A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Joughton - How was buoux
IainRUK - Gutted if only you had known
Grubes - two rest weeks ... back on it now!
Jamming dodger - If you dont fancy yoga how about a gentle walk around where you live its low impact exercise but it will also relax you.
Eagal River - As said on FB well done on tremolo. So whats next Toadal Recall or Raindogs or is kilnsey coming into season?
Leon - Nice training week. Trad season is starting now
Mattrm - well done on the grade III
Nomics4sale - Some nice ticks at Tremadog there. Got back on the sport this weekend?
Kylieo - Well done on the 7a!!
Luke Owens - NIce to get a new project Good Luck!
NMN - Nice busy week well putting the effort in
Sankey - So thats malham for you
Ian Bell - Well back sounds like a fun trip
Jimmykay - Sounds like a good weekend in the end
Maria85 - Nice wad tick did you embarrass you self with in front of mr birkett or did you control your self
Biscuit - May not of got any of your own climbing done but at least you got in some good mileage
deacondeacon - how was north wales?
exile - well done on grade V
AJM - As per other channel I think boulder britain got a few line wrong but nice ticking
Mr Chewy - Did you enjoy Ysgo? I had a bit of a bad day there but got a couple of flashed that made up for it at the end of the day here is a video of my trip http://www.vimeo.com/58405181
Ali - Well done on the Orienteering goal
Kevster - well done V4 onsights at kebs is not to be sniffed at. Its just a bit sad how broken that place looks
Twigger - Tree felling sounds like hard work must be some form of good exercise.
Si dH - Looks like a good kick start to the trad season
Stevemarkperry - Welcome back. Nice set of goals
Porkpiegirl - Well done on space race
DoctorU - have fun in Kaly
So you got me on stats again .. sorry but post away.
In reply to grubes:
Cheers Grubes - good week last week, another this week
STG (spring): Onsight at least 2-3 new E2s on grit then try to get maybe 2 grit E3s done. Also do an E3 in Wales while away over Easter (possibly on slate). MTG (summer): Onsight at least 3 E3s & maybe an E4 on peak limestone and at least 2 E3s further afield eg Wales or South coast. Redpoint at least 1 F7b/+ to help keep fitness levels up. LTG (autumn): Onsight another 3 E3s on grit and an E4 either on limestone or grit.
M&T: Tremadog and Ty Newydd, reported last week.
T: inspired by ukb to take a past minute afternoon off and go snow-balling at Stanage. Did Breadline, Big Air (flash), Archangel o/s and White Wand o/s. Snow made biggest difference to ww, it was just a 6a boulder problem, but cool to do it. Also did crescent arete right hand, not done that before, altho not much snow there. Really awesome afternoon, well.chuffed with archangel and big air especially.
S: Wintours leap with Andy. Going by guidebook grades I got my biggest ever E point haul - 8 - but one of them was soft. Led Yesterdays Dreams (E2 5c), Big Brother Direct (E3 5c but more like E1/2), White Feather (E3 5c), and seconded second pitch of The Tower (E3 5c). Good day.
S: today is spend time with my wife day after all the climbing ive been doing. Rest!
Really pleased with last 2 weeks, loads done and a good trad platform for the rest of the year. Need to get out in some good conditions in the peak now, psyched for more E3s and even wondering what night be a good E4 to try at some.point.
P.S. I dont think the lines at Ysgo.are wrong in boulder britain. They matched the local guide description, there was no room for a problem between the line shown and the sds to the 5+, it was the obvious place for a problem.to go, and it shared the start with the one moving rightwards (which was also soft btw), which it couldnt if it started further left. So Im 99% sure we climbed the correct line out of the slot at the bqck to both Toys problems, its just that the grades are bollocks. Boudlering grades often are at little known venues and grimer obviously just copied the local guide without checking every single problem - understandable!
Eagle River, PPG, Grubes, Nomics, Luke Owens, Exile and Si dH have all been pushing the boat out in the last few weeks and some great results/experiences to read about.
Apologies if i've missed anyone.
Working 13 out of the last 14 days as caught up with me and i am officially ill. Was supposed to be going to try a new 7b+ today but cancelled yesterday morning as i've been feeling rough the last few days. Totally whacked out and have a throat/chest infection. Not a bad one though.
Been the usual 5-6 routes a day in the 5-6b range so not all bad.
Not sure. My wife goes to the UK on Friday so i want to get a days climbing in but not sure if i'll be up for anything intense.
A friend over here has a turbo trainer and he is going to give me a session on it later this week. It was supposed to be tomorrow but not a chance of that happening. I may ask to borrow it as well in the run up to the Tri. He's an ex vets national champion at sprint tri's and is also going to take me out for my first open water swim now the sun is finally shining here.
Going to be ( another ) easy week. I need to get back into it properly asap.
In reply to grubes: Cheers Grubes - yeh, Ysgo was cool, a proper place to head to. We nearly stopped at Tremadog on the way but glad we carried on. Re Really Cool Toys... pretty sure we had the right line. Two guides and a photo topo and both RH RCT and RCTSDT could only start in one place if they use the same start. Plus the finish is up the easy V0 line of RCT, not Justice as the pics on here and your vid would suggest. Not that it matters, we all obviously had fun on the boulder.
So - my first Font 7A? I've been sandbagged enough on VDiffs to think I deserve an easy tick BUT I logged it just so I could comment. I'm happy to call it 6A+... well happy with that.
Don't ever get into the game of comparing yourself to others. We all have different levels of psyche, free time, energy etc. Use it for inspiration though, lots of examples these last few weeks of hard work = results. I've always found the biggest hurdle is believing you can do it.
I've recently started climbing with a lad who was on-sighting in the 6's. Told him he can climb harder than he does and to give harder routes a go.Threw him on a few and he handled everything i could give him. He did his first 7c this weekend, in one session.I only met him in January. He's gone from 6c to 7c in just over 2 mths. He just never thought he could so he never did. Not everyone can do that though obviously but don't ever think that you can't.
You maybe right about the cardio though. Took dogs out for a walk on a flat path and i had to turn round and come back. Day on the sofa for me today i think.
That's a story and half that is - amazing! I assume you've told him he needs to be 8a by the end of May?
Psyche went massively downhill at the wall on Wed/Thu, probably after having such a cracking easter outside. Left the wall in a foul mood, could have jacked there and then. Don't/didn't seem to be getting anywhere. Instead, took the positive step of mailing Alex Fry, as he's seen me climb often enough and poured out my frustration in an email.
Had a great reply - basically to go back to what I was doing last Autumn, seems I've gotten a bit misdirected in my climbing indoors. Lots of good advice from well meaning mates but whilst it may have worked for them, it isn't working for me. So I'm going to sort out a training plan with him at some point soon, have a couple of one to one coaching sessions and improve.
Yesterday evening it was a question of either riding the new road bike or head to the wall - climbing won.
In reply to mrchewy: You more than anybody must know the effect good v bad days can have on your psyche. Its just imporant to remember that in the longer term it balances out and the bad days are just that- days, temporary, probably due to fatigue. And a bit of impatience perhaps? You know how to eat properly despite a loathing of salad so stick with it.
Investing in a couple of sessions from Alex to get that direction may be just what you need. And get that bike ridden!
Monday: Rest day (ok, nothing)
Tuesday: 28 miles commute, core exercises.
Wednesday and Thursday: Was ill with back and stomach pains and waking up in the night soaking(nice).
Friday: Felt a bit better, so went to work. 28 miles commute, core exercises.
Saturday: What a bloody gorgeous day! 7 mile run. Loved it.
Sunday: Going to ride to Aquatics later (22 miles) and do the swim session.
Lost another pound this week. So 4lb to target. Its literally dropping off right now despite eating quite well and staying hydrated, which is good. Getting a tri suit for my birthday so I dont want to look like an unfit blob = Motivation.
Aims for next week: Lose another pound. Do core exercises. Swim sessions, 3 rides to work. Tuesday will be a difficult day but im determined to go for an early morning swim with the tri club, then ride to a friend's and take the dogs out; generally keep occupied. I think Tuesday will be a turning point for me and i'll concentrate more on moving forward.
Have a good week everybody. :D
In reply to grubes: Thanks for the suggestion. I just dont get the same spine tingling buzz from walking as I do when im on a good run or a fast ride.
I may kill two birds with one stone and get a sports massage followed by a more gentle massage. That will relax me and hopefully sort my niggles out as well.
In reply to biscuit: Balls out? Lovely! But yeah its only 750m. Hope the water is shallow.
Bike: Just so happens that my commute is 14 miles which is the same as the ride, and my commute is undulating and generally on the alu framed disk hybrid (heavy) but the tri will be done on the carbon baby and its a flat route; should be a doddle.
Im more worried about the run. Im not a fast runner at all. More of a plodder. But i'll work on shorter distances (tempting though to go further when I feel fresh).
Transitions: Yeah... At least I wont be in a wetsuit. Thats a big plus.
Cant you just tell im oozing confidence! But ive a way to go yet (21st July).
Im not aiming to win, just be sorta middle placed and do alright. I have an aim for each section, to be shared at a later date as my training progresses.
Off to the pool later but its heavily structured so cant compare 750m there with 750m open water free for all.
last week went like this:
m- malham .. working on space race, started to lead (with rests) the first half. pm -mtb near malham
t-malham. as above but led (with a couple of rests) to end of traverse of roof and bottled out of going further
w- long mtb ride
t-malham. dogged space race twice.. working out sections higher up on lead helped alot and took the fall i had been afraid of three times before pushing through... i think i developed multiple personalities under the roof traverse... 4 or 5 of them..generally quite negative.. all yabbering on all at once..got it under control after a good chat to myself about why i am doing this in the first place .. worked out that i wasn't frightened about hurting myself and told myself to get a f*cking grip
pm- mtb ride from malham
f- red pointed space race first go. didn't think about falling, had just the right amount of adrenalin and didn't feel pumped, powered out or anything. spent a couple of hours mooching about the catwalk, belaying for sarah, top roped consenting, planned not to come back for at least a couple of days. pm mtb ride from malham... snow's melted on the top.. starting to feel like spring
s- long MTB ride... backed off on pace (worked at about 70%) and just aimed to complete the ride. pm pre tea low level walk with my mum and her dawg
s- today rest day... didn't have to go our road biking in the end but have found not playing out today a bugger
goals for next week.. identify next malham project ...7c.. and not mess about for too long on routes that aren't a good plan to push into the next grade i.e. that don't inspire me enough.. i accept whatever route at this grade will feel incredibly hard... the 7b+ came alot quicker and easier than i expected, reckon 7c will take most of the summer/year.
2013 goal-tick 7c and work out most enjoyable and productive way of building more power... possibly bouldering outside over the summer once a week? not sure yet. may end up at the wall bouldering once a week
possibly take up road cycling... so over the summer.. about 3x mtbing rides per week and 1x road bike per week, 2-3 x turbo trainer per week
In reply to biscuit: i agree with mcchewy.. don't push the cardio with a chest infection... i had that cold a couple of weeks ago that got onto my chest... i did very easy cardio.. as in working at about 60% for about 30 mins on the turbo trainer.. not even breaking a sweat. the hills, roads and your bike aren't going anywhere so take it easy
In reply to pork pie girl: Well done on nailing Space Race. Ive only been to Malham once and found it a very intimidating place. People who love it REALLY love it though dont they. Im sure I would too, if I could touch any of the routes!
It takes about 5 visits to get under your skin, once you can use the 7a's as a warm up and not as something to get you flashed pumped and ruin your day then it's game on. ALWAYS something harder to get completely shut down on once you think you're climbing well!
As I said the other day, amazing effort for space race. You went from being too scared to cruising it in about 3 visits. Amazing progress.
Tremelo is much more sustained since the block has come off.
Chiselling the Dragon is horrible.
New Dawn is a classic but very hard start if you're under 5'9 (I am 5'9 and found it nails).
Serious Young Toads on the Upper Tier could be a goer? not been on it so can't comment.
P.S. probably going to craig y longridge on tuesday for about 5pm if you're interested.
Goals: Toadal Recall at Malham, Biological Need/Dominatrix/Subculture at kilnsey.
Mon: Malham. bit colder than friday but had 3 goes on Toadal Recall before skin went. felt pretty lethargic due to excesses on Saturday night.
Thurs: Indoor bouldering. Shut down by all v7s I tried, finished off doing the silly 7b circuit upstairs at boulderUK 3 times. Not really aiding finger strength but back, shoulders and core were destroyed for 2 days afterwards so it must've done something.
Sun: Malham. Stayed on catwalk to facilitate partner's project redpoints. Raindogs had an in-situ mega-WAD all day (Steve McClure, Jordan Buys, someone else doing bat route into rainshadow) so that wasn't really an option so as my mate was trying GBH I had a look at that. Haaaard. Some amazing climbing on it, could do the crux at 2/3rds height with a bit of work, bottom crux by 2nd bolt is hard and I didn't look at the top 3rd. Miles away from having that kind of stamina but interesting to see what 8a+ feels like.
I'm away next weekend at a wedding so could try and sneak an afternoon at malham on thursday if work don't mind..... they probably will though.
Lots of outdoor climbing this week which included loads of three star routes too.
Was great to get back to Tremadoc and I really want to get back over there again.
5 E1's and a couple of E2's according to the guidebooks but a couple of the E1's get HVS on the logbooks (although they certainly felt like E1's).
The highlight of the week was probably The Rasp today, I stupidly went on it first thing and got flash-pumped. Came down and did it clean ground-up. Oh well can't win them all and it was better than I thought I'd do. What a route.
Also did the tour of Dinorwic (snakes and ladders) which is about as much fun as you can have with a rope on, such a good way to explore the quarries.
I also climbed The Fang and Grim wall direct and tbh I found the Fang harder.
I've been getting pretty frustrated lately with the weather and not really getting on anything tricky but have had a really fun week.
In reply to grubes: Cheers, if you get a chance to do it, it really is a must. Would be perfect for a day when you've been rained off.
I also feel like I know my way around the quarries now so should be able to find loads of great routes.Went past an E3 called the Dinorwig Unconquerable that looks amazing but it's in a place that could potentially take a good hour to find. Pretty psyched to get on some slate routes now.
In reply to grubes: Thanks grubes! Highlight of this week - getting climbing psyche back Dismal failure of week - realising that British public transport would not let me get to Malham to climb
M - reported last week - orienteering
T - rest
W - climbing at biscuit factory - managed to steal a lot of psyche from Hazel and first decent session since I got back from New Zealand (i.e. since end Jan!). Still lacking the endurance for a 'proper' sesion but managed to get some decent problems done and felt like I was trying hard so pleased.
T - BMF - good session, felt tired from day at work - hamstrings really tight after
F - train ride up north
S - nothing - but a very productive day car shopping (so all being well should be mobile again next week!!) and doing family stuff which meant Sunday was free
S - as climbing was out (damm Sunday trains...) went orienteering in the lakes instead, and it was lovely to get out in the hills - been ages since I've been to the lakes. Run ok - still feeling very unfit so need to build up the running training - and a few mistakes but a beautiful day to be out.
Also weighed myself for the first time in a while and discovered I am rather heavier than I'd like to be. Which means I am not having the chocolate and ginger mug cake I was going to have tonight and need to start reducing portion size and treats Or perhaps trying to make super health main courses so I can have the odd pudding!
Redpoint something hard indoors, and do aerocap laps at the end of each roped session to boost base fitness <so far ticked 2x7c, 7b, 7a+. Need to ensure volume is kept high around the redpointing though>
Jump on the train to pumpsville!
Rolling average weight/body fat - slipped a bit this week.
<STG> - pre Ceuse/S France trip in May
Spend bulk of March/April working on power endurance redpoints (maybe incl bouldering Ames Low at p/e 7A+) plus onsighting (Portland maybe?) to get head in gear for trip
Maybe get some pumpy E2/3 trad in if opportunity presents? - yup
<MTG> - 2013
Complete the 8a pyramid (currently completed 6/8 x 7b+, 3/4 x 7c, 1/2 x 7c+, 0/1 x 8a)
Right Hand Man
7c/+ "holiday tick" (UK route away from home and/or foreign route)
Some trad - 10x E3s, try some E4s <So far: 1xE3 onsight, 1xE3 flash>
Onsight mainly on or as prep for trips (see priority below for reasoning) - more 7a+s, try to onsight/flash 7b
Get in best shape possible for 2014 road trip - mainly this means going out as strong as possible since strength will inevitably fade over the trip
Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations (eg Dreadnought, Big Groove, Dream/Liberator, Lubyanka, short-ish alpine rock of that sort of grade)
8a before 30
7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags (currently done 7a+ at: Rodellar, Geyikbayiri)
Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something
M: covered last week T: W: T: F: S: Wintours with Si dH. Biggest E point haul to date - Yesterdays Dreams (E2) onsight, then seconded Si dH on Big Brother Direct (E2) first pitch, and led Tower Route p2 (E3) onsight. Then finished up dragging my sorry ass up White Feather (E3 flash after Simons onsight) - draining the bottom of the tank so "mad props" as they say for the beta and the encouragement (and for leaving 2 screw gates on the anchor at the top which meant I couldn't really back out!). Great day out. Bodes well for the rest of the year. S: Chilled day at Shorncliff, seconded a whole bunch of stuff just wasn't feeling the psyche, had had thoughts of trying Lundy Calling (E3/4 I seconded several years back) but on the day just wanted to kick back and enjoy a nice day out and some banter.
Pleased with Saturday. Work was manic last week plus my missus was ill so feeling too tired to train. Hence also tired today. Busy next week too but hoping to get a bit more done. Ideally a sport and trad mix next weekend, keep the fitness up for Ceuse and also keep going with the trad mileage.
In reply to Eagle River: I definitely eat a lot less than I used to. I sort of snack nowadays. I cant stomach large meals anymore. Just as well.
Think youre right about needing to be comfortable at 7a before any Malham high jinks. I just went there to photograph a friend redpointing his first 8a. Pretty inspiring stuff to watch.
Right, just come back from swimming, so thats 25 miles and an hours drills done. Sorted
I was hoping to join in with fit club in an attempt to properly get into a climbing condition and crush xD
STG : get into a regular routine, try things I think I can't do, get an outdoor 6a
MTG : confidence on real rock, stop acting like a gibbering fool when I'm off the ground, work on 6a's, second HVS
LTG : get the psych to lead more, not be the one holding people back outdoors
S/M/T : enjoying/ recovering from a hard weekend
W : some outdoor bouldering, most of the routes above my grade so made some circuits around a bunch of 3's
T : mini-core session
F : complaining about being lame and tiered
S : bouldering at cubur, worked a 5+ that turned me into a jibbering fool but glad I got up it, a few other routes 3-5+
Not been the best of weeks but determined to work harder and thinking joining this will help =)
In reply to grubes: Thanks, grubes, good to see you back!
OK, just a short report since I'm in Kaly
Mon 1/4: 10 routes, nothing harder than 6a+ (nursing finger)
Then went outside with climbing partner who is doing his MIA to do my first trad leads: 2 pitches: Diff then Severe at Lion Rock, Llanberis.
Tue 2/4: 10k on rowing machine, 40:17.5. Then remembered why I hadn't done one that hard for over a decade!
Wed 3/4: Pot Hole Quarry, led trad routes Sesto (VDiff), Silva (Vs 4a) and The Dog (HVS 5b). Dead chuffed!
Nothing until a few routes today: 3c with my 7yo daughter on the Odyssey, then Baloo (5b) & Drei Strolche (5b+) in School. Quite difficult climbing in force 8 winds (although I think it'd lightened a bit since the morning...).
I'm expecting a very inactive week with the mini-me, so don't expect anything amazing next week!
LTG climb E1 5a: needs revision?
Disrupted week due to going away for a few days.
I took my running stuff but, as usual while away, couldn't get motivated.
Hurt my ankle, some sort of minor sprain, I think, while having a kick about. Tested it this evening and seems ok.
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Wasdale - get round.
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
Push trad grade.
Lead a tough E1.
M: - am: indoor routes.
M: - pm: 6.02m road run, 147ft.
T: - on holiday.
W: - on holiday.
W: - on holiday.
T: – on holiday.
F: - on holiday.
S: - on holiday.
S: - am: indoor routes.
S: - pm: 3.03m road run, 26ft.
M - 10k run (56 mins)
T - Core workout
W - 1.5hr indoor climbing
T - Rest
F - Stretches
S - Rest (not really, loads of DIY)
S - 19k fell run, 650m ascent
Decent amount of running this week. Weight went up which was a bit of a downer. Wall session was ok, shoulder is feeling much better now. Managed to mab a 6a. Need to start trying on 6bs. Also could do with having a dedicated 'training session' as well as a club night. Club night is nice, but not normally ideal for training, esp for technique training. Next week will be fairly social as I've got a committee meeting. First few days of the week will involve finishing off the weekend's DIY. I'm building a cubby hole underneath the stairs for the coats and shoes. Nearly done, but it's going to take a few evenings to finish off.
Goals for next week:
Fell run/proper long run, climbing session, 2 core sessions, 7 ITB Stretches, Swim/Gym session
In reply to grubes: Never trust a local grubes - I asked one where RCT SDS started and he pointed to the corner crack! The idea may be to get so strong that we can crush every problem on the boulder. It won't matter then.
Third week in a row that I've managed to climb 5 times. Happy.
Goals this year.
E1 - Had hoped to get on a trad tilt yday. Fail
V4 - Tick. Really haven't tho! Hoping to get on the Pump Traverse, RAC next weekend.
7a - Future stuff this.
Mon - Penmaen Head. Limestone is tough but I reckon I might get to like it. The footwork seems cool, with plenty of sideways action. Seconded a Severe!? TR a 6a (1rest), TR a 6a+ to halfway neatly after a few goes. TR Snowdrop 6a+ to 1 clip from the top.
Tue - Rest after the beasting of easter.
Wed - TR 3+,4,4, 6a 1rest, 6b 1 rest, 6b+ halfway, 6a 1rest, 6b+ halfway
Thu - Boulder. 10xV0 no rests, worked V1.5 x 2 useless, V0, V1, tried V1 & V2 crap, tried 2xV1.5, tried V2. Utter uselessness. Never been so angry climbing.
Fri - Ended up in A&E with daughter due to her overindulging, flippin' lightweight.
Sat - Supposed to be in the Peak (didn't get back from hospital till 7.30am tho). 100 dynamic. Boulder. Made up some small hold overhanging problems, tried hard. 90 minutes there. Managed 4 pullups again.
Sun - Boulder. 120 min. Small holds for a while on problems I made and tried the starts to a V6 and a V4. Managed to pull on the two V1.5 to the high gaston rockover moves, then they shut me down (big improvement). Found a way to get started on an overhanging V2 - will go next time.
Wanna go back to Penmaen Head and get on Snowdrop 6a+. Was really shattered when we were there and that route had an easy (for me) start for the first two clips. I managed the next section clean first go. Need to work it but I'd hope that would go, loved the line.
Total change of plan for training indoor after emailing Alex Fry - going back to what I was doing when I started to get V3s last autumn. Gonna be lots of failure with focus on spending 3/4/5 sessions nailing just one move. Improvements already today, the arms and hands are mullered. Need to focus on small holds, stay away from jugs. Rockovers are an issue, I need to be braver.
Si - try doing the day I did sunday, then there is Arms Race at E4 which looks game on to me, with fresher arms! This weekend gave me my biggest E haul in a day too, well done to you too!
Me: Reasonable week, manage most of my aims this week, but didn't run as I wanted my calves to be OK for outside, probably throw that in tomorrow instead.
Really pleased with trad progress.
Tues: Indoors, finally tried something harder agian, pinks and blacks, both 7c. Both feel likely with work.
Thur: Fingerboard, easy session as tired.
Sun: Avon - Ramp.
Banshee E2 OS/5c, Rancho E3 OS/5c, New Horizons2 E2/5c OS, Them E3/6a OS (real mental battle this one), Mirage E3/6a 2nd go.
Decided arms were too gone for Arms Race. Next time.........
This week: FB once, run once, inddors once and plan on 2 days outside.
In reply to mrchewy:
I did snowdrop and hated it ..
I dropped the last move and it took me 3 vistis and two years to be bothered to get on it again.
The last bolt is the crux there is a good crimp out left but its hard to spot from below. Don't waste too much effort on it there are much better routes that are nicer on your fingers.
If you want to challenge your self at penmaen Head try flowstone shuffle. One of the best sports routs I have ever climbed ... Its hard and sustained. The crux move for me was moving past the first bolt.
STG - F7b+ and Font 7A+ (In recent light of lack of endurance this may take longer than a few months now!) MTG - F7c and Font 7B (End of 2013) LTG - F8a and Font 7B+ (Next few years)
Monday - Rest
Tuesday - Pantymwyn Bouldering - Sent Embers (6C+) 2nd go. Great problem, got really close on the extended start which is a 6A+/B traverse problem into the 6C+ giving a 14 move 7A. Kept getting pumped on the 6C+ crux (Need to work on Power Endurance).
Wednesday - Rest
Thursday - Nesscliffe Bouldering - Short evening session, girlfriend and I took the little one out with us. Had some burns on The Highwaymans Traverse (6C+), got through the crux 4 times and kept getting pumped on the 5+ (V1) bit 10 moves in... frustrating failing on a problem again in the same week due to powering out...
Friday - Rest (Son was ill)
Saturday - Rest (Son was ill)
Sunday - Llanddulas Cave - Warmed up flashing Field of Dreams (F6b+). Brilliant hard to read route and a great warm up. Belaying my mate on it first didn't really help at all for the flash...
Got on Pump Action (F7a) - dogged up it to work the moves. Great climb, the first section is a really steep flowstone featured cave with a wicked throw for a jug off a 2 finger pocket and toe hook! A bit of Spain in North Wales...! The top section is your typical crimpy sustained UK route but great moves. A really cool contrast of half's!
After working out a sequence and basically flashing all the moves I rested for a redpoint attempt. 1st redpoint I got to the last bolt and just completely powered out. Again the moves aren't hard for me in the slightest, I just don't seem to be able to sustain anything lately! My redpoint tactics are fine, I knew all the moves, used the rests and certainly don't have any mental/falling issues... Same thing as above happend on the following 2 redpoints, not good!
Is this a clear indication I should go into a full on power endurance orientated cycle? I'm thinking so... I'm going to start doing moving hangs on my fingerboard with feet on. I also have a 20mm campus rung under fingerboard so I should be able to get a good pump going using both.
In reply to grubes:
STG (Mar 2013):
More than 1 7 in spain maybe a grade push - Tick
MTG (July 2013)
Climb harder than 7a in UK and abroad.
Lead E3 try onsight
LTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Great wall at squamish
7b - Tick
Weight loss! - Tick
This Weeks Goals:
Rest maybe ... - Tick Two weeks off no walls, no laps, no driving long drives to a climbing wall.
M: Tried to go to the works AM but it was shut till twelve so sacked it off and went to pick up my cats. (two 6month old cow print cats)
T: Rest took cats to vets for shots
Roadside. Warmed up on some slab problems. next flashed chicken heads with the flake. Tried without but was eating skin so binned it. Then tried rabbit paw wall which was a little damp eventually committed nice High ball above 1 pad HVS 5b.
Tried low pebble wall but was eating skin so binned it and then flashed another 6A instead. Tried a 6A roof but binned it as I was not sure what was in and uninspired. Flashed a 3+ and 4+ slab. Did a 4+. Tried a 6B bit whacked my ankle when I fell off so binned it.
Crag. Moved to the crag tired mr smooth (6A) briefly but then the horn (6B) After many nknackering attempts decided to try angel wall (HVS 5a). Got past the crux and bottled it tried to down climb cocked it up and dropped to the mat. ARSE!! Went back to the Horn more failure but got closer.
Moved on to roof of the world flashed right hand version (6B) flashed direct. Went to try the pinch (6C) got very close but skin was gone.
S: Rest planned to go to holmfirth but fell asleep on the sofa so made a roast dinner instead.
Next week goals:
Back on it.
Wall session friday
Lazy week with a 6 hour session at caley mixed in. NOt climbing very well on grit at the moment though.
> Sun: Avon - Ramp.
> Banshee E2 OS/5c, Rancho E3 OS/5c, New Horizons2 E2/5c OS, Them E3/6a OS (real mental battle this one), Mirage E3/6a 2nd go.
> Decided arms were too gone for Arms Race. Next time.........
That's a good haul of Upper Wall routes. Them is MUCH harder than Arms Race IMHO, which is fine if you don't hang around and place 10+ runners.
More winter adventures this week. Started the week tired, so planned an easy one, and ended the week ill - such is life!
Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Winter VI 6
Goals for this Spring:
RP - 7a+ / 7b
HP - E6
Winter - VI 7
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.
M: 4.5hrs winter climbing with my wife for the first time in ten years, (due to kids and her falling in love with mountain biking,) but she was still able follow me up IV 4 with ease.
W: Rest - feeling snotty
T: Easy scramble with the kides and friends - feeling snotty
F: 2hrs MTBing the blue route at Gisburn chasing a five and eight year old and taking it in turns with the wife to nip off for short sections of the red - snotty
S: Got up early, soloed Newland Hawse, III, roped Raven Crag Gully direct finish, IV 4, (Red Screes,) again, home for 10.15am - really snotty!
S: Feeling crap - proper man flu!!!
I found myself putting my winter rack away on Sunday. Reading about PPGs success, and realising that during April last year I HPed E5 6b, I feel really motivated to get out on the rock. However I've had two weeks feeling tired and now one with a cold, have done a lot more training indoors rather than outside as I did last winter, but have also done more intense training too, so the transition onto routes will be interesting this year.
> Sun: Malham. Stayed on catwalk to facilitate partner's project redpoints. Raindogs had an in-situ mega-WAD all day (Steve McClure, Jordan Buys, someone else doing bat route into rainshadow) so that wasn't really an option so as my mate was trying GBH I had a look at that. Haaaard. Some amazing climbing on it, could do the crux at 2/3rds height with a bit of work, bottom crux by 2nd bolt is hard and I didn't look at the top 3rd. Miles away from having that kind of stamina but interesting to see what 8a+ feels like.
GBH is an excellent route. The moves by the 2nd bolt aren't crux; they're just very knacky. Watch someone else on it, or even better mulitple others to get the various beta options, most of which involve doing something which feels wrong handed! Oh, and make sure you really point your left toe down when heel hooking to make a stable heel/toe lock.
As an aside, did you see if the top was dry? i.e. Well Done Finish?
Hey, take it the illness prevented you going out for the 7a trad day? Sorry to hear you're ill, sounds like general tiredness is adding to it after 13 days on. Good idea to hold back tho and get back to it when you're better. It's not affecting your pysche too much tho, sounds like you're keen to get back to it.
STG: More E1s and look at E2. RP a 7b at Kilnsey.
MTG: Maybe E2 at Pembroke late May.
LTG: Something good in Spain in Autumn, flash 7a? RP 7b+/7c?
Mon: Malham, top roped the bottom half of Space Race, completely cold, then an hour or so later top roped it again, still cold. Pointless exercise.
Tues: 4.8 mile local run, 200m ascent.
Thurs: Gogarth, alt lead onsight The Ramp, HVS, on the Upper Tier then led the top pitch of Northwest Passage, E1, at Castell Helen.
Fri: Malham. Warmed up properly on Consenting then refamiliarised myself with Space Race. Better session.
Sat: Attermire, new sport buttress called Alcove buttress. Fierce routes. Top roped a knarly 7a and onsighted a 6b+.
Sun: 12 mile run, 1,200m ascent from ODG to Esk Hause, Scafell Pike, Esk Pike, Bowfell and back via the Band.
Gogarth was really good on Thursday. I had planned to get on an E1/E2 combo on the Upper Tier after The Ramp but it was really cold, so much so that we lost sensation in our fingers on The Ramp so was retreated to the more sheltered Castell Helen instead. Northwest Passage was excellent, I thought at the time it was an onsight but it turns out I have seconded it before.
Mixing it up with sport and trad isn't really working for sport but I need to keep going with it as I'd like to to try and RP a 7b at Kilnsey this Summer as well as getting some E1 mileage and potentially an E2 tick. Not sure how realistic it is to do both. Also I now need to go back to Attermire to RP the 7a.
Awesome day in the lakes yesterday. I got a suntan running on snow!
Anyone know anything about Kilnsey conditions? I might try and get there this week.
> New Dawn is a classic but very hard start if you're under 5'9 (I am 5'9 and found it nails).
> Serious Young Toads on the Upper Tier could be a goer? not been on it so can't comment.
Re the New Dawn start - I gather there are two methods. A powerful lunge for the undercut pocket, for which I imagine a long reach would be useful. The alternative uses an egyptian and a bad crozzly left-hand pinch. I found the egyptian unpleasantly bunched-up - so that sequence might well be a goer for shorties? Unfortunately, I'm too weak for the tall method, and too tall for the weak method!
Re Serious Young Toads - I had a few goes on Sunday. It felt a lot harder than Tremelo (pre hold loss) - more comparable to Herbie. Very sustained moves on poor crimps with poor feet - hard from the start with nothing resembling a rest. It's also seepy up to the second/third bolt. Admittedly the moves are good and it was dirty and unchalked - so I might have been missing some vital holds - but I'd be wary of recommending it as a first 7c project. Waiting until Kilnsey is back in nick might be a better idea - get on a classic truly worthy of a siege.
What an amazing weekend, been waiting so long for good weather and made the most of it!
M - Nothing
T - 12k run - same route as last week, similar time but felt easier
W - RCC - 6c o/s, 2 6c+ projects, 1 desperate 7a project, good session feeling stronger and more relaxed.
T - Temperature depression caused by walking home in snow flurries!
F - Pub
S - Headed to the sun trap of Wyndcliff Quarry, so warm, had a sunbathe after lunch and climbed topless most of the day. Did 8 routes highlight being onsighting the bolt line between SGT and bogger bob (SGT direct?). Logbook says its 6c+ but others seem to think 6b+ (myself included) lovely route though with surprisingly good holds all the way to the awesome finish on small footholds on SGT. Did it twice to get clips back. Then played around on 3 6a+'s all worthy of stars IMO until my feet were screaming - not used to climbing for that long yet!
S - 27 mile MTB along the ridgeway in 2.5 hrs, tailwind on the way out then brutal head wind for all the climbs back. Need to get on the bikes more, felt good.
Really enjoyed the sport climbing and felt confident above bolts, may have even convinced Mike "trad only" Gadd of the merits! Need to find some projects now!
On another note - Crag Lost/Found - Discussion
Met a couple at Wyndcliff, the only other pair we saw, who came up to do the 5+ left of not the arete and they left behind some cams (200 quids worth!) I noticed after we'd packed our stuff up. They left about an hour before and we looked for climber type cars in the car park to leave notes but they all seemed like walkers/tourists. We were in 2 minds to go back and leave them as is just in case they went back, or keep them and post on the forum. We did the latter. If anyone knows a couple who were there please pass the message on as this is the 3rd time this has happened to me! Anyone have any advice? I feel guilty keeping them and using them, but is there anything else I can do?
In reply to Twigger:
post on the forums but if you dont get a response split them wit your partner. Seem far game as crag swag to me. left behind they would just be litter at the bottom of a crag going rusty
In reply to grubes: Cheers grubes. I don't think I embarrassed myself too much! Will read everyone's posts later.
Last week's goals:
2 x fingerboard -only one
1 x fingerboard stamina sesh -fail
1 x roped climbing wall - take some falls. -tick
3 x bike commute, 3 x runs, plan the weekend in advance to make the most of it (no car this weekend). -tick except for one run
Put entries in for races x4 -Fail. Must commit.
Plan April's ski tour -tick, mostly
T: Bike commute with 50 mins extra of singletrack on the way home, discovered a new set of trails, great fun. Core session.
W: Lunchtime run, 4.8km, 26mins. Went to Baildon Bank after work but due to general faff only climbed a VDiff. Backed off the start of a VS as I realised I'd forgotten the only cam that would fit the first 3m, then utterly failed at getting into the Peapod - only severe - oh dear!, then faffed abseiling off a tree after the VDiff... then it got cold. Poor show, but at least after-work cragging is ON! Fingerboard session to make up for it.
T: Bike commute. Leeds wall: Leads: 4+, 6a+, 6b (yes!), 6a+, tried a 6b+, could do all the moves but couldn't make the clips, then lots of falling practise. Progressed to dropping from feet just above the bolt, couldn't quite bring myself to deliberately drop while clipping but at least I made some decent progress. Good session.
F: Bike commute. Lunchtime run, 4.8km, 26mins.
S: Chasing winter on Scafell Crag. Early start for the walk in, then attempted Steep Ghyll. Soloed the first 'pitch', seconded the 2nd, then we bailed from the crux after my partner spent quite a while fighting his way through the chimney - really unconsolidated snow, not fun. Got a good checking out by the mtn rescue heli, not sure what/who they were looking for, but not us! Did Deep Ghyll Integrale instead, soloed the first pitch then seconded the rest. T-shirt weather at 6pm on top, brilliant. Good day despite backing off.
S: Tired! Eventually got out of bed and went to Quayfoot Buttress. Seconded Irony, then led Mandrake (HVS 5a) - brilliant. Felt really steady, even the pull through the roof. Really pleased, especially as I haven't been on rock much recently. Seconded The Go Between (E2 5c) clean which I was also pretty chuffed at, the bottom 5b moves were a huge fight, the top 5c slab went better. Although I'd have been scared on this one, it's convinced me I might lead E2 this summer with a bit of work.
This week's goals:
2 x fingerboard and core
1 x fingerboard stamina
1 x wall, push myself to falling on a route (as opposed to letting go!)
3 x runs
Get those race entries in
After work Baildon VS's if the weather co-operates
Bike commutes are now a given for the rest of the summer, no being lazy as my boyfriend needs the car for work. Going to try running it too before too long.
Yes the day was cancelled. Had a look at the route though while i was working. It's in the 2nd canyon in Chorro. TBH i reckon it would have been damp. Not good for a limestone crack. It's an amazing looking line though.
2nd day of OTS ( on the sofa ) and my wife goes back to the UK on Saturday but i am hoping to get out later this week if i can.
I am back in the UK 18th to 30th April. I am down in London for the first few days but from 23rd to 29th i'll be looking to get out for whatever is on offer. Weekend of 27th and 28th in particular but also maybe the odd day or 2 here and there during the week or even evening wall sessions in the Manchester area.
Ally – Didn’t look at the top of GBH sorry, had a few goes on the 2/3rds height crux, from the bolt after that someone had left their draws in so could lower off them without having to go to the top. However, the crag is as dry as I've seen it in the last 12 months.
Moose – I’ll bow to your superior experience of Malham 7c’s. Have you had a look at Free and Easy? I really fancy having a go but it’s hard to convince a belayer that a hanging belay at the top of the groove is a nice place to be whilst I dog my way up it. Plus, if I’m on the upper tier I’ll be on Toadal Recall for the foreseeable future.
Mandrake is a brilliant route isn't it ? One of my favourites.
Have you been down Langstrath way ?
Forget the name of the buttress now but there is a brilliant HVS called the Reiver with an E2 5c next to it. If you don't like the look of that one then carry on down to Sergeant Crag Slabs. Lots of really good slabby HVS - E2 routes.
Bleak How, that's the name of the buttress before SCS.
In reply to maria85: Was going to mention the Leeds wall session as pretty inspiring for me as that's what I should be doing and then you go and add the trad and winter. Don't think we're too far apart, you sound a lot better technically than me... good psyche, thanks.
Never tried Free and Easy but Jacob recommended it as a nice climb. I don't think I'll get around to it for a while though - I feel guilty enough asking partners to trek to the upper tier at all, without adding hanging belays to the inconvenience! Think I'll stick with Herbie for now (skin permitting) - and maybe give Serious Young Toads another go - I was pretty unwell on Sunday so it might feel easier another day.
First off, I might be around end of April, drop me a line nearer the time.
Secondly, as Fit Club's resident local (roughly) I feel obliged to reply about Worcester
So it's not like Sheffield, but don't lose heart. I'll assume you can base yourself somewhere near the motorway for the sake of timings. Also Google Maps is probably way more accurate than my guestimates!!!
In terms of day trips, there are plenty of folk from Gloucester and nearby who go up to Roaches or Churnet to boulder in the winter, I figure for me maybe 2 hours or so so perhaps hour and a half to three quarters from Worcester? Si dH made it from Derby to Wintours in 2 hours or so on Saturday and along the motorway I'd expect to do it in maybe 50 minutes from Cheltenham so from Worcester motorway junctions 60-75 minutes? It doesn't have a big rep but it's actually got a good range of mid extreme single pitches, a smattering of sport routes and some big multipitch outings too. A bit longer gets you to the rest of the Wye, extra 10 minutes perhaps. The Bristol area crags will be a little further - for me Cheddar is 75 minutes and Avon about 50. And as someone has pointed out you have the Yat for trad and Huntsham and the rest of the Forest of Dean for conglomerate highball/solo/boulder action. So in terms of day trips you will be able to get out, after work too.
For weekends you aren't too badly set - from Cheltenham I can on quiet traffic (leave 7-8pm) make it from home to Malham in 3.5, Capel in under 3, Kendal in just over 3, and Pembroke in under 3. From Worcester shave a bit off all of those except Pembroke (although I go out via the M50 so you should match it). Especially if you're used to being based up north Pembroke access is a good prize to have, nice beaches for the family and one of the most concentrated areas of high quality single pitch seacliff extremes in the UK. And hell, I can do Swanage in 3 and Dartmoor in less if I really want to.
The one thing im less sure about is indoor. I know there's a wall in evesham, but I've no idea what it's like. The wall in Gloucester is ok - a decent board upstairs, a big bendcrete boulder for aerocap, some roped stuff which is ok if not world shattering. I don't know what walls are most convenient if you head north towards Birmingham and it's outskirts.
So yeah, it's not Sheffield or Chorro but there'll be stuff to do, plenty of it quite fast drying, for all seasons. It's not the end of the world. The M5 especially going south from there will let you cover distances pretty swiftly. Nothing 10 minutes away but a couple of guidebooks worth if you're prepared to drive for an hour or 90 minutes.
In reply to grubes: In the end I didn't make it to Buoux, bad weather meant we just bombed down to Chateauvert - what a crag!! It's amazing there. Had a brilliant week, loads of good, hard climbing, including two 7b+ onsights and and 'Metaphysiques des tubes' - my first 7c+! It took about six tries over two days, so about four hours of work. Mega chuffed, mostly because it was one of the best routes I've ever done, and I managed to do my first hard holiday redpoint.
Mon - Climbing in the rain at Chateauvert. Warmed up on a really long 6b then got straight on a 7a, which was pretty polished but very good, and harder than expected. I tried the right-hand variant finish at 7b+ but pumped out pretty quicky, cold hands and small pockets! Next I onsighted a really good 7a+ to the right called Le Magicien d'Oz, and finished the day doing Le Chmatex, a 7a at the far right hard end. It was pretty tough as it was but it didn't help that the top section was dripping wet!
Tue - Same crag, much better conditions. Warmed up on another big 6b, and following dad up a 6c that traversed a lot, to retrieve the draws. I tried to onsight a 7a+ called Abolition des Privileges, but it was really cruxy with just one hard move - a big blind slap - so I didn't get the O/S. The next route looked better suited though, a 35m 7b+ called Le Signe du Taureau. It started off fairly easy but sustained to a really good rest, into the first crux, which took a while to work out. I eventually settled on a sequence, involving stabbing up to an upside down two finger pocket, which led to another rest before the final crux. I went up and down about five times from that rest, each time coming down to shake out before commiting to what turned out to be a simple but hard move, slapping up to a good crimp from two slopers, then to clip the chains! First 7b+ onsight of the trip. Finished the day doing a very burly 7a called Cap Horn.
Wed - last day at Chateauvert. Warmed up at Sector Technogene for a change, doing a 6b+ called Canaquie, then a 7a called Caldoquie, both of which had mostly juggy climbing apart from very fingery cruxes, both very good. Went back over to the grande face to try a 7c but it when I got on it, very easy climbing led to a nasty chipped crimpy crux, so I gave it away. I then onsighted a 7b called Transmutation, probably the best route of the holiday, which was all fun jug/tufa pulling apart from one hard move which I called the Grit 6b move - a big slap to a sloper then some clever arete/toe hook work to pull round. Finished doing a 6b called Nuage, which was polished to hell.
Thurs - rest day, drove to Seynes.
Fri - Arrived at Seynes, warmed up the usual 6b+, then used the lower off the put the clips in the neighbouring 7b+ called Monocle, which was a really cool varied route. It went pretty sketchily, with lots of heel hooks and drop knees on little holds to make the tufa less rubbish, but I scraped up it for the second 7b+ O/S of the holiday. Next I did two really thin grey-slab routes, a 7a and a 7a+, both of which had nasty but very satisfying cruxes. Finished off doing another 7a+ called Dinosaure with a really polished boulder problem start and an easy tufa finish. Top day.
Sat - Rain! and lots of it. None of the family were very motivated but I managed to persuade Dad to at least check it out, walked up to find most stuff bone dry! I warmed up on the classic 6c+ of the crag called Le Tube Neurale, which was two mega tufas combined to form a massive chimney, which was nails to get out of! Felt more like HVS 5b with bolts... Next up was another 7a+, which I onsighted after a bit of a tufa-grapple. Didn't know what to do next so I just jumped to the best looking route I could find, expecting it to be straightforward, but fell off at the third clip, only to realise it was a 7c+. I dogged on anyway and surprisingly got all the moves figured out first go, so decided to leave the clips in, which turned it into a two day project. The pressure was on though, because the next day was the last of the holiday, and I was already tired and running out of skin. The route broke down into three sections: the first was a steep tufa system, where a big stretch took you up to the tufa proper. The second section was the crux, which involved lots of techy moves which were easy to mess up leading up the tufa, culminating in a huge slap to a flat rest hold (the only good holds on the route) which were the start of the last section, which was much less steep, but very balancey and easy to slip off.
RP 1 - actually nearly did it this go, mostly by fluke, fell off slapping for the rest hold after the crux section, realised I needed to be less pumped for this bit.
RP 2 - rubbish, too tired so gave up at the end of the first section.
Sun - RP 3 - rubbish, totally forgot crux sequence! Fell of start of second section.
RP 4 - better, but no success, same as RP 1.
RP 5 - rubbish, too tired, demotivated, so I went away for half an hour, ate a bit, then got psyched for...
RP 6 - SENT, 7c+ WHOOP! The difference was shaking out more at the end of the first section so I had more in the tank for the crux slap. Once I'd done that, I did the last section easily but very nervously!
So that was a great way to finish an awesome holiday, despite the rain and Orgon being rubbish!
Final tally is:
5 x 7a onsight
5 x 7a+ onsight
1 x 7b onsight
2 x 7b+ onsight
1 x 7c+ redpoint
Just realised what a stupidly long post that was, sorry but I'm really psyched!
Good to read a post-holiday-mega-psyched lengthy report. Really strong performance, 8a a formality for you youth, just get on some, then some 8a+s, then 8b's until you find something that takes you longer than 6 attempts!
In reply to biscuit:
Its fairly close to the wye valley, where Andy and I went on saturday. My limited experience (4 visits over the years) tells me there are some really good routes there but you have to be comfortable on limestone trad with some loose rock and lots of old pegs.
It also cant be more than an hour from avon.
Fantastic... really suited my style too (slightly slabby, good holds but required a bit of thinking about, loads of pro!).
I haven't been down that way, no - my friend I was climbing with yesterday recommended it too so will get the guidebook out and have a nosey. Need to find myself some well-protected but somewhat techy E1s and possibly an E2 to look at.
In reply to mrchewy:
My technique could certainly be improved but I know what's holding me back more is my head (mainly) and stamina (and strength to a certain extent). I think you're probably much stronger than me, but you're also fighting injuries...
Get down the wall and take some falls. It's really not that scary ;-)
> (In reply to Eagle River)
> Never tried Free and Easy but Jacob recommended it as a nice climb. I don't think I'll get around to it for a while though - I feel guilty enough asking partners to trek to the upper tier at all, without adding hanging belays to the inconvenience! Think I'll stick with Herbie for now (skin permitting) - and maybe give Serious Young Toads another go - I was pretty unwell on Sunday so it might feel easier another day.
Free and easy is great, good moves on excellent rock in a (obviously!) brilliant position. Possibly my favourite 7c at malham and also possibly the easiest of the 4 classics. My order is f&e, tremelo, syt, new dawn. I did it with belayer at the l'obsession belay so no hanging belay required - rope slack adds a bit of fun to falling off the crux but the fallout zone is very clean!
I did mean to say actually biscuit, if you do end up down here looking for places to live or whatever then do look us up, spare bed if needed and what have you.
Jake - nice one, good effort! I think I know the 7a you tried on the first day, over on the left of the steep stuff, with a hard crux at the top? That was one of the many which spanked me when I went there!
In reply to AJM: Yeah that's the one, it required a weird sequence at the top if I remember rightly. I think the style of climbing there just takes a bit of getting used to, it seemed to me that a relaxed, straight-arm, high feet body position worked best, so you could reach the furthest pockets, so have a better choice of the good ones, without getting majorly pumped. I'd expected it to be a good onsighting crag with all it's long sustained lines, but really the amount of different sequence options available, even little things like intermediates, make it much better suited to redpointing. I remember many a move where I put loads of energy into a 'controlled slap' as I like to call it, to a pocket which turned out to be a shockingly bad sloper, and then you have to do it all again to the next one!
In reply to Eagle River: Cheers mate, I think I'm heading up to Malham shortly to try New Age Traveller, it looks like a good project, or maybe a quick look at Raindogs if it's dry, though it sounds like it's very often busy! It did encourage me that perhaps 8a won't be such a long term projects after all though, as I'd been expecting 7c+ to need a month's work. 8b's are a long way off!
In reply to Ali: Thanks Ali! Though it was 6 attempts over two days so I had a bit of a break, though I recovered less well over night than I'd hoped!
I saw your posts above about weight, and I'd just like to add in that I don't think you should ever stop yourself eating when you feel like you need it. Obviously there are things to do like choosing healthier alternatives if you're eating a lot of crap but it doesn't sound like you are - there's nothing wrong with a bit of a treat for working hard! But I'd definitely avoid anything like a diet, I think it would have a negative affect on your climbing through lack of fuel.
In reply to grubes:
2-weeks worth of update as i've been away to Catalunya
LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham
MTG (Spring 2013) - Melanchollie at LPT & be fit for Terredets at Easter. Found video of La Marroncita at Oliana. Think this will be one of my Easter targets.
Update: Didn't get to Oliana. Went to Santa Linya instead
New STG (end Mar 2013)
- Re-hab ankle injuries & assess whether surgery is the answer or not.
- Continue finger boarding
- Lots of elbow eccentrics & sports massage - Zottman curls proving good combination exercise
- Get pumped 3 times a week - now aiming for Spanish route fitness
- Get back below 75kg (76.8kg and 6.8% after a weeks skiing - nae bad!)
- More core
- More an-cap
- More small holds; get reacquainted with Melanchollie
Update: Weaker, heavier and full of lurgy. I really did f-all training in March due to illness and skiing holiday.
G'friend wise - think we're in the hinterland where we both miss aspects of the relationship, but neither of us are sure we want to give it another go. (Well, that's my perspective, i think she might be keener than that!)
M - Rest. Beasted from skiing
T - Rest.
W - Hangar - some light bouuldering and aero-cap
T - Rest
F - Travel, then Santa Linya. Dogged nasty 7a/+ as warm-up, then 7b+ OS, then 8a/+ dogged.
S - Camarasa; stuff by road, then did Shere Kahn 2nd go. Should've on-sighted but came up an inch short on the reach from pocket to hueco.
S - Bruixes wall. Dogged Flix Flax as warm-up; very techy. Tried to flash 8a John was on. Grabbed draw halfway thru crux unwilling to take the ride. Sun came out, so went and did Smoking, 7-pitch 6b. Got very cold, not helped by urgy giving me palpitations!
M - Rest; super thick hot chocolate you could stand a spoon up in!
T - Back to Santa Linya. 3 RPs at Pegue Nocturna. Should have got it on the 1st go but forgot about a foothold. Then went to Futbolin crag an tried a 7c+ as a a compensation tick. Got very close. Just needed to be a tiny bit fresher
W - Collegats. Half resting. a few 6b/cs and a siesta
T - Smashed in Pegue Noturna 1st go, but still a big fight. Did all the moves on El Koala and watched a Belgian wad flash it. Tried to flash trio tenura but got shut down.
F - More rest. Barely left the house. Ate lots, drank lots. Tea in; wee out all day.
S - Hoped for triumphant return to Santa Linya but failed to tick a thing between us. Ran away with tails firmly between our legs. This crag chews you up and spits you out, especially if you're still harbouring lurgy!
S - Despite yesterdays beating, felt much better. Bruixes wall; RP of 8a i previously tried to flash. Had bizarre incident with rope tying itself to hig hdraw so had one extra dogging go. Finished off with 7b+ OS where i was able to shake out most of the way up and felt super in control. Felt like fitness had suddenly arrived on the day i was going home.
Now looking at booking flights back to Spain for May bank holiday to tidy up Santa Linya ticks.
Right now sat in a German hotel after having only been home for 16hours. I'll update new short and medium term goals next week after reflecting a while on what i want out of the spring. I think they'll have to be a decision about prioritising either an-cap or aero-power...
In reply to grubes: Anyone got any tips on how best to train/improve sloper strength? I have little weak wrists which tend to pull apart when I try hanging on slopers, so just doing more slopey problems is not necessarily the answer! Have been trying to do a bit of fingerboard training in the hope that may help strength wrists and light curls, but any more specific tips would be appreciated....
And on a totally unrelated note, is it really bad to want to bake chocolate cake??? Just seem the most yummy looking recipe....
In reply to grubes: I can hang on the easiest slopers on the beastmaker for 4-7 secs without feet (depending which rep I'm on). I use technique when I can to try and get around not being able to properly use slopers (i.e. adjusting body position)which helps me get up some problems but itsn't really addressing the issue of not being able to hang the holds! The issue is that if I try and hang/pull on certain holds I have to drop off (sometimes immediately after getting a hold) because I can feel it getting my wrists - I can't even try to pull on them!
In reply to Ali: I do occassionally tape my wrists when they're feeling weak (usually only if I'm working a project) but tend to avoid this as I think it may not help strength wrists, more just get them used to having the tape...but perhaps taping might help to try and be able to hold some of the holds?
> And on a totally unrelated note, is it really bad to want to bake chocolate cake??? Just seem the most yummy looking recipe....
Do it! I made both apple crumble cake and gooey chocolate brownie last night... yum. Treats are good, just make sure you're working them off (ie. running/biking/other aerobic activity, really not convinced climbing has quite the same effect on chocolate cake consumption!). 5 runs = bake a cake?
I didn't do anything specific but it seemed to stop about the time i started fingerboarding. Not on slopers specifically but i think the whole time spent dangling just by my hands with no feet on made them strengthen up.
Anecdotal evidence at its best.
On the plus side nothing ever actually happened to my wrist despite it feeling like it would dislocate.
> (In reply to biscuit)
> There's a blow up bed in our spare room with your name on it if you end up back in the UK and want some yorkshire limestone action.
> Although, by the sounds of it, AJM's van might be the more luxurious option.....
I will go where weather is best at the time and am staying at my Mum's in Bury so i should be fine. Andy's van is looking good though.
In reply to biscuit: Yup, usually like its pulling apart, but sometimes just painful. Quite a few years ago I ignored the feeling and pulled anyway and ended up getting shooting pains down my wrists, even at night when I wasn't using them. And it hurt lifting glasses of water and opening doors... needless to say I want to avoid that happening again!
In reply to Luke Owens: Cheers, I'm glad someones enjoying them, though I got just a bit carried away!
Ally - sounds like a very strong trip, despite feeling unwell to say the least, well done on the quick 8a ticks! Santa Linya just looks to me like a hard, hard crag, I'm impressed you got anything done there at all!
In reply to grubes: So yesterday I was super psyched and determined to get rid of my belly, today I gave into temptation and made chocolate cake... What's the old saying, I can resist everything except temptation?!
In reply to Ali: Yes! Really don't beat yourself up about a few treats
On the wrist front, when I climbed at the wall a lot more a few years ago I felt slopers were my main weakness too. Fingerboarding seemed to fix that and massively improve my wrist strength also - by doing hangs with feet on you decrease the strain but keep improving the strength. I use an old inner tube clipped to a short sling under the board - the stretchiness means you can choose just how much weight to transfer to it, or not.
Nice blog and very true... I like your 'mood-hoover' term!
In reply to maria85: Cheers Sounds like I'm on the right track with the fingerboard then will also try and tag on a bit of work on using slopers with feet (as per grubes's suggestion) to fingerboard sessions and hope that does the trick!
How did it get to Wednesday already! Next week's goal is to post before Wednesday!
Monday - Ticked the 6b+ I came off yesterday. Got on an overhanging 6c+ and felt like it was really possible, I worked it all and got all the moves and clips first time round. Second go I came off the crux so I refined those moves a bit and went back for one last go and boom! Everything just came together, no hesistation, no forgetting the moves, I felt like I climbed it as well as I could have, I love it when that happens! Really pleased, only my second 6c+ and on an angle that doesn't really suit me very well.
Tuesday - light conditioning and fingerboard.
Wednesday - double dips, each route twice in a row. 5+,6a,6a+,6b+,6b+,6c,6c,7a,6c+. I came off the last 3 routes a fair amount but since they were all routes I'd only successfully redpointed in the previous week I didn't really mind.
Thursday - conditioning session and 26 pullups in 5 minutes, 2 more than last week but I think further improvements will come slowly now.
Friday - Sunday - rest
Right, I was away Weds-Weds so I'm just going to post all the way through to yesterday this week.
T- Indoors at BBC. Climbed everything except 2 problems in room 1. Felt good. Got shut down on one problem but then managed to send it in the end.
W- Travelled to Spain. Oh man I wish I was still there.
T- First day. Went to Wild Side. Warmed up on a 6c+. Then flashed a 7a+/7b with Dan/Robbie's beta. Then should have flashed a 7b+ but ended up sending it RP2. (Awesome watching Dan flash this)
F- Second day. Went to Forada. Literally one of the best crags I've been to. The wall, the angle, the holds, the colour, the height, the routes, the variety - wow. O/Sed a couple of top 50 7a's (starman/spiderman) and then fluffed an O/S of a soft 7b (muscleman) - got it 1st RP.
S- Went to Pinos. Not the best of crags - but the view of Calpe was unreal. Possibly one of the best places I've just wanted to sit and look away from the rock. Warmed up on a 6b/c? Then O/S a very soft 7b Paprika(probs 7a?). Then blew the flash (putting draws in) attempt of a 7c Jog Jog (used to get 8a!). Balls! Got it RP2. Short and powerful with athletic moves through a roof. Wicked.
S- Had every intention of getting on mediterranean 8a. However as the day wore on the number of ropes under the route and the amount of time people were spending on it increased. Took it as a rest day and belayed Dan. Who snatched defeat from the jaws of victory on a 7b+. Great effort on that.
M- Back to Forada. What. a. crag. Me and Dan H were on a mission to either flash or first RP routes. So one would attempt O/S and put draws in and feed beta back to the other. I went first on Elios 7a+. Blew the O/S - Dan flashed then I got it first RP. Dan went first on Batman 7b+, blew the O/S gave me all the beta. I somehow managed to flash it and Dan got it first RP. Great route - steep and powerful. I went first on Thor 7b+ almost O/S but fell off on the last hard move to a good hold. Dan flashed it - Wicked effort!! I was started to feel a bit tired. Fell off 1st RP but managed it 2nd RP. Another classic route. That was me done for the day.
T- Gandia. Too hot. Wrong crag choice. Great routes but it was ruined by swollen hands and feet. Fell off on the O/S of a 7a+. Managed it 2nd RP. Then the classic 7a L'os spat me off in the heat. Eventually managed it 1st RP although it was much more of a fight than it ought to have been. Then it literally destroyed what was left of Dan's arms, so I ran up it again to get the draws out. I then fell off a number of 6b's.... I redpointed one of them. I don't like to talk about this.....
W- LAST DAY. Debated whether to get an early flight. Sit on the beach. Or maybe climb. We chose to climb. A complete random crag with virtually no stars. There was a one star 10m (4bolt) 7b+ slab. We decided that were we going to have ground up attempts to see who could get to the top. Dan went for the O/S. Did a great job but fell off at the 3rd. I went next. I fell off at the same place as Dan. As did Bob. Dan had another go but didn't get any further. Then I somehow managed it 2nd go. Ran the last bolt out and got to the top. Of a 7b+ slab!!! haha. Crazy. Climbed my first 7A+ slab in font, and my first 7b+ in CB. I need to do more slabs! Then last route of the trip, got on this uber classic looking 7c, which had 3 bolts and climbed above a bush with chipped pockets and no stars. Lot's of attempts. Started getting really angry with the route. Then with a change of boots and a draw extension I managed to grab the chains on my final RP attempt (I did indeed grab the belay). Slightly sketchy claim - but that was enough for me. In my defence there was a good hold with distance of the chain, I just wanted it all to be over.... ;-)
So trip routes:
3 x 7a (2 O/S)
2 x 7a+
3 x 7b (1 O/S , 1 flash)
4 x 7b+ (1 flash)
2 x 7c
If anyone read any of that you must have been really bored. ;-) But I am really really psyched. Watching Robbie Phillips piss up hard classics at Wild Side has made me want to get better. Those routes look amazing. I want to climb the class 8's. That's the new goal.
At the top of the list is Radicales libres F8a+ at Forada.
Sorry I've been away from FC for so long. First it was Portland, which we sacked off after one day and I booked flights for 2 weeks in spain.
My trip was slightly different to Jimmy's so here is my report:
It was great staying at The Orange House alone, because there are so many other climbers there with hire cars going to different places.
I ended up climbing with Robbie Phillips and Natalie Berry, which was really cool and did a lot for my personal climbing. Awesome to watch Nat onsight 7c and film Robbie on his 3rd 8c. (his blog is worth a read).
Many thanks to Liam, Tim, James and Ellie who let me climb with them at different times. Made some good friends.
I started the trip having worked one 7b at Chee Dale. It was amazing to flash a few 7b+s this trip and shift my whole mentality/expectation of what grade should feel easy or hard. Climbing with better people such as Rob and Nat is really helpful.
I found I could jam a lot where sport climbers generally don't, and this made a few routes much easier. Endurance training also made a huge difference. I was worried I might not be strong enough, but now I realise that I don't need to be any stronger to climb harder routes up to about 8a (except maybe in the UK!) I just need even more endurance and technique.
Here's a quick ticklist from memory:
3 7a OS
3 7a+ flash
1 7a+ RP
1 7b flash
2 7b RP
3 7b+ flash
4 7b+ RP
1 7c RP
1 7b+/c OS, placing draws - this route was perfect for me. Steep moves on good pockets, followed by a jamming rest and a pumpy finish.
Many thanks to Jimmy for jumping on board and booking a hotel and hire car. Jimmy's quite good at being a boulderer and route climber. He did a few good ticks by skipping clips and generally moving fast over hard ground.
This is the best last minute decision I have ever made. I'll train again now (reassess my goals on Sunday) but already I can't wait to put Sport climbing confidence onto UK trad!
I wasn't feeling very imperious when I politely declined to lead Robbies warm up 7c and then pulled on the draws of Nat's warm up 7b. I'd tried the crux a few times and then told her I didn't want to waste their time! They didn't mind though, what a lovely pair to climb with.
In reply to Daniel Heath and Jimmy Kay: Great effort lads, sounds like a strong trip! The good bits of Costa Blanca are so very good aren't they? Shame about the rubbish bits... Wish we could've gone to Wild Side or Forada when we were there at half term.
I tried to O/S Muscleman too last year, and from the sounds of it fell off at excactly the same place! It's hard to read onsight then irritatingly easy on the redpoint when you know which hold is the good one... Awesome to see Dan going from 7b redpoint to 7c onsight through a winter's hard training! (I'm guessing that the 7b+/c grade is you being modest...)
I'm hoping to have learnt to drive by summer so let me know if you're getting out to do some hard trad, I'd be psyched to join you.