/ You Gear choices

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wyeclimber - on 28 Mar 2013
Hi UKC tribe,

wonder if you can help in any way folks?

doing a bit of a study in to climbers gear buying habits...

if you would be so kind, could you answer some quick questions for me please, wont take long... unless your a gear freak and then i'll just make a coffee and settle in for the night to read the replies heehee.

OK... heres goes...ready?

1. what were the last 3 bits of climbing equipement, shoes, harnesses, cams, ropes etc (not clothes) you bought?

2. where do you buy most of your gear? you can be specific if you like with shop/website names.

3. do you shop online or prefer to go and fondle that new piece of pro in the shop before buying?

4.whats your all time fav bit of gear?

5. whats on your wish list? (3 bits of gear, 5 if your a gear freak lol).


Thanks gang!!! if your like me you love spending those hard earned greenbacks on those nice shiney bits of gear!

sorry i cant offer anything in return other than giving you a satsifying 5 minutes of talking about every climbers favourite subject, but i will give you a belay if your this way and fancy a climb!, hows that?

Cheers all - Matty

SteveoS - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to wyeclimber:

1. Shoes (5.10 VCRs), Some DMM 120 slings to extend draws, 1.75 4CU cam and a snapgate to go with it.
2. Online mostly, Rock n Run,V12's cosmetic seconds or whatever is cheapest.
3. Not many outdoor shops in the south west (Cotswold is limited in gear) but I go on reviews/ friends experiences. Sometimes me and my house mates take a punt and try something new.
4. Northface windstopper.
5. Some kind of ascender, new rope and a guide belay plate.

What's the study for?
Steve nevers on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to wyeclimber:

1: New brushes, shedload of chalk, and a new chalk bag belt.

2: Local shops, One of them gives a decent discount for members of the local wall,and the other one i use is a true independent.

3: Bit of both. If its something like shoes/harness I prefer to go into the shop and get a good fit, if its stuff that i already know works i'll consider a good price online. Mind you I am a bit of a luddite so i do prefer in person when possible.

4: Hard to say, I've had a few moments where certain bits of gear have been my darling, but its its more the combination of all the parts doing their job well i prefer i guess. (Vague answer i know!)

5: Couple of new ropes, Abseiling kit & some 'performance' rock shoes that'll fit my mutant feet.
Nath93 - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to wyeclimber: 1.Grivel G12, BD Tracer Helmet, Clog Screwgates.
2.Wherever i can get it cheapest (student life!) (mostly online)
3.I like to go and have a look in a shop but will happily buy something if the reviews look good, relates back to getting it cheaper online.
4.So far it would have to be my BD Momentum Harness, really good performance for the price and is standing up well to the abuse.
5.Axes, Set of Cams, Half Ropes (all of which i'll get when i'm climbing grades to warrant them ha !)
wyeclimber - on 28 Mar 2013
thanks so far gang, keep them coming, any particular brands?

ive been asked to be part of a climbing equipment focus group so thought i'd ask the folks who use it! :)
The Ex-Engineer - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to wyeclimber: Here goes...

1 - Among a fairly large collection of things in the last week: DMM Dragon 1 (new), WC Heliums & DMM Shadow SG (2nd hand)

2 - In the last 12 months I've bought from: ebay, UKC, Rock+Run, Peglers, Dick's Climbing, Joe Brown, Planet Fear, Go Outdoors, Tiso, Blacks, Wild Country, Mountain Boot Company & DMM. You can then add Cotswolds, Millets, Trespass & Mountain Warehouse and couple of other stores for more general outdoor kit.

3 - I have fondled most things at some point so buy 80%+ online. However I do make a point of examining any new products whenever I get the chance.

4 - The only gear on my rack that isn't completely 'bog standard' is a Rockcentric 6 on wire which stands in brilliantly for my Wallnut 12 which is mysteriously missing. Out of purchases in the last year I'm also really liking my POD Alpine 50, my Grivel G20s and very recently a Metolius Feather (nut tool).

5 - I'm going to cheat on this one ;-)
Winter - Scarpa Rebel Ultra GTX, Petzl Nomics, BD Compactor Poles, Edelrid Flycatchers 60m (+ Micro Jul) & a DMM Terrier
Rock - BD Vapour, Beal Joker 35m, Metolius Fat Cam 8, Snap Cyclops & 14 DMM Alpha Sport
(on top of that there is at least another 600+ of other stuff plus 1000+ of new clothing I wouldn't mind...)
Unknown user - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to wyeclimber:
1. Last 3 bits of gear I brought were set 3 dmm dragon cams , the new edelrid mega jul ( which is very good by the way ) and a set of dmm coloured wire gates to go with the cam

2. Mostly direct from dmm as I get trade price through the Royal Air Force mountaineering association but some time if I like the look of a new bit In the shops will buy it there and then mostly try and buy from the back street shops to give them the business

3. If I'm planning on buying it it will properly come from an online store saying that though I also do buy quite a bit on impulse when I'm just having a look around I will always buy new shoes from a store and try them on before hand even if it means driving a while to get them

4. It has to be my red chili corona VCR they are super nice to wear and quite precise

5. Um set of half ropes , smaller set of cams and a rab down jacket not really gear but still on the wish list

Cheers Jake
ice.solo - on 28 Mar 2013
In reply to wyeclimber:

1)small pack, assault tent, cup/bowl

2)assorted shops in tokyo

3)shop. always

4)spantiks

5)alloy crampons, new approach shoes, new 80L pack
fire_munki on 29 Mar 2013
In reply to wyeclimber:
1) Mammut Nordwand boots (still in the post but ordered), Patagonia nano puff
gillett, La Sportiva boulder X

2) Where ever I can find them, shoes locally but everything else online, boots online with returns.

3) Both! If I can fondle it somewhere I do, if not I wait for the postie with baited breath!

4) Big ol hex, always happy to fit it in somewhere.

5) Dragon #6, Millet pack, boulder pad.
andic - on 29 Mar 2013
In reply to wyeclimber:

1/ Master cam 1, DMM brass IMPs 2-5, beal joker
2/ CragX (foundry), GoOutdoors, DMM
3/ Mostly shop in-store unless I already know the gear or its something very generic.
4/ a well placed hex, the bigger the better
5/ more ice screws; BD turbos, more small cams, Pair: Scarpa Charmoz or Maverick GTX (or similar)

Tom F Harding on 29 Mar 2013
> 1. what were the last 3 bits of climbing equipement, shoes, harnesses, cams, ropes etc (not clothes) you bought?

Black diamond red C3, huge bag of chalk, Five Ten Anasazi Arrowhead.

> 2. where do you buy most of your gear? you can be specific if you like with shop/website names.

On-line from the cheapest source; V12, needle sports, go-outdoors, rock+run.

> 3. do you shop online or prefer to go and fondle that new piece of pro in the shop before buying?

Buy all hardware on-line and most clothing. Buy cloths in shops when they are on special offer

> 4.whats your all time fav bit of gear?

Five Ten Anasazi

> 5. whats on your wish list? (3 bits of gear, 5 if your a gear freak lol).

100m ab-rope, BD C3 green, Moon pad (medium size), subscription to Alpanist.

OK?
puppythedog on 29 Mar 2013
In reply to wyeclimber:

>
> 1. what were the last 3 bits of climbing equipement, shoes, harnesses, cams, ropes etc (not clothes) you bought?
Pair of Black Diamond Cobra ice tools, Pair of Napal Extreme Boots, a Black Diamond Express Ice screw.
> 2. where do you buy most of your gear? you can be specific if you like with shop/website names.
In shops wherever possible, I try to support the sort of shops that have some wxpertise in them. I'm not adverse to an online bargain but will always give a shop the chance to come close to the deal price. I also buy second hand from on here quite a bit.
> 3. do you shop online or prefer to go and fondle that new piece of pro in the shop before buying?
> I prefer to shop in shops, many of the online shops are part of a located business too for xample when I bought my tools from Urban rock I was able to ring them and talk to them.
> 4.whats your all time fav bit of gear?
> I don't think I can claim a favourite bit of gear. I just absolutely love all of my rack. Perhaps my Nepal boots.
> 5. whats on your wish list? (3 bits of gear, 5 if your a gear freak lol).
> Bivvy Bag, Serious Sleeping bag, lightweight tent. (more cams and a GPS watch like a GArmin jobby at 360)
>

derryclimbs - on 29 Mar 2013

> 1. what were the last 3 bits of climbing equipement, shoes, harnesses, cams, ropes etc (not clothes) you bought?
Harness, Rigging Rope, Karabiners

> 2. where do you buy most of your gear? you can be specific if you like with shop/website names.
Online, banana fingers was my most recent and best site.
>
> 3. do you shop online or prefer to go and fondle that new piece of pro in the shop before buying?
usually shop online, for the sole reason that there arent any decent outdoor retailers close by that have decent climbing equipment.
>
> 4.whats your all time fav bit of gear?
Probably my black diamond camalots (size .75 in particular) but just got the new reverso 4 which I am particularly fond of.
>
> 5. whats on your wish list? (3 bits of gear, 5 if your a gear freak lol).
well i need a new rope, so thats not really a wish list, more of a necessity list. stuff I dont need but want are; new ice axes, ice screws, crampons!

Cheers

AlanLittle - on 29 Mar 2013
In reply to wyeclimber:
> 1. what were the last 3 bits of climbing equipement, shoes, harnesses, cams, ropes etc (not clothes) you bought?
Cams: set of Totems plus 4 & 5 Dragons for the larger end
Krabs: DMM Spectres to hang the new cams on
Shoes: Tenaya Ra

>
> 2. where do you buy most of your gear? you can be specific if you like with shop/website names.
Shoes & Harnesses: always in the shop because I want to try them on
Other stuff: mostly online bargain hunting

>
> 3. do you shop online or prefer to go and fondle that new piece of pro in the shop before buying?

See above.

>
> 4.whats your all time fav bit of gear?
>
Sportiva Miura Laces
MOAC / Rock 7 / Wallnut 8
Chouinard Stopper #3
Friend 2.5


> 5. whats on your wish list? (3 bits of gear, 5 if your a gear freak lol).
>
Micro-cams
A new pair of Miura Laces
Some new shiny wires to replace my motley collection of 80s relics
A clip stick (before the next trip to the Frankenjura!)

jayjackson - on 29 Mar 2013

> 1. Set of DMM IMPs. 5:10 blancos. Black Diamond ATC Guide.
>
> 2. Direct from suppliers.
>
> 3. Quite happy to buy without playing with it in the shop, although I've usually played with gear somewhere in action prior to purchase.
>
> 4. Big fan of my old Grivel Alp Wing, also miss the red CAMP tri-cam I used to own.
>
> 5. Set of micro-cams. Set of tri-cams. DMM revolver crabs.
Daniel Caola - on 30 Mar 2013
In reply to wyeclimber: 1. brand new pair of lowa civetta plastic boots
2. Ebay
3. I do a bit of fondling(if I can find something half price) but don't mind taking a punt online as I can always send it back or re-sell it
4. see 1. above(replacement pair) or possibly mountain hardwear exposure 2 jacket, the only jacket which has fitted me perfectly, even if too hot and heavy
5. Black diamond vipers
Lew13 - on 30 Mar 2013
In reply to wyeclimber:

1. La Sportiva Spantiks, BD Turbo Screws & spare picks for nomics
2. Needlesports, Climbers Shop & anywhere I spot a deal.
3. Depends, clothing in store & hardware don't mind.
4. Nomics, hands down.
5. Sportiva trango evos(B2), lightweight axe & lightweight crampons
KellyKettle - on 30 Mar 2013
In reply to wyeclimber:
1:- 3 pegs (2 sizes of leeper and a channel), BD Couloir Harness and Scarpa Cumbre B3's (second hand)

2:- Mostly UKC and E-bay. For safety critical or urgently requred stuff I'd go new and use either Joe Brown, V12 or Needlesports (the former two local to me, the latter just very good)... If the price is low enough for me to risk losing the money if I'm not happy with the product condition, I'll take a punt on buying most safety critical gear second hand; just not ropes.

3:- I try to get to see, hold and if possible *use* any expensive purchases before I shell out... but I'll buy wherever's cheapest, be that online or by haggling in a shop.

4:- Crux X2 Bomb Tent: well thought out, lightweight, simple and tough as old boots.

5:- I could do with a new pair of 60m ropes (ideally dual certified half & twin, the lighter the better), some new ice screws wouldn't go amiss, and I could do with a brighter head-torch (mine is a bit pathetic, but I found it when I was clearing out the boot of my car after a festival so can't really complain). Seen as I've spent all of my spare cash on tools rather than climbing gear I've deliberately avoided making any decisions or even enquiries on what specific product I'll get to fill each of those needs.
AlanLittle - on 30 Mar 2013
In reply to KellyKettle:

> 5:- I could do with a new pair of 60m ropes (ideally dual certified half & twin, the lighter the better), ... Seen as I've spent all of my spare cash on tools rather than climbing gear I've deliberately avoided making any decisions or even enquiries on what specific product I'll get to fill each of those needs.

Allow me to bugger that up for you by recommending the Apus from Edelrid. I climbed on a pair of these belonging to my mate in the Dolomites last summer and was much impressed. Superb handling, very kink- and tangle-free. Mostly used as twins, but they feel solid enough not to be too alarmingly skinny for the odd wandering pitch as halves.

(I don't think I'd buy them as a full time half rope for UK trad rock climbing though)

Tubb93 - on 30 Mar 2013
In reply to wyeclimber:

1. Dmm 9.8mm prodigy 60 metre rope, 120cm DMM sling and a Boa screwgate.
2. Joe browns or cotswold outdoor
3. Fondle first ;)
4. La sportiva muira vs :)
5. Set of DMM dragon cams, beal top gun half ropes and BD viper ice axe
LJC - on 30 Mar 2013
In reply to wyeclimber:

1. BD speed 55, Patagonia salopettes, carritools.
2. Websites, usually wherever is cheapest.
3. Prefer to have a play before buying, where possible.
4. Arcteryx harnesses (yes, plural).
5. Hard shell jacket without holes in it, msr heat exchanger, some sort of hi loft fleece, western mountaineering sleeping bag, ti jetboil, map case.
TJPOON - on 30 Mar 2013
In reply to wyeclimber:

1. 7 2nd-hand Cams, 8 biners and new rock shoes

2. UKC For Sale Forums, Gooutdoors (Price Match)

3. Fondle then find online, unless I need technical assistance with the item of clothing. Then I pay in-store as a thank you for the service the floor staff give.

4. My rope. It keeps me alive doesn't it?

5. 2 Half ropes, ME Citadel, Winter Gear for next winter
Dave Ferguson - on 30 Mar 2013
In reply to wyeclimber:

1. Rope, shoes and cams
2. All bought from ebay
3. I only fondle my mates (gear) no need to do it in a shop
4. I do like these new fangled super light quickdraws
5. I need some new wires but tend to find at least 5 a year, lets hope they are the right sizes.

As you've guessed I'ld rather spend the greenbacks on diesel and flights for trips rather than overpriced kit.
KellyKettle - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to AlanLittle:
> (In reply to KellyKettle)
>
> [...]
>
> Allow me to bugger that up for you by recommending the Apus from Edelrid.
>
> (I don't think I'd buy them as a full time half rope for UK trad rock climbing though)

Funnily enough*, those had already caught my eye... As I'm realistically going to use them mostly in winter anyway, Trad suitability is not a massive concern to me.

I'm very curious about their new Flycatcher too, but the likelyhood of it being even more suceptable to damage from wear and tear, and the need to use a micro-jul to belay (thus i'd need two as its unrealistic to expect people to own a second belay device just to climb with me) are looking like pretty big downsides.

*I try not to get set on anytging before I'm ready to buy... but its nice to look ahead of time.
wyeclimber - on 08 Apr 2013
thanks all,

very helpful

matt
alooker - on 08 Apr 2013
In reply to wyeclimber:

1. Totem basic cam, couple of ice screws, anasazi blancos

2. Hardware mostly online, shoes in store, clothing in sales

3. I like looking around gear shops when it's raining but I've mostly seen the gear I buy before on other people's racks etc so when I buy online I have a good idea of what to expect.

4. Brass offsets

5. More totem basics, guidebooks (can never have enough), hardshell trousers
leptine on 08 Apr 2013
In reply to wyeclimber:

1. 5.10 anasazi lv, DMM rope bag, Petzl Elia helmet

2. The only convenient store near me is Go Outdoors, otherwise I shop online (e.g. Banana fingers, Complete Outdoors)

3. Prefer to try on shoes, harness etc in store, but happy to buy hardware online

4. Probably my climbing shoes

5. Longer rope, replacement harness, more quickdraws
Quad on 08 Apr 2013
In reply to wyeclimber:
1. BD viper ice axes, G14 crampons and Scarpa Freney B3 boots.
2. V12, needlesports, Tiso, Go Outdoors, Nevis Sport
3. Prefer shops and don't mind paying a bit more on products I need to try out/try on/get advice on, but if I already know what I want I'll get it online.
4. BD Vipers, largely because they're the newest, shiniest and most exciting bit of kit I own.
5. New harness, Ice screws of all sizes (I have none), a guide style belay plate.
Richard Carter - on 08 Apr 2013
In reply to wyeclimber:

1. what were the last 3 bits of climbing equipement, shoes, harnesses, cams, ropes etc (not clothes) you bought?

Ice screw, shoes, couple of karabiners.

2. where do you buy most of your gear? you can be specific if you like with shop/website names.

Internet, usually V12 or somewhere like that.

3. do you shop online or prefer to go and fondle that new piece of pro in the shop before buying?

Shop online, can't be bothered with the hassle of shopping!

4.whats your all time fav bit of gear?

BD Cobra ice axes

5. whats on your wish list? (3 bits of gear, 5 if your a gear freak lol).

Nothing really, if there was anything I wanted I'd just get it :-P

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