Looking at getting a lightweight belay jacket around 400g. Decent hood a must but other than that not really fussed.
I've almost discounted the Patagonia Nanopuff Hoody as the fit in the body seems quite baggy although it would be worn over a shell. Looked at the Haglofs Barrier Pro Hoody on-line but can't seem to find it in a large or medium.
In reply to wheelsucker: I've had over the years TNF redpoint optimus, Haglöfs Barrier pro and RAB Photon - probably all a bit heavier than you're asking for, mid weight I guess. But FWIW, the Photon is the best, the hood is much superior to the other two. It's what I use once it's not cold enough to need my DAS, but I use it a lot just generally as well in winter so its value for money.
The Berghaus Ignite Hoody (520g)looks good but probably a wee bit heavier than I want. I have an Outdoor Research Chaos (730g) for colder belays so I'm looking for something a fair bit lighter for milder conditions. The Arcteryx LT Hoody at 375G looks good. I'm struggling to find either jacket at a decent price in anything other than an XL.
In reply to JayPee630: Yeah that's fair enough, I'll only wear the Prism at belays though and tend not to wear insulated pieces while moving as i'm a sweaty bugger at the best of times. If its super cold i'll just wear a micro fleece underneath my windshirt/softshell combo and then throw the insulated piece on whenever i stop.
I don't know the price of the SV and Nano together but i'm sure they'll top out at about a ton more than the Prism too.
In reply to wheelsucker: I suggest you look at the Rab xenon because it's the lightest (and under 400 grams) and uses very modern materials. The arcteryx Atom light is a brilliant jacket for actually climbing in but I wouldn't use mine as a belay jacket. The bottom of the zip is not reversible - so I find it awkward with a belay device. The SV hoody has the same problem but I've though about getting one and sewing a new zip into it. Arcteryx should think about this........GD
In reply to wheelsucker: I deeply embarrassed to admit that once I weighed all my insulated jackets and wrote the results down on spread sheet. But, I can tell you accurately - 520 grams. I think they've added insulation since then to make it warmer but heavier
Toby that's nothing to be embarrassed about. Ever since I read Mark Twights, Extreme Alpinism, I live by the 'Light is Right' mantra and weigh most of my kit. It doesn't make me climb any better but gives my mates a laugh.
In reply to sebastien: I bought one of them at Xmas, was wearing for belay jacket yesterday when out ice climbing. Ridiculously light but not actually super warm. I'm thinking of buying a hood one too, one size up and using them together for an ultralight winter jacket.
In reply to captain paranoia: Just weight I'm afraid. It was actually starting to do some bike packing that had me weighing stuff, stoves and pots was the first thing - is my pocket rocket and little pan more or less than my jetboil? etc. But soon, it was how warm can I be for the least weight and weighing the jackets!