UKC

For anyone thinking of heading up I was in there today and it's in stonkin nick and very wintry looking on all aspects.

In reply to Rank_Bajin:

Which way did you go in? Thinking the "quick way" might be a tad buried?

In reply to Rank_Bajin:

Was thinking of heading to the Cobbler to look at ramshead gully or maclays crack, have been only been once in summer ages ago so not really familiar with the area. What are the approach slopes like and are there any cornices to deal with at the top?

Appreciate any advice!

In reply to Jamie B:

Jamie

I went in via Sucouth and the path is clear of snow with a wee bit of ice but generally very good. I would imagine the route in via the rest would be hard work inthe conditions.

Can't really comment on the cornices as we were training on smaller crags just above the Narnain Boulders.

In reply to Rank_Bajin:

What level is the snow cover down to? Decent at the shelter stone or pockets of powder and heather showing through?

In reply to CMcBain:
Was in there on Sat, approach clear and wind had scoured most of the snow off the top so no cornices, if it hadn't been so windy it would have been peachy

In reply to CMcBain:

Approach to north peak from Narnain boulders is fine. A couple of small shallow patches of windslab which is avoidable and the path is pretty trampled down and icey. I had to get an axe out to get up the final bit before it takes you out onto the flat bit before the wee gully bit which takes you up to north peak.

Maclays Crack looked really good but the wind was brutal. I am very keen to get back up again in the next few days.

http://imageshack.us/a/img35/127/p1060885c.jpg

Ramshead Gully looked really good as well but I bottled out of it being a tech 5 but I was really really tempted and really tempted to go back up again.

http://imageshack.us/a/img811/1189/p1060886a.jpg


Some other pics

http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/4711/p1060882z.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img832/5020/p1060889e.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img845/1797/p1060892e.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img839/8956/p1060893v.jpg

In reply to Milesy: Amazing nick for any of the mixed routes by the looks of it. I remember just enjoying Ramshead, and it was towards the top of my grade at the time, so it must have been decently protected otherwise it would stick in my mind more.

Looking at this pic http://imageshack.us/a/img832/5020/p1060889e.jpg you should do Nimlin's! Perfect conditions for it.

In reply to Milesy:

These conditions are exceptional, some of the best I've ever seen!

Stuart

In reply to Rank_Bajin:

Still very good conditions today, but the buttresses have lost a bit of rime since those photos were taken, especially near the bottom of Central and North peak. We had designs on Recess Route but felt it was too rocky low down, although others may have persevered. Plenty to do though - get involved!

In reply to Jamie B:

Nice one Jamie. I read somewhere that they recommend the cobbler in cloudy conditions I am sure?

In reply to Milesy:

Not a local expert (first winter climb there today) but that does figure.

In reply to Milesy:
Hi Milesy,
Yep, because of the orientation of many of the routes they get a lot of direct sunshine from early in the day and so the routes can be stripped in a couple of hours....hence cloudy cold conditions are the DB's...
ANdy

In reply to Andrew Mallinson:

Any hints on how the gullys were looking on North Buttress - thinking of heading there tomorrow morning.

Central Gully is pretty much empty. Turf, a little neve and a rock step further up. The entrance to the gully looked like a tech 4 move over a big rock.

In reply to Milesy:

Thanks - we were thinking of having a look at Chockstone and Great Gully tomorrow. Maybe have a look at the North Peak buttress grade IIIs if the gullies are a bit thin.

In reply to Neil Pratt:

Sorry great gully I meant. Apologies.

In reply to Neil Pratt: Hi Neil. Chockstone will be harder than its grade in current nick. Great will be harder still, especially at the bottom.

In reply to Craig Mc:

Chockstone ended up being pretty straightforward, Great gully was a bit of a wriggle to get past the big chockstone at the bottom and onto the gully proper.

Turf is still well frozen, snow is a bit soft and slabby in places; doesn't make for inspiring axe belays, but it's the thought that counts

In reply to Neil Pratt:

Is South Peak still nice and white?

In reply to Jamie B:

Very - there seemed to be a little avalanche debris to the right of the fang, but it looked well plastered right along south and central peaks at he moment. It's a fantastic sight in full "winter plumage"

I'm going to be down this way on Monday and Wednesday of next week and looking for someone to climb with? Am comfortable leading on grade III/IV, plus have ropes and rack.

In reply to Jamie B:

Couple of photos of general Cobbler conditions - there's a bit less coverage on the rocks where they've been exposed to the sun, but still looking good.

http://goo.gl/1aBZe
http://goo.gl/fYmzt

In reply to Neil Pratt:


People should be doing North Wall Groove, North Wall Traverse, Gibber, Nimlin's, Grassy Traverse, Deadman's, Viva Glasvegas etc. They all look perfect!

In reply to TobyA:

It was quiet as the grave when we were there yesterday - as far as I could see, there wasn't another soul about. Mind you, it was nice contrast to being out in the Norther Corries a couple of weeks ago, where it was starting to look like Sauchiehall St by mid-morning.

I am hoping to get up the cobbler on sat again if I can find someone to climb and it is refreshing to be away from the crowds indeed.

Has anyone done Cave Route before?

In reply to Milesy:

I did it a few years ago. Nice wee route and some interesting moves at the top.

In reply to TobyA:


North Wall Traverse was pretty good today, although we couldn't figure what was the correct exit at the top of the last pitch - they all felt/looked quite 'ard! Eventually pressing time prompted an ab...

In reply to Jamie B: As I remember you climb steep but not difficult ground on North Face itself, but very close to the arete. Same finish for Nimlin's as well but obviously that's coming up the arete to that point; and I think Gibber follows the same line there as well.

In reply to Jamie B:

Hi Jamie

I did this at the start of the season and felt the finish was as hard as the crux. I'm not sure if I went too far right but everything else looked harder.

Fantastic route. How did you find the crux? I felt it stiff for the grade.

In reply to Rank_Bajin:

Yes, the crux was a bit of a stopper. I'm not sure if the guidebook description of a high and a low method is helpful - it all boils down to getting across and is probably tech 6.

I wish I'd had more time to bring up partner and have a proper go at the top wall, but having supposedly done the crux and with the rope running loosely across ledges my resolve was waning! Both possible finishes had cleaned gear slots but not much scratching, so I'm really not sure what most people do?

In reply to Jamie B:

Aye, Tech 6 seems about right. The word on the street is it'll be IV,6 in the new guidebook.

Back on the Cobbler today soloing some easy stuff. The sun came out as I was heading down the hill around 11 and very hot so will most likely strip some of the routes on the North Peak which were looking lean lower down anyway.

South Peak still in very good nick though and Northwall Groove has had some action recently looking at the path up the top pitch.