/ UKC Fit Club week 313

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mrchewy - on 17 Mar 2013
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (312) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=540835

Posters:
Ali - Good effort getting straight back on a climbing wall whilst jet-lagged. Hope Liz didn't push you too hard on the Sunday.
Daniel Heath - A flat week? 4 sessions of bouldering won't have hurt and writing a new food plan will have you at fighting weight quick enough. I need to explore this idea.
deacondeacon - Plenty of climbing again, inc limestone. The skateboard session will work other muscles and add to the fun count, good to see a new sport logged on Fit Club.
grubes - 15hrs indoors in 5 days is going some - you should be crushing in Spain!
Si dH - We have a new skier in the house! Not too much falling by the sounds of it and another hobby to buy kit for. Sounds like you had a solid trip to Font. STG - Comes the Dervish?
NMN - Nice steady week again with no work disruptions. Any specific targets once trad season starts?
AJM - A rounded out session like that will help keep you ticking along nicely and 46 pullups in 5min is dreamland to someone like me. That 7b should go if made the focus next time. Did you manage to make a cup of tea?
Nomics4sale - Always nice to isolate routes you'll enjoy working, Space Race is 7b+ right? Surely Sunday's run should have ended in the ODG and not started there!
Eagle River - It's quite inspiring hearing someone so keenly psyched for overhanging limestone, routes should start to tumble soon. Maybe there should be a Fit Club Malham meet this year.
Ian Bell - How's the injury? Nice work on the 6c+ onsight despite that. Just don't push things too soon and hold back recovery with a trip so near.
leon - 4x4s always seem to kill my skin. A nice example of a solid week's training but the training cycle must be coming to an end soon?
DoctorU - Under the weather and still pushing. That'll pay off soon enough and it's always good to get volume in.
JimmyKay - Good to see exercise fitted in when you've been so busy. Like the way you count your dynamic movements, I've just started doing the same myself but hadn't thought to log static time.
mattrm - Saw your thread e.e. injury. Making sure I eat protein at the right times and getting enough sleep helps me hugely. Don't get too despondent, things turn round eventually. I know this from experience.
Kevster - Shame about Scotland but at least you missed out on fulmars puking over you! Work will often get in the way, making weekends so important. I guess you'll visit White Spider again?
IainRUK - Harz National Park sounds okay and plenty of snow at such a low height. The XC skiing should help the core muscles.
maria85 - Not such a lazy week! Can't help with the falling issue as rarely do routes. Maybe get into the clip position and then hold it for a while after clipping, if you know you can hold on for longer than needed, then the problem will go away? I often stop mid boulder problem and hang on a straight arm as I lacked confidence in my ability to just hold on.
Exile - There's a fair few of us who seem to be fairly decent at this juggling malarky. Nice to hear the climbing's going well and there looked to be a fair bit of volume last week.
pork pie girl - Did the chiro visit help? Another packed week and good to see you enthusiastic about working a route for the next 2 years - hopefully it will go long before then!
ally smith - 64 pullups in 5min? Outstanding! Looks like the finger-boarding is coming along nicely and just at the right time too. 6.9% BF is nothing to be disappointed with.
seankenny - How has the healing gone with the antibiotics? They can leave me quite run down on their own. Good to see you post anyway.
Luke Owens - 5 rest days? Put some effort in man. Seriously, maybe the star turn this week with the new route. Nice little video and it looks pretty varied in it's climbing. Why that name? Top, top work.
kylieo - Nice to see ambition on the 4x4 6c+ and having the sense to downgrade a little. View rest and recovery as training, not a separate thing and planning for it helps hugely.
Jamming Dodger - Nice work on the two runs and a climbing session. It would have been easy to skip Sunday's run with the weather etc, so top effort. A good week all round.
biscuit - Always grand to get to a new crag and find a climb you really like, 40m sports 7a sounds horrific mind! Glad the one legged squats seem to be helping, just don't get lazy at them once they've done their thing. I think that's what cost me lately.
Joughton - Sterling work for the AS results Jake, you only get one shot at them, so well done and same on the 7c+ onsight indoors. Did you get hot aches at Raven Tor? It doesn't count as a cold day otherwise and unless they come mid crux, they can't be used as an excuse. You'll make a winter climber one day if you carry on...
mrchewy - TRY HARDER!






mrchewy - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: Just wanted to say, it was a pleasure doing this but I've been at it since 6.30am - it takes a bit of effort but is immensely rewarding. So if you've never done this it like I hadn't, have a think about stepping in and helping out at some point.
I'm guessing it would take maybe an hour and a half if it was a regular thing. My sincere thanks to everyone who's took the lead before.

Kelvin
AJM - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Thanks mrchewy! Yeah I think it took me about an hour to 90 minutes last time but I'm sure it was down to well under an hour when I used to do it regularly.

Will post up later, intending to actually go do some climbing training today so don't want to post too early!
Jamming Dodger on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: Thanks for posting Kelv. I sooooo didnt want to get up from that couch but someone was making too much noise for me to sleep so off out for a run it was. And satisfying it was too. Thanks for being a noisy bstrd :)
Monday: Travelling and not a lot else.
Tuesday to Friday: 28 miles bike each day (= 112 miles). Not driving has its perks.
Saturday: 11.5 mile run. The last mile really hurt, which is a surprise since I felt fresh as a daisy after last sundays 8 miles...
Sunday: Sore hips... I think I need to sort that out before it literally stops me in my tracks.
Still, exercise wise, a better week than of late. Ive lost 13lb since the middle of December (albeit I was exceptionally blobby at that time) and have 8lb to go to my target weight, which im happy about.
May go for a swim this eve, as I reckon that will help with the aches and give my upper body a long overdue workout.
Off to pick up the cross bike now. Finally!
Have a good week, all. H
Si dH - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:
Thanks mate. Definitely keen for more skiing in future although not going to be buying any of my own kit yet - the lift passes are expensive enough! :)

STG (spring): Onsight at least 2-3 new E2s on grit then try to get maybe 2 grit E3s done. Also do an E3 in Wales while away over Easter (possibly on slate).
MTG (summer): Onsight at least 3 E3s & maybe an E4 on peak limestone and at least 2 E3s further afield eg Wales or South coast. Redpoint at least 1 F7b/+ to help keep fitness levels up.
LTG (autumn): Onsight another 3 E3s on grit and an E4 either on limestone or grit.


M: Fingerboard session
T: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Did all but one of the latest problem set. The last one should go with a bit of effort I think too.
W: Fingerboard session - fairly short.
T: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Focussing on a bit of power endurance and stamina - fairly unstructured, I just kept climbing steep V2/3 problems without much rest for a while, then finished off with some 5-10 minute traverses.
F: Nothing - ill
S: Nothing - ill
S: Nothing - ill

Mixed week for obvious reasons - started well but since Friday lunchtime I've had a belter of a cold that isn't improving yet. Not much fun. I also ate far too much on Thursday night at a friend;s birthday and ate badly on Friday as well so some weight gains made in the early part of the week have been lost. I'm too heavy at the moment.
Btw, yes Comes the Dervish is something I'd like to try, it looks awesome - but I don't want to put the pressure on by identifying specific routes. Keen to go there and see what looks good. Other slate options abound - Colossus, Poetry Pink, German School Girl etc, so if we go there I'm sure I'll have a good time :)

Si
Si dH - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

> ....Did you get hot aches at Raven Tor? It doesn't count as a cold day otherwise and unless they come mid crux, they can't be used as an excuse.


PS lol! :)
Ian Bell - on 17 Mar 2013
Hi there

Wish I had listened to your advice in advance...

T - Did some 8 or so 6b ish routes. Stopped early as shoulder was hurting.

Rest of the week been resting it, have made things worse by trying to do too much. Hopefully with another weeks rest, a support and anti inflammatories I'll be OK for tenerife.

Flying Sat next week so won't be posting for a few weeks. Goal 1 is to be OK to climb and not break myself. If (big if) the injuries are OK then would be good to do a couple of 7as while I'm there. Could be ambitious though as only been climbing twice in 2 weeks.

Lots of good efforts from everyone as always but 7c+ OS last week was particularly impressive!
Joughton on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: Cheers mrchewy, thanks for putting the time in! I would volunteer to do a couple of weeks but I'm stupidly busy with college work at the moment. I'll try a take a few weeks over the summer though if needed.

Yes I did get hotaches! but I was only bouldering so they came on after I'd fallen off, so no excuses there - my excuse is that the holds were damp...

Good week for me, back competing again which was fun after some much needed time away from it all. Still really want to get out though, this weather is driving me crazy!

Mon - rest
Tue - bouldering at rockover, not feeling very strong. Best was flashing one V6, but I also fell off the really powerful V4s so I need to keep getting stronger. Finished the session on the woodie, managed to do some hard links that felt impossible for me at first try then slowly worked into submission.
Wed - rest
Thur - quick session bouldering at home, mostly out of boredom!
Fri - rest
Sat - northwest regional comp, went really well. We'd have to wait for ages to do our first route (a 6b) so we went straight to our second, about 6c+. I was up first and flashed it but a bit sketchily, which made me nervous, but everyone else looked sketchy too. We then went straight on to our last route, supposedly 7c. I was up last so had to watch everyone fall off about halfway up before my go. Felt pretty nervous setting off but I did the move everyone had fallen off pretty easily which boosted my confidence enough for me to flash it, the crux was actually higher up. Felt like my trad climbing came in handy as I down climbed from the crux three times, each time going a little higher before eventually committing, shaking out each time on the rest section. After that we all got up the 6b then did the bouldering section. I flashed the first two problems, but then the last problem was stupidly hard (V8?) and we all fell off the first move so in the end I won by a long way which was nice... Sorry for the stupidly long report! Oh and after I finished I flashed the girls hardest route, about 7b, and did my first V8 indoors, which definitely wasn't V8!
Sun - rest

Cheers, Jake
deacondeacon - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:


Thanks for looking after fitclub Mr Chewy

Last weeks goals:
2 E2's and 3E1's Not quite but weather stopped play 1E2 and 4E1's
a new indoor f7a- nope only had one routes session and didn't get on any 7's
1 proper works woody session -Yes
Start a home pull up/ push up routine- no, just didn't get round to buying a pull up bar
1 skateboard session-no

Next weeks goals:
3E2's and 3E1's
New indoor 7a
Start a home pull up/push up routine
1 skateboard session

STG-indoor f7a+ redpoint and a couple more F7A's on grit.

MTG-few routes on my wishlist, long johns slab, archangel, the rasp. (by end of april)

LTG- consolidate E4, at least 10 (by the end of 2013)

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Mon-Foundry routes up to 6c

Tue-bouldering at the works

Wed-Stanage trad up to E2
Fate E2 5c
Teenage Lobotomy E1 5b
Cent E1 5b


Thu-Burage North trad up to E1
Windjammer E1 5b

Fri-Bouldering at the works

Sat-Windgather trad up to E1
South Buttress Arete Direct E1 5b

Sun-Bouldering at the works

-----------------------------------

Pretty average week tbh with a mixture of indoor and outdoor climbing. Only one E2 but 4 E1's. The day at Burbage just didn't go very well due to the weather and I only managed to get one lead in. Then on Saturday trying to find somewhere dry, we ended up at Windgather and it's only got one E1. Should have tried to get out this afternoon as it's drying up but have just trashed myself indoors. Oh well hopefully next week will see a bit more success and all the indoor bouldering sessions felt good.
mrchewy - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:
Mon - Saturday. Zilch, nowt. Work (a couple of 15hr days) and a 9pm finish yesterday, a visitor from Aus and stuff to sort mean I was rather waylaid. Not gonna beat myself up about it as the week before was okay.
Sunday - Utterly beasted myself at the wall. Routes for a change...
TRoped clean 2x3, 2x4+, 5+, 6a, 4.
Second 5+ clean and 6b+ till failure.
TRoped till failure (around 3/4th clip) 6a, 6b+, 2x6a+, 6b.
Bouldered 6xV0 no rests, 9xV0 no rests.

Nothing left in my arms or fingers from today's session and the knee is a bit sore, the brace did it's job tho. First time on a rope for a couple of months, so expected to be pretty dire but was really happy with what I did, failing usually after boulder room height.
Had neat feet and spotted all the moves quickly - huge improvement to be honest in that department.

Just before I got injured, I felt like I was about to make a decent jump forwards and today felt a bit like that again. I see the moves, feel comfy but just don't have the strength to grip or pull. So this week I need to get on the finger board for a session and try some of the V1s, whilst watching the knee ligament as it's a bit inflamed now.

Goals.
I did say I'd like to have got on a 7a by year's end but I think that may be beyond me with how the year's started. The knee will always be an issue now, plus the limited movement in my wrist means I'm always going to struggle (I think) from 6b upwards. I'm 48 in Sept... so realistically, I'm going for 7a by my 50th.
The trad goals I feel a lot happier about as my feet have neatened up loads whilst repeating the V0s. Was supposed to be away this weekend but work and weather said no - probably made more gains at the wall anyway.


mrchewy - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to Joughton: Nice work at the comp chap.
AJM - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

> AJM - A rounded out session like that will help keep you ticking along nicely and 46 pullups in 5min is dreamland to someone like me.

Id like to get back to basically 50, which was pre-xmas, and then push on up - might try Allys new 3-pullup sets approach to it and see if that makes it harder or easier.

> That 7b should go if made the focus next time.

Well, i had another session at the warehouse, but it wasnt my main focus and probably should be.

> Did you manage to make a cup of tea?

Yes! Well, at least, all the things are in place for tea to be made - I've retreated indoors for dinner rather than make cups of tea arbitrarily ;)

So anyway my week:

Wednesday I think it was I went to Warehouse. Rammed! Did some warmups, tried to repeat last weeks 7a but fell off at the crux, graunchy getting my foot high and banged my knee. Then had to get on a 7c because there wasn't much else free. Actually quite pleased with the sorts of moves I managed up to my high point, but got stuck at some blind feet. Top is the crux though. Heard its maybe more like 8a from some. Then tried to onsight the other 7a - fell at the crux, drained myself making the clip and then had a foot too high. Did it second go. Frustrating, I'd have skipped the clip until after the move if it wasn't the third - its what I did on my second go but hard to do that on the onsight with the ground so close. Got back on the 7b got to the crux then fell off, did it in two. Then it started to go downhill a bit, second attempt was worse, then fell off trying to repeat the 7a whilst pumped, then fell off things I was trying to aerocap which was all a bit embarrassing. Perhaps a sugar crash - everything just felt desperate.

Friday night I hit TCA. Good session, bunch of stuff to warmup then hit the reds, not sure how many I managed, maybe 10. Nails compared to the circuit they replace! Battered by the end.

This weekend has been a weekend of solid van. And I've made really good progress. Got the last of the cupboard doors in, build a housing for the grill, a metal-lined cupboard-within-a-cupboard for the gas cylinder, got the water pump and switch working, tidied some cables and pipes, which combined with getting the gas working earlier this week means I have the kitchen more or less complete. Still shelves to add and things but it's now at a stage I could take it away and use it. Very chuffed. http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10100491337028820.1073741827.36917815&type=3 might work to see it?

And my god it was hard work! I feel like I've had a full body workout, I guess because it's nearly complete everything seemed to need to be supported or drilled at a weird angle in an odd way. I recall one particularly special moment lying inside a cupboard holding a static core position in order to avoid the sill at the base of the cupboard door with my side, jam my head against the ceiling (grill mount) to support it and release both hands in order to fiddle in the screw that was needed to support the whole enterprise. My lower back and core feels a bit beaten from the whole endeavour.

I was going to train today, ambitiously treble the volume from last week, but I've decided that I'll get a better session if I ignore the arbitrary distinction of it being Sunday and wait until tomorrow when I'm more recovered.

Goals for next week are to get 3 sessions indoors, maybe even go outside, get the paperwork underway on the van and do some shelving and other odd jobs.

London folk - I should be in London on Saturday. If anyone is about and fancies a wall session, maybe early afternoon, give me a shout. Preferences either Westway for the lead walls and because it's the right side of London for me, or Biscuit Factory because I have a carnet to use up, although I could be persuaded on elsewhere, say Mile End for a nostalgia trip or similar, if people had strong views.

Things are coming together. Once the van paperwork is done the time pressure eases back because the first big trip (ie longer than a weekend, when it actually needs to be complete by) is start of May, and that means I can have a life that's not work/sleep/van again, which means trips outdoors and ramping the indoor volume up - the van might be pimped for Ceuse, but the routes won't be any easier as a result...

AJM - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

Oops. Only meant one paragraph to be bold...
AJM - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

> Maybe there should be a Fit Club Malham meet this year.

I'm starting to think I'm ready for a return trip again. Be nice to finish Obsession (not that I can remember any of it from last time really!) and do Space Race and Yosemite Wall and things if they are dry. Be dead psyched for Kilnsey too.

Most of the Malham-ites on here are local day trippers rather than weekenders aren't they...?
mrchewy - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM: The kitchen looks very neat chap, nice clean lines. I'm quite impressed actually.
AJM - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Thanks! There's plenty of rough edges but I'm not going for perfection - stuff which looks nice at first glance and is useable works for me :)
IainRUK - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

So final hard week training.. 2 weeks to 100k so starting taper now.

http://eryridiaspora.blogspot.de/2013/03/anglo-celtic-plate-100k-preview.html

m: 14 mile road run at 6:50 pace
t: am: 4.5 miles road. pm: track 3 x 1 mile reps, 8 miles total
w: am: 4.5 miles road run. pm: steady 9 on road..
t: am: 4.5 miles. pm: track.. 300,400,600,400,300m reps with matched rest, then five mins jog then repeat.. 11 miles total
f: am: 4.5 miles road run. pm: 7 miles trail run. 40 mins in gym on bike.
s: am: 11.5 miles at 6:20 pace. pm: 4.5 steady road run
s: 10.4 miles rostocker forest
Sankey - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: Two weeks to report. Cracked some indoor circuits and had a trip up to Scotland for some easy winter routes. Short term aims are stay in shape for at least some more 6c redpoints in a coming week in Spain, and as a medium aim get a project at e.g Malham for the spring and breaking into the 7's hopefully...

M:Static Bike 8 km
T:Static Bike 8 km
W:Circits at the Edge (ticked F5+, F6a and F6b+ worked F6c+)
T:Static Bike 8 km
F:
S:Edge: TR F5+, F6a+, F6b then ticked the F6c+ circuit
S:Matrix then drive to Scotland

M:NW gully Stob Corie nam Beith -up and down(!) 400 m of II/III as top pitch was too thin for me to lead without some decent ice screw placements
T:Boomerang Gully SCNL
W:Ledge Route then Ben Nevis summit and Corie Leis descent
T:Drive back
F:very sore legs due to all the front pointing up and down rock hard neve
S:ditto
S:Works: 40 problem easy bouldering circuit then F6b circuit which I had failed a few times before going to Turkey, worked the F6c+/7a circuit


STG: At least 6c RP in Spain

MTG: Sport 7a project

LTG: ?
Eagle River - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

> Most of the Malham-ites on here are local day trippers rather than weekenders aren't they...?

day trippers, mid-week raiders, weekend warriors, obsessively running through entire route sequences through our heads whilst sat at our desks at workers....
mattrm - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Thanks mrchewy.

Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening

STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 12st 4lbs TICK
Mostly failed - 2 cardio
Light breakfast, Soup for lunch, sensible evening meals - yup
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain 11st

Weight - 12st 2lbs (5lbs loss)

M - W - Rest
T - 250m swim
F - S - Rest
S - 250m swim

Not been the best week. Put my foot through the ceiling on Tuesday when putting insulation in the loft. Shoulder is pretty stuffed. My foot is getting much better, so planning to start back to the running this week. Managed to get down to the pool a couple of times. Fixed the ceiling. The loft is half done which is good. However, loosing 5lbs is pretty good. So I'm happy about that. Very happy.

Goals for next week:
1 swim, 1 run (ideally fell), 1 core, 1 climb, 3 stretch and relax
ads.ukclimbing.com
AJM - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

Isn't that just how all climbers are?

I was thinking more in terms of trying to find partners for two days up there. Not sure if the missus will be keen so might be reliant on meeting people up there.
grubes - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: thanks it was hard work
STG (Mar 2013):
More than 1 7 in spain maybe a grade push
MTG (July 2013)
Climb harder than 7a in UK and abroad.
Lead E3 try onsight
LTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Great wall at squamish
7b
E3/4
Weight loss!

This Weeks Goals:
Rest - tick
Fly to Spain - tick
First 7 of the trip by the end of sunday - fail

M: Rest
T: Rest
W: rest
T: Rest
F: fly to spain
S: tres ponts. Warmed up on the hardest 6a ever (6b+?). Next up I tried a slabby 7a got all the moves but one trying it on lead. Another go up on lead fell on the crux move pulled past rest clean to the chains. Stripped as it was sharp and did not want to split a tip again.
Tried a steep 7a but was too tired for the crux
S: raining am. Lazy morning the headed to camarasa after a trip to the pastry shop for pain au chocolat. Bit damp so got on a steep 7a+ to work on lead. Got all but one move first time up. Rest another got a sequence for the crux but not strong enough for the move while holds were wet. Next tried to onsight a 6c fell on the crux pulled back on did the move flashed the rest. Rested up the ticked 2nd go. Next tried a pocketed wall at 7a felt nails I spelt tired stripped after 2nd go up

Next week goals
Crush!

Been trying everything onsight then moved to working stuff feeling at my limit
grubes - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM: fit club meet could be fun
Eagle River - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Thanks for your efforts mrchewy, good write up of last week.

STG: 7c by April 2013
MTG: Raindogs

Mon: indoor routes. One of those sessions to forget. New routes were up so I failed miserably on a 7b+, failed a little more positively on a 7c, failed high up on a 7b, failed high on a 7a+ and fell off the top of a 7a. A full complement of failures and one of the most hilariously poor sessions I can remember.

Wed. Cheeky mid-week malham trip. Full on redpoint attempts on Tremelo. First attempt I fell off (nice big fall) after hitting the crux crimp trying to swap feet. unnecessary foot swap so I refined that beta. Second attempt I got through the crux, up to the last 3m traverse left to the belay and my foot popped off. Huuuge fall with plenty of swearing. My sequence for that bit was stupid so no wonder my foot popped. Third attempt fell off at crux as I'd powered out by then. Sorted out a much better sequence for the top (thanks to my partner) and left it for the day.

Sat: Malham. One route was wet. Tremelo. Went up for a look anyway but the entire crux area had water running down it. Some holds were OK but the hand holds to clip off after the crux and the next 4 footholds were all soaking so it wasn't on.
Got on Space Race instead, familiarised myself with it making good links but too tired for the redpoint. Would get straight on redpoint attempts if it's dry and tremelo wet in future.

So, pretty gutted to have missed my window of opportunity for Tremelo given that it'd have been my goal achieved early and in the meantime, if it stays wet, I've not much else at 7c to look at so would probably get back to falling off raindogs. Not the worst situation to be in.
Eagle River - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

There are enough keen people that you could book in with. I usually do one day of the weekend, Pork Pie Girl is immensely keen and usually does at least one day there, nomics has been known to appear occasionally, grubes shows fleeting interest sometimes....
grubes - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to Eagle River: I want pretty regular before grit season but while its been brassic would rather boulder on the grit
Eagle River - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes:

You see, That's where you're going wrong :-)
Jamming Dodger on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: Keep forgetting to put my goals. Which seem to change from one week to the next. Anyway, its my birthday at the end of April which gives me roughly 5 weeks to truly get shot of this weight and it also times quite nicely with when it'll be warm enough to wear... this...
http://www.teamestrogen.com/prodCI_12041.html
Which i have hanging up on my door already but am saving it for when ill look less chunky. Not that im huge now, but that suit is very unforgiving.
So, goal from now until end of april is to lose 8lbs and tone up my mid-section. Ive got some weekly core sessions booked with a friend who is also a thai boxing instructor so he'll knock me into shape and keep an eye on my progress.
Other goals will follow later. Giving up on the 7a myself for now, since im simply not climbing enough. Maybe thats one to focus on after Operation Premiata.
My diet has been pretty exceptional this week, hence the weight loss and im allowing myself one alcohol blow out on Good Friday. Apart from that no drinking (which I never do at home anyway).
useful on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: I like your self-flagellation! :D But remember Yoda's Motto: Do. Or do not. There is no try :P
In regard to pushing through it, a "lazy" week seems to have paid off already:
M 11/3 Nowt (lazy, lazy) a late evening in the office.
Tu 12/3 Warrington (containing my previous 6b Nemesis...) - generally pushing quality rather than quantity tonight, including 2 6bs led, with the Nemesis led clean! All this, despite my middle left finger starting to ache a bit, although I think it's muscular rather than tendon because it's not affecting my climbing...
* 5TR Warm up, 6a TR, 6aL, 6bL Dogged (1 rest, 1 arete "cheat"), 6aL, 6bL (the NEMESIS - Clean!), 6a+L failed (I think I was supposed to use the features more?), 6a TR
We 13/3: my 1HR Buckley run (5.75 miles) took 54 minutes, 3 mins faster than before! My calf muscles didn't ache any less, though... followed by a recovery chicken burger in the pub.
Th: Long drive home and a BK chicken burger meal (getting healthy!)
F: 14/3 weigh in: 77.8kg, 16.5%, another kilo lost in 2 weeks (even though I'm not really trying, which is nice!).
Sa: 16/3 Took 7yo Lizzie somewhere new to climb: Oxford Brookes Centre of Sport. A nice mix of kid-friendly bouldering, harder bouldering, short easy (up to 6b) top ropes and some interesting lead walls. Would've been nice to have climbed the latter! If anyone's around the area and can belay me while entertaining a 7yo, I'd be interested :D So I climbed a handful of mainly V0 and V1 routes easily. Another burger for tea, this time at GBK Oxford (the diet's not looking healthy this week, but I am eating vegetables too!)
Su: Nothing today except a quick walk up a local 200m ascent hill and down again (and shopping).
--
STG:
Submit report on Sunday - achieved for the second time!
Fall off 6b regularly - I may have to change this to falling off 6c instead, but need to watch that finger...
MTG:
Be fit for Kalymnos - I'll keep an eye on that finger, but nothing's giving me the fear at the moment. Also, the clocks change soon and it'll be outdoor cragging time at Maeshafn/Llanddulas Cave! YAY!
Learn to trad lead - maybe next month at this rate. :/
LTG:
Can't remember, but the short termers are keeping me entertained for the moment.

Right, back to packing up for the next 2 weeks away again...
NMN - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Thanks mrchewy.
Once I'm getting out regularly again I guess it might be good to have some specific progression routes to work towards and tick?


Running goals:
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Wasdale - get round.

STG:
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
MTG:
Push trad grade.
LTG:
Lead a tough E1.


M: am - indoor routes.
M: pm - 1.88m treadmill, 14.8%.
T: am - 9.65m trail/fell run, 1,005ft.
T: pm - 2.50m road run, 0ft.
W: am – 2.95m hills, 1,749ft.
W: pm - 2.50m road run, 63ft.
T: – nothing.
F: am – indoor routes.
F: pm - 7.09m road run, 172ft.
S - 5.03m road run, 63ft.
S - 4.10m road run, 37ft.
Ali - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: Thanks mrchewy!

Not a bad week, but felt hard getting back to the training after time off, particularly at the wall.

M - nothing
T - Street orienteering - not a bad run, legs felt like they were going to give out after 40mins but managed to keep going for the full hour and a sprint finish for an extra 10 points!
W - nothing
T - Biscuit Factory - managed to do a few v4s, but felt very rusty - they felt hard work and not flowing at all. Pretty tired after a short session and my feet hurt from being back in rock shoes!
F - nothing
S - orienteering training - probably covered around 13km doing various exercises then a head to head race. Felt pretty tired by the end, buth found the nav exercises really useful
S - orienteering race - unfortunately the training didn't seem to pay off today. Made quite a few errors (including getting to number 6 before number 5!) and couldn't seem to get my head around the map. Disappointing. Tried to do some core work, but core already tired!

Felt really achey all week - 4 weeks off definitely has had an effect. Should get easier this week hopefully...going to concentrate on running fitness for next couple of weeks in advance of orienteering competition in a few weeks.
Daniel Heath - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Thanks for putting the time in mate. The first one does take a lot longer.

I had laser eye surgery this week, which is pretty liberating for my climbing. However it enforced three rest days (they advised 2 weeks rest but you know how it is...)

M-
T-
W-
T-Worked a new 7b+ circuit
F-BIG sesh. got the 7b+ first go, then did it every 15 min until failure - at the 10th set. I enjoyed the exhilaration of trying to rest "faster" to get another set out, and the unkown of how far I could go. It was also good practice calming my nerves before each set, as I really didn't want to ruin an attempt due to a foot slip.
S-
S-7b+ feels easy now. Messed about on trying to link it into a 7a+. Also worked the 8a a bit more.

I believe my endurance is still improving. I'm so excited to test it more indoors and out!

I will be absent next week (probably)

Many thanks
Dan
Jamming Dodger on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath: So the eye surgery was a success? Can you see perfectly now? I have a friend who is considering it but she's after anecdotal evidence that its a good idea before she takes the plunge. Brave decision to have to make id imagine.
Si dH - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Good news on the eyes Dan if its helped you a lot!
Silly question, but what do you do while resting for 15 minutes between goes indoors?? I get bored after about 3 mins standing about at the wall so.never rest anything that long...
kylieo on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Thanks mrchewy, I do kind of plan for rest but it still makes me feel lazy!

Monday - one of those days where nothing works. Fell off a 6b, gave up on a 6c, had another go at a 7a+ and failed a 6c. The second 6c will go sometime soon. The 7a+ may if I don't get bored of it and give up.
Tuesday - conditioning and fingerboard. Bleurgh, still rubbish.
Wednesday - boulder circuits then 4 routes back to back - was aiming for 6a,6b,6b+,6c but it was busy and they weren't free so ended up being 6a,6b,6b,completely mess up a 6c and finish on the 6b instead. Oh well.
Thursday - conditioning.
Friday - bouldering and 20/10s, offsets and touches on campus board. Had a horrible headache that hurt whenever I jumped down from boulder problems so that didn't work very well.
Saturday-Sunday - nothing. Should have been routes today but partner was sick.

Another mediocre week, I feel like I've been fighting a cold all week so have been lacking energy.

This week's plan is to get the 6c from last week and have another bash at the 7a+. Plus an endurancey session, a strengthy session and a fingerboard session. Also find some motivation and stop making excuses.
Daniel Heath - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to Jamming Dodger:

Bit early to say at the moment. Everyone has a different experience and there is some risk, but most people are very happy with it.

My personal experience:
Eyes not as sore as expected after surgery, walked round with a thin buff over my eyes for the day.

2nd day perfect - tested and was at least 20/20.
3rd day worry - left eye blurry
4th day much better, just getting used to focussing.

Now day 6, my eyesight feels slightly less than perfect, but it's by far better than not wearing glasses, and it's good enough for everything I do.

I have noticed some halos in dim light (a common side effect). I'll update you next week after my next eye test if you want.

In conclusion I would recommend it for sure (optical express). If a second surgery is need they do it for free.
mrchewy - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to DoctorU: Yoda? They call me Jedi down the climbing wall but I have no levitation skills.
Jamming Dodger on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath: Yeah do report back and let us know how it goes. Perhaps on a different thread though... Im sure a lot of people on here have considered laser surgery at some point (not myself, dont need it).
Daniel Heath - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to Si dH:

That was funny, the first time I was a bit bored but wanted to give myself the best shot of doing it 3 times in a session.

Each rest I took off my shoes and got stuck in a guidebook or an old Steve McClure article from Climb.

Then as I got more tired all I wanted to do was sit there and shake out and 15 min didn't feel long enough!

This clearly isn't a textbook session like 4x4, but it felt worthwhile.
Daniel Heath - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to Jamming Dodger:

Ok will do. I've seen a few threads in the past but I suppose a newer anecdote is always good. Thanks
mattrm - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to Jamming Dodger:

I've deffo considered it. Not sure if it's possible for me.
biscuit - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Cheers Chewy.

I used to be able to get it done in about 45mins once you're in the swing. It takes a long time when you don't know what people have been doing and have to read backstories in order to do comments.

Not a bad week, i feel like i am getting back in the game.

M - I detailed this last week but i basically onsighted a 6c+ in my anti style and just missed a 7a onsight putting clips in due to route a reading error on a 40m route. Also got a few 6b-6c onsights too. Great day.

T - a.m. Antagonists: 1 leg squats, YLWT's, Core, Complexes, press ups.
p.m. SwimmingL warm up of a few hundred metres - lost count. Then did 1km continuous. Bored to tears but happy with that. Felt strong at the end. I think i did it in just over 1/2 hr but due to monotony i forgot when i started.

W - Rest. Felt very 'empty'. Didn't refuel well yesterday.

T - a.m. Antagonists
p.m. Bike ride. 15km in 50mins. Very hard going round here. I live 1.5km up a hill that ascends 300m in that distance. Decided to head downhill to start only to find a similar hill a few km on. Not geat training for a 20km flat course around a lake. It should feel easy on the day though.

F - Antagonists

S - Local boulders. Very excited. Lots of virgin boulders for me to play on. Seems to be powerful sit starts, aretes and lip traverses in the main but still got lots to look at. Also tried the 'all weather gym ' face and got pretty pumped. Problems probably up to V2/3 done. Need to find a project or two other than the impossible one i found that looks brilliant but would require me to dyno about 1.5m starting 4m off the deck. Also need to clear out an amazing rood i found that is full of nettles. 2 or 3 amazing lines in there and lots of stuff way too hard for me.

S - Early morning dash to try out the all weather gym in the rain. Bone dry. Need to get some structure to it now.

My wife is in the UK this week so it will be trips to the boulders cleaning and doing new stuff. I am staying off the BM this week as my elbows are giving me grief.

In other news for my birthday i had a mid life crisis and bought a skateboard to re live my youth. Been on it a few times and the basics have come back quick. Went to a skatepark today and got totally shown up by what appeared to be a group of toddlers doing tricks that hadn't even been invented when i was a kid. I cam back injury free though so not all bad.

In other other news here is alink to mny blog where i've stuck up some pics of where i live now:

http://biscuitsblogspot.blogspot.com.es/2013/03/moving-house-new-rock.html
mrchewy - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit: Looks amazing! I need to visit one day haha
Daniel Heath - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to Joughton:

Wow well done on winning the competition!

Your endurance must be amazing for you to even consider reversing moves on an indoor route - something I really never do. I'd like to see you on sight indoor routes and see if you do anything differently to most people. Got any vids?

Congrats
Dan
Daniel Heath - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mattrm:

FWIW my old prescription is

+1.75 -2.75 2.0
+1.25 -2.75 176.0

Apparently my astigmatism was quite bad, but the treatment is more capable than it used to be.
biscuit - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to Joughton:

I'll second that Jake. AMAZING !

The 8a will go down super quick i am sure.

biscuit - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:
> (In reply to biscuit) Looks amazing! I need to visit one day haha

When you have the amount of rock they do in Spain ( and a preference for sport ) this place is not special.

It's only 40min from Malaga but it's too far for people to bother.

Just remembered i am in the process of sorting a trip to Naranjo de Bulnes for August. Well excited.

http://www.picoseuropa.net/naranjo/index.php

Routes up to 700m long. Woo hoo !
seankenny - on 17 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Thanks Mr C.

M - Sat Nothing, still feeling ill.
Sun - Decided to MTFU and did some bouldering, flashed a bunch of problems up to V3.
Nomics4sale - on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Thanks chewy and yes finishing with a pint in the ODG would have been a good way to finish on Sunday. I went into Ambleside and larded up with a bacon butty instead :-). Might treat myself to a pint next time!

STG: 7b this week, multipitch monster day on Saturday
MTG: E1 and look at E2
LTG: not sure

Mon: Summit with Nik watching him pull a E7 onsight first ascent out of the bag. Woosh!
Tues: Ingleton with the beast aka PPG. Good session on the circuits, will hopefully get back there again soon.
Wed: local 4.5 mile trail run
Thurs: Malham. Freezing cold. Couple of top ropes up Space Race but it was a bit too cold to make much headway.
Fri: travel
Sat: Tres Ponts. 2 x 6b (1 onsight, 1 repeat) then couple of top ropes on unnamed 7b which is ace but nails. Made some progress and did all the moves. Keen to get on it again.
Sun: Camarasa. Onsight 6a and 6b then failed on a steep 6b+. Would have redpointed it but it started raining so we sacked it off.

So far this trip I've not been climbing very well which is a bit disappointing. I think I need to up my psyche level. MTFU in other words.

Hatching a plan to do two long multipitch routes at two different crags on saturday. Not sure it will happen but I'm keen to try.

We're going to Oliana today so I'm going to take it fairly easy to save my energy for the 7b at Tres Ponts.

mattrm - on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

AJM - The van looks nice. Well done!

Joughton - Awesome job on the comp.

Biscuit - All that rock, you lucky sod. The photo's look great. I've been thinking about getting a skateboard again. I'd probably just wreck myself tho.

mrchewy - re the injuries, I think the take away from Dav Mac is that you're going to get injured, so just deal with it. I'm tempted by the 'getting strong' bit tho, to help it out. Also I know what you've done to yourself, so I guess I should stop whining like a little wuss eh?

Dan - My prescription is +5.75 -6.0 or something similar. About 3 times as bad as yours basically. And I'm astigmatic. That's why I say I'm not sure if they could help with that.
Luke Owens - on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: Haha, cheers. There is a reason behind the name. I won't clutter this thread with the story but there's a write up here:

http://lukeowens.blogspot.com/2013/03/force-majeure-7b-first-ascent.html

5 Days rest - I actually think helped to be honest. I was feeling pretty over tired, so I felt great when I went out to do the route. Maybe should of kept on top of some core exercises and some aerobic exercise though...

STG - Consolidate 7b and Font 7A
MTG - 7c and Font 7A+
LTG - 8a and Font 7B/+

Monday - Rest

Tuesday - Pantymwyn - Trying Robert Duvall (Font 7A) again. Did from a stand start during warm up (About 6B+). Linked from the sit and powered out going for the last hold TWICE! Frustrating but great to be so close. Further attempts then proved useless and I felt mega tired. An obvious indicator I lack power endurance. It's 8 moves in total and the moves on there own I don't find too tricky.

Wednesday- Worked late and had to help tidy the house before we went on holiday...

Thursday, Friday, Saturday Family holiday

Sunday - Craig Y Llyn - Never been before, as roadside as it gets! Wanted to try Voie Normale (Font 7A). Holds were positive but wet. The problem is steep. Couldn't even do the stand start (Font 6B+). Confirmed how rubbish I am at steep stuff, need to get on the moon board more, lack body tension.
biscuit - on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:

Nice vid Luke. A really nice feel to it. Congrats to your mate who filmed it - not sure if you edited it. If you did well done. It has just the right balance with the music and action and just shows the hard move enough to show it's hard but without lots of falling off.

If it's a sloper why did you crimp it ? :-p
biscuit - on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

Van is looking good Andy :0)
Luke Owens - on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Cheers buddy! Glad you liked it! I did the editing, something I really enjoy doing, slowly getting better at it.

Haha, it is a sloper but... slopers are a serious weakness of mine. The one on the route has a tiny spike on it which helps you stick to it. As I pulled up on the sloper my hand just started closing into a crimp grip on the tiny spike! No idea why!

Either way it got me through it! Haha.
AJM - on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks :) getting excited about actually being able to use it soon...
Twigger on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

After spending the weekend in Birmingham with strongman Jimmy, I have been inspired to join in! I'm very lazy when it comes to training and would mostly prefer just go out and do it instead of doing structured routines. Hopefully the humiliation of posting about a week of doing nothing will provide some motivation.

My climbing high point was about a year ago when I was working at Reading Climbing Centre and could regularly on-sight 7a's indoors and managed a 6c on-sight outdoors at Brean (clips in sadly). Since then, the office job has got in the way of life and I've slipped back somewhat (although a recent surge has recovered some talent)

I'd like to do some duathlons this summer as I'm a keen cyclist, but want to get better at running. It's always painful I find, sometimes cardio, sometimes muscular, sometimes joints, sometimes all of the above, but I always get severe liver ache! On the rarest of occasions that none of the above happens, I do enjoy being able to run for what seems like forever in the lovely countryside around my village.

Goals:

Short term - O/S 7a's indoors, get outside anywhere, run 10K in a respectable time (45min?)

Medium term - Finish off Quietus - was annoyed that I fell into the stereotype described by Andy Kirkpatrick (although I only used 1 cam!); but he's wrong about not bothering to try it. Lead E1's and maybe some more E2's regularly this summer as well as more sport climbing.

Long term - Left wall and maybe E3's, Sub 45 10K, be able to ride more than 90K without hitting the wall.

M - nothing
T - hilly 10K, felt slow
W - climbing date, spent most of the session with a semi. Lowered grade to look good
T - nothing
F - local pub, twice
S - tried to climb at cleeve hill on way up to brum, was dry the whole way, the moment I got to the crag the heavens opened. Had a nap in Snobs that night.
S - BBC with strongman Jimmy, cool centre, hardly anyone there, quality problems. up to V4/5 (got 1 yellow) nearly vommed.

Sorry for the longest first post ever

Twigs
Ian Bell - on 18 Mar 2013
Had to comment on Snobs. Brings back some (very hazy) memories of Birmingham. Sure regular visits will help the training no end!
Exile - on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Yep, more juggling last week

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7
RP - 7a+ / 7b
HP - E6
Winter - VI 7

Summer
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.

Weeks training:

M: Morning - 30 minutes hill reps. Haven’t done hill reps for a while, thought I'd give the short intense stuff a go, (meant to be good to help weight control.) Didn't come back half a stone lighter but felt good.
T: Morning - 55min fell run, Evening - 1hr 30 warm up, 4x4, core, 4x4.
W: Rest
T: Morning - 60 min road run, Evening - 1hr 30 power endurance traverses & core
F: Morning - 1hr power endurance traverses and core, probably a bit soon after last nights session - Evening 1hr easy, (6b+ ish) traverse repeaters, good recovery session
S: Rest
S: 11hrs 30min out, climbing on the Ben - lots of snow so after discounting plans A, B, C, D & E due to avalanche risk ended up on Great Chimney. Got stopped by the last chock stone 10m from the top of the route so ended up abing off. great day out though and learnt lots.

Stacked a lot in this week, made easier by some work meetings with later start times than i would normally start. going to be a little more difficult this week.

biscuit - on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Triathletes and swimmers help please ! I know there's a few of you lurking on here.

I need to know what sort of times i need to not disgrace myself in my sprint triathlon in June ?

Any ideas anyone ?

Jamming Dodger on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit: Have you had a nosey at past results for last year (or any sprint tri for that reason)?
No ideas myself, im yet to commit to a triathlon. On my "to do this year" list.
ads.ukclimbing.com
biscuit - on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to Haych:

Erm, no, i am too lazy. Ha ha !

Actually i didn't think of looking on the site for the race.

However i don't know what i a decent time for a newbie from that. It says it's ( one of or 'the' ) English Championship so i guess there will be many v good people there that will skew the results over a normal race.
biscuit - on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Not in the national championships this year but i think i am in trouble.

Fastest swim was 11minutes. Must be a typo for 750m ?

Fastest bike was 39m for 21k

Fastest run was 15m for 5k

I reckon i may make the slowest times of 26m swim, 1hr4m bike and 26m run.

They're the slowest for crying out loud !
Jamming Dodger on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit: What does it matter? Everybody needs a benchmark from which to improve and you might just surprise yourself! Go for it...
mrchewy - on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit: Just asked a couple of my tri mates - 15min would be decent, 20min would be okayish. They reckon your goal should be 1hr 30min and you need to get the bike speed up.
If you're using your mountain bike training runs for timing, you'll have loads of time in the bank you're not expecting. Only done an adventure race myself but can see that people can lose massive amounts in transition, so get yourself drilled.
My mate John is a sub 1hr when he bothers with sprints.
mrchewy - on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to Twigger: Welcome to fit club... nice work on the semi.
biscuit - on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Cheers.

Think i've beena bit guilty of complacency.

I'm doing it more for a friend than me but don't want to make a fool of myself so pride is kicking in a bit.

1hr 30s it is then. Good to have a target cheers. Got a plan for brick sessions starting soon ( including changovers of kit ) and some practice runs down on the coast. Swim in the sea then run and cycle on the prom.

Surprised myself with swimming. 23 min for 1k = well under 20m for 750 on the day, not taking into account being kicked in the face and swimming the long way round.

Running should be 20min or hopefully sub that so that just leaves the bike.

Cheers Chewy, i know what i need to aim at now.
Joughton on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: Good call on not putting too much effort into Oliana, I'm sure it's an amazing crag if you're climbing 8's and 9's but the reality is the easier routes (which are still really tough!) are a bit scrappy in comparison with other stuff in the area.

Hope you get that 7b at Tres Ponts, I'm pretty sure I know which one you mean - it's amazing isn't it? Dunno if you need any beta but when I did it I found a sneaky way of doing the crux by going a little out to the right...

Also if you haven't been yet I can strongly recommend Perles, it's a lovely crag and there's really nice routes at every grade including some decent multi-pitch stuff.
Joughton on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath and biscuit: Cheers guys!

This wall in particular though alternates between vertical and very steep in steps so I'd make a few moves up the steep section, get a feel for it, then retreat back down to the vertical bit for a rest. On my penultimate forage upwards I'd clip, come back down and have a big shakeout, then commit to the sequence almost as if on a redpoint with the clip already in. All very tactical!

No I haven't but I can ask someone to film if I'm about to try anything hard, though there won't be any new sets at MCC for a while so you may have to wait cause there's nothing left to onsight!
JimmyKay - on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

This has literally been the busiest two weeks of my life. Fortunately it's gone back to normal this week so I can breathe again.

M-Core 195 dynamic / 3:23 static
T-Nothing
W-Cheeky 1hour session at Pantymwyn after popping into a local school. Finally managed Thug Mentality. Didn't feel that bad with some nifty knee bar beta on the crux. Thug Mental next!
T-Nothing
F-Nothing
S-3:00 static this was after the pub but before embarking on snobs...
S-Short bouldering session at BBC with Twigger and Mike. Used sweaty hangover skin as an excuse for falling off everything. Wasn't very sober... But buoyed by the team Snobs managed to send a few yellows.

Great weekend, which was exactly what I needed after the epic time I've had at work recently. Easter hols next Thursday! Come on.
JimmyKay - on 18 Mar 2013
In reply to Twigger:

You never told me about this date?! Why wasn't I informed?
Nomics4sale - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to Joughton:

Cheers Jake, and well done on your comp result, very inspiring. Yes, the 7b is the one you've done at Tres Ponts (just checked your logbook). Not sure how you went right at the crux? I do a heel hook high out left then reach up with my left hand for a smallish crimp and pull up a bit on that? Or maybe that isn't the crux? One of our team tried going out right but couldn't reach through.

We didn't go to Oliana in the end, went to Terradets instead which is amazing. Got on Jam Session at 7b which is really good and maybe a touch harder than the 7b at Tres Ponts. Going to try leading whichever one of them comes up first.

Not sure if we'll get to Perles. We all seem to have projects on the go elsewhere and today we're going to Collegats. I'm going to try to have a decent rest day today, save myself for the 7bs.
useful on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:
> (In reply to DoctorU) Yoda? They call me Jedi down the climbing wall but I have no levitation skills.

Surely with a name like Chewy you should be Wookie?! ;)
mrchewy - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit: Triathlon goals...

Back in '06, I trained for the Duston Sprint Tri but tweaked an ACL quite badly just four weeks before and had to pull out. It would have been my first tri (only one probably) and the sections were a 400m swim, 20k bike and 5k run. My target time was 1hr 15min but 1.20 would have been decent as my swimming was poor, I had a 22min run at best but I don't seem to suffer with the jelly body after transition too badly.
I shocked by how slow some people were during and after transition in the adventure race. Myself and Tim had no race experience but Mart has done tri for years inc. an Ironman but we had to wait for him in transition, it maybe cost us 5 minutes in total as we had 4 of the damn things. Jelly legs abounded after the cycle and I'm sure some people just don't train for the swap - it worth doing this in training just so you know what to expect if you happen to suffer with this.
We finished top half out of 250 teams despite serious cramp after the 3hr mark that put Tim on his back for ten minutes - better transitions and no cramp would have seen us top 50, so set your goals high, we didn't and finished slightly disappointed.
You might never do one again - so set the target time as high as you dare (I'd say 1.25 with a 750m swim) and get bike fit as that's the biggest section in terms of time. No one likes selling themselves short and you at least want to whup your mate's ass.
useful on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit: Can I register one "Seriously Envious" vote for your new home, please?!? Very nice!
mrchewy - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to DoctorU: To my children's eternal shame, I was a little excited when I saw Chewbacca at Disneyland Paris and may well have embarrassed them.
useful on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM: Liking the van: a bit of inspiration toward whatever model I should get?
I'm still not sure whether to go the full VW Transporter, or to make do with Transit/Hiace types...
Jamming Dodger on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: I think the dad dancing took care of that long before...
Speaking of transitions, I did a bit of brick training and found that quite hard suddenly telling your leg muscles to do something different. My tri club does specific sessions for transitions which I would prob find useful. I can barely get out of a wetsuit, never mind at speed.
Bit of a nightmare with my cross bike I discovered yesterday. Back to the repair shop it has gone. Ah well. :/
AJM - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to DoctorU:

I've a friend who did a very nice transporter conversion recently, but we went for something higher because my other half can stand up in it and I don't have to slouch too much (ceiling height probably about 5'8"?) which was important to me especially because we are planning on using it for months on end rather than weekends and I thought not being able to stand up would drive me nuts. It also gives you way more storage space too. Plus you get a lot newer and lower mileage transit than you do transporter, sprinter etc for the same money and whilst other models have better reliability reps and stuff they also have thousands of miles headstart...
pork pie girl - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

chiro session was good and really over due.. one leg shorter than the other by about 1.5 inches due to pelvus misplaced , causing subluxation in lowre back and also in my neck.. and really tight glute on one side. for teh first time in three years the chiro told me to rest for a few days after the adjustments... so forced rest days but think i've slowed the healing process down by climbing at malham and catching heavy buggers on red point attempts!!

last week i wanted to start leading routes at malham and taking some falls, back felt so bruised after seeing chiropractor that i thought falling would undo any of the work he'd done...i think i'll have to go back and see him again this week if i can get the time

m- planned rest day
t-am int training on bike, bouldering at ing wall.. cicuits and a bit of working harder problems... reasonable session but feet constantly felt cold and back got sore
w-chiro session.. forced rest :o(
t-malham 2x puddle jumper and 2x consenting to warm up. 4x space race... felt in the mood to start leading and taking falls but back very sore and felt vert cold from about lunch time onwards... climbed in two thermals and two down jackets but still too cold
f- settee.. forecast bad so forced myself to rest to help the back recover ... only had to force myself for the morning and then the aftrenoon was easy.. docs and films on iplayer
s-malham, 1x puddle and 2x consenting, 2x space race, 1x raindogs on very snug top rope.. went for a second go on raindogs and was incredibly weak. my first go excited me as i did from the ground (wasn't sure if i woyuld be able to do this without being pushed in by someone, then also did the windmill move relativley quickly .. did all the other moves apart from move to flat side hold..the snug top rope helps loads.. i'm not kidding myself that i could do the moves without it right now
s- sarah fancied malham so off we went.. very cold again.. three goes on space race... frustrated that i fely so frozen i wasn't prepared to bolt to bolt it as planned.

so far this week is going really well.. malham yesterday.. trying to red point 7th aardvark.. took three decent lobs off the top between the last bolt and the lower off .. which was my aim.. next time i must push myself mentally to not jump off until i've clipped the lower off... it feels so far between the last bolt and the lower off!!!

so short term goals... take the falls.. make no excuses... evey time i'm out the rock whether it's snowing or gale force winds.. got to take the falls
mtg- 7b+ this summer and posisbly the 7c at the wall (haven't seen it yet so we'll see)
ltg - 7c by the end of this season... not sure if this is realistic but i'll have more of an idea as the weeks go by
mega ltg- 8a (two years)

PPG
Twigger on 19 Mar 2013
mrchewy - it was a hard session!

Jimmy - it wasn't that memorable, apart from the derrière
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pork pie girl - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Ps.. forgot my cardio/cycling updates last week.. turbo trainer in garage after sessions at malham.. legs felt great..

sunday after malham.. mountain biking from malham.. 2 hours blast with lots of climbing... too much snow on tops to cyle so ran to keep the heart rate up.

two weeks to go until two week road trip to france, then two weeks back full time at work then i'm donw to being skint and three days a week at work... all self inflicted.. :o)
pork pie girl - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to Eagle River: i don't know what you mean ? :o)
Joughton on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: Thanks! Yeah that's the bit I think is the crux - that's the way Luke did the crux when I was with him but he's dead tall so it wasn't much of a reach for him. I got a big egyptian in to get up to a big undercut way out right above the head, then use that to get stood up then traverse left on top of the big block thing to big holds. I think the best thing on that route is just to climb really confidently and relaxed, because you know most of the holds are pretty big and otherwise you just get pumped.

We never got round to going to Terradets but I wish we could've done, Jam Session was on my wishlist for the holiday too! It looks great. Hope you get which ever one you try.
biscuit - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to Mr Chewy & Haych:

Cheers for the top tips. I've done a bike to run session a couple of times and it is very amusing at the moment. Not jelly legs but they just don't do what you want them to. Leg lift seems to be the problem so i just keep feet low and 'glide' along until they wake up.

OK Chewy i'll aim for the stars and go for 1hr20m.

The run i should be able to do in 20m the swim i would hope for 20m so that leaves me 35min for the bike ( with 5 mins for changeovers ). That's the priority.

The bike i am training on is a city/hybrid style with a slightly buckled front wheel ( it catches on the brake pads a bit ) and only 2 of the front rings work. That combined with the fact i live in a place known as the Pyrenees of the South gives you an idea of how hilly it is here. On the 15k training ride i did last week there was nearly 600m of ascent and descent. The race course is flat round a lake and i'll be on a proper road bike.

Fingers crossed and cheers for the help and advice guys.
leon on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:
STG: Stick to the training plan.
MTG:
LTG(2013): Redpoint sport 7b, 1 e3, 1 e2 that plenty of people think is e3.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 0(94)
Fat %: 12
Focus: Strength(2/3)
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. Repertoire of moves. FoF.

Mon: Core. Shoulders & Arms(Weights).
Tue: Arc(30 mins). Repeaters * 2.
Wed: Core. Push-ups(54), Pull-ups(30), Back(weights).
Thu: Arc(30 mins).
Fri: Arc(30 mins). Repeaters.
Sat:
Sun: Arc(30 mins).

Yes Mr Chewy, the training cycle ends soon, next week.

Started the week feeling ill & progressively felt iller. So although training was light this week it was still quite an effort. I seem to be able to Arc & hang off a fingerboard even when feeling sick.

Only highlight was Tuesday, felt really strong on the BM & have started doing offsets on the small slopey pockets.

Plan for next week:
Mon: Probably still recovering.
Tue: London.
Wed: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2). Repeaters.
THu: Push-ups, Pull-ups, Back(weights). Core.
Fri: Wall session or bouldering.
Sat: Poker night.
Sun: Probably too tired to train.
biscuit - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Bored at home due to massive thunderstorm meaning no outside playing possible.

Decided to go for 50 pull ups in 5 mins. CRUSHED !

Was doing 5 every 30secs until last 2 sets when i had to do 3 and a 2.

Not tried it for ages and suddenly i can do it.

I was trying to conserve energy before but this time i just blasted them off as quick as possible - good form though.

Totally arbitrary but feels great ;0)
leon on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit:
> (In reply to mrchewy)
>
> Decided to go for 50 pull ups in 5 mins. CRUSHED !
> Was doing 5 every 30secs until last 2 sets when i had to do 3 and a 2.
> I was trying to conserve energy before but this time i just blasted them off as quick as possible - good form though.
>

straight hang between every pull-up? very impressive. i guess its the 100 pull-up test next & then onto one armers!
biscuit - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to leon:

Yes i kept good form. I don't go down to straight hang as that's bad for my shoulders ( rotator cuff ) but near as i am going to get.

100 is tempting but is a looooong way off.

As are one armers. I can't even lock off one armed never mind about doing a pull up.


Hope you get better soon and when the training is finished you can reap the rewards.
mrchewy - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit: I managed three in one go tonight!

*wanders off embarrassed.
biscuit - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Well then i will go for the 100 if you go for the 50.

( please don't say yes )
mrchewy - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit: I couldn't manage 15 in five minutes but I guess that means I only have to add 35, you'd have to add 50...
biscuit - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

and that's why i don't want you to say yes ;0)
mrchewy - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit: Just pondering on this - it doesn't sound half as bad now I've worked out it's 5 every 30 seconds. Still stupidly hard for me, undoable for a while I guess BUT ;-)
AJM - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Do it just to make him squirm. He knows that by posting this he is going to force me and several others to up their games...
biscuit - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

Already squirming.

I know it doesn't bear much relation to climbing ability but Ally only got 64 in 5 mins and is waaaaaaay above my level. Can't imagine getting to 100 in reality.

maria85 - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: Ahh, such a late post from me, sorry! Don't know where the last couple of days went to. Cheers for doing fit club Kelvin... and will try to read everyone else's posts tomorrow!

Had a good week until Thurs when a cold hit me, seems to have been never ending snuffles this winter :-( Epic fail at fingerboarding though. I suck at this. I just seem to have no motivation to go hang off a board.

Last week's goals:
1 x wall session (roped) - Tick
2 x core - I thought I'd done these, but looking through my diary I don't think I actually did? Must be more organised.
2 x fingerboard - work out a proper session to push myself - Utter fail. No excuses.
2 x bike to work with longer ways home - Tick
2 x runs, though knee is playing me up a bit, will see how it goes. - Tick
Either a long run or ride at the weekend, or both! - Tick, both (though quite short due to cold...)

M: Lunchtime run, 4.8km, 25mins.
Depot in evening. New woods (V3-6) - flashed 1, got another 3 or 4 second or third go. Lots of new blacks (V2-4) too. Attempted circuit board 6a+ but kept coming off about 1/3rd of the way round, I've done it plenty of times before so must have just been tired.
T: Biked to and from work
W: Biked to and from work with longer (fun) way home.
Evening trail run: 10.4km, 270m height gain, 1hr 4mins.
T: Harrogate wall. 2 laps on autobelay 5+ to warm up (up and down). Then (all led): 5+, 6a, 6a+ (one rest), 6b (dogged), 6b, 6a+ (several rests/cheats), 6b, 6b (gave up halfway), 6a+ (gave up halfway), 5+.
Pretty happy with the 2 6b's I did clean. They were both a fight towards the end but managed to hold on - and the thought of falling wasn't TOO terrifying. However the other two I tried, and all the 6a+'s, I'd find myself not quite commiting to a harder move and taking/cheating - admittedly towards the end I was pretty tired which is why it wasn't happening!
F: Nothing. Sneezy.
S: Mtb, 2 hours or so. Muddy but fun(ish).
S: 35 min trail run, 5/6km or so - a few stops. Partly social, partly me feeling like I still had a cold.

I'm still not feeling great so this week is going to suffer, plus I seem to be stupidly busy. I was planning on entering the Mini Mtn Marathon in the Peak this weekend but seeing as a 15min jog today left me wheezing like an athsmatic donkey I'm not sure it's such a good plan. Really want to do it though...
I'm going to experiment with not setting myself biking/running goals as they are the same every week and too easy to 'tick' and therefore make myself feel good when I haven't actually achieved any new or particularly productive. I need to be tougher on myself, so this week's goals are:
- Fingerboard session 1: try my old session properly and tweak appropriately to get a challenging but do-able session sorted.
- FB 2: repeat this session!
- FB 3: experiment with stamina training using a foothold and moving continuously between big holds.
- Core - 2 x 20min sessions.
- Commit to a wall session at the weekend/early next week and take some falls.
maria85 - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to maria85:
Oh dear, just realised last week's goals were from the previous week - I think the link is wrong at the top of the page?
So actually:
2 x wall sessions - 1 depot, 1 roped. Plan the roped session more to warm up better and possibly do 4x4 type things. - Tick, though no 4x4s
2 x core & fingerboard. Carrying over aim of finding a reasonable fingerboard workout. Also look at working stamina on fb for when I can't get to/afford the wall. - Total fail
3 x bike to work - 2 done, cold killed the other one
3 x short runs - Tick
Unsure of weekend plans as yet but do something fun! - Tick
Work out which (running) races I'm entering this year and put entries in. Aiming for at least 1 half mara, 1 marathon distance (probably trail not road) and 1 weekend mountain marathon, plus a mini MM. - Still not done... add that one to this week's goals then!
biscuit - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to maria85:

Have you looked at the Saunder's Mountain Marathon in the Lakes. Never did it myself but know people who have and rate it very highly as an introduction to that sort of thing.

What are you aiming at with your fingerboard session and why does it bore you ? Slightly obvious question because by its nature it is boring and repetitive but if you have a goal at the end of it it can become at least a means to an end.

mrchewy - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit & AJM: Hmmmm... 50 pullups in 5 minutes... hmmmm... well, did another 7 tonight, that's 10 today.
Kevster - on 19 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Thanks Kelvin,

If its any consolation, I did really badly with pull ups too, though I tried one every ten seconds and struggled making 2 minutes.

My week last week:
Can't recall much, went to swanage one day. Did a couple of E2's. Liking Swanage E2's as they are becoming regular so may be flattering my ego/style. I have ambitions for more this year.
Also went to the Peak over the weekend, SPA training so no real climbing.

A short post this week from me, motivation is in waves, outside is too good, inside is not outside. maybe I'll try the pull up challenge......

ta, Kev
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AJM - on 20 Mar 2013
In reply to Kevster:

Lots of big ambitions to have at swanage Kev - I quite fancy some trips down there this year. Soul Sacrifice, Ocean Boulevard and some of those classic E1/2s are my lost but I reckon you've crushed most of those by now...?
Jamming Dodger on 20 Mar 2013
In reply to Kevster: I managed 12 last night! (an awkward and painful hang from the loft hatch and bemused looks from my son).
I reckon with a pull up bar or juggy fingerboard I could do more. Get in!
pork pie girl - on 20 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: why the sudden motivation with pull ups you lot? i thought they didn't help our climbing very much? (i'm still doing my usual amount but it doesn't make me any stronger for climbing) it does however make me feel good... it's a great upper body exercise.
Jamming Dodger on 20 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: Ive sort of given up on the climbing in the short term cause I cant get there often enough to progress. But beating blokes at pull-ups (or anything, for that matter) is always satisfying :)
mrchewy - on 20 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: I'm just really weak in the upper body to be honest, always have been - except maybe when I played rugby.
After three days of climbing, the knee is swollen quite alarmingly but on the plus side, I've managed to isolate three weaknesses.

1 - Basic strength. If I can't hold on, then I can't get better. This is not necessarily a finger issue. Locking off and pulling is more the issue I think.

2 - Need to climb on my toes more. Seems I've been dropping mu heel (winter climbing style) and that's not so good, not sure why I never knew this. So from now on, I'm gonna be like a ballerina.

3 - More volume and less chat. Get on a rope more often and climb for longer. Break sweat more.

Need to sort some way of doing pullups at home and the 50 in 5 is a goer. Hear that biscuit?!
pork pie girl - on 20 Mar 2013
In reply to Haych: lol!
AJM - on 20 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

I find that when I fall off steep continental climbing its often because I can't hold positions any more because my back and shoulders sag and don't hold the lock, so I chuck some in as a quick power endurance sort of exercise for my upper arms in a pe phase. It's also a big of an all body thing which replicates that wrestling thing you get with tufas where it's a whole body workout.

My max for a set on the holds on a beastmaker is probably only 8-10 so for me it's more of a limitation than for you knocking out multiple sets of 20. And I don't expect it will make me stronger, it's just designed to get my upper arms and back to feel the same sort of punishment my forearms do on crimpy route laps.
pork pie girl - on 20 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: you can buy pull up bars that your can fix across door frames without causing any mess. or use a beam (if narrow) in the attic/loft if possible

i like bars that are angled .. so are lower on the widest grip.. doesn't strain wrists or elbows as much.. better than straight bars.

are talking wide grip or narrow grip pull ups?

PS i reckon i'd manage the 100 in 5 mins..but not entering your competition as i'll get drawn in too much and my climbing will suffer. :op
pork pie girl - on 20 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM: yes. makes sense...
biscuit - on 20 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Chicken !

Not sure if mine are wide or narrow grip. I was using the big slots on the BM2000.

In reply to Haych:

I do them for the same reason as AJM really but as you point out they're not that important in relation to climbing. It's only cropped up as i got all excited yesterday managing the 50 in 5 for the 1st time.

I climb with a partner over here who can't manage 6 pull ups on a bar in a row. I have however seen her hang one handed from a finger jug in a roof as a rest for about 5 mins and she can crimp things that i can't even see.

She climbs 8b so i guess i know what's more important for your climbing ;0)
maria85 - on 20 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit:
I have looked at the Saunders, yes. Need to get someone to commit to doing it with me and will put an entry in. I was also thinking of the Rab MM (also in the lakes this year) as you can enter solo, which I'd prefer.

Fingerboarding... Specific aims are to increase lock-off strength and open hand strength. I used to fingerboard a lot (we're talking 4/5 years ago) and both enjoyed it and was a lot stronger. I think the lack of motivation is a combination of finding my old sessions too hard to complete, or even do a reasonable amount of, and the fb being tucked away upstairs where I'm less likely to get on it in between doing other things (unfortunately I can't move it anywhere else). I'm going to try putting my laptop up there so I can watch something at the same time.

Basically I just need to (wo)man the f up and force myself; I know I'll be keener once I start to see the benefits.
Jamming Dodger on 20 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit: Forever and a day would not see my able to climb 8b. Sadly. I think I lack the motivation to train that hard and find myself getting easily injured when I push myself.
As someone who spends a good portion of her time in lycra, how I look is almost as important to me as how I perform, which is a sad admission to make but then I was VERY overweight in my youth (we're talking obese) and guess this is a hangover from that. I know that probably comes across as shallow and self-defeating, but my goals as a result of that are quite transient with the background focus on keeping my weight in check, which possibly explains my mediocre efforts at all instead of intense efforts at one particular thing. Ive done things im proud of but think I now need a renewed way of looking at my training.
Something I need to assimilate perhaps.
Did any of that make sense??
biscuit - on 20 Mar 2013
In reply to Haych:

I think you're very honest. Anyone who says they don't care how other people perceive them ( physically as well as personality ) is a liar or deceiving themselves. We're all shallow on that count. My mate i am doing the tri with sent me a link for tri suits. Not a chance am i getting into one of those - that's my shallow and self defeating side ;0)

One of the great benefits of being sporty is having a 'better' body. I like the fact i don't look as flabby as most of the late 30's dads on the beach in Summer.

The amount of sacrifices my friend has had to make ( deciding to have no children for example ) have been huge and not for everyone. I love climbing but she and a couple of my other friends take it to another level of psyche and obsession. I'm not like that and not many people are. It's no bad thing to do what you're happy with if forcing it makes you not enjoy it. I've recently stepped back from structured training and goals. I have a goal to on-sight 7a and do some more 7b's in 1 session. That's what i aim for when i climb. If i don't get it by a certain date then i don't feel like i've failed but it still gives me motivation to try hard when i go out.I also enjoy climbing more because i pick routes because i like them not because they fit my current goals.

What about sacking off the home training and going to the wall or outside once more in a week. You could boulder - get strong while climbing not get strong hanging off boring bits of wood.

Just my 2p's worth - well about 10p's worth actually i went on a bit.
Jamming Dodger on 20 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit: Thanks for the suggestions. Unfortunately im unable to drive at the moment (no, not DUI!) which makes getting to the wall awkward. Temporary glitch though...
I ride to work 4 days a week which means if I then went to the wall and home id be fairly exhausted by the weekend.
I could get out climbing more at the weekend to be fair, but dont think i'll get the stamina up enough and most weekends there are other things I want to fit in, like a run, or a club ride. (Or just a rest!)
Got thai boxing on Sunday, core session and may try and get back to swimming, but thats at aquatics which makes it as impractical to do regularly as the climbing, since its an hours ride from my house.
Itll all work out fine, just need to be honest about what I can and cant fit in instead of flitting from one thing to the next.
Jamming Dodger on 20 Mar 2013
In reply to Haych: I typed that whilst shovelling a crisp sandwich down my neck in preparation to leave work shortly... errrmmm...
Body is a temple!
biscuit - on 20 Mar 2013
In reply to Haych:

but if you ddn't cycle 4 or 5 times a week, do aqua stuff, kick boxing, climbing and running you wouldn't be able to eat crisp sandwiches would you ?

looking at what you fit in in a week i reckon you're doing enough. Nothing wrong with doing lots of sports but if you want to get better than average at any of the you wll have to prioritise at some point.

BUT if you're happy as it is then stick with it. Variety is a great thing and very social too with all the different people.
useful on 20 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for the beta.

I'm more of a Transit man anyway (my dad taught me to drive in his!), but I'm still leaving my options open until I've seen a couple! :)
Si dH - on 20 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit:
> (In reply to AJM)
>
> Already squirming.
>
> I know it doesn't bear much relation to climbing ability but Ally only got 64 in 5 mins and is waaaaaaay above my level. Can't imagine getting to 100 in reality.

100 in 10 minutes is the challenge usually, rather than 100 in 5 minutes, I thought. 100 in 5 would be mental. 100 in 10 is quite a bit harder than 50 in 5 but should be achievable - give it a go! I've managed it once but failed 2 or 3 times. Sets of 5 seems a reasonably good way to go. Also it helps to switch between holds, eg alternating the 20 deg sloeprs with the decent crimps on a beastmaker 2k - arms and shoulders seem to be aided by alternating wide and narrow grips.
kylieo on 20 Mar 2013
In reply to Si dH:

I got all excited and tried this at the gym today. I can only do 4 pullups in one go, on a good day so I decided to aim for 20, 2 every 30s, and I got that although the last couple of sets had to be 2 individual ones. I reckon I could do a little more anyway, and one day maybe 50 but 10 sets of 5 seems a long way off when you can't do 1 set of 5!
JimmyKay - on 20 Mar 2013
In reply to kylieo:


Right, this should be a challenge for everybody to do this week and record in next week log.

Baring in mind it's my week to update. :-)
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biscuit - on 20 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Climbing tomorrow and Saturday but that leaves Sunday to give it a go.

Relieved to hear it's 100 in 10.

mrchewy - on 20 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: I've no hope but will try on Sunday or maybe tomorrow.
Jamming Dodger on 21 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: Think ill duck out of any kind of challenge or ill end up being stubborn and hurting myself. Ill stick to bicycle crunches and press-ups cause theres no real excuse to not do those in the evenings after work, save plain laziness. Im happy being able to do 12 pull-ups straight off though. My strength to weight must be improving :)
Found out yesterday my goal has moved a week or so nearer (18th April) and I wont be able to ride a while after that (more reason to get as fit as possible in the meantime) but its led me to think about my aims... I think cycling is the "thing" to focus on this summer, with a bit of dipping into running and being content to climb as and when. I really do enjoy blasts out on the bike. Even this morning, only riding into work but the sun was out, I felt good, brilliant tail wind and had my sunnies on for the first time riding to work this year. Hello long days!
Club ride on Sunday around Rivington. Thai boxing will have to wait. Its great for flexibility but again, one of those things you need to do several times a week to progress with.
pork pie girl - on 21 Mar 2013
In reply to Si dH: to achieve 100 in 5 mins ...i wondered about doing sets of 25 but would allow about 15 secs rest in between.. very difficult... especially if you tend to do reps fairly slowly with fully extended arms.. so each set would take longer.

deacondeacon - on 21 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit: right I'm up for the challenge, just got a new pull up bar this week so will be good to see my starting performance. I can only do about 8 at a time though.
Just to confirm are we aiming for 100 in 10?
mattrm - on 21 Mar 2013
In reply to deacondeacon:

If my shoulder weren't so iffy, I'd be very up for this. However it's still crap, so no stupid pull up challenge for me. No climbing this week either I reckon.
mrchewy - on 21 Mar 2013
In reply to mattrm: No point wrecking yourself Matt. I'm going for 10 in 5 minutes, which is going to be an utter mission seeing as I've climbed for the last 4 days and used the beastmaker... biscuit's to blame for all this drama!
Si dH - on 21 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:
Just managed the centurion (100 in 10 minutes)...just :)

Pleased with this as I'm still far from 100% over this bug. Probably not a good idea to exert myself too much really, but we have some friends over for a Fondue tonight so I needed to burn some calories!
mrchewy - on 21 Mar 2013
In reply to Si dH: Good going. Enjoy the fondue, you deserve it!

Can't even lift my arms tonight, four days climbing has taken it toll. Will have a go tomorrow.
AJM - on 21 Mar 2013
In reply to Si dH:

Beast!

I managed to sneak in 49-in-5 in-between ticking the 7b and 7c this evening. Ill take that as progress! Smash smash, as Ally would say :)
JimmyKay - on 21 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:


End of session tonight I did 50 in 4:30. I thought I was going well when I did the first 20 in 34 seconds. Then I died a death.
AJM - on 22 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

I play it as having to do a set at the start of each 30s period so I started off with 7,7,6,7 and thought I was home safe and dry but I tailed off to 4s and 3s. I reckon if I just tried to do as many as possible, getting back on when I've failed and mixing up times and stuff, I might get a few more in. Maybe try it like that at the weekend if I get time.
Si dH - on 22 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:
My technique yesterday was a strict 5 reps then 20 seconds rest and repeat. 5 reps tkes about 10 seconds. Ne,t time ill try upping to 6 reps for the first 10 sets, shorten a couple of rests and see if I can hit 110. Loading it up front is worth trying but ive found my form goes to pot later on if im totally knackered.


Good effort on that performance straight after a 7b!!
AJM - on 22 Mar 2013
In reply to Si dH:

Yeah I used to do it with 6s but was feeling good to start off so used it, in hindsight should have played a slightly longer game.

Elbow grumbling a bit today after that session, so maybe ease off the pullups for a week or so to make sure it doesn't get work.

Thanks! Yeah the 7b felt totally different this time, got it third go of the night I think after a short warmup, then had a go on the 7c, sequence fail near the top, then the pullups, then smashed out the 7c, then fell off a 6c in a failed attempt to warm down!
biscuit - on 22 Mar 2013
In reply to Si dH:

'The Centurion' i like it.

You are the man so far - and still a bit unwell too, STRONG !
biscuit - on 22 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

I certainly could't do it in between a 7b and a 7c. Beast.


mrchewy - on 22 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM: It's good to see all that 'training' working on the van has done no harm - top effort.
AJM - on 22 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit and mrchewy:

Cheers chaps.

Have to try the other (comp) 7b next time and maybe try and find something suitable for laps too. What I need is for the wall to set a pockety non-cruxy enduro 7 really to either lap or have as a endpoint project.

If I tick the other 7b I might have to try the nails 7c though which could be a challenge.

Fair to say though I've no ideas what the grades really are - the 7b is less my style, and I put more time into the 7c, but then the 7c is sequency which means more time getting the right sequence versus time on redpoints.

Who knows. They both felt easier on redpoints than I thought they might do - the 7c pretty steady up to the top on-off move which ijust about stuck, the 7b less pumpy that go than any other.
Si dH - on 22 Mar 2013
In reply to Si dH:
PS if anyone is interested a mate has made a good little film of our recent Font trip here:

http://www.vimeo.com/62014889

Theres not much of me, a clip of me doing nemesis (red tshirt) and some good folded-arms spotting!

Si
AJM - on 23 Mar 2013
In reply to Si dH:

Nice film.

This and other things are almost making me psyched for Font. Which, given the quantity of sport climbing in the world I've yet to do, is a distraction ;)
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