/ multi pitch sport routes???

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Mr Boulder - on 31 Mar 2013
Right people, I am new to the North and climbing at the peak district and will travel to get to good crags. I and am looking to find some multi pitch sport routes?? I have found malham cove but I think it might be a bit out of my league at this stage but will definitely give it a go at some point. Does anyone have any recommendations of where offers good routes of this type?
highclimber - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to Mr Boulder: There's not many sport venues in the UK in general when compared to the likes of Spain etc. there's even fewer tall sport venues!
The Ex-Engineer - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to Mr Boulder: The only UK crag with multi-pitch sport routes in the grade 6s is Cheddar Gorge, however access to them all is effectively banned until the Autumn.

Even then, there is only really one route that genuinely needs to be climbed in multiple pitches which is Castles Made of Sand - http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=27835
Jon Stewart - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to Mr Boulder:

If you're looking for multi-pitch climbing, then in the Peak, you're looking in the wrong place.

If you're looking for multi-pitch sport climbing, you're definitely looking in the wrong place.

My advice is to get to know the Peak for what it's got: some of the best bouldering and outcrop climbing anywhere. Plus a load of polished, chossy limestone which has a degree of charm, and a bunch of short sport routes above 7a, which in my limited experience of them are utterly mediocre. A place to go multi-pitch climbing it is not!
Ian Parsons - on 31 Mar 2013
As ropes get thinner, lighter and thence longer there's a diminishing requirement, in this country at least, for any sport route to be multipitch. The Prow, as I recall, used to be three pitches; I suspect that nowadays it's probably most usually done as one. So this type of route tends to be the preserve of multi-tiered venues where the individual pitches are not easily individually accessed and so are not regarded as separate routes; Cheddar is an obvious example of this, and large slate quarries may well be another.
Morgan Woods - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to Mr Boulder:
> Does anyone have any recommendations of where offers good routes of this type?

Europe.
wurzelinzummerset on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to The Ex-Engineer: I think you'll find several are "summer season", which means they are only off limits July/August and Easter. This includes Goats R Us and Space Tourist, both around F6B+.
beardy mike - on 31 Mar 2013
In reply to Mr Boulder: and stone cold fever, and the other sport routes on paradise buttress...
rustaldo - on 03 Apr 2013
In reply to Mr Boulder: there's a couple of multipitch sport routes on the slate in llanberis.
sebrider - on 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Mr Boulder: If you are North of 'the North' there is a new easy one here, parts still in need of a clean. It is just the one though.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=252426


The Ivanator - on 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Mr Boulder: Multi pitch Sport in the UK is a pretty shallow pool: a few at Cheddar (be aware of restrictions); some in the Llanberis Slate mines (mostly hard) ...although linking pitches up the full height of the Australia area of the quarries can be done at a fairly amenable grade (not strictly a continuous route though).
The other esoteric one I know of is Barland Quarry on Gower where there are a couple of 2 pitch outings reaching 50m or so.
Chay - on 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Mr Boulder: Some long multi-pitch sport lines in Twll Mawr in the slate quarries by Llanberis..not sure how far you're willing to travel.

C
Chay - on 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Chay: p.s the two longest (and best) are both F7a- might be a bit hard?
dan gibson - on 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Mr Boulder: Heil Hitler 7a,6c,7a Wintours Leap
The Paladin 7a,7a Wintours Leap.

Ive not done them except the first pitch of Heil Hitler which is very good.

Dan
ian Ll-J - on 04 Apr 2013
Chay - on 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Mr Boulder: Slate is a great option; Ian's your man if you need any information.

partz - on 06 Apr 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:
> The other esoteric one I know of is Barland Quarry on Gower where there are a couple of 2 pitch outings reaching 50m or so.

I wouldnt say its esoteric as such, but not very good and equally not worth the travel from 'the north' to Gower.

You could try do that one Dave McCleod and Alan Cassidy did in peak cavern? :P

ads.ukclimbing.com
partz - on 06 Apr 2013
In reply to partz: *MacLeod sorry

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.