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Topic - Strength/power endurance and stamina?

mrchewy - on 26 Mar 2013
Back putting the effort in after tearing my medial ligament and a couple of finger pulleys. I'm having to wear a knee brace now, so I've not been pushing grades or anything daft until this last week. Mostly been bouldering V0 to keep ticking along and last Wednesday did 5 x V1, all in no more than two goes and a roof V2 first go. On Sunday I got on a top rope and had a good stab at 6b, better than ever to be honest but I'm utterly mullered by 9/10m high. Fine to there, no rests but I'm climbing at my limit and then it's all over. (I could work a V3 eventually last year.)

So today, I thought I'd just test my stamina, if that's the right climbing word. I did -

4 x 15 V0 problems. 12min for first set, rest 12, 11min rest 11min, 13min rest 13min and then 10min for the final set of 15. So 82 minutes to do 60 problems. Allowing for my feet to climb at least 2m up and 2m back down that makes 60m of continuous climbing per set.

I was really happy with this, as the idea is to get solid at HVS this year and tick E1 too BUT... I'm not too sure what this tells me and where do I go from here? Am I right in thinking this is strength training? And if I want to get to the top of the routes wall on a 6b (12/14m), then I need to be training power, as I'm obviously okay at strength? And if so, how do I now go about that?

Sorry if the answers staring me in the face but I've read loads and am still a little confused by the whole power/strength thing, let alone aerobic/anaerobic thing. I'm assuming I was training aerobicly today.

Cheers in advance, any help will be massively appreciated.

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