/ Information on Polish High Tatras?

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pdone on 22 Mar 2013
I am going with friends to the Polish Tatras at the end of June. We are staying in Zakopane. I am interested in finding out about alpine-type rock-climbing, routes to summits and that sort of climbing.

Climbing, as opposed to walking, guidebooks seem hard to obtain in the UK. Any information on which maps and mountaineering/climbing guidebooks to get would be appreciated.

Any other useful information would also be appreciated.
Christian Beck - on 22 Mar 2013
In reply to pdone: Mastertopo has topos of the main walls on the polish side.
There is also a superb mountain book shop just off the main street in Zakopane , they sell all the guides/maps you will need.
Hala Gasienicowa and Morskie oko are the main climbing areas on the polish side.
Consider staying in a hut for some of your stay as the approaches can be quite long..
Few links on old threads to huts on the Polish side.
Check out the Slovak side as well , even bigger walls.
The Slovak Tatra have 2 select guidebooks written by Marian Bobovcak and Marian Jacina...well worth getting.
On the Polish side Zamarla Turnia ,Koscielec and Mnich have some great routes on them.
On the Slovak side check out the south face of Kiezmarski.

http://taternik.net/

http://mastertopo.pl/plakaty/index.htm

Dont be put off by park regulations , especially on the Slovak side.
Make sure you have valid insurance , id card and your a member of a uiaa climbing club (BMC is fine)..and you will be fine.
If you go to Gerlach..as long as you climb a route harder than Uiaa II you will be fine ( Classic route is Guided only..unless in Descent)

Simon80 - on 23 Mar 2013
In reply to pdone:
Good advice above,you would have to base yourself in the huts to avoid wasting time for long approaches; Hala Gasienicowa has generally easier routes,stay either in Murowaniec hut or Betlejemka, which is a training centre for Polish Mountaineering Ass. And you will get all the info you need there,Morskie Oko, longer and more serious routes, especially on Kazalnica which is the biggest wall in Polish Tatras,again excellent climbing comunity there edpecially if you stay in the "old" hut.
dam13n - on 23 Mar 2013
In reply to pdone:
End of June could be still cold and wet. If rock climbing then aim for south facing walls like Zamarla Turnia (Polish side) or Volia Veza, Batizovski stit, Kezmarsky stit (Slovakian side). Stay in huts, approach from Zakopane can take hours. Email me if you need any specific info. Enjoy :)

map:
http://www.pza.org.pl/download/314598.pdf

Slovakian topo:
http://www.tatry.nfo.sk/
redsonja - on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to pdone: some of the Slovak routes don't open till first week in july. but you can maybe get round it with your BMC card.
Christian Beck - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to pdone: It is worth mentioning that the Slovak Tatras trails are indeed closed for general hiking over the winter...but this does not apply if your going climbing.
In general...If you have the paperwork mentioned above ,take the shortest route to the wall possible , can prove your going climbing (e.g have rope/rack)and are climbing above grade II..you can climb year round on the Slovak side.
Certain areas climbing is banned full stop e.g west Tatra , as its a nature reserve.
This does not seem to stop people though , as the west Tatra are famous for vertical pitches of frozen grass!

http://www.tanap.org/national-park-rules/



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ropeter - on 29 Mar 2013
In reply to pdone: Hi! If you'll want to climb you must have international climbing card. Same like as UIAA,but the best is JAMES.If you dont've you don't turn off the trail,and don't climb ,TANAP somtimes check it .This time a lot of new sports route with good protection but the old one routes you must be carefull .I know better the Slovak High Tatra i think thats side will be better. If you need more any information contact me.

Good luck.

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