UKC

Well?
Can you grade em, or can they be devided into two simple categories?

1. The ones that you can do.
2. The ones that you can't do.

If you do believe that they can be graded in line with static moves, how? Would an all-out double dyno off slopers onto a crimp equate to a 6c crimpy rockover?

In reply to Kev Wynne:

You missed number 3

How much of a sports injury you expect to recieve.

Dynos can hurt. Just like smoking, dyno injuries creep up on you.

In reply to Kev Wynne:
Another important point. A lock off for someone of 6ft could be a dyno for someone of 5ft 6. So some boulder problems will either include a dyno or not depending on your height.
As for dyno's I don't see why a grade can't be attached to them. Being tall is not always an advantage, some of the best people at dyno's are short.
Imagine, for example the problem 'Brad Pit' if it didn't have the sidepulls. This would be a dyno and one where being tall would not help a great deal. It has actually been suggested as font 8a like this as opposed to it's actual grade of 7c using everything.

In reply to Kev Wynne:

Tech grades are totally inconsistent anyway, it's impossible to give a grade to a single move that applies to everyone. Since a dyno is a single move it's no more or less suited to a technical grade than any other single move.

In reply to Vdiff Dave:
>Since a dyno is a single move it's no more or less suited >to a technical grade than any other single move

If the dyno's well protected, it would probably be better to give it a font grade - "tech 6b Dyno" could mean just about anything.

In reply to Kev Wynne: how could u grade a dyno it is not a refined and graceful move strength and luck play too much of a part how could u build up to it surly a dyno is a give it a go move
a dyno for me 6 foot 3" tall could be totally impossible for some people
like wise a dyno for someone 5 foot tall a mere step for myself see sense its a personal thing no offence ment

In reply to Billy De Kid:
brad pit was done by jason myers years ago by dynoing and graded font 8b. but even he used the side pull as an intermediate

In reply to jono:


Dynos are the most graceful and refined moves. If you're not graceful when performing dynos you aren't very good at them.
Strength also plays a very small part in the majority of dynos where timing and fluidity are the key.

In reply to Kev Wynne:
I think there should be 2 main factors,

distance between the holds
quality of holds

a grade should be given for say the most average height climber. 5ft 10????? and then if u are shorter or taller you know it is either going to be harder or easier

In reply to jono:

I've always found that height plays a big part in all of climbing, both positive and negative, so your argument about not grading dyno's because of it seems to point to the same argument about static climbing. There are plenty of things I can't reach that my climbing partners can, and I can tuck up into plenty of things they can't, so how do you have consistency? The normal grades don't take this into account, so why should a dyno grading?

In reply to Del: has to be height dependant, but not on a consistent basis
eg. not always easier for the tall

but having said that saw a huge swedish guy (6'8") do Hale Bopp (Font 8a) last year, and he admitted to climbing only 5/5+ on average!

In reply to Kev Wynne: You grade a dyno as you would any other problem. People then repeat the problem and a consensus is reached. Some people will find it easier-some will find it harder(regardless of height).
If you tried as hard to get up a font 7b dyno as you did a font 7b wall/slab/roof, then you should grade the dyno 7b.

In reply to Kev Wynne:

Anybody ever tried Look Before You Leap, Stanage Plantation, E1 6B, and held the ridiculous dyno.

We managed to knacker a rope while trying to >shhhhhhhhhhhh< top-rope it and couldn’t hold it.

In reply to TopOut:
where is that? must be a boulder problem at that grade? does it have a boulder grade?

In reply to ian h:

Left of the wall end slab area just before that area of the crag peters out. No it is a route not a boulder problem and he has already given you a perfectly adequate grade (although the old book had it as E1 6a-6c depending on height which may well be more accurate suffice to say I want nothing to do with it).

In reply to Fiend: how high off the floor is the dyno?