/ BD Camelot C4 or Metolius Mastercams
I use C4's for the normal sizes and mastercams for the micros, which works really well as a combo.
The one thing to be aware of is that Mastercams can rust and so you need to be very careful about drying/treating them in wet and, in particular, salty (ie. seacliff) conditions. I wouldn't really want an entire rack of them, anything else aside.
Ok, that's helpful thanks..what size do you start with the BD's..? I've thought about mixing but if the mastercams have a tendency to rust., maybe I should wait till the new BD's come out....
C4s are excellent as are DMM Dragon Cams.
Don't buy Master Cams they last about five minutes if you take them near the sea.
I would buy C4 or Dragons from purple upwards.
I would buy Totem basic cams (aliens) in the sizes below that. They are much more flexible than any other cam and are made of a softer alloy so stick better.
They are only available from Needle Sports: http://needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Camming-Devices/Micro-Cams/Basic-Cam#.UVnp...
Can't stand metolius cams. Once you get used to the range on a C4, pulling the trigger on a mastercam is an unsatisying experience.
The C4 are safe bet for the bigger sizes (up from 0.5 or 0.75). Would also take a look on DMM Dragons for slightly different aspect on similar devices. I have some of both and they have their own strengths.
For smaller sizes I'd take a look on something else than master cams. I have a few of them and don't really like them. The biggest problem is their small expansion range. It's hard to make them fit good. Also the build doesn't feel so robust. I'd take a look on Totem Basic cams (aka Aliens) or C3's instead. Also the BD X4 might be worth the wait. However my favourite is Totem cam (the original, not the basic). They have a unique build and feel bomber while having a impressive expansion range.
> C4s are excellent as are DMM Dragon Cams.
> Don't buy Master Cams they last about five minutes if you take them near the sea.
But only if you never bother to check and clean your gear after sea cliff climbing.
I've got a couple of the small ones and they're great. Never had a problem with them after using on sea clifs. But I don't dunk then in the sea, and I do try to remember to give them a quick squirt of WD40 or something when I get home and unpack. Don't always remember though.
> I've got a couple of the small ones and they're great.
I agree - in the small sizes they are great. Prefer them to the BD micros (C3's?) etc. I've not had them seize up - I was just throwing that out as a note of caution. As for build quality and action, I really like them. Also good value for money.
> I agree - in the small sizes they are great. Prefer them to the BD micros (C3's?) etc. I've not had them seize up - I was just throwing that out as a note of caution. As for build quality and action, I really like them. Also good value for money.
Another thought, I don't like the bigger sizes as it's quite easy to pull the trigger hard enough to get the stem to bend, making placing/removing it a bit of a pain.
Their performance is excellent, they are lightweight and have a great extendable sling. Their durability is sometimes questioned, but I have had no real issues in the ten years I have used them.
I'd happily climb on Aliens (and have done so extensively) or Mastercams, but when it comes to my own money, I've gone for Zeros in sizes 3,4,5,5,6,6.
> However my favourite is Totem cam (the original, not the basic). They have a unique build and feel bomber while having a impressive expansion range.
Glad to hear that, as I just bought a set to replace my 80s-vintage forged Friends but haven't had a chance to use them yet.
Added #4 and #5 Dragons for the larger end; am holding fire on smaller to stuff until I get more feel for what I might want/need.
Yeah, i do like the DMM Dragons a lot but I have narrowed it down to the Masters and C4's as I read in a review they weren't the best for AID When I get out of this country and need to use that technique, I'd like to be able to have the best gear for that. I started climbing i made a mistake buying cams the DMM 4CU's being the cheapest. tbh, I am regretting that decision as they just aren't as good as others out there hence now I want to refresh my rack..
Mastercams I found pretty ace for aiding, but Metolius are very unaware of Seacliffs as taking them anywhere near the sea and they instantly start to rust. I think BD fair better, but a point for your consideration.
Elsewhere on the site
As a long-standing name in the UK rockshoe market, Scarpa have a loyal following and many much-loved models. As a fan... Read more
Nick Livesey discovered the mountains of Snowdonia over a decade ago and finally moved there a year and a half ago, quitting a... Read more
WINTERFEST 2014 at Outside in Hathersage 6th and 7th December 2014 Outside's ever popular Winterfest event is back... Read more
Skiing Baffin’s couloirs has been on my to do list ever since I saw Andrew McLean and Brad Barlage’s inspirational... Read more
A product review by James Turnbull. James Turnbull at Outside recently took the new Osprey Mutant 38 on a rigorous test in the... Read more