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Topic - Crest Route routefinding...

Jamie B - on 15 Mar 2013
Must admit, wasn't expecting this to be an issue, always imagined the route would be arrow-straight up the, er, crest. But a bit of a fail on Tuesday has revealed some ambiguity...

The "true line" on the last pitch (as climbed by the FAs?) has a fairly desperate sequence through a bulge. Apparently this has taken a few scalps and at least 2 knowledgeable heads have said tech 7. So is it really V,6 unless the "variation" finish is taken, which seems to shuffle off left somewhere.

My partner didn't see a leftwards option, can anyone help me pinpoint this in relation with the ledge with the spike belay on the arete? Apparently this is level with the "pinnacle" on Intruder/Financial Times, but I didn't see anything I'd have called a pinnacle. The Ciccerone guide doesn't even mention this variation, but talks about a "short wall overcome by a stepped flake-crack", which I assume is the (tech 7?) crux.

It's also apparent that a lot of people (judging by the scratches) are climbing P2 via the arete, which is probably easier and part of Financial Times. I'd also love to know where FT goes beyond there, apparently it climbs the aforementioned pinnacle, but it all looked a bit unlikely to me. (I was on the belay for a while, so had ample opportunity to study it)

I think for future guides we might need (a) a grade reassessment of the "true" line following the groove all the way, and (b) a clear description of the variation for V,6 leaders!
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