/ Heavy Traffic on Point Five Gully on Saturday
At least 4 parties on/gearing up for the route, and as you can see in the photo one person leading up directly below someone seconding.
There was no-one on any of the routes either side of Point Five.
Too me this seems a bit insensible and dangerous - what with ice fall down the chimney etc. (Thinking back to that blog post by Will Gadd, http://willgadd.com/category/blog/ )
I did Point Five two weeks ago but we had the route to ourselves. I wouldn't like to be below anyone on it - surely it would be better to go for plan B, Indicator Wall, Hadrian's, Smith's or some such. It's just going to ruin a classic route for you if you get stuck behind/on top of people and showered by ice.
That said I got into a near rescue scenario myself stuck under (and falling off) the cornice atop Smith's in the blizzard that developed later that day so maybe I'm not the best judge of Winter safety.
Brr. Glad you came through it OK. Did you see the cornice capers on Simon Richardson's blog recently? (See "A day of adventure" on Scottishwinter.com.)
Thanks, I'll have to write the whole affair up after a certain period of introspection. Seeing a 22cm screw in to the hilt in what seemed to be good ice blow and lying upside down in the lee of a monster cornice was a bit unsettling...
Had a look at that blog - sounds fun, had an experience like that with a cornice before! Luckily it went well that time.
Anyway, what do people think of that amount of traffic of Point Five? Fair game or another example of what Gadd was talking about?
We did Central Gully RH, tho would have gone for Green had it not been so busy. It wasn't especially a safety decision we are just anti social.
Central Gully was fab FYI.
I've seen Point Five busier than that! People do seem reluctant to change objectives, I guess given its iconic status and current easy condition this isn't too surprising.
Anti-social would have been if you'd gone from Green anyway, pressurising those above when you joined them at the belay, and kicking ice on those below ;-)
I have a picture of you on route to the epic with the monster cornice ! we done tower scoop then an awful traverse onto tower ridge with spooky snow and we noticed you hadn't moved for a while and trying to traverse. Team behind us on tower ridge, up which we finished, were rescued next morning after what must have been a horror show of a night out in them conditions.
Never been that spooked by dodgy snow before.
Team behind us on tower ridge, up which we finished, were rescued next morning after what must have been a horror show of a night out in them conditions.
I was in Glen Coe as the storm blew through. Was rough when I left the Clachaig that night. But slept in the car and when I got out at 3/4am the weather was mercifully good - no wind (at glen level), stars out, not too cold and good visibility by starlight. By 7am it had clouded over + the wind had picked up. Glad to hear the team on Tower Ridge were ok, can't have been an easy night.
The guy leading up behind the second must be an absolute muppet! Having someone so close behind you like that must really distract from the pleasure of climbing the route.
> ... Central Gully was fab ...
No surprises there then. I'll take it any day over Green.
Elsewhere on the site
This Winter Conditions page gives a summary of what is being climbed at the moment, what is 'in' nick and what the prospects are... Read more
Nikwax’s uncompromising environmental ethos has once again been recognised and rewarded by a trusted authority in... Read more
The British climbing scene is very exciting at the moment. It is quite clear that as a sport it is developing at a rapid rate and... Read more
2012 saw the release of the beautiful first volume of definitive Yorkshire Gritstone climbing, produced by the YMC with Robin... Read more
Atom Series: Synthetic insulated mid layers AR: All-Round. Significantly warmer and more protective than a fleece hoody, this... Read more
Hot Aches Productions premiered their latest film Redemption: The James Pearson Story at Kendal Mountain Festival on... Read more