/ Views on Scarpa Vantage shoes?
So I'm looking to get a pair of these Scarpa Vantage, only thing is, are they actually any good to own? I don't know how regularly climbing centres will replace their hire shoes see. I also gather the Vantage is no longer made? Does anyone know what the current equivalent might be?
They'll be a fantastic entry level shoe; especially if you have wide feet. Another option could be Boreal Jokers- fantastic entry level shoe, I liked them when I had them for multi-pitch days.
Super comfy to wear and climb in !
dying you feet blue : /
They were my first pair of shoes, and I'd second the recommendations wholeheartedly if you can find a pair in end-of-line sales. Technical enough to suit you as long as they last, but really comfortable for longer wear as well.
I've still got them, and use them for longer, easier multipitches (I have a newer pair of Scarpa Vapours (and the associated orange feet) for single pitch/indoor). Like Chay, I have medium-wide feet and find Scarpa fit my feet nicely, particularly with the laces going a long way down to give plenty of adjustment.
Equally, another recommendation for the Jokers - I don't personally like them for my feet so much, but we have them as club shoes and they seem to do the job nicely!
Hope you find some.
I'll give those Jokers a look!
I wouldn't, the Joker is an awful shoe.
Had a pair for about 5 months, and the rounded toebox, crap edging and awful rubber combine to be one great big pain in the arse.
Any are ok if your after something for having fun in the low grades, (like 5b and under) and comfy, but if your looking for anything that be secure on anything tiny then the Joker is not for you. Also for about £10-15 more you can get a much better shoe.
Sending mine to get resoled, not because the original rubber needs it, just that getting some new rubber on them might make them not so shit.
Almost everyone I've known have thought they're a great shoe.
I actively avoid using the toe point on small ledges because it know it'll only be 10-30 seconds and the toe will pop, end up smearing my way up a lot of things to make up for the fact i feel i can't trust the joker to be stable on what i need it to be.
That said, its ok for low grades, indoor and circuit boards, but for anything more challenging i would change shoe.
Sports Direct were selling Vantages quite recently in Nottingham and also the big Shirebrook store. In fact at one time they had them priced up at £35 and I am kicking myself that I didn't get a pair in as they were obviously mis-priced. I last saw them around £55ish in Sports Direct.
Maybe there to big, sounds like length and width is to big. The shoe just bears the brunt of the rock, your foot/toe carries the weight
Its weird though, i can happily pull off F7a and overhanging problems in them but on routes above 6A they don't seem to like to stick, the outside edge does seem better than the toe and inside edge.
May just be a dodgy pair? Have you compared them to others
Rock shoes all fit a bit funny for me mind, my big toe always seems to find a way to stay flat while my other toes bunch, and thats in every model of shoe i can find!
GO are selling Vantages for 35 quid at the moment. I was thinking about trying a pair.
Do they stretch much after a bit of use?
Didnt really like mine tbh. I felt they had quite a stiff sole, which was fine for edging, but gave a pretty numb, disconnected feel any other time. I've only been climbing a year mind so I could be talking mince!
Really ? I would agree more with Steve nevers' earlier comment that up to around 5b the shoe isn't going to make that much difference. I am willing to concede that I may be wrong, as I have been away from climbing for nearly 20 years, but the same pair of shoes saw me through from leading HS to E2, and they were comfy, not technical. (I always wore socks with them, or they were too loose. As comfortable as normal shoes).
I would have thought that the best shoe for anything up to low extremes would be simply the most comfortable one that was a snug fit. I certainly don't remember any VS routes needing the surgically precise footwork that bog standard shoes couldn't provide.
I don't mean to appear to be having a go at you, I was just genuinely surprised at your assertion.
Scarpa Vapor V-XSG2, is a brilliant shoe for climbing/bouldering indoors and out. They are a bit pricy but well worth it in the long run. They may be a bit uncomfortable at first until you've broken them in. I think the new helix or thunder may be similar to the vantage but to be honest I don't really like them, they are like climbing in clogs.
Isn't it usually obligatory at about this stage in threads like this to point out that the first ascent of Great Slab at Froggatt was done in Woolies pumps. ;o)
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