/ Climbing coaching

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DaveH70 - on 30 Mar 2013
I'm thinking of getting some coaching at my local wall. I've recently got back into climbing after a 10 year lay off. I was only leading up to HVS back then so my aim is to improve my outdoor climbing and wondering if anyone has had any and if you found it useful?
Nordie_matt - on 30 Mar 2013
In reply to DaveH70:

Not had any coaching myself, but have heard good things about James Thacker and co, if it's trad you want to improve on then best get coached in the environment ie: the crag as whilst movement skills may be transferable, the head game most likely wont be.

Hth, Matt
BoulderyDave - on 30 Mar 2013
In reply to DaveH70: James Thacker or katherine schirrmacher. We have climbed with both and learnt a lot
DaveH70 - on 30 Mar 2013
In reply to DaveH70: Ya it's for trad but the coaching will be indoors, they have coaches visit every week so it would be one of them, I'll have to look up their names.
DaveH70 - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to DaveH70: It's the movement skills I want to improve more than anything as I think that's what I'm lacking in most and think if you're confident with your movement you'll handle the head game better!
The Ex-Engineer - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to DaveH70: If you really want to improve your outdoor climbing then get instruction/coaching outdoors.

By all means get some advice about climbing movement indoors, but quite frankly it won't transfer that well to climbing outdoors. Better and more efficient climbing technique helps in the longer-term but I know very few climbers who are ultimately held back by that aspect of their climbing on trad routes.

You don't say where in the UK you are. If you are in the SW feel free to email directly me if you want some advice.

I personally know dozens of other instructors and coaches; the following are all recommended based on a good knowledge of their experience and ability:

If you're around London, both then probably the best coach in the UK is Neil Gresham http://www.climbingmasterclass.com/ who is often based at the Westway. Adrain Berry http://positiveclimbing.com/ is also good and works with the Castle and the Arch as well as running courses in the Peak.

If you are close to Gloucestershire, it might be worth emailing Paul Smith http://www.rockandwateradventures.co.uk/ as he's as good a coach as anyone else I know.

If you a reasonable distance from North Wales, then Mark Reeves would be a superb bet http://lifeinthevertical.co.uk/blogs/climbingcoach/

In the Peak you are spoiled for choice but out of the recommendations already mentioned, I think a great option would be http://www.peakmountaintraining.co.uk/ (James Thacker, Dave Hollinger, Neil Johnson & Ruth Taylor). Also, Lucy Creamer http://www.lucycreamer.com/ and Guy Wilson http://www.pureoutdoor.co.uk/ are both great to go climbing with

Unfortunately when it comes to NE/Lakes/Scotland etc. I can't give any personal recommendations but there will be plenty of options out there.
Jon Stewart - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to DaveH70:

In my experience, coaching indoors was useful to get the most out of indoor climbing - I got some really useful advice on how to train for trad and as a result I now find indoor climbing productive and enjoyable.

However, it still doesn't translate particularly well to trad. Well, that depends on where you climb more than anything - training indoors for Lower Sharpnose for example works a treat, but is completely useless for grit.

An observation I would make is that the people I know who climb with excellent technique did not achieve that through coaching - they acheived it by climbing a lot of routes in styles that demand technique. People who only boulder on steep roofs rarely develop much technique for stuff with small holds and requiring footwork. People who have spent months in Font climbing all styles of problem (not just roofs) climb well.

The Ex-Engineer's advice is excellent. I think some trad coaching outdoors could definitely improve confidence, for example in trying hard moves above good gear, which is a major thing in trad. I personally doubt that a few hours coaching could have a great effect on the way you move on the rock though.
DaveH70 - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to DaveH70: I'm in Derby so the Peak is the best place for me. I understand things learned at the wall wont fully transfer out onto the rock but think some of the basics will and maybe learning how to use the wall better with a view to outdoor climbing would be good. I'll check out the links there and look into some out door coaching, maybe get a couple of mates together to make it cheaper :-)
AlH - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to DaveH70: John Kettle is based in the Lake District but works further afield regularly and is very knowledgeable and an excellent coach indoors and out. He has also written some articles on UKC:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4383
http://www.johnkettle.com/techniquecoaching.html
biscuit - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to AlH:

2nd vote for John K.

I went a sceptic but came back a convert.

Strong trad background as well so can relate indoor stuff to outdoors but i am sure he wil also be more than happy to get you out on rock and improve your trad.

Lots of background knowledge but combined with experience and a great teaching/coaching manner.

http://biscuitsblogspot.blogspot.com.es/2011/05/john-kettle-climbing-coach.html

Have a look and see what i thought.

I have been on coaching holidays, climbed with 'famous' climbers etc and found John to be the best at getting the essentials across in a very understandable way.

ads.ukclimbing.com
Mark Reeves - on 02 Apr 2013
In reply to The Ex-Engineer: Thanks for the recommendations, but as Dave is based in Derby and keen for the peak. I can only recommend those already meantioned.

Inparticular I would recommned Katherine Schummacher or Peak Mountain training.

I am sure you'll have a great day and learn lots of stuff that can be transfered from indoors to outdoors.


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