/ Yorkshire low to mid grade climbing venue recommendations?

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Chris Sansum - on 15 Mar 2013
Hi all,

I am organising a meet in Yorkshire for my local club. We will be based near Clapham:

http://www.streetmap.co.uk/map.srf?x=373668&y=469019&z=120&sv=373668,469019&st=4&...

NB We won't be a big group (probably not even noticable as a group!).

I was just wondering which crags people recommend for low to mid-grade climbers up there? There will probably be people leading anything from about V-diff to E1.

So which are the uber-classic locations to head for to give us a taste of what is up there? I've climbed at places further east like Brimham, Almscliffe and Ilkley, but just wondered whether there are some nice venues that are likely to be climbable at this time of year a bit nearer to where we are staying? Personally I'm thinking of spending a day at Malham, but I just wondered what else there is with plenty of classic routes at grades that club members would be likely to want to climb (ie v-diff to E1-ish)?

Any info would be useful!

Thanks,

Chris
chalkyjim - on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to Chris Sansum:

Crookrise would fit the bill perfectly.
Jon Stewart - on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to chalkyjim:
> (In reply to Chris Sansum)
>
> Crookrise would fit the bill perfectly.

Yep. Can't think of anywhere as appropriate.
Simon Caldwell - on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to Chris Sansum:
Pot Scar (Oxenber and Feizor are nearby too)
Twistleton
Attermire

for sport, there's Robin Procters within walking distance, and Giggleswick not too far away.
Simon Caldwell - on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to chalkyjim:
Apart from the fact that it's further away than Malham and he was asking for recommendations a bit closer ;-)
Chris Sansum - on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to Toreador:

In fact I meant recommendations closer than Brimham, Ilkley and Almscliffe which I've been to previously...
Chris Sansum - on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to Chris Sansum:

Thanks for all of the suggestions so far by the way - I'm printing the route lists to get an idea...
Bulls Crack - on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to Chris Sansum:

I wouldn't recommend Attermire for that range - a good severe or two and good vs/hvs or two - all short n sharp..nice place though.

Crookrise - as said previously
Wiley Coyote - on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> (In reply to chalkyjim)
> [...]
>
> Yep. Can't think of anywhere as appropriate.
If the are driving to Crookrise Rylstone is not much further and has some classic easier routes such as Detal Slab 'the best severein Yorkshire, according to the old guidebook
Wiley Coyote - on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to Chris Sansum:

Not too sure about Malham the good stuff startsaround E1 so it may be a bit tough for V Diff climbers
Chris Sansum - on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to Wiley Coyote:

Thanks. The logbook shows some good stuff around the VS & HVS level though. I wouldn't expect all members to necessarily head to the same crag anyway.
Bulls Crack - on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to Wiley Coyote:

It's always amusing to see how fast a thread can diverge from the original request!
Wiley Coyote - on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to Bulls Crack:
> (In reply to Wiley Coyote)
>
> It's always amusing to see how fast a thread can diverge from the original request!

Uh?
coldfell - on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to Chris Sansum: I will second Twistleton for trad and Robin Procters for a range of bolted and beautiful location.
John Hunt - on 16 Mar 2013
In reply to Chris Sansum:

Unlesss you get very good weather Giggleswick will be your best bet. The place has a real micro-climate. There are lots of well bolted F5s and 6s. Walked beyond the initial Sector Swans bit to seek out some friendlier climbs. Check out: http://www.theleedswall.co.uk/cms/images/leedswall/ymc/giggleswickscar/giggleswicksport2012.pdf

Twistleton is a fantastic trad location but not if it is windy. Feizor Nick has some lower grade classics and might be worth a look.

Hutton Roof, just over in Cumbria from Kirby Londsdale, also has quality lower grade climbs.
chalkyjim - on 16 Mar 2013
In reply to Toreador:
Apology accepted
Chris Sansum - on 16 Mar 2013
In reply to Chris Sansum:

Ok, I am now equipped with the Yorkshire Limestone guidebook. Hopefully it isn't about to be replaced by new one! Can't wait to hit Malham... Probably one of the first places I climbed, in student days. I haven't been back since, so it will be good to go back as an experienced climber.
Rog Wilko on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to Chris Sansum: Not sure if you said when you were going, but I would go with an open mind at this time of year (at any time of year, come to that). Crookrise and Rylstone can be very bleak in westerly wind weather for example. If you're lucky enough to get northerly winds and some sunshine, there are several good options on the limestone. NW winds - Twisleton can be OK. Pot Scar can be a little suntrap - have climbed there with snow on the ground. Nobody's mentioned Crummackdale with its classic HVSs - good if the wind is easterly. Malham, of course, is the most sheltered of all.
threepeaks - on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:
> (In reply to Chris Sansum)Pot Scar can be a little suntrap - have climbed there with snow on the ground. Nobody's mentioned Crummackdale with its classic HVSs - good if the wind is easterly. Malham, of course, is the most sheltered of all.

Pot Scar is a cracking little venue and just around the corner, you could vist there and Giggleswick in the same day. Then head down to Settle for Fish n Chips at the Fisherman. have a great meet, Dave.
Lankyman - on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:
> (In reply to Chris Sansum) Nobody's mentioned Crummackdale with its classic HVSs - good if the wind is easterly.
Hi Roger - I agree with your suggestions but would add that at this time of year the sun doesn't get onto Crummackdale until quite late in the afternoon. It can be a cold place especially with the more usual westerly winds. Otherwise, a great spot for HVS but not much of quality for the lower grades?
Chris Sansum - on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Thanks. Yes we're heading up there this coming weekend. I'm just hoping now that there are going to be some people on the meet who want to climb, and it isn't just walkers (my usual climbing partners are all busy)...
sarahjk - on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to Chris Sansum:

What is the best guidebook for the area, particularly lower grade stuff ?
Lankyman - on 22 Mar 2013
In reply to sarahkeast: the YMC definitive Yorkshire Limestone guide (2005) (if you like limestone).
Tall Clare - on 22 Mar 2013
In reply to Chris Sansum:

Crookrise looks utterly minging today. Snow's just started again.

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