/ Bouldering/Sport Climbing to a higher level
What do you consider to be high grades?
It's a question of the length of a piece of string really. It depends so much on how much time you have, how effectively you use that time, your current level, and so on. It's unlikely that you'll climb 9a I suppose. Most people starting in your position probably wouldn't climb 8a but that's not necessarily because its too difficult more that most people who start from any position just don't - if you want to be in the group that do then there's probably nothing more stopping you than anyone else. Age is nowhere near as big an excuse as some people like to use it as!
No question, definitely possible.
I am 43 today worst luck and started climbing about 10 yrs ago I climb regularly indoor and out but fail to get above f6c or E2 in bouldering and trad I keep trying but it's time that I have less of than anything else. I don't give up but I have just pulled another tendon in my hand after pushing myself too hard. Keep at it bro it will happen
I'm turning 37 soon, and managed to tick two F7b's at the end of last year (probably low gravity days ;). Hoping to consolidate that this year, and hopefully get a 7b+.
For me, one of the keys has been preventative antagonist muscle exercises. Look up rotator cuff exercises; exercises to prevent elbow tendonitis; pushups to balance out front vs back muscles. Also working on open handing a lot.
Also check out climbing grade pyramids. Basic premise is if you want to do one 7a, you'll need too have completed a minimum of 2 x 6c+, 4 x 6c, 8 x 6b+, etc as a solid base.
I found my body lacked flexibility so do a yoga class once a week, it might be cos my body just is inflexible or because I've been cycling for 20 years.
I try and listen to my body and try to make sure I mix up routes, my local wall has a lot of fiddly crimps where as another wall I occasionally get to have more open hands and jugs. Mix it up, stretching and yoga and listening to my body hopefully will help me avoid injury's.
I'd also say dont chase grades too much, from what I've said it might seem I am but really I just use them as a measure and dont worry too much about it. I enjoy climbing, simples.
I climb with plenty of people in their 30's and 40's who are climbing hard stuff so age is definitely no excuse. I actually find the prospect of still being able to push my grades as I get older really inspiring. True, many of them have been climbing for some time but many of them only started pushing themselves in the last few years.
Developing strength in your tendons/ligaments definitely takes time, years so pay attention to little niggles and steer well clear of the crimp grip (with thumb) as most of my injuries in the first few years were caused by crimping.
In terms of numbers, just pick a goal and go for it. When I first started climbing routes a few years back, I threw a number out there and asked my climbing buddies (at the time) if they ever thought they'd climb something like f7c - they all laughed in my face. We were climbing f6a at the time and they made some comment about it not being possible. Nearly 3 years on and I've climbed a few f7c+ routes now... Anything's possible but it helps to climb with like minded people who also want to improve.
My weekly approach is generally indoor ropes on Mon evening, indoor bouldering on Wed evening, and then climbing outside Sat and occasionally Sun morning (mostly sport, as I live near a lot of sport climbing). For the indoor ropes, I'll switch 4-6 week cycles of power endurance (3x3s), endurance (4x4s), and strength (just hard routes). Writing it down makes it seem quite rigidly structured, but it's enjoyable as I climb with my girlfriend and we're around the same level. I'll also back it off if it feels like I'm at risk of overtraining, or if work/life gets in the way too much in a certain week.
Don't worry about the 40 thing - if you do, it might cause you to try too hard too quickly and then injury is around the corner.
Re: climber focused yoga - sometimes these focus on really powerful moves since they think that's what climbers want. I know climbers who prefer to work on the power aspect by climbing, and prefer more gentle flexible yoga to maintain their flexibility.
Finally shout out to read Dave MacLeod's blog & coaching blog. Lots of good training information and inspiration to be had.
I've just turned 36 and only now really venturing to outside climbing / bouldering after 1 1/2 years indoors. There has been improvement, moreso with my technique than anything else. There have been grade improvements, I do wish I'd got into it sooner but not a lot I can do about that, just enjoy it as much as I can now :-)
Do some indoor training on sport at about 6a to 6c but tend to do three up three down for training I have never sport climbed outside, not that I wouldn't I just haven't.
Elsewhere on the site
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more
Perhaps the perfect Xmas gift for the climber in your life... Wild Country's Crack School has two of the worlds best crack... Read more
Rock shoes stink – let’s face it. Boot Bananas are the perfect way to fight the funk and keep them fresh. They help... Read more
Tonight's Friday Night Video features the Norwegian town of Rjukan, once believed to be the home of the world's tallest... Read more
With four photos in this week's top ten, and a UKC gallery of stunning images we thought it was time we had a chat with... Read more