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climbing holds onto rock

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 tracyclimber 26 Mar 2013
Can I drill into rock (granite) and put climbing wall holds onto it? I've got a spare bit of rock at home which is too easy to use as a training wall and wondered if I could put holds onto it?
 pork pie girl 26 Mar 2013
In reply to tracyclimber: from the look of your profile pics you need to get a crash mat at the bottom of your spare bit of rock too!!
OP tracyclimber 26 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:
I'd forgotten about those photos!
 Elrond 26 Mar 2013
In reply to tracyclimber:

A spare bit of rock..sounds intriguing..

You can get expansion bolts though which you can drill into the rock and then place bolts into just like normal. They're the ones you get in kids traversing walls although I reckon they'd probably still work fine.

Like the ones down the page a bit here:

http://www.customholds.com/climbing_hardware.htm
OP tracyclimber 26 Mar 2013
In reply to tracyclimber:
Thanks for your replies. I live in Cornwall in an old mining area - that's how I've got a spare mini cliff to use!
 Jubjab 28 Mar 2013
In reply to tracyclimber: not sure how the wall becomes harder by adding holds to it?
 pork pie girl 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Jubjab:maybe by putting up smaller holds, slopers, pinches etc and avoid using the existing natural holds that i assume are larger/easier to use?

tracyclimber... pop a couple of volumes on it too

i think a bouldering wall in your back garden sounds great.. but would still be frustrating when it rains though.

we;re in the process of acquiring materials and holds for the wall we;re going to build in our garage... really excited about it.
 Steve nevers 28 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:
> (In reply to Jubjab)
>
> we;re in the process of acquiring materials and holds for the wall we;re going to build in our garage... really excited about it.


I've been considering building a free standing wall i one of my large rooms upstairs. Been considering just using some of the Plywood off cuts i've got lying about as holds, going to use a router to take off the sharp edges and use some as small slopers, footchips and pinches. Will save me some money on brightly coloured plastic.
 pork pie girl 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Steve nevers: yeah we thought we'd make some wooden holds for slopers and pinches to save money... we've been give quite a few holds already, need to get the boards up .. waiting for partner's dad to come and help us.. when you planning on gettinmg yours sorted? out timescales are for the autumn.. so loads of time yet
 Steve nevers 28 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

When i can acquire enough decent bits of plywood from dead speakers (who'd have thought being a bit of an ex raver would be useful? haha) to save me having to buy all the boards brand new!

Other factors are pondering the design, mine has to be free standing, and also i need to decide if i'm going to incorporate both sides and a little bit of a roof. And then deciding the angles!
 pork pie girl 28 Mar 2013
In reply to Steve nevers: we have a relatively large area for ours and i think it will be easy to over complicate things and never get it built... think i'll be happy with two decent sized overhanging panels for now.. i think a small roof at some point will be essential .. usimg both sides of your free standing one makes sense .. seems to be loads of desin ideas online

wooden holds will be better on your skin too
 Steve nevers 28 Mar 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

I got an idea for mine, its going to be built out of a wall with a fireplace, so i'm thinking central main board 30-32 degrees, and then making the recesses either side 45 degrees.
Then make one side a small slab and the other side something horrid like 35 degrees for a metre then 50 degrees up to where it meets the main board and the roof. Will leave the the first metre or so from the base of that 45 just following the wall, so i get a kind of little sit start 'cave' on that side.

So some fiddly angle cutting at least!
 jkarran 28 Mar 2013
In reply to tracyclimber:

You can, either with expanding or resin inserts, there are loads available. You'll also have to mount the holds against a rubber backing or they'll crack on the uneven rock. That or grind the rock flat.

Personally I'd build a board in the garage or spare room if you want to train.
jk
 Alex Slipchuk 29 Mar 2013
In reply to tracyclimber: there are short studs, which once the internal steel ball has been punched, allow the use of a small bolt to easily replace holds. Better for your needs than standard expansion bolts which rely on a deeper hold and are more permanent. Perfect for what you need.
 Alex Slipchuk 29 Mar 2013
In reply to tracyclimber: ps I could sell you some, although posgage may be steep
In reply to tracyclimber: if you want to train, then plywood indoors is the future. However, back in the early 80s we had a couple of houses where we araldited bits of rock we picked up while we were out in the peak onto brick outside walls. You don't need big pieces, and can usually find (especially limestone) useful crimps, slopers and footholds lying around the base of the crag. Obviously not a changeable wall, but with a bit of thought its a good facility to train on. Wait for the rock to dry and then give it a good wire brush before using a twin pack adhesive.
 biscuit 29 Mar 2013
In reply to tracyclimber:

What about chipping/altering it rather than drilling holds onto it ?

Not as if it's a crag for others to use so you can do what you like.

For slopers etc you may need to buy holds but for smaller holds drilling/chipping should do.

Quick, easy and cheap.

Just a thought.

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