In reply to TobyA:
> (In reply to RKernan) Eeek. Between you and Foxy that must be something like four falls onto screws! People do seem to be falling off classic Scottish ice routes more these days; I wonder if it is more trust in screws (most people seem to have decent screws), or leashless tools (I know that terrifying hand un-curling feeling!), or something else?
Yes I've noticed that this is happening a lot now, as well as folk having problems with cornices!
I think new climbers are missing out on some of the basics from Scottish winter hillwalking gained over several years and climbing lots of easy graded gullies first. Through time you eventually build up the experience of avoiding and / or tackling cornices.
Falling onto ice screws under the cornice could so easily have been terminal. I'm surprised at folks trust in the ice screws, particularly with Scottish ice which is usually much weaker and more variable than continental ice. All this is best learned about by playing in safe(?) heavily corniced hollows rather than on winter climbs way past your limit!
Worth spending some bad weather days practising digging through cornices in some of the snowhole sites.
The best way I find is to cut a work platform and then dig diagonally to the side creating large compacted work steps to plunge your axe into as you progress upwards. This avoids the cornice debris dropping onto your face or large bits collapsing on top of you.
In the worst case scenario with a hugely overhung cornice, dig a compacted work platform and then dig in and diagonally up to the surface, a bit like digging a snowhole.
It'll likely take hours but at least you'll keep warm in the process, though this assumes folk have proper axes with an adze!
Cheers Ron