UKC

Can you recomend me a first font 7b boulder problem in the peak please? I'm up for a week from Friday and keen to have some projects!

In reply to tombeasley: MP3 at Birchen Edge was my first (and only so far!), I found it quite easy, when i was finally strong enough, and im a 5'9" shortarse. If you're about 5'11" or over you should breeze it.
Yogurt hypnotist at Rowter is easy until the final 6b mantle at the top (go figure)which is where I've fallen off a few times.

In reply to saalty: Great thanks!

In reply to tombeasley: No worries give me a shout if you fancy sessioning something as I'm back on it after months off with torn chest muscles, and i need to get back out!

In reply to saalty: cool sounds good, I'm going to be based in Hathersage, but only climbing mornings but hope to do most days! I send you a PM with my telephone number.

In reply to tombeasley: that said not sure how to send a message my email is tom@plugga.co.uk cheers

In reply to tombeasley:

MP3 isn't 7b!

T-Crack is hard, but probably one of the best in the peak if not the UK in my opinion.

Captain Hook is grit roof climbing at it's best at 7b and not a scary high one.

Mark's Roof is great if you have strong triceps. (I also like Bus Stop Mantel but reckon it's a bit mean!)

In reply to JimmyKay: Captain Hook look awsome! Def going to give it a try along with the ones described above

In reply to tombeasley:
i did zippy's traverse as my first 7b.

In reply to tombeasley:

Suavito at gardoms south is amazing if you don't mind slightly committing highballs and have a spotter

In reply to tombeasley:
Suavito is not a good first 7b imho. I know several regular 7b and 7c boulderers who have not managed it (including myself)

Is Marks roof 7b or 7a? If it is still 7b then that could be a good one. Definitely worth sorting out the last few moves as they can be tricky after climbing through the roof.


T-crack is good and you could also have a go at Jerry's traverse.

In reply to tombeasley:

I would suggest that T-Crack is not a good first 7b, it's hard and largely spoilt by having eliminate rules.

Captain Hook & Zippy's traverse have good moves but I've never been a fan of problems where the crux is avoiding dabbing the ground.

What is your preferred style of climbing?

If it's roofs / burly stuff then Mark's Roof is a good shout as you can work all the moves independently (but it's a hard 7b to have as your first). Another great roof is Made in Sheffield. It gets 7a+ in the guide but consensus seems to be putting it at more like 7b.

If you prefer technical stuff then Sean's arete at Curbar is brilliant.

Blood Falls is down to 7a+ in the latest guide as the pocket keeps getting bigger due to the soft rock.

If you have a good supply of pads and spotters and more than a T-Rex armspan then Boyager at Burb North is very soft for 7b.

A few other suggestions would be Old King Cascade (7b+ in the guide but more like 7b).

Gardoms is a good hunting ground for 7bs, with Mark's Roof, Soft on the G, Kidneystone, Perfect Day Direct, Pogle's Wood Sitter and Suavito all being class problems. Work your way along the edge till you find one that suits you and then stick with it. Or be a hero and do them all

In reply to 205Chris: thanks Chris, I've looked at Maris roof the finish is dead hard! Will do as you suggest and try to find one that suits my style.