Gear forum


View latest messages in My Forums
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.

Topic - Advice Please! Upgrading my Rock Shoes

Steve nevers on 24 Mar 2013
Hello all, was wondering if i could ask you more experienced types with some help in selection of a new shoe, I'm not looking for a definate answer, just a few pointers and some ideas of shoes to have a look at that i might have missed, i'm planning to go and get them fitted in person and check the fit before handing over cash whatever happens.

I currently own one pair of rock shoes, only got back into climbing into December 2012, and i picked up a pair Boreal Joker Plus mainly for indoor bouldering and sport and they've done me fairly well but my grades improved and the shoes seem to be designed more for 'fun' grades and comfort over edging ability etc. Which has been showing more and more recently.

My personal pros and cons of my current shoes:

Cons:
*Rubbers ok, but seems very thick and insensitive. Can't 'feel' a foothold in them at all really.
*Edges of the sole are horrid, anything small and/or negative they love to pop off, The rubber seems to 'roll' on anything tiny.
*The toe 'point' has let me down so many times it sometimes effects my confidence in the shoe when i'm standing on some tiny things.
(i've compared them to a friends knackered 8 year old Red Chillis and breezed up things the Jokers struggled to stick on.)

Pros:
*Fairly good shape around the heel, I have sticky out ankle bones and the shape in low enough to give them some space but the heel high enough (and covered in enough rubber) to make that part of the shoe still useful.
*Pretty comfortable for long sessions and low-ish grades/circuit training.

Sorry for the long ass post, but just trying to give some depth!

Basically i'm looking for a shoe thats a bit more 'sure' on small edges, and more of a 'performance' shoe i guess, I'm happy to keep my current pair for fun and circuit days, just after something for pushing the grades a little and more tailored towards the more 'thin' routes and problems.

Looking to spend 90-150, but also a bit skint for the next 6-9 months so after a solid pair and investment!
I've been considering the La Sportiva Katanas, Muiras and Pythons, Also the Tenyaya Masai & Ra, but thats only through research online and a single recommendation in person for each. Have tried a few pairs of Evolv shoes before but the heel seems to be huge on me and leaves why to much space.

Anyhow this post is way to long. Please help with some advice. Cheers.

TL:DR:
My current shoes are crap, any advice for a good shoe for horrid tiny edges?

... not showing 31 replies to this topic ...
Register as a New User or login to gain full access to the forums. Registration is quick and completely free.
If you are definitely logged on, press Ctrl+F5 keys to reload this page [read more]

Unregistered users can only read messages in the most recent topics.
ads.ukclimbing.com

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.

My Forums