/ UKC Fit Club Week 314

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JimmyKay - on 24 Mar 2013
Apologies it's up late. Have had an awful night with food poisoning. Will get the stats up this evening or tomorrow.
mrchewy - on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: No worries if you're ill fella - take plenty of water!
Ali - on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: I don't mind doing the stats for this week if you're feeling rough??
mrchewy - on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali: Just came back on to offer the same?
JimmyKay - on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:

I'll get them done. It'll give me something to do!
Ali - on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: Ok, well if you start chucking up part way through and can't stand to look at the screen let me know :-)
Kevster - on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to Ali:

I'll start,

Manage 32 in 5 minutes. Amazed myself!
mrchewy - on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: So after the hard session I'd had on the Sunday, the week went like this -

Mon - Boulder 4x4 on V0s. Tried a couple of problems grade V1.5 but arms knackered from Sunday.
Tue - 210 Dynamic movements. Boulder 14 x V0 no rests. Beastmaker 6 sets in deep 4finger slots - first two unaided, next six with foot on. 4min rests.
Wed - 40 pressups. 20 x V0, some twice. 5 x V1, within two goes. 1 x roof V2, first go! Worked some V1/2s, a V2.5 and attempted a V4 slab problem. Eek.
Thu - Rest. Utterly mullered.
Fri - Rest. Was going to head to the wall but still toast from the four days in a row.
Sat - Boulder warm-up. Then Beastmaker. 5 sets in deep 4finger slot. 3min rests and not aided (PB). 4 pullups in one go! Another PB.
Sun - Routes. Warm-up. Then 2nd 6a+ roof, pumped after 3 clip. 2nd 6a overhang, pumped 2 clip from top. Then TRoped 6b, pumped at 2 clips from top. TR 6b, pumped at 3 clips from top. TR 7a! Got to first clip, 6b+ in reality but at least I tried.

Really happy with the last 8 days. Needed the two days rest as I felt beasted. This morning the fingers were aching from the BM but still had a good session. Failed to get to the top of anything, the only reason being I got too pumped but didn't take any rests, kept going till nowt left. Both 6bs felt within my ability, yep, happy.

Bouldering, breezed up the roof V2 first go on Wed. In fact, I'd say this was maybe my best ever session as I got stuff done at V1 that really wasn't my style.

Pull-ups - managed 4 in a row! Get in. Too ruined from the BM to see how many I could do in five minutes tho. Sorry. The BM session was a best ever and I couldn't hold anything much after.

Obviously, getting to the top of the routes is an issue but at least that's just a matter of getting the mileage in. So more mileage, a BM session as I feel that really helps my weaknesses and do some more pullups.

Oh yeh - chuffed I got on that 7a, didn't get far and what I did was in reality 6b+ to the first clip but I held a little side pull hold that's never been on a problem I've tried before. If leading a 7a is the LTG... today I made a start down that long road.
AJM - on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Sounds like a solid week!

In reply to JimmyKay:

Hope you're feeling better soon! Apologies in advance for the monster post, am having a goal changeover so have old goals with comments plus the new goals.

Indoor/training priorities
  • Redpoint something hard indoors, and do aerocap laps at the end of each roped session to boost base fitness <so far ticked a 7c, 7b, 7a+. Need to ensure volume is kept high around the redpointing though>
  • Jump on the train to pumpsville!
  • Push bouldering as hard as possible. Do some campus boarding too - 1-3-5 on small rungs and 1-4-6 on medium at TCA <did some bouldering, got stronger, but elbow didn't enjoy campusing too much>
  • Try and do some vaguely systematic ancap work at Gloucester Wall <fail - too busy with van>
  • Proper slopy pocket hang on a wall Beastmaker; maybe mono hang too? <Never hit that magic place again where slopy pockets have felt like a possibility>
  • Rolling average weight/body fat - somewhere in the 71-2 region currently. Relatively happy with that at this stage

<STG> - pre Ceuse/S France trip in May
  • Until roughly my birthday, focus on hard moves. Either boulder problems (a non-p/e Fb7 in a route-relevant style - maybe Churnet/peak lime/Dartmoor/Snowdonia?) or bouldery routes (Global Solutions, maybe Black Snake Moan if it dries up, other short and punchy local contenders, maybe something on Portland?). <ticked - one grit 6C+-ish> <General Fail - too busy with van, plus weather unkind>
  • Spend bulk of March/April working on power endurance redpoints (maybe incl bouldering Ames Low at p/e 7A+) plus onsighting (Portland maybe?) to get head in gear for trip
  • Maybe get some pumpy E2/3 trad in if opportunity presents?

<MTG> - 2013
  • Complete the 8a pyramid (currently completed 6/8 x 7b+, 3/4 x 7c, 1/2 x 7c+, 0/1 x 8a)
  • Right Hand Man
  • 7c/+ "holiday tick" (UK route away from home and/or foreign route)
  • Some trad - 10x E3s, try some E4s?
  • Onsight mainly on or as prep for trips (see priority below for reasoning) - more 7a+s, try to onsight/flash 7b
  • Get in best shape possible for 2014 road trip - mainly this means going out as strong as possible since strength will inevitably fade over the trip

<LTG>
  • Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations (eg Dreadnought, Big Groove, Dream/Liberator, Lubyanka, short-ish alpine rock of that sort of grade)
  • E4 onsight
  • 8a before 30
  • 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags (currently done 7a+ at: Rodellar, Geyikbayiri)

<BHAG>
  • Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
  • E5 onsights
  • 8a/+ redpoints
  • 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
  • Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something

M: Don't think I did anything?
T: TCA. Good session - did a reasonably high volume of problems, the bulk of an easy circuit plus a few others, and probably knocked off another half dozen reds and an orange, which I was very chuffed with. Also got a supposedly 6C+ on the Mothership, had fallen off it loads previously but this time it felt piss. Good session.
W: Nothing I don't think
T: Warehouse. Warmed up - up a 6b down a 6a I think. Got on the 7b. Felt way stronger, burned up through the actual crux move but had sequence fal getting established on the headwall. Second go got established on the headwall but foot slipped on a move above. Third to, no mistakes! Then got on the orange 7c, managed to get relatively high but forgot sequence. Had a rest. Went and bashed up 49-in-5. Then came back downstairs, little break, and crushed the 7c! Fell off a 6c trying to warm down, beasted! Smash smash!
F: Nothing. Felt beasted. Elbow a bit grumbly.
S: went and met seankenny at the Westway which was fun. The auto belays seemed to be in use each time I wandered over so basically bouldered. Had good fun, nothing super hard, worked on steep technique trying to play with heels and toes and drop knees and shit, found a fun kneebar on one problem too. Got decent volume done I think plus attempts on harder stuff. Went back at the end, strapped on the pad and got the kneebar hands off. Very strenuous on the core. Very interesting to see how much it depended on the angle of my flagging leg, the exact placement of the knee, and the position of my upper body - not just about leg length! Good technique training.
S: Popped to the Warehouse this afternoon. 6b+ to warm up, then the 6c from Thursday, then a 7a+ I'd done before. Then rainbowed up to the roof on the green 7c, which is a big step up from the other one (ie at least actually solid 7c, maybe a bit harder not sure). Worked the sequence crossing the roof a bit. Then had a wee break and worked the bottom up to the roof - had crossed this ground before on my onsight go a week or so back but good to refine it. Then had a redpoint burn but got confused by some new tick marks my friend had put on the blind foot pockets on the traverse back right. Got it sorted and went up to the roof. Found a better sequence crossing through to the hold on the lip rather than sharing it. Linked through the roof to the top but fell off trying to clip the chains. Need to decide whether to skip the clip on the lip or maybe clip it very late. Good session.

A good week. Probably need a bit more aerobic stuff in there, at the moment it's all quite bouldery or higher end pe (hard redpoints) with far less lower end pe (intervals etc). Need to start mixing some of those in, maybe foot on campus to finish off sessions. But I was pleased with ticking hard problems Tuesday, with the redpoints on Thursday (plus progress on the pull-ups), with feeling relatively up on the technique on Saturday (and a pleasure to put another face to a fellow FitClubber) and am pleased with progress on the 7c today, feels like linking up into the crux is a possibility which means I can start hammering away at it, and the crux is about 20 moves in so it's a good length even if I spend a lot of the time falling off it. And I'm glad to be pulling proper volume again. I'd missed it.

Now if only the damned weather would get a bit more springlike I could see how this stuff translates onto actual rock (probably not a jot!)
mrchewy - on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM: Cheers Andy - seems we've both had a solid week. Fingers crossed for the weather to sort for the easter break.
Eagle River - on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Hope you're feeling better soon Jimmy.

STG: 7c (tick tremelo when it's dry again)
MTG: 8a by end of the year.

Wed: bit of mid-week Malham. Tremelo still wet so went up to the top deck and tried Toadal Recall (8a). Three goes on it before skin was too sore, figured out sequence for route, fierce crux move but difficulties end after about 12m, then 6m of about 6b+ to the top.

Sat: Indoor bouldering, felt pretty weak but haven't bouldered for ages. Still ticked some V6s and failed on some V7s.

I've decided that I want an 8a this year. It's something I want to get out of the way before life catches up with me. Toadal Recall could be suitable as I can do all the moves and it's cruxy, a crux I can do, rather than relying on stamina (which I don't have a lot of) or power endurance (which I might have). I think it'll be easier to work than raindogs as it's not as popular and doesn't get wet as quick as the bottom section of raindogs.
biscuit - on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Get well soon Jimmy.

What could have been good week has tailed off into an average one.

Bike - did 20k in 55min - much better, can go quicker for sure.

Swim - 1km in 23min - much better, can go quicker for sure.

Supposed to have done a second bike session today after not doing it on Friday due to bad weather. Sods law i ended up working today at very short notice so not got it done.

Pull ups - 50 reps in 5 min :0) After starting the whole thing off this week i've not got round to trying 100 in 10. Sorry !

Climbing - supposed to go thursday but had to work. Good day at work though with about 10 routes done in the 5+ to 6a+ range in the sun.Reminded me that it's not a bad way to earn a living.

Climbed on Saturday. 6a+ warm up, felt very sketchy, 6c felt just as sketchy. Only route dry was a 6 bolt 7b+. Very powerful, steep, sustained stuff. Got all the moves done on bolt to bolt. Started to rain while my mate was on it then when i was having a 2nd go ( bolt to bolt not RP ) a thunderstorm broke and i managed to slide my way up the 2nd half and we bailed. Felt v hard but also do able if that makes sense. Took a couple of 'proper' lead falls as well with no big worries.

Went out today after work on the all weather gym boulder and got pumped a few times while the dog ran around. 2 jobs done in one.

New clients are a great group who just want to climb as hard as they can so should routes up to 6c today and for the next 3 days. Shouldn't do any harm.

I will do the Centurion on Thursday ( promise ) and i am aiming to go to Chorro this weekend and try a 7b or 7b+.
mrchewy - on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit: Nice work on the swim chap, that's good progress.

S'funny really, your Thursday at work would be a monster amazing day out climbing for me! The only things I get to climb at work are ladders and steps. Ha.
thebigfriendlymoose - on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to Eagle River:
>Toadal Recall could be suitable...I think it'll be easier to work than raindogs as it's not as popular and doesn't get wet as quick as the bottom section of raindogs.

Sounds interesting - and well judged - Raindogs has been very crowded of late (my own extended flailings haven't helped!). I once belayed someone on Toadal and thought it looked tricky - I vaguely recall a very hard looking clip? That said, the apparent difficulties might have been due to my partner only having had one previous go and it being wet! By the way, if you need a partner for the top-deck, let me know - I have unfinished business with Herbie.

Jamming Dodger on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: Thanks for posting despite feeling poorly. Hope you get better soon.
Had a fairly decent week myself. Ive come to terms with the fact I need to sort my head out as well as keeping on top of the exercise and polish both sides of the coin, and if I end up feeling knackered, so what. What am I saving my energy for?
Monday: An inauspicious start... Nothing (still sore from Saturdays run)
Tuesday: 28 miles bike, 12 impromptu pull ups.
Wednesday 36 miles bike
Thursday: 28 miles bike
Friday: 28 miles bike (the most minging ride home ever).
Saturday: Rest
Sunday: 1hrs Thai Boxing class, 1/2 hour core circuits session, 2 mile run, 45 minutes swim.
The core session was great fun actually. Involved being pushed over and having to get back up as quickly as possible, hanging from monkey bars, killer exercises that Ive forgotten the name of and some weird knee tucks with my legs tied to ropes. Sounds kinky; was painful.
I also got my favourite bike back today. :D
My diet this week has been pretty good. No overeating, eaten quite "clean" and drank plenty of water. Lost another pound, so only 7lbs left to my target.
This week I hope to do 2 swim sessions, 3 core sessions, three rides to work, one boxing class and perhaps one proper bike ride (weather dependent). Ive re-joined Manchester Tri club so can go to unlimited swim sessions which will see me drop my paunch in no time.
The only real let down in terms of being a sporting Goddess this week will be a day-long drinking session on Friday, though it will no doubt be a few hours in the pub and then home in time for tea and my bed. Im old...
Have a great week everybody!
Helen


Jamming Dodger on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: Oh yeah, also ordered a basic wooden fingerboard to hang from for pull ups, knees to chest, strengthen fingers, blah blah blah... The architrave is too sharp for my fingers.
Si dH - on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:
Cheers Jimmy. Get well soon.

STG (spring): Onsight at least 2-3 new E2s on grit then try to get maybe 2 grit E3s done. Also do an E3 in Wales while away over Easter (possibly on slate).
MTG (summer): Onsight at least 3 E3s & maybe an E4 on peak limestone and at least 2 E3s further afield eg Wales or South coast. Redpoint at least 1 F7b/+ to help keep fitness levels up.
LTG (autumn): Onsight another 3 E3s on grit and an E4 either on limestone or grit.


M: Still ill, felt crap. Managed a few core exercises in between playing on silly computer games and blowing my nose.
T: Ditto but did a few chin-ups (proabbly 3-4 sets of 10 through the day) instead of the core exercises.
W: Still not right but well enough for work, and then a fingerboard session in the evening. Focussing on repeaters to try and start building a bit of PE.
T: Short of time so just went for the 100 chin-ups in 10 minutes - made it just!
F: Nothing
S: Rain stopped play so indoors at Alter Rock. Did about an hour on routes (nothing hard - onsighted a 5+, 6a, 6a+, 2x6b, 6b+, 6c, then partners had to leave) then about an hour bouldering. Didn't feel strong but still quite full of snot so not too bad.
S: Nothing

This cold has been a pain in the arse but is now almost better, unfortunately the weather has also been a pain in the arse and isn't. Really hoping for some dry weather next weekend, I've got five free days to play outside if it will only behave...

Si
Daniel Heath - on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: just in passing folks. Anyone around sella or finest rat in the next ten days? Let me know 07546487020
Eagle River - on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

I think you can extend the main bolt by the crux (to clip it off the good undercuts/sidepull) and skip the next one, it has the most bolts I've seen on a route at malham, perhaps anywhere. I think it's safe to skip about 3 of them.

The crux is a really powerful shoulder press thing which I did a few times off the rope. I'm under no illusions about it being easy but I think it's a realistic project. I'd much prefer to put a lot of time into an easier 8a than a hard 7c+!
NMN - on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Thanks JimmyKay.
Hope you're feeling better soon.

Running goals:
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Wasdale - get round.

STG:
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
MTG:
Push trad grade.
LTG:
Lead a tough E1.


M: - 4.47m treadmill, 0.8%.
T: am - 8.3m fell run, 1,062ft.
T: pm - indoor routes.
W: – 6.03m trail run, 317ft.
T: – indoor coaching session.
F: - 2.23m hills, 994ft.
S - 5.15m trail run, 300ft.
S - 4.3m trail run, 170ft.
Ali - on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: Lots done during the week to try and make up for a couple of days eating cake at the weekend!

M - an hour's intensive session at the Biscuit Factory: warm up, fingerboard session (7 reps on each of crimp, pockets and slopers), 20mins on the circuit board, leg lifts
T - BMF - total beast of a session, 50 reps of situps, press ups etc were just the start. Felt totally and utterly wasted at the end
W - Biscuit Factory - feeling achey but still managed a half decent session, until I almost landed on my face from the top of the wall - managed to get my arms out but gave myself proper shock through shoulders and neck. Quite sore so called it a day
T - Street-O - feeling sore and achey but managed to get round - didn't feel like my best run but managed to come in first woman
F - rest
S - rest
S - 55min run with a few hill reps, not great but mainly went out so I could justify eating cake! Neck still feeling a bit sore.

AJM - on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

Ticker!

;)

What would be your bet on conditions Easter weekend? I am looking with dismay at this cold and horrible weather, but have noted the bit on the long range guess the met office produces which suggests that perhaps the north and east will remain crisper and more baltic whilst the south west will end up ever so slightly milder but piss wet...
mattrm - on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Thanks JimmyKay. Hope you feel better soon.

STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 12st
1 swim (y), 1 run (y), 1 core(y), 1 climb(n), 3 stretch and relax(n)
Light breakfast, Soup for lunch, sensible evening meals - yup
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain 11st

Weight - 12st 2lbs

M - T - Rest
W - Core
T - 7 miles run
F - Rest
S - 250m swim
S - Rest (well not really, putting up flooring in the loft)

Shoulder still iffy. However didn't put on weight and did some exercise. After a month, foot is better so back to the running. Which is ace. Run was grim. Just above freezing, wet and windy. Got very cold. Lots of DIY this week, finished off the bulk of the flooring in the loft. Hitting the diet this week, want to hit 12st or below next week.

Goals for next week
1 swim, 1 run, 1 gym cardio, 2 core, 3 stretches
IainRUK - on 24 Mar 2013
In reply to mattrm:

Monday, Monday lunch steady 4.5 mile trail run. eve: treadmill warm up, 5k at 16 kph, cool down.
Tuesday, 5 miles at 6 am. afetrnoon: 1.5 hrs soccer. Evening treadmill, warm up, 3 x 1 mile at 18 kph
Wednesday: 6.5 miles on the treadmill. 2 miles at 10-15% incline..
Thursday: lunch: 4.5 mile trail run, pm: treadmill, 5 x 1k at 18 kph.
Friday: am 12.5 k, with 10 k at 15kph.. 10k at the gym again..
Saturday: 16 mile trail run in the Krkonose mountains on the Polish/Czech border.. http://eryridiaspora.blogspot.co.uk/
sunday: 10 mile trail run up Sniezka highest peak in czech republic.

steady week, 100k next weekend so starting to taper, just 75 miles or so for the week.
Eagle River - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

It's hard to say this far in advance, we'll be going for a look Friday and probably again on Monday. You can allow for the cold, it's just a southerly wind that ruins things.

Bearing in mind that I've been climbing there pretty much every weekend for the last 6 weeks and have never not been able to get on a worthwhile route, I think it's worth a punt. Unless snow drifts block the roads you should be OK.
Ally Smith on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:
2-weeks worth of update as i've been away skiing

LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham

MTG (Spring 2013) - Melanchollie at LPT & be fit for Terredets at Easter. Found video of La Marroncita at Oliana. Think this will be one of my Easter targets.

New STG (end Mar 2013)
- Re-hab ankle injuries & assess whether surgery is the answer or not.
- Continue finger boarding
- Lots of elbow eccentrics & sports massage - Zottman curls proving good combination exercise
- Get pumped 3 times a week - now aiming for Spanish route fitness
- Get back below 75kg (76.8kg and 6.8% after a weeks skiing - nae bad!)
- More core
- More an-cap
- More small holds; get reacquainted with Melanchollie

M - Bouldering at Hangar. Aero-cap on circuits
T - Rest. Big work meal. Feel fat.
W - Cave by lamplight. No progress. Should've sacked it off earlier.
T - Excellent after work an-cap session at Hoop-la buttress (finishing by lamplight) - all last years link-ups felt steady even on 4th repeat.
F - Fingerboarding. Repeaters 4x drag on BM2K slots (+6kg), 3x drag on BM2K sml slots (+4kg) 3x back-3 (+4kg). Felt pretty maxed out at end of session
S - Travel to La Plagne - quick ski upon arrival.
S - Pow!

M - more pow!
T - even more pow! Knee deep in places :-)
W - freshies and sunshine - does it get any better?
T - sore throat; had to go off piste to find pow
F - head cold; more off piste action over in Les Arcs
S - travel home; feeling beasted. Massive head-f*ck from g'friend - wants to be "friends" as she says i'm too nice for her. Eh, what's that all about? Not sure if I'm single now, as we sort of made up, but then I've not heard from her for 24hrs.
S - AWL. Got thru crux of steep 8a and forgot where to go. Felt frazzled a few routes later. Bug caught up with me?

Spain on Friday. Fingers crossed the weather gods will be kind to me?


pork pie girl - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

things have gone pear shaped in the last few days... my body is letting me down big time ... it better be just a blip because i'm a miserable git at the moment...

the week started quite well and then went down hill from there:

m- malham , x2 consenting, 2x 7th aardvark, 1x RP attempt.. half hearted as mainly just wanted to start leading at malham again and taking the falls.. so jumped off between last bolt and lower off three times.. each time going a tad higher.. felt ace afterwards, tired with adrenalin but happy with myself
pm- turbo trainer in garage... work rate good .. legs felt strong .. injury not an issue.. probably added a good 15% on to my workrate and maintained this for 45 mins... good music helps :o)

elbows a bit sore today , definitely didn't help with strength today(tennis elbow i was told.. in both elbows.. three days in a row at malham's done it)

t- pm gym workout...45 mins int training on bike.. felt good, weights inc wide grip pull ups.. felt good.. sets of 20 reps, 5 sets.. don't know how long they took me as was doing let extensions between sets. then core work

w- lunch time cardio.. int on bike and then core and stretching.

t- short cardio

f- int training on bike in gym... work rate great... pace increased by about 15% again and maintained this thru out the workout.. wnated to puke afterwards.. juts from trying hard .. core, stretching.
bouldering for 1.5 hrs... nothing harder than v5.. and worked some moves on two v7s.. felt ok considering i haven't bouldered properly for weeks

pm routes at wall... poor belaying (not being given slack when needed) early in the session sent my head west a bit and took ages to gain trust again... this coupled with the back of my pelivis hurting continuously made for a crap session... it went like this...all new routes at the wall..falling practise of a 6a+, led a 6b, shut down on a 7a+ ... climbed terribly, forced myself to do a 7a+, clipping positions felt awful and fell off it about 6 times... didn't feel right but fely happy to force myself to stay on it, make myself clip from crap positions and take the falls.. top roped a 7b... wanted to lead it but pelvis was knacking.
then.. weights in gym afterwards... and stretching

s- cleaned out van and packed for france... managed two hours, drove to gym and wall and went home because i couldn't lift my leg without alot of pain

rest of day on settee

s- settee.. **cked pelvis/back and a cold on top of it


chirpractor on holiday last week so couldn't get in to see him... seriously need my spine and pelvis knocking back into place.. i hoped falling off the bouldering wall on friday might click it all bak into place.. but quite the opposite happened me thinks.

off to chiropractor (different one)this afternoon for extra long session

this could bugger up our trip to france.. i might end up on the cat walk and on the top deck at malham for two weeks between sessions with the chiropractor...

i really don't think falling or catching falls is irrating the injury... it's not like this sort of thing really jerks me about... so i don't see the point in not climbing and biking once i'm all aligned again?

grumpy PPG

pork pie girl - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: cheers for sorting it this week jimmykay.. hope you're not throwing up any more
mrchewy - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to ally smith: Best of luck with the doris fella!
Jamming Dodger on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: Think the thai boxing could become a regular feature in my week. My calves (from the skipping), adductors and shoulders feel like someone's been at them with a baseball bat during the night.
Topped off with swimming, cycling, a bit of running and a miniscule amount of climbing, should be enough to give my muscles the element of surprise...
Core in general feels like it has had some attention also. Operation Premiata is go. :D
ads.ukclimbing.com
Jamming Dodger on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to ally smith: From a woman's perspective, sounds like you're dumped, or at best, merely an option rather than a priority for her. Apologies if im wrong, but good luck with it. Keep busy.
Nomics4sale - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Hey, sorry to hear your back/pelvis is playing up. You do quite a lot of different stuff so it might be hard to isolate what's causing it. My back gets much worse with running, biking and dropping off at the bouldering wall but it's really hard to tell what actually causes the problems. Hard to believe that climbing would be the problem for you though?
deacondeacon - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Hope your feeling better son Jimmy

Last weeks goals:
3 E2's and 3E1's- Not even close, only got out once in the snow, climbed a VS in Trainers and down jacket.
a new indoor f7a- Yep, at the Foundry it was graded f7a/7a+ and went in about 5 goes.
1 proper works woody session -Yes
Start a home pull up/ push up routine- yep, didn't realise how bad I was at pullups. Most I can do in one go is 8 but seeing improvements through the week
1 skateboard session-no

Next weeks goals:
Had such a poor week I'm going to keep the same goals this week
3E2's and 3E1's
New indoor 7a
continue home pull up/push up routine
1 skateboard session

STG-indoor f7a+ redpoint and a couple more F7A's on grit.

MTG-few routes on my wishlist, long johns slab, archangel, the rasp. (by end of april)

LTG- consolidate E4, at least 10 (by the end of 2013)

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Mon-Down to the big smoke for a hospital appointment

Tue-Nothing

Wed-Foundry Session, climbed a f7a/7a+ clean. After a few attempts went to mcdonalds for a big mac meal, came back and crushed it lol.


Thu-Stanage trad in the snow
Repeated about 10 classic VS in the snow which was loads of fun.
Slimmed down rack, approach shoes, down clothing and stayed tied together all the time. was a good laugh and slick, efficient climbing. Even stayed warm.
One new route a VS called Rubber Band, fairly forgettable.


Fri-Bouldering at the works. Good session, did the whole new black circuit then got stuck into some harder stuff.

Sat-Snowmageddon in Sheff, went to the lancaster to visit family

Sun-Same as Saturday

-----------------------------------

Well crap week (probably worst of the year) for climbing with only one trad day which, although fun wasn't very productive. only climbed three times and put on some weight for the first time in months. Feeling pretty disheartened tbh and can't see this week being much better, although I have a bouldering trip to Wales next weekend.

Oh I did the pull-up challenge. 50 in 6:06, better than I thought I'd do but would like to get it under 5 minutes.
Jamming Dodger on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: Ha, sounds like me. Although it seems like you operate on a higher level than me in terms of exercise committment, I get really arsey and frustrated if I dont exercise for ages or if I constantly feel like something beyond my control is holding me back.
Hope you find your level again soon and this weather picks up. Turboing is the necessity imposed by the devil!
Nomics4sale - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

Going for the big one, nice. With the way you've been progressing I'm sure you'll get it done in short time. It will be hard work like but that's the point really isn't it.
pork pie girl - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to ally smith:

sounds like you're climbing really well and it would be a shame if girlfriend issues get in the way... keep climbing, keep your chin up and what is meant to be is meant to be .. mean while you have climbing goals.. go get em! .. sorry if that's a bit simplistic but i often find climbing/ just being in the outdoors with mates really helps :o)
pork pie girl - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: agree i don't think climbing is the issue... or any of the other exercise i'm doing... i think i've probably fallen a but funny bouldering a few weeks ago and should've got it adjusted straight away instead of just stretching to try and sort it... i can't lift my right leg without alot of pain now... i'm having a two hour assessment and treatment session this afternoon.

anyway... you had a cracking week in spain.. update please :o)
pork pie girl - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to Haych: if i have two days out it feels terrible..i said to my partner yesterday as i was laying on the settee amongst loads of fleece blankets... 'what if this is me now... a life of being on the settee?'

she pissed herself laughing... called me dramatic... it's true :O)

turboing .. interval training does hurt but it really improves pace, oowre and endurance.. also realtively short sessions...i love hill climbing on my bike so it works well for me... a bloke at the gym does time trials and suggested concentrating on my wattage instead of level and speed would be a good plan.. but oh my god... it hurts more. it definitely helps having a turbo trainer in the garage too as means i can hop on after or before climbing during the winter :o) i love my garage...more than the house.
Exile - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Hope you're feeling better now?...

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7
RP - 7a+ / 7b
HP - E6
Winter - VI 7

Summer
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.

Weeks training:

M: Rest after day on the Ben and drive home yesterday.
T: Morning - 1hr climbing wall. Warm up, 4x4, core, 4x4. Evening - 45 minute fell run with my mate who use to be sponsored by Salomon - as a result he was on a recovery run while I nearly red lined(!) but good to get out.
W: 1hr 40 bouldering at wall. Blue power endurance traverse completed in two halves now.
T: Work.
F: Evening - Bouldering at climbing wall, one move off finishing power endurance traverse I working on twice and core. Good progress. S: Rest
S: 1hr 30 winter walking - tried to go winter climbing but got shut down by the wind big style. Bouldering at wall; 40min on power endurance traverse and core, felt very tired though so stopped early.
Stacked a lot in this week, made easier by some work meetings with later start times than I would normally start. going to be a little more difficult this week.

Feeling tired now - going to get some quality rest / diet over next two days before wall session again.

Jamming Dodger on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: You're officially mental! I sold my turbo trainer because I just couldnt bear to use it though I cant deny its benefits, esp with Sufferfest! Now though I run when its too bad to ride out.
I dont think you need to worry about a life languishing on the sofa for all eternity. One bad week if youre in pain is hardly the end of the world and it sounds like you earn your rests.
I also like hill climbs. This set the target weight for me which im currently trying to achieve, though I'll probably get to that target and think "...ummm... maybe a couple more pounds"... :)
grubes - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:
STG (Mar 2013):
More than 1 7 in spain maybe a grade push - Tick
MTG (July 2013)
Climb harder than 7a in UK and abroad.
Lead E3 try onsight
LTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Great wall at squamish
7b - Tick
E3/4
Weight loss! - Tick

This Weeks Goals:
Crush! - I will let you lot decide :o)

(I have included the full trip fo Sat 16/3 to sun 24/3)
S: tres ponts. Warmed up on the hardest 6a ever (6b+?). Next up I tried a slabby 7a got all the moves but one trying it on lead. Another go up on lead fell on the crux move pulled past rest clean to the chains. Stripped as it was sharp and did not want to split a tip again.
Tried a steep 7a but was too tired for the crux
S: raining am.
Lazy morning the headed to camarasa after a trip to the pastry shop for pain au chocolat.
Bit damp so got on a steep 7a+ to work on lead. Got all but one move first time up.
Rest.
Another go got a sequence for the crux but not strong enough for the move while holds were wet.
Next tried to onsight a 6c fell on the crux pulled back on did the move flashed the rest. Rested up the ticked 2nd go.
Next tried a pocketed wall at 7a felt nails I spelt tired stripped after 2nd go up
M: Bruixes - Terradets. Got there and all the 7a/7a+'s looked to be seeping/damp. So I got on Jam sesion after Ally's reccomendation. I wanted to get on tufas and the started fitted the bill. I thought sod it I try it on lead to begin with. I got to third bolt and fell reading the sequence wrong went bolt to bolt to half height.
I then went up on top rope doing all the of the moves but felt beyond me to put it together.
second go up on top rope I got all the moves and put some links and sequence together.
T: Collegats. Easy day. South facing crag high up in the sun :)
Tried a 5+ but the first move looked to of lost a few holds. Eventually committed after trying and reversing the first move 4/5 times. probably a Fb6A/+ boulder problem to a easier climbing (Fr5) and a steep pumpy top section (about a Fb5/+ boulder problem) so if that is 5+ ...
Next did a 6a that gets 6b on here 6b felt about right. Sat in the sun and belayed.
w: Tres ponts. Honestly I wanted to go back to terradets but happy for to get back to this amazing crag.
Warmed up trying to onsight a steep powerful tufa 7a fell at the crux. dogged to the top on lead. got a sequence. Rest.
Rp1 stupid mistake refined sequence. rest.
RP2 screwed up feet. fell. rest.
RP3 Tick went perfect first 7 of the year/trip.
Next I tried a 6b (gets 7a in UKC logbook probably right) and fell at first bolt slid down the start slab and hit my back on a rock. Sacked it off.
Ended the day onsighting a 6a+ that get 6b on here I would take 6c for it ..
T: Bruixes - terradets. Warmed up bolt to bolting Jam session. Then started RPing.
RP1 missed the slap to the jug and took a ride. Woo air time :)
RP2 same point pumped out and sweaty. The sun was now blaring on the crag with no cloud cover so rested for several hours.
RP3 had gone cold could not feel my fingers powered though to a new high point slipping when I could not feel what I was holding. one move for a poor rest (quick shake).
RP4 warmed up feeling tired. Again past the slap. did the travese and grabbed the sloped not the positive flatty taking a good fall as I skipped a bolt :) new high point
RP5 really tired. Set of did the slap clipped the bolt and foot popped doing the next move. Gutted too tired to finish the route I sent nik up to strip it.
F: Tres Ponts. Tired from the day before.
Warmed up trying the start of a 7a I go on, saturday the start is the crux. Did not have the finger strength for it so binned it.
I tried the slabby 7a and worked a new sequence for crux but I was too knackered and worried on splitting a tip on the sharp holds to binned it. Generally rested pottered about and belayed. Think I may have climbed something on top rope to strip a route.
S: Bruixes - Terradets. Warmed up Bolt to bolting Jam sesion. Rested belayed nomics bolt to bolting it and rested a bit longer. I saw the sun was coming round to the face so decided to go while cold.
RP6 Bottom tufa section was fine used every half shake but kept moving to avoid flash pump. Did the slap and traverse fine skipped the bolt and big move to the flatty half rest. Clipped the bolt by my knee. did the next thinner section for the next too bolts fine taking the half shakes. Then came the mantel type move. I did it with a load grunt (not quite a power scream) and was at the good rest with two hard moves left new high point. Fingers felt numb rested until they were warm and I relaxed and fired out the top with no problem. BOOM! First 7b Get the f*ck in!!
Later I tried a very wet 6a+ and slipped off wet hold thought sod it and layed in the sun all day.
I also met sasha diguilian at the carg ... <3 she borrowed my guidebook. I also saw here pull some amazing move onsighting a 8a as a warm up .. she was doing the 7c start but felt okay and tried the extension ...
S: Tres points mate had a 7c+ project he wanted to finish so I thought sod it I will get on the sharp crimpy painful slab who cares if I split a tip its the last day. Safe to say I cruised it on the warm up setting the draws .. get it sat around and belayed all day.
I breifly tried the bottom of one of the project lines Nik reconned 8a/+ felt fb6b for just the first two bolts.
Ended the day repeating the powerful tufa 7a clean to strip the draws. Then drove to the airport and back home.
I also had to help dig my mates car out from under 3 ft of snow so he could drive home from mine.

Next week goals:
Rest maybe ...

What an awesome trip!
7bx1 (rp)
7ax2 (rp)
6cx1 (rp)
6bx3 all onsight 2 felt harder
6a+x1 probably 6b+
5+x1 at least 6b

9 days on climbing no full rest days climbing every day and got on a route in the 7's every day (except one).

Probably the best fit club post I have had to write. :o)
Luke Owens - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: Thanks Jimmy, get well soon beast!

STG - F7b (Tick!) and Font 7A (Tick!)
MTG - F7c and Font 7A+
LTG - F8a and Font 7B/+


Revised STG (Next couple of months) - F7b+ and another Font 7A

Monday - Rest

Tuesday - Pantymwyn - Poured down with rain and misty all day. Stayed optimistic and headed down there after work in desperation to try Robert Duvall (Font 7A) again. Unbelievably all of the Gorge was bone dry! Warmed up traversing and then sent it first go! Massively psyched! First of the grade for me. Both short term goals ticked!

Video: http://www.vimeo.com/62306703

Wednesday - Rest

Thursday - Oswestry Indoor Bouldering - Final round of the comp, worst score I've ever had but had fun all the same, helping the girlfriend out on some easier problems. Plenty of friends at the wall, good scene. Did a lot of climbing.

Friday - Fingerboard Repeaters - 5 sec hangs, 5 sec rest x 6 (2 minutes rest between sets)

1. One hand on 20's one hand on 35's on Slopers.
2. Alternate hands as above.
3. Middle 2
4. Pinch grip with a 20kg weight attached to a piece of 2x4.
5. Pinch grip with other hand as above.
6. Front 3 - open hand.
(Did 2 sets of all the above hangs)

Saturday - Snowed in/ill

Sunday - Snowed in/ill - Spent 2+ hours shovelling back car park...
Luke Owens - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes:

Congrats on the 7b dude! Sounds like a great trip!
Jamming Dodger on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to Luke Owens: I bet two hours shovelling snow was a pretty decent workout! Id be interested to see the stats from that with a HR monitor (sad, I know...) but in this weather youve got to take gains from exercise when you can!
Nomics4sale - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Thanks JimmyKay, get well soon :-)

My report from the coaching holiday with Nik, grubes and co:

Sat: Tres Ponts, 2 x 6b onsight warm up then top roped an ace but unnamed 7b which I had spotted on my previous visit in feb. Had 2 top ropes on it, it felt hard with a definite hard for shorties crux.
Sun: Uninspired day at Camarasa. Onsighted a 6a and then dogged a nails 6b+. Would have RPed it but got rained off.
Mon: Terradets, got on Jam Session, 7b, on top rope. It felt nails.
Tues: Collegats, rest day for me as I wanted to save my energies for the 7b projects. Onisghted a 6b and sat on a rope to take some pics of Nik on a route.
Wed: Tres Ponts 2 x 6b (1 onsight, 1 repeat) then dogged my way up the unnamed 7b twice.
Thurs: Collegats, dogged my way up Jam Session. Felt a bit better about maybe doing it.
Fri: Tres Ponts, dogged up the unnamed 7b to put clips in then led it clean next go. Woop woop! Sooo chuffed!
Sat: Dogged my way up Jam Session then watched grubes cruise it. Took me 4 RPs to get it but eventually managed to do it. By the 4th RP it almost felt easy! Dead chuffed again!
Sun: Tres Points, totally knackered. RPed a tufa 7a which I'd had 2 top ropes on in feb.

Ace trip, really really good and I'm very pleased with my two 7b RPs. Hopefully set me up for the Summer. Another really good holiday with Nik, so I've signed up for another one in Autumn. Yes, I am his best customer!
Luke Owens - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to Haych:

Haha, I should of wore my HR monitor, would of been interesting! Didn't see it as a workout as I was pretty run down at the same time.

I was just psyched to get my car out, didn't want to be stuck all this week!
Nomics4sale - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

2 hours of chiro, yikes! hope it sorts it out for your France trip.

Yep, great holiday, I'd say the best ever but Nik would want a performance bonus!

Luke Owens - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Great trip for you guys, top effort getting the unnamed 7b so quick!
grubes - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:
thanks it was really not my style too. it was a 32m overhanging stamina route. Sustained varied climbing. Absolutely brillliant.

Felt like a 12m 6b+/c of steep sustained technical tufa climbing on pinches side pulls and undercuts, to a big move either a dyno or a big slap with really high feet to jugs. Then more sustained technical climbing harder moves but not as steep and half rests ending with a hard mantel at 25-28m ish and a good rest. ending with 5/6 meter of climbing with a couple of hard moves but very dropable.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=58519
mrchewy - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes: Crush? I guess we can say you did... :-P
grubes - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes: just seen ukc says its 28m long based on the amount of rope left from my 70 I would guess it was a bit longer
grubes - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: thanks :)
Nomics4sale - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:

Thanks, yeah it's an ace route. You should get out there if you get a chance, lots of quality 7s.
grubes - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: Well done on getting on the 7a have another go when a little fresher and see if you can get further.
That week sounds hard. good effort
grubes - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to ally smith:
Hope you enjoy terradets as much as I did. As I sad it had some seepage I will post a picture of the crag when I get some time at home to give you an idea of where it is. That crag had a great atmoshpere when I was there. Everyone really friendly and psyched to be climbing at there limit.

It was very hot in the sun but nice before the sun came round and early evening. Sun set at 7ish and was light till 7.30. Temperature dropped at 4.30 ish obivously with clocks changing these timings will be out after saturday.
Not sure if you have done it but my mate enjoyed trying Red Bull 7c+ and it has a 8a extension through the roof. look like an awesome route. Good rest before the top assualt too.
mrchewy - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes: Cheers. To be honest, I managed the 6b+ish start fine and when it got hard, I was pumped to high hell. Only tried a 6b+ once on lead, plus tried to TRope a 6b+ vertical twice this year, so I was being a bit optimistic!
Much happier with the vertical 6b I got near the top of, nasty little crimps (not my style) everywhere and I managed to find a decent rest halfway up. I'll managed that on a top rope next time.

Aching top to toe today, much like you must be, so it's def a rest day - but the injuries seem to be behind me.

The coaching holidays with Nik seem worthwhile then?
grubes - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:
From my experience, yes. This is my second trip and on both trips I have jumped a grade.
First trip I went from 6c to 7a.
This trip I went from 7a to 7b.
The coaching and advice is a great benefit.

THe other side of the trip is the team of people wanting to try hard and push there grade. There is nothing better than the psyche of team ascents at your limit.

I guess if your the type of person wanting to go on these trips you are the sort of person wanting to get a new PB. So everyone feeds off of each other.

Nomics got her first 7b then her second the day after and a 7a the day after that.
I got my first 7b, a 7a in a day (should of done it first rp or onsight/flash) and another 7a with not too much work. I in 4 days equalled the total number of route I had done in the 7's in the previous 12 months.
Another guy on the trip climbed his first 7c+.

When everyone is climbing at there limit it makes you climb harder.

Anyway that enough of a recommendation from me I am sure others that have had sessions with Nik or climbed with Nik can give there thoughts.
AJM - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes and Nomics4sale:

Hats off - top efforts both! Very jealous. So are you racing each other to 7b+ then? ;)

In reply to Luke Owens:

Top job - you need some more stretching goals!!
AJM - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes:

I've never done an actual coaching holiday but can definitely recommend having the right team on board for totally boosting what you get from a trip - seeing other people digging in, going for the moves, taking the whippers and so on helps build the kind of atmosphere where you can really try hard. I've never had quite as good trips when that energy hasn't been there regardless of my training in the run-up.
grubes - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:
No I have achieved my goal for this year. I am gonna focus on trad fitness and learning to jam from now till september ready for the big trip of the year.
So I would be very disappointed if I beat Nomics. Plus she has already been on a 7b+ (space race) and I have not
;o)
ads.ukclimbing.com
mrchewy - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes: Hehe - sounds like a cop out! Whereabouts you gonna learn to jam? Needs to be big trad routes and not the Peak I guess?
JimmyKay - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (313) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=542547&v=1#x7264893

Posters:
Ali – good effort on your orienteering. I’ really enjoying it at the moment. It’s basically adding competition into walking. And as I’m probably the most competitive person I know it’s easy to see why I’d like it!
Daniel Heath – Geez bud that does sound like a taxing session on Weds. I usually do that with a boulder problem (repeat it over and over after getting it) but it must be pretty hard work doing it on a route. Bet you felt like you’d had a good work out after that! How is the 8a coming on?
deacondeacon – I wish I could call 3 days outdoors in a week an average week! Did you solo Fate? I thought it was a bit nervy at the top but end up doing it a few times after I did it as it was such a good slab! I look forward to seeing you complete your MTG ticklist.
grubes – I am so jealous. Well done. I’ll be up to Yorkshire during the Easter holidays if you fancy some Yorkshire Lime/grit. Hope you achieved everything you wanted in Spain – a little bit of facebook stalking says you may have achieved even more! Sasha ;)
Si dH – Being ill is a shitter isn’t it?! Although I always feel like I’ve worked my core a fair amount when I spend all night being sick… Swings and roundabouts… &#61514; Keep those fingerboard sessions up – not long until the weather improves!
NMN – Lots of good running to add to the bank there. Any tough E1’s in mind?
AJM - Despite not ticking any of the routes bud it sounds like you had an awesome training night on Wednesday. No point being disappointed with that amount of traffic on those routes. I should be starting to head down brean again in the next few weeks if you are around and keen?
Nomics4sale – I hope your psyche improved somewhat and would like to be reading some of your achievements in this week’s post. Mega jealous of you guys being out and about in Europe this week! See you on the Yokshire Lime over Easter maybe?
Eagle River – Looks like a sign to me! Falling off Raindogs a lot is great training. Make sure you break it up with attempts at other routes in the day though so you don’t start losing psyche! I’ll be up to Yorkshire for a couple of days over Easter if you are out and about?
Ian Bell – Have a good trip Ian. Look forward to hearing about any climbing achievements on your return!
leon – Hope the training plan has gone well. You have shown good commitment to the goal being able to stick to it. I always think about starting one and then never end up sticking to it. I’ll be keeping an eye on your climbing over the next couple of weeks to see if it pays off.
DoctorU – Good effort on beating your last run time by 3minutes! That’s a big step up. Also Llandulas is a really nice little venue, you’ll have some fun there when you get leading!
JimmyKay – Weak and ill. Pathetic….
mattrm – Make sure you stay keen over the next few months. Injury is usually the time when most people lose faith in climbing. Make sure you keep posting on here (which I’m sure you will)
Kevster – Did you try the pull-up challenge. Make sure you stay psyched. Not long until the weather starts to improve. Use what’s left of the indoor season to gain as much strength as possible!!
IainRUK – Your running always inspires me. I always feel like I have to make the choice between the two. Either focus entirely on climbing or running as I don’t feel like I can fully recover from one or the other in a week. Anyway, 1 week to your 100K – Let’s see all the training pay off!!
maria85 – Just keep plugging away at those training sessions. You’re another person who puts my week to shame. I just don’t get how you can fit so much in to a week. Inspiring.
Exile – Bloody hell. What a week! I bet you are chuffed with all of that. Do you have your own woody or do you climb at a wall? I can’t see your goals being that much of a problem if you are that psyched. Inspiring week.
pork pie girl – Do you realise how jealous it makes me reading about how often you are at Malham?! You are going for the Chris Sharma approach to training I see. Climb more to get better at climbing!
seankenny – Some bouldering is better than no bouldering. Hope you are feeling better.
Luke Owens – That 7b looks really good Luke. I’ve been meaning to get down ruthin for some time now. Also, you’ve got plenty to go at at Panty as well. You might see a couple of my friends down there. Byron (usually trying something that looks impossible) virtually lives there. Have you tried Panty’s Down yet?
kylieo – Try not to get bored of your 7a+. Keep at it! Although make sure you keep mixing it up with other routes down at the wall. Get warmed up. Then try it while your fresh!
biscuit – Bloody hell bud that’s a lot to fit in a week. Good effort. Shame you narrowly missed that 7a O/S. I’m also very jealous you’ve found a load of fresh boulders. Put up any decent routes this week? I take it the pictures from your blog are the new boulders? Make sure you don’t injure yourself on that skateboard!
Joughton – It seems like good week after good week for you Jake. Again – Well done! Sound like you absolutely dominated that competition. I look forward to seeing you out and about this summer crushing some hard limestone classics!
mrchewy – Glad that you are still psyched to meet your goals despite the injury. Looks like you had a good session on the ropes. Make sure you carry that confidence into your next session.
Haych – That’s an exercise filled week! Good effort. I’m just about to buy a bike on the cycle2work scheme so I can get involved in some triathlons. Well done for losing 13lbs!! Big achievement.

Welcome Back!
Sankey – Sounds like a good couple of weeks buddy! When is your trip to Spain and what part are you going to? You can get loads of suggestions from people on here for most parts of Spain!

New-Comers!
Twigger – You’ve finally signed up! Well done. Hopefully you’ll be able to use this to push yourself into doing a bit more of everything. I’m getting a bike soon and am also looking at doing a couple of dual/tri’s in the summer. Also – when are you planning on getting up to Stanage to finish off Quietus?

Absentees
Ally Smith
Jamming Dodger
grubes - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:
Gonna focus on lots of routes in the peak. I.e millstone laps, ramshaw skin sherreders I think. If I get chance I will head to fairhead for long pitches.
grubes - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:
> grubes – I am so jealous. Well done. I’ll be up to Yorkshire during the Easter holidays if you fancy some Yorkshire Lime/grit. Hope you achieved everything you wanted in Spain – a little bit of facebook stalking says you may have achieved even more! Sasha ;)
Cheers mate. Yup what a week. Keen for the weekend, I have no plans currently. I will send you an e-mail.
AJM - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Cheers JK. Would be up for Brean as/when it warms plus always got Cheddar stuff too.

you're thinking about Yorkshire Easter let me know as if I go ill probably drive close by on the way through.
mrchewy - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes: Jamming is a serious issue with me - not the worry of losing skin but just no idea of what I doing. I may come and have a nose one weekend and get some tips, if that was alright with you?
mrchewy - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: Ta Jimmey - yep, carried the enthusiasm into this week with a bang!
Hope you're feeling a lot better chap.
JimmyKay - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:

I've got a DoE Gold expedition on Thurs-Sat so would be coming up on the sat evening/sun morning. So would probably meet you up there.
JimmyKay - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

I've eaten a bowl of cereal today! Wahey. Crazy headache though - from dehydration. What a killer.
grubes - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: yeah no worries just let me know when.
Nomics4sale - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes, AJM and mrchewy:

Definitely ot a competition!

And I agree with grubes about the encouraging vibe on the coaching holidays, it's what makes the difference between trying hard and just coasting along. Everyone is there to try hard and push their grade so it's natural to do the same.

I'd also say that the belaying is part of it too. I took a lot of falls on this holiday, and every one of them was a nice soft and safe landing. I had no concerns about falling off and I think that helps.
Jamming Dodger on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: Hacyh and Jamming Dodger = the same person. No absenteeism on my part, thank you!
mrchewy - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes: Cool. Best stock up on tape then! Next four wkds are mad busy with club stuff and a wedding but after that, my time's mine.
Luke Owens - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Cheers Jimmy, my new 7b is at Denbigh not Ruthin though! (Don't want to send you in the wrong direction! haha) All the routes are great, here's the logbook page:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=18533

I'm psyched for Pantymwyn now, after doing Robert Duvall on Tuesday i'm keen for the stuff in the main cave, they're completely my anti-style! (I'm used to vertical and crimpy!)

Hopefully see you down there sometime.
Twigger on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Was it an Adam's Place special? - hope you are better; relish the weight loss!

I look forward to spanking you on a bike! (though that probably won't happen anyway)

Will get on Quietus as soon as the weather warrants a weekend trip up, be good if you held my ropes...?

Good week but tailed off due to temperature depression...

M - 18mile road ride after work, just over an hour - not quick but good to be back in the saddle
T - Rest - picked up some alloys for a mate in Amazingstoke
W - 10K PB run - 45.31 - pretty happy, on slippery but flat route, nearly passed out on the walk back
T - RCC, fit girl Thursday it was not, disappointed by the lack of distractions. 6c O/S, 6c worked, 6c+ 1st RP after playing last week. Then teased out some bouldering.
F - 10 pints
S - Headache; managed to get out to some bridges near Marlborough and play on a 7A traverse, good for finger strength and an evening venue
S - F1, love the new montages, Vettel is a ****

Happy with the 10K but felt terrible, gonna have a week of long easy runs
7a should come soon, felt so tired after 10K, a fresh session will see this off.

Heading to south Wales for Easter (family gathering), might do a bit of shunting at Gilwern hill but will most likely be a lazy week bar the odd hilly run!
pork pie girl - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: just wait til i'm part time... as much time on rock as possible and mileage on the bike

i find specific climbing training a bit boring.. just climbing to get better at climbing floats my boat ... but the there has been a risk of wanting to feel much stronger at malham before making the transition to leading.. as i've just been top roping since the beginnig of feb... had aweek doing lots of leading in spain.. but malham is malham.. the only way to get better there is to climb there... it's easy to get intimidated by the thought of leading, none of it feels easy to me so making the transition to leading last week felt good...the cold does put me off leading... i don't expect brilliant results right now.. just trying really hard, leading each time .. and not feeling quite so sick about falling there
pork pie girl - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: and grubes..sounds like a brilliant trip .. lots of support and encouragement ... it's only march... imagine what you could achieve by later on in the year?
Nomics4sale - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:

Didn't see your 7A tick before, nice one! And that 7b looks ace. Apart from the slopers...
Nomics4sale - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

cheers, yep, it's nice to have goal ticked early doors. Expect we'll see some good ticks from your trip to France. Got any particular routes or crags on your list?
pork pie girl - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: fancy lou passo, st ledger , possibly baume rousse and baume noire... buis les barronies area, i'd like to get on some 7cs.. but expect a good spanking at that grade. if a route really draws me and it's a good grade for me i'll be happy to work it as we'll have two weeks.. i'd be happy dogging 7cs at this stage though and i know they won't be easy over there
AJM - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Only had a day at St Leger but it looks amazing. The 7b+ at Baume Rousseau looks well fun, all big holds.

you like techy and pockett Malaucene is nice.
deacondeacon - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:
> deacondeacon – I wish I could call 3 days outdoors in a week an average week! Did you solo Fate? I thought it was a bit nervy at the top but end up doing it a few times after I did it as it was such a good slab! I look forward to seeing you complete your MTG ticklist.

Thanks Jimmy, I had a rope on but didn't place any gear. The pockets looked promising for gear from the floor but were crap when I got up there. The top-out proved to be the crux as it was wet and had a foot of snow on it. It's Definitely going on the soloing circuit now though.

As for my medium term goals I just need to get on them I need perfect conditions for Long Johns and Archangel, so once this snow goes I'll be getting on them. Can't wait.


pork pie girl - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM: which sectors are they on? yeah, it looks brilliant in the guide books... quite a big area with loads of routes.
AJM - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Malaucene is a crag a little south of Baume Rousse. Pictures in Rockfax or online probably. Tried the nouveau monde 7b+ which is good but has some techy thin stuff on little pockets. Did Pipougne I think it was, a 7a to its right, a little further up the hill.

The 7b+ at baume rousse was Rahan fils de Crao or something. Super steep but all the holds looked like monsters.
pork pie girl - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM: ah right, thought you were talking about routes at st leger... had a look in the book at that 7b+s at baume rousse.. was wondering about it .. might be too steep for me.. we'll see

will check out the other crag

if i can get this injury to settle down in time to drive down there om thursday night

pork pie girl - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: OPINIONS PLEASE

we have two weeks off from this friday onwards, e are planning on going down to drome, we have a ferry crossing that can be changed for a tenner, my pelvis is worrying me, something that could ease right off in the next few days or could continue to be a problem for a week or so... it's uncomfortable and has stopped me climbing for the last few days (three days)

the forecast for malham for the weekend and all next week is looking good.

the forecast for drome is also ok... only 2 degrees warmer

given the injury issue, the fact the difference in both forecasts is minimal .. what would you do... go to france for a fortnight or go to malham and continue with routes you really fancy? there will also be routes in drome that we really fancy too... hmmm
mrchewy - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: Keep on driving and get to Spain!
pork pie girl - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: well... we have discussed that too.

icing back and pelvis now... buggery bollocks
JimmyKay - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Come to Spain?
mrchewy - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: Just a thought - how will you cope with a long drive? Sitting still may aggravate it.
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pork pie girl - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy: that's what my worry is.. that's exactly what's giving me jip
AJM - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

I wrote a long reply and lost it. which forecast are you looking at?

http://www.yr.no/place/France/Provence-Alpes-Côte_d’Azur/Apt/long.html

http://www.yr.no/place/France/Provence-Alpes-Côte_d’Azur/Malaucène/long.html

Look a bit more than a few degrees warmer than here!

There are sun traps aplenty, those forecasts suggest over ten degrees warmer than Malham this weekend (personally I'd describe the Malham forecast as just barely tolerable, but then I'm a southern softie who likes the air temperature to be more than a degree above freezing when there's precious little sun forecast) - I can't comment on the pelvis and how that will affect things but the French weather based on those links seems a hell of a lot nicer than here...
pork pie girl - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: we've got some cycling objectives too and want to get on the bikes most days after climbing... also don't wmat to spend loads on the trip as going part time next month... flights during eatsre school hols will be really expensive
pork pie girl - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM: cheers.. will have a look (7 degrees according to malham weather station.. tropical in comparison to what we've all been subjecting ourselves too lately)

biscuit - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Hope you get well soon, sounds nasty.

Keep your chin up and learn lessons - don't break yourself !

A short rest will not harm any performance levels.

Sankey - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: Cheers Jimmy, hope you recover quick, sounds grim.

Upcoming trip (week after next) is going to be based in Siurana for 6 days. Not climbed there, so really looking forward to it. Not sure if the style will suit me as much as the long jug fests in Turkey, pictures make it look more technical and fingery, but hope to try for some redpoints around 6c.

On my return, is all guns blazing for a UK 7a tick, in the wonderful Spring weather that must be around the corner...


M:
T:
W: New problems at Matrix, up to 6a+
T:
F:
S: Matrix, working a handful of steep 6b's, good session: been aching afterwards
S: Static bike 8.5 km


STG: At least 6c RP in Siurana

MTG: Sport 7a project

LTG: ?
biscuit - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Just seen your post about your trip.

How about asking your partner and taking her advice ?

Partly tongue in cheek but it's her holiday too bt she also has your best interests at heart and knows you better than anyone on here.

Partner not withstanding i would say change it and get to Malham as much as you are able. Drome can always be done another time an the weather doesn't look much better. You may get some great sessions at Malham OR you may remain injured BUT be in a place where you can get it sorted easily.

Either is better than going on holiday and having it spoiled for both of you due.
AJM - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to Sankey:

They say (and I base this on what they say rather than personal experience, but they are folk who know what's what) that Raco de Missa (and perhaps other) sectors at Montsant are mindless stamina pocket pulling on long pitches, and its like 20 minutes drive from Siurana.

Just a thought. Got some 7as that look like they're on good walls too.
biscuit - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes & Nomics:

BOOOOOOM !

It won't let me change font size to MASSIVE.

Awesome work the pair of you well done guys.
Joughton on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to grubes: Well done on the 7b mate, chuffed for you! I've done that 7a at Tres Ponts and it's no push over, good effort, and I'm massively jealous you got to meet Sasha!
Joughton on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: Just read your report too, great effort!! Tres Ponts is just an awesome crag, I think that 7b might be the best sport route I've ever done, I'm psyched for you!
Kevster - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Cheers Jimmy.

Sounds like psyche and crushing is all over the thread. Skills those who got out!
Terrible week training wise for me - work, GF, nights out, working sat and sun & partner commitments all added up. This week looks little better, given the weather and the way it is looking.
The chat about Malham is really making me think I should give it a go soon. Maybe a day over the easter weekend. Failing that maybe some grit, see if the limestone trad confidence will translate.

32 pull ups in 5 mins. I may try it again in a few weeks, see if the training is doing anything in the arm department.

Haven't stated my goals for a while.
Boils down to E4 and 7c/8a really. I do have plenty of ambition for this year, just need to get on the harder climbs at some point.

Cheers, Kev
Ali - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: What a nightmare! I really hope you start feeling better soon :-(

If it were me, I would go to France, but that's mainly because I don't really feel like its a proper holiday if I stay at home! Plus you have Malham on your doorstep so can get on routes there any time. Have you thought about breaking up the drive a bit and perhaps having a couple of days biking on the way down?

That said, if you know its going to be really painful driving then that may be the decider?
Ali - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale & grubes: Awesome effort guys!!! Have never really gone for the pressure of redpointing on a trip - how did you find the pressure? Maybe I'll have to give it a try...
Joughton on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: Cheers Jimmy, hope you're feeling better soon! Yeah I can't wait for this weather too improve so I can apply this winter's training to High Tor and Pembroke!

This week was a bit rubbish because I've been all ill, still managed to get a couple of sessions in though -

Mon - Stockport, not a great session but not too bad. Warmed up then onsighted 7a, 7b, 7a+, 7a. Fell of high on a mega hard 7b+, and also on the stupidest 7a in the world! Eagle River will probably know which one I mean...
Tue - rest, ill
Wed - My 17th Birthday! Bit dissapointed as I was hoping the weather would've improved by now so I could've tried to do an 8a at 16 as planned but unfortunately not:( Still I had a fun day despite being ill.
Thur-Sat - even iller...
Sun - feeling better, last ditch attempt to improve my leading ladder score by driving up to Harrogate Wall. Had a decent go at all the routes, though it's a lot shorter than I'm used to so they were pretty bouldery. onsighted everything up to 7b, then fell off the 7c. Very determinedly got it second go, cutting loose twice including one point of contact on the last hold, very nearly falling clipping the chains! Had a go at the 8a and did what I think was the crux but I was too exhausted from the 7c to give it a proper go.

So a bit of a rubbish week but it could've been worse! I'm off to France for a week next week (I know it's ridiculous to have two holidays so close), weather doesn't look great but there's plenty of wet weather options. Hoping to get a couple of 7b+s, there's a crag called Chateauvert which has about twenty routes in the high 7's, all 30m long and sustained and pockety so I'm quietly hoping for a 7c onsight too.

So I'll be missing next week... cheers, Jake

Oh and I tried the pull up challenge, managed 50 in five minutes on my first try doing 5 every 30 seconds, but didn't bother with the centurion because I was already boxed!
Ali - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: Thanks Jimmy...I am also rather competitive, though tend to do better orienteering (and climbing) when I don't have any pressure :-s Weird...

Feeling any better?
AJM - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to Joughton:

Chateauvert is nice, you'll enjoy it.

The main wall is really cool. Seem to remember it stays dry in light rain. And there's a 7b+ in a cave called power where the climber is actually lower than the belayer after 7 bolts, all of which can be equipped from the ground with a clipstick :) proper horizontal fun.
useful on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: Get well soon, Jimmy. Food poisoning is never nice, but generally passes quickly (apologies for the pun!).

17/3 (Update): I actually used the Beastmaker for a few goes, although no real "session" - just wanted to test the fingers were ok.
18/3 M: Nothing, a long drive, exhausted after the weekend, so slept for 13 hours straight...
19/3 Tu: Liverpool Awesome Walls: There were a few routes from the BMC Lead Competition up, so we tried some of these...
5+TR, 5+L, 6a+L(fail)->5, 6a+TR, THE fingery 6a+L (Clean YAY!), 6a+L dogged (2 rests, didn't want to wipe out the chap climbing on the route next to me!), 6bL 5th clip of 9 (5/9) then 3 falls. 6c+ 2/8 then wimped onto the grade 5! 6aL, 6bL 3/9->5 finish.
20/3 W: Only time for 2 circuits of 4 weights circuits (late out of work, then meeting friends for cinema).
21/3 Th: A quick escape from the office: The snow descended...
22/3 F: Stu McAleese talk in Caban Cyf near Llanberis - Motivational! (that's my excuse).
23/3 Sa: Slack day - did nothing. This cold weather is knocking my motivation.
24/3 Su: Scrambled up Penmaen Ridge, wandered around the tops of Conwy Mountain, and part-solo'ed, part trad-led a short crack route! My first trad lead! finally! :D It's not in the Crags Database though... :(
--
Goals:
STG:
Submit report on Sunday - Oops, only 1 day...
Fall off 6b & higher regularly - I'm getting better at this! although wimping out a couple of times, not feeling as confident (watching the fingers...) but actually achieving the starts.
Be fit for Kalymnos (was an MTG)- I'm tapering down, that's my excuse! Less than 2 weeks to go...!
MTG:
Learn to trad lead - Well, I've made a start.
Weight loss: Nothing to report this week. BUT I created a Lean Body Mass Calculator at http://doctoruseful.co.uk/fatlog/ for checking that muscle mass isn't dwindling with all this weight loss. Feel free to give it a go!
LTG:
I need to put something down...

useful on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: Thanks for the summary, Jimmy!

I started climbing the A55 sport routes last July when I came up this way for work.
There's some brilliant sport crags up here, and LLanddulas is a fantastic sport limestone venue. Memories of climbing halfway up, then looking over my shoulder: "wow, you can see the sea from up here!" Looking forward to getting out there again.

It's still not trad leading though. ;)
useful on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:
Nice vid, Luke. That route looks interesting (even if slightly above my grade for the moment!).
mrchewy - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to DoctorU: It's funny, my first day climbing was multipitch trad at Tremadog - I only got round to doing a sports route last year.

What trad goals have you got for this year?
maria85 - on 25 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: Cheers Jimmy, hope you're feeling better now? How do I fit it in? It helps a lot that there is a shower at work, meaning bike commuting and lunchtime runs are a little nicer! My job also never runs past 9-5; no overtime = more play time :-) And no other real commitments, no kids or anything and an understanding(/participating) boyfriend. And I don't own a TV!

Nomics/grubes - awesome trip, well done! There's some serious psyche on here this week, it's great. May have to try and fit in a bolt clipping trip at some point this year.

I had a mixed week, achieved my training goals but didn't do much cardio. The leftovers of the cold I had last week had me feeling rubbish everytime I tried to breathe hard and I used the crap weather as an excuse too. Must do more this week, but I'm not overly worried about having a bit of a week off cardio.

Last week's goals:
- Fingerboard session 1: try my old session properly and tweak appropriately to get a challenging but do-able session sorted. -Tick
- FB 2: repeat this session! -Tick
- FB 3: experiment with stamina training using a foothold and moving continuously between big holds. -Tick
- Core - 2 x 20min sessions. -Tick
- Commit to a wall session at the weekend/early next week and take some falls. -Going tomorrow.
- Work out which (running) races I'm entering this year and put entries in. Aiming for at least 1 half mara, 1 marathon distance (probably trail not road) and 1 weekend mountain marathon, plus a mini MM. -Races decided, with the exception of the half mara - unsure to go road or trail with that one? Entries will have to wait til pay-day unfortunately.

M: Lunchtime run. 2.5km, horrendous. Couldn't breathe.
Evening Bingley Wall. Several blues and greens (V2-4ish), most repeats, then beasted myself on laps of a V0/1 - up one, down the other, repeat. 4 full laps, rest, 4 more, rest, 3 1/2 (fell off), rest, 3. Tired.
T: 50 min mtb.
W: Long fingerboard session. Managed my old routine from years ago with some use of elastic (inner tube) to take just enough weight off. Felt good. Will continue doing that for a while until I get a bit stronger and can tweak it a bit. Put an aider under the board and experimented with staying on for as long as possible moving both hands and feet, resting on jugs every few 'moves'. Awesome. 2 x 15 min sessions with a couple of 1 min rests mid session. So tired! Laptop infront of fb with replays of Grand Designs (oh dear...) cured the boredom part. 20 mins core also.
T: Bike commute.
F: Nothing. Feeling very lazy.
S: Fingerboard session - same routine as wed (short bit only, not the stamina stuff). 20 mins core.
S: Skiing plans flawed by wind stealing snow. Took my kite out instead on a snowy field. Had forgotten how much fun it is. Took an absolute beating in gusty winds, many face plants, shoulders/back/arms are killing me today!

Really happy I've found some fingerboard psyche again.
This week's goals:
2 x fingerboard
1 x fingerboard stamina sesh
2 x core
1 x roped wall with falls; 1 x bouldering wall with circuits
3 x bike commute; 3 x runs... do not let weather get to me.
1 x work out what the hell to wear to a wedding, in a marquee, next weekend, in the snow. Help?!?

pork pie girl - on 26 Mar 2013
In reply to biscuit: we've both been trying to make a decision since saturday... she said she's happy to stay or happy to go. we go through this dilemma every easter .. usually based on just the weather but now it's about the pelvis/back issue.. my cold will be gone in a couple of days

my back's only marginally better this morning.. i don't think we'll know what to do for the best until thursday.. seeing chiropractor again tomorrow... see if my IS joint has has stayed loosened up... problem is the muscles on the opposite side of my lower back..which have been compensating for the locked SI joint .. they're inflamed and really tight and not responsing to stretching. foam rolling, rest, exercise or anything... only started icing it last night

i think if i'm not considerably better by thursday it will probably have to be malham.. i'll be knackered in terms of getting any treatment if i go over to france and two weeks in the van bent over alot will be a bit of a mare

ali.. agree staying in the uk doesn't feel like a proper holiday..
mattrm - on 26 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

PPG - Hope you're feeling better. I'm having back/shoulder issues at the moment as well. I'm sure you'll come back ok from them. It is hard when you're in pain tho, thinking, 'is this me for ever?', just don't wallow.

With your holiday, worst case thing is you could spend a week in the sun? Surely that'd be good.
Ally Smith on 26 Mar 2013
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to Sankey)
>
> They say (and I base this on what they say rather than personal experience, but they are folk who know what's what) that Raco de Missa (and perhaps other) sectors at Montsant are mindless stamina pocket pulling on long pitches, and its like 20 minutes drive from Siurana.
>
> Just a thought. Got some 7as that look like they're on good walls too.

Yep - i can confirm that Raco de Missa is the place to go for stamina pocket pulling. the 4 7a's on the wall at right angles to the main steepness would be a good place to start
Sankey - on 26 Mar 2013
In reply to ally smith+AM:

Cheers, thanks for the beta. Will have a motor, so will be able to check it out.
pork pie girl - on 26 Mar 2013
In reply to mattrm: i've only not climbed for four days!!!! but climbing has recently made it worst... i think that's a coincidence

lesson: go get joints tw*tted back in line before muscles get really tight and inflamed...

thought i'd got my head around that years ago but work over the laat few months hasn't allowed time to go to essential appointments.

my dad was disabled with back problems for 20 years before he popped his little clogs(completely different set of problems to mine) truth be told i'm a bit paranoid about developing the same problems... hence the 'so.. is this me forever now' when at that stage i'd only missed one arranged
climbing day out and had been on the settee for half a day!!!

yeah, a week or two in brighter weather is a bonus... but neither of us will be happy with just a restful holiday... we will have the bikes to play out on whether we go to france or stay in the uk

what's wrong with your back and shoulder?
kylieo on 26 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Thanks JimmyKay, hope you're feeling much better now. I shall try not to get bored of the 7a+ but I struggle to stay motivated by indoor routes for very long.

I nearly didn't bother to post, last week was very rubbish.

Monday - a very short conditioning session.
Tuesday - routes. Failed the 6c, I really thought I had a chance but it was not to be, I under-estimated how hard it was. Tried a 7a but came off a few times, not sure if it's for me, it's a bridgey corner route which I love but my hip hurt for a few days after. Had another go on the 7a+, I guess I made a little progress, it's hard to tell.
Wednesday - conditioning and 20 pull-ups in 5 mins. Fingerboard session, I'm still struggling to find what works for me consequently every session is different.
Thursday - nothing, partner sick and hip still sore so no climbing.
Friday - nothing.
Saturday - fingerboard session, I should really have gone bouldering but would have been on my own and I just don't enjoy it very much then.
Sunday - nothing, again I should have gone bouldering!

So only one climbing session which is rubbish. Though someone had to make up for all the crushing that went on elsewhere!

This week's goal is to climb more than once. I need to try the 6c again and also work the 7a+ some more. And improve on 20 pull-ups in 5 mins, I like a nice quantifiable goal to keep me happy!
kylieo on 26 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:
Sorry to hear about your injury. Especially rubbish if you don't really know what caused it. South of France is a long way to go if it's going to be uncomfortable to travel and annoying not to be able to do as much as you hope, though the lure of slightly nicer weather might tempt me there anyway. Still probably best to save money and go later when you're fit if you have the option.
leon on 26 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:
STG: Stick to the training plan.
MTG:
LTG(2013): Redpoint sport 7b, 1 e3, 1 hard e2.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 0(94)
Fat %: 11
Focus: Strength(3/3)
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. Repertoire of moves. FoF.

Mon: Nothing.
Tue: Arc(30 mins).Repeaters.
Wed: Nothing.
Thu: Arc(30 mins).Repeaters.
Fri: Arc(30 mins).Repeaters. Core. Shoulders & Arms(Weights).
Sat: Nothing.
Sun: Push-ups(101), Pull-ups(52), Back(weights).

Thanks Jimmy. Hope you are feeling better. I've been ill most of this week to so Arc & Repeaters the most I could manage.

Next week is going to be another limited week as I am likely to be on a family holiday over the weekend.

Plan for next week:
Mon: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2).
Tue: Wall session or weights & core.
Wed: Rest or weights & core.
THu: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2).
Fri: Push-ups(), Pull-ups(), Back(weights).
Sat: Lakes.
Sun: Lakes.
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mattrm - on 26 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

>
> what's wrong with your back and shoulder?

Basically I tweaked one of the muscles/tendons which is attached to the bottom of the shoulder. It was slightly painful when I did it (doing DIY) but when I woke up the following day it hurt like heck. It was even worse when I had to do a load of driving the following day. All the twisting to check my blind spot really stuffed it. So I've been resting it ever since. Doesn't help that I'm stuck behind a desk all day long.

JimmyKay - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

I feel absolutely awful still, but it would be a shame to waste the dry spell. Any fancy Portland over the weekend?
mrchewy - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: Thought you'd have been better by now chap! We're all off to north Wales.
pork pie girl - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: sounds like that food poisoning has really knocked you for six... take it easy for a few more days whatever you end up doing.

think they'll be a few folk at malham over the bank holiday weekend.. i'll be there feeling sorry for myself for about 10 minutes because of recent injury... then too busy crapping myself falling to remember injury!!

mrchewy - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: Did what you suggested last night - got on a top rope on a couple of vertical 6b+ routes. Really happy actually, as I fair breezed to half height and then just powered out. Not pumped but powered.

Carol climbs about the same as me and got stopped on both at the same place but I noticed she's much neater. I hadn't realised but I'm obviously more dynamic than I thought I was/used to be. I guess I weigh 5 stone more than her tho.

Her daughter came over to watch whilst she was resting and boy did that make me try harder! She just came third in the seniors at ROCfest the other week and she's only just 16 - male pride haha.
pork pie girl - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to mrchewy sounds good :o)

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