
mockerkin on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog:

I liked the bit when he says that ultimately just being in the mountains was his greatest satisfaction and that the hard climbing came second.
mattrm - on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog:

I did find it slightly depressing I have to say. Partly cause of the difference between the two, Joe still being fit and able and Don being a bit of a fat old man. But also that he died shortly afterwards. Still a good watch however.
mozzer - on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to mockerkin:

What a moving video. Awesome. Thanks.
Carl Smethurst - on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog:

Where's the pumping hardcore music and the defocused arty shots? Just shows a climbing film can be very straightforward and still hugely entertaining. Well, as long as the subjects are such legends of course.

Thanks for posting.
abseil on 16 Mar 2013
In reply to GrahamD:
>...but the bonhomie looked decidedly put on for the camera.

Yes maybe but when someone points a camera at me I'm shedding bonhomie all over the place.

lagerstarfish - on 16 Mar 2013
Morning all,

It was me who uploaded the vids as the result of a combined effort on the mighty UKB.

This thread http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21548.0.html

As I've said in the blah under the vids, I do not own any of the content and do not have any permission from the makers/owners to post them. In fact, I haven't even attempted to ask permission from the owners - because I'm lazy.

None of the films seemed to be available to buy or view anywhere else and a few people were interested in seeing them.

Of course I will remove them if the owners want me to.

Lagers
Double Knee Bar - on 16 Mar 2013
In reply to lagerstarfish: Mr Starfish, you deserve a medal. Been wanting to see rock athlete for ages and I didn't even realise footage of Whillans like that existed.
Thank you.
JLS on 16 Mar 2013
In reply to lagerstarfish:

Cheers, 'liked that.
stewart murray - on 16 Mar 2013
In reply to Bob Kemp: Just out of interest anyone know why there was no route from the 1960s in Lakeland Rock? The idea behind it was to do a seminal route from each decade 1930s - 1980s but the 1960s weren't included for some reason.
starav on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog:

Thanks for posting this - CLASSIC STUFF!!

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