UKC

Good evening,

Has anyone been in Chamonix recently and know of the conditions at the moment; specifically what condition the Frendo is currently in.

Thanks

In reply to bluerockman: Going by the recent reports and the amount of snow fallen last few days id say not too good.. Im heading out next friday so hoping things improve.

In reply to bluerockman:

Take it you know the route gets quite a serious M grade if still iced up.

In reply to bluerockman:
Lots of snow about- would need skis or snow shoes to get to the bottom of it. As mentioned by the poster above, I believe it is a lot more challenging in winter conditions, and doesn't get many ascents at this time of year...

HTH

Will

Didn't Andy Kirkpatrick write about his experience of the Frendo in winter in physcovertical?

In reply to bluerockman:

Its ok in winter, I did in 2009 in marginal cold weather in about 7h. Not too much snow if I remember right. Left exit id super nice!

In reply to bluerockman: I am in Cham right now, and I can tell you the Frendo is most definitely not in. Way, way too much snow. You'll need at least a solid week of warm weather for it to be climbable, and it will still be very wintery.

In reply to Alex Buisse: Have you been up high mate Whats everything else looking like, espeically up around east tacul.. heading out friday for nine days so fingers crossed..

In reply to tscoobydoo: I haven't been up recently as the weather has been so shit, but conditions are supposed to be good on the classic gullies of E face of Tacul and S face of Lachenal.

In reply to bluerockman: Just been skiing in Vallee Blanche today. Everything super snowed up. About 30-50cms of fresh snow. Better weather tomorrow with teams at Cosmiques heading for Pointe Lachenal. Approach to E Face Tacul has heavy powder and Frendo is very snowed up indeed.

In reply to Alex Buisse: Thanks guys.. lets hope things settle. if not plenty of beer to be drunk..

In reply to bluerockman:
Just down from two nights at Cosmiques. Conditions on triangle not good. Lots of hard grey bare ice,same contamines and centre/left of triangle. Frendo snowy, no tracks near it Mon or today. Nice weather today but not good next few days.

In reply to bluerockman:

Ive just been touring in the Vallee Blanche today and took some piccies of the E. Face of Tacul (it looks good and was v.busy today), and the Frendo from the Benne on the way up.

Any body who wants a closer look at the routes can email me and I'll copy you in on the photos. (john@jpcuthbertconsulting.co.uk)


Perhaps its not very helpful to add that Mont Blanc Radio is forecasting 40cms of fresh at 3000m tomorow.

John Cuthbert