I'm thinking of getting some coaching at my local wall. I've recently got back into climbing after a 10 year lay off. I was only leading up to HVS back then so my aim is to improve my outdoor climbing and wondering if anyone has had any and if you found it useful?
Not had any coaching myself, but have heard good things about James Thacker and co, if it's trad you want to improve on then best get coached in the environment ie: the crag as whilst movement skills may be transferable, the head game most likely wont be.
In reply to DaveH70: It's the movement skills I want to improve more than anything as I think that's what I'm lacking in most and think if you're confident with your movement you'll handle the head game better!
In reply to DaveH70: If you really want to improve your outdoor climbing then get instruction/coaching outdoors.
By all means get some advice about climbing movement indoors, but quite frankly it won't transfer that well to climbing outdoors. Better and more efficient climbing technique helps in the longer-term but I know very few climbers who are ultimately held back by that aspect of their climbing on trad routes.
You don't say where in the UK you are. If you are in the SW feel free to email directly me if you want some advice.
I personally know dozens of other instructors and coaches; the following are all recommended based on a good knowledge of their experience and ability:
In my experience, coaching indoors was useful to get the most out of indoor climbing - I got some really useful advice on how to train for trad and as a result I now find indoor climbing productive and enjoyable.
However, it still doesn't translate particularly well to trad. Well, that depends on where you climb more than anything - training indoors for Lower Sharpnose for example works a treat, but is completely useless for grit.
An observation I would make is that the people I know who climb with excellent technique did not achieve that through coaching - they acheived it by climbing a lot of routes in styles that demand technique. People who only boulder on steep roofs rarely develop much technique for stuff with small holds and requiring footwork. People who have spent months in Font climbing all styles of problem (not just roofs) climb well.
The Ex-Engineer's advice is excellent. I think some trad coaching outdoors could definitely improve confidence, for example in trying hard moves above good gear, which is a major thing in trad. I personally doubt that a few hours coaching could have a great effect on the way you move on the rock though.
In reply to DaveH70: I'm in Derby so the Peak is the best place for me. I understand things learned at the wall wont fully transfer out onto the rock but think some of the basics will and maybe learning how to use the wall better with a view to outdoor climbing would be good. I'll check out the links there and look into some out door coaching, maybe get a couple of mates together to make it cheaper